This Atala is dead, right?
#27
is just a real cool dude
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: The Thumb, MI
Posts: 3,173
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 27 Times
in
11 Posts
Keep her rolling and just keep an eye on the stays and should be fine. I wouldn't romp on it too hard but just casual riding it should live another life.
#28
Full Member
What kind of life do you expect to get out of that rattle can gold finish? I've always been wary of spray paint on bikes.
#30
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
with an intent to make the cycling experience en toto as much of an unpleasant experience for as many people as you can
If not, then KNOW THEY ARE OUT THERE!
#31
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,691
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Mentioned: 510 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7287 Post(s)
Liked 2,362 Times
in
1,381 Posts
I just discovered this thread.
I gave that bike to sailorbenjamin a few months ago. He and I disassembled it.
It had been sitting in my basement for a year or three. A neighbor emailed me and told me to pick it up, as he was moving out of town. The Atala and also a French mixte from the 50's were outside where they had been for years, collecting rust.
I had promised it to jonwvara, but we never figured out a way to get it to him for free. Neither of us thought it was worth shipping, and Jon said I can do what I like with it if I never got it to him, so this is where it is now.
I could ask my former neighbor for the previous part of the story.
I had this model bike. In fact, it was my first ten speed and got me into cycling in a big way. I got mine new in 1975, and this appears to be from the same period. Mine was white, in the 23" size. It was taken from me by force, at knife-point, a year or two later. I grew up in NYC in the bad old days.
I gave that bike to sailorbenjamin a few months ago. He and I disassembled it.
It had been sitting in my basement for a year or three. A neighbor emailed me and told me to pick it up, as he was moving out of town. The Atala and also a French mixte from the 50's were outside where they had been for years, collecting rust.
I had promised it to jonwvara, but we never figured out a way to get it to him for free. Neither of us thought it was worth shipping, and Jon said I can do what I like with it if I never got it to him, so this is where it is now.
I could ask my former neighbor for the previous part of the story.
I had this model bike. In fact, it was my first ten speed and got me into cycling in a big way. I got mine new in 1975, and this appears to be from the same period. Mine was white, in the 23" size. It was taken from me by force, at knife-point, a year or two later. I grew up in NYC in the bad old days.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,085
Bikes: Frejus/Bertin/Cannondale
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I had this model bike. In fact, it was my first ten speed and got me into cycling in a big way. I got mine new in 1975, and this appears to be from the same period. Mine was white, in the 23" size. It was taken from me by force, at knife-point, a year or two later. I grew up in NYC in the bad old days.
#33
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,691
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Mentioned: 510 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7287 Post(s)
Liked 2,362 Times
in
1,381 Posts
Yeah, pretty much. And I had always wanted something nicer. I ended up replacing it with a Raleigh Gran Sport which was quite a lot nicer. Maybe the Atala was good for the money, but as a teenager stepping up from it to the Raleigh, it made the Atala look like a sour memory. I haven't ridden one since, and I understand they ride about as nicely as a UO-8, which is good for a gas pipe bike.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#34
Full Member
maybe you're just one of those big oil corporate conglomerate chat board monitors- out to scuttle as much cycling equipment as you can destroy- or design extremely poorly- or price ridiculously high,
with an intent to make the cycling experience en toto as much of an unpleasant experience for as many people as you can
if not, then know they are out there!
with an intent to make the cycling experience en toto as much of an unpleasant experience for as many people as you can
if not, then know they are out there!
#35
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
This is evidence of another suspect overpricing- Oil Company Operatives?
And there I was, racing for Cool Gear/ Exxon.....
https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/bik/3698210106.html
I think the Atala looks worse in the photos- you can't see the neat creases for the tire clearance in the photos, and I suspect the slits in the tubes have actually been there a long time- more like a manufacturing defect than rusted otherwise- very little rust on the frame in fact. I'm exhausted right now and been sick- but I'll carefully check the clearance with 1 3/8 tires even, and try to eventually fill in the crease as much as possible with metal of some sort-
I'll turn it over someday- and probably not for more than the expense it costs me and some for the parts I put on it-
There's no real money in this vintage resell game- at least at a small level- just messing around, and trying to keep it all alive.
And there I was, racing for Cool Gear/ Exxon.....
https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/bik/3698210106.html
I think the Atala looks worse in the photos- you can't see the neat creases for the tire clearance in the photos, and I suspect the slits in the tubes have actually been there a long time- more like a manufacturing defect than rusted otherwise- very little rust on the frame in fact. I'm exhausted right now and been sick- but I'll carefully check the clearance with 1 3/8 tires even, and try to eventually fill in the crease as much as possible with metal of some sort-
I'll turn it over someday- and probably not for more than the expense it costs me and some for the parts I put on it-
There's no real money in this vintage resell game- at least at a small level- just messing around, and trying to keep it all alive.
#36
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Rhode Island (an obscure suburb of Connecticut)
Posts: 5,703
Bikes: one of each
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
12 Posts
Some of those metalic paints are pretty soft and rub off easily. Clearcoat would help that.
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Berkeley, CA
Posts: 7,445
Bikes: '72 Cilo Pacer, '72 Gitane Gran Tourisme, '72 Peugeot PX10, '73 Speedwell Ti, '74 Peugeot UE-8, '75 Peugeot PR-10L, '80 Colnago Super, '85 De Rosa Pro, '86 Look Equipe 753, '86 Look KG86, '89 Parkpre Team, '90 Parkpre Team MTB, '90 Merlin
Mentioned: 87 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 826 Post(s)
Liked 2,048 Times
in
545 Posts
I am impressed with your speed. I was tempted to leave it at that, but I must ask: Is that spray paint on the rim? If so, that's a line I refuse to cross. And what's the deal with the front sidewall? It looks like it's been colored in with a red marker. Do your roommates mind paint on the carpet?
__________________
-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Yukon, Canada
Posts: 8,775
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 113 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 16 Times
in
14 Posts
wow.. all that work on a bike of compromised integrity. I sure as well would not have done that. Sorry I just think this doesn't make sense. The correct fix would have been to run a tig bead down the crack and seal it up. Would have been a 10 minute job and had full integrity.
__________________
1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear
1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear
#39
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
I am impressed with your speed. I was tempted to leave it at that, but I must ask: Is that spray paint on the rim? If so, that's a line I refuse to cross. And what's the deal with the front sidewall? It looks like it's been colored in with a red marker. Do your roommates mind paint on the carpet?
Yes- the rim is painted blue anno- it used to be here, on this blue bike-
I replaced that wheel when it all went silver: and I just touched it up a while back- so theres still overspray on the spokes- I'll paint them silver chrome again probably- it's just an old 27 alloy wheel-
The tire is half way painted- to match another commercial colored tire- it needs another coat- but sometimes I'll paint old tires- especially if they are starting to dry out- it really protects them- and it's only latex- makes the tire weigh a bit more, but they're only used tires on older bikes generally-
they really usually look pretty good to- this one will get another coat soon.
But I often use paint on old spokes especially- if they won't shine and are corroded- paint works great- they sell them NEW that way these days-
Don't very often use it on rims- but just did again- last week on that 3 speed- the 26 x 1 3/8 steel chrome rims were corroded just enough- actually the back one more- the chrome just wasn't going to look very good again- I couldn't get all the corrosion marks off it-
so out came the chrome silver paint- both rim and spokes- I keep it off the sides as much as possible, cause it just rubs off on the brakes- but it generally stays on the top surface real well. If it flakes or scatches off, it's just the original chrome underneath, so it doesn't show that much.
This is the Krylon Metallic Chrome silver- from Wal-Mart- it's not as chromy as Red Devil from Big Lots- but it makes the steel rims look almost alloy- and REALLY cleans up the spokes. It also makes a better base for any anno paint on top of it, because it's not as smooth when it dries- and anno paint generally needs to be over unmarred chrome to look good, or over silver paint, because it's translucent.
No roomies to care about my painting- but I've gotten pretty good finally about not making many messes.
And I intend to repair the frame- I'll just paint over that part when I do- and , yes, almost always- a clearcoat finally.
Last edited by harpon; 03-24-13 at 04:05 PM.
#40
MFA
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Denver
Posts: 1,186
Bikes: 1973 Italvega Nouvo Record; 1965 Hercules; 1982-83 Schwinn Mystery MTB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You do know the differences between chrome, anodizing, paint and spray paint, right? I appreciate the initiative, but I hope you keep your painting talents focused on the lower end bikes out there.
#43
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Yes, but can you see that your views are a little.... limiting?
Yes- this is a "Vintage" forum, and yes, there are people on here with an intent to restore to "pristine"-
But the whole disdain for "spray paint" thing I see quite a bit here is a bit snobbish and impractical-
It's simply not cost-effective to worry about a powder coat all the time when a lot of bikes acquired in pieces are ALREADY a lot of cost just to make ridable- nothing wrong with a good covering of spray paint and/ or clearcoat!
In fact a WHOLE LOTTA equipment out there now- would still be more functional today- even in a "vintage' sense-
if someone had taken the time and spent a few dollars to give it a shot of paint 20 or 30 years ago.
Yes- I understand the differences between these things. But take chrome for instance. Chrome is chrome- it's generally viable, or not- beyond that point- once it's pitted to a certain degree, it can't be bought back. If it's been rusty and rubbed off, the rust more easily returns. Rechroming is especially costly and less practical than a store-bought powder coat.
These chrome and anno metallic paints are all fairly new things- they work better in some places than others- because stuff will scrape off of chrome fairly easily. But like I said- if it's silver chrome paint on chrome, it barely shows- and it keeps the rust away.
No anno paint is not like old school BMX vintage annodizing- or an anno rim- but it has its use and provides protection-
the beauty of spray paint is that if you can keep some back- you can just keep putting some on if it scratches- with a powder coat- you gotta play that game of touch up a bit more-
I like to add color to something- but the main function of the non-standard things I paint on a bike is usually to protect that part,
all this paint goes really well especially on corroded spokes- not only looks great, but will give the spokes years more of servive.
I wish I'd taken some better "before" pictures of this wheelset- you'd see the difference then.
The flat bar I've stuck on this Atala for now was chromed and VERY rusty a week ago- now it looks... FABULOUS!
I got those blue steel bars on the motorized bike above about 4 years back and very cheap- well-under $10 delivered- blue anno paint on steel- never pretending much to be annodized alloy-flat ends on the crosspiece so it will fit a cruiser stem and 1 inch gnarl
but now I see that same BMX bar in both red and blue usually selling for about $40 on ebay-
I DO HAVE red anno alloy bars on it now- I got reasonably a couple years back on Amazon- then they disappeared- and generally overpriced by the oli controlled corporate conglomerate that suppresses us.
yes- I know the dif- I've been around bikes over 50 years, but I guess some people may not-
Yes- this is a "Vintage" forum, and yes, there are people on here with an intent to restore to "pristine"-
But the whole disdain for "spray paint" thing I see quite a bit here is a bit snobbish and impractical-
It's simply not cost-effective to worry about a powder coat all the time when a lot of bikes acquired in pieces are ALREADY a lot of cost just to make ridable- nothing wrong with a good covering of spray paint and/ or clearcoat!
In fact a WHOLE LOTTA equipment out there now- would still be more functional today- even in a "vintage' sense-
if someone had taken the time and spent a few dollars to give it a shot of paint 20 or 30 years ago.
Yes- I understand the differences between these things. But take chrome for instance. Chrome is chrome- it's generally viable, or not- beyond that point- once it's pitted to a certain degree, it can't be bought back. If it's been rusty and rubbed off, the rust more easily returns. Rechroming is especially costly and less practical than a store-bought powder coat.
These chrome and anno metallic paints are all fairly new things- they work better in some places than others- because stuff will scrape off of chrome fairly easily. But like I said- if it's silver chrome paint on chrome, it barely shows- and it keeps the rust away.
No anno paint is not like old school BMX vintage annodizing- or an anno rim- but it has its use and provides protection-
the beauty of spray paint is that if you can keep some back- you can just keep putting some on if it scratches- with a powder coat- you gotta play that game of touch up a bit more-
I like to add color to something- but the main function of the non-standard things I paint on a bike is usually to protect that part,
all this paint goes really well especially on corroded spokes- not only looks great, but will give the spokes years more of servive.
I wish I'd taken some better "before" pictures of this wheelset- you'd see the difference then.
The flat bar I've stuck on this Atala for now was chromed and VERY rusty a week ago- now it looks... FABULOUS!
I got those blue steel bars on the motorized bike above about 4 years back and very cheap- well-under $10 delivered- blue anno paint on steel- never pretending much to be annodized alloy-flat ends on the crosspiece so it will fit a cruiser stem and 1 inch gnarl
but now I see that same BMX bar in both red and blue usually selling for about $40 on ebay-
I DO HAVE red anno alloy bars on it now- I got reasonably a couple years back on Amazon- then they disappeared- and generally overpriced by the oli controlled corporate conglomerate that suppresses us.
yes- I know the dif- I've been around bikes over 50 years, but I guess some people may not-
Last edited by harpon; 03-24-13 at 04:25 PM.
#44
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Oh- and then the DECALS- I see people always whining about decals- but I never hear about them touching them up somehow much-
An original decal set for most vintage framesets is usually $45 on ebay- JUST WAY TOOOO MUCH- OIl executive conglomerate! They're just DECALS!!
So then YES- I've taken some artist brushes and literally painted over most of the decals- and I'll clearcoat that when I'm done.
I've made a concession with the World Champoionship Rainbow stripes-
I can get TWO LOUSY STRIPES- for $13 on ebay- but where do you draw the line? With this bike- only the top seat tube stripe was really messed up- so I painted that in as best as I could- just to not spend $13 more on it.
Incidentally I was thinking- the stripes may at times be an aid in determining a bikes age- they generally didn't put the stripes on them back in the day, unless the company had won a world championship- though I think that changed through the years
take the Schwinn Le Tour,,, please....
just kidding.
This Atala is dead, right? - It's definitely not quite dead until D-Day rides it DOWN the stairs- and that was known to happen back in the "wild man" days.
An original decal set for most vintage framesets is usually $45 on ebay- JUST WAY TOOOO MUCH- OIl executive conglomerate! They're just DECALS!!
So then YES- I've taken some artist brushes and literally painted over most of the decals- and I'll clearcoat that when I'm done.
I've made a concession with the World Champoionship Rainbow stripes-
I can get TWO LOUSY STRIPES- for $13 on ebay- but where do you draw the line? With this bike- only the top seat tube stripe was really messed up- so I painted that in as best as I could- just to not spend $13 more on it.
Incidentally I was thinking- the stripes may at times be an aid in determining a bikes age- they generally didn't put the stripes on them back in the day, unless the company had won a world championship- though I think that changed through the years
take the Schwinn Le Tour,,, please....
just kidding.
This Atala is dead, right? - It's definitely not quite dead until D-Day rides it DOWN the stairs- and that was known to happen back in the "wild man" days.
Last edited by harpon; 03-24-13 at 04:26 PM.
#45
MFA
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Denver
Posts: 1,186
Bikes: 1973 Italvega Nouvo Record; 1965 Hercules; 1982-83 Schwinn Mystery MTB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
We will have to agree to disagree on several points. I like to see original finish and honest wear. Silver spray paint doesn't "fool" into thinking its chrome. From a preservation standpoint, freshening up decals by repainting sounds scary to me.
#46
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
"Honest wear" then in a good many instances just translates to "RUST". I'm all for clearcoating then of things old- but I see no glory in them looking old otherwise. They'll just keep better with something over them, as opposed to nothing.
the "fooling" is of your own origin, and may say more of your own inner spirit than mine.
I'm just talking about covering damaged chrome, or corroded rusted or non-shiny spokes with something that looks better and protects the bike and parts.
In fact if you read carefully- I chose the less "chromy" of the two brands I have to do the wheelset- though part of the reason is that it's more available locally at wal-Mart.
I still the gold metal paint makes an exceptional bike coating- especially of anything with sleek lines- with a good claercoat- it should be as durable as any other home spray painting- Ben sent me this frame for $20- and I've got two other bikes in the rebuilding works (Don't NORMALLY do this all that much- just happened this way right now. So I don't want to spend a great deal- especially $45 for decals, if even available-
That issue you'd be better off talking up with the cycling industry in general
I don't set prices. The oil companies and motor vehicle interests do. Ha!
the "fooling" is of your own origin, and may say more of your own inner spirit than mine.
I'm just talking about covering damaged chrome, or corroded rusted or non-shiny spokes with something that looks better and protects the bike and parts.
In fact if you read carefully- I chose the less "chromy" of the two brands I have to do the wheelset- though part of the reason is that it's more available locally at wal-Mart.
I still the gold metal paint makes an exceptional bike coating- especially of anything with sleek lines- with a good claercoat- it should be as durable as any other home spray painting- Ben sent me this frame for $20- and I've got two other bikes in the rebuilding works (Don't NORMALLY do this all that much- just happened this way right now. So I don't want to spend a great deal- especially $45 for decals, if even available-
That issue you'd be better off talking up with the cycling industry in general
I don't set prices. The oil companies and motor vehicle interests do. Ha!
#47
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Rhode Island (an obscure suburb of Connecticut)
Posts: 5,703
Bikes: one of each
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
12 Posts
Bah. It's not a Paramount. It wasn't a real cherry by any means. Paint it tie dye if you want. I was just glad to find it a home and to see it get ridden again.
#48
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
I just find it interesting- I guess I could spend my time on something better- like playing my guitars or keyboards- no money in that either- just don't spend as much on it either!
So anyway- tonight I sweated some solder into the seams- It worked better that I thought- but would have been better with a torch- because the solder wants to keep sticking to the iron- I thought it would melt down into the cracks easier- and probably would with a torch- and maybe some kind of brazing rods might be better.
I took some before and after pictures that didn't come out that well- maybe repost new ones tomorrow- but it's late and gotta go to bed-
Whatever doubts I had about the solder were eased when I took a file to it afterwards- MUCH HARDER than I expected- It took me maybe 10 or 15 minutes for each 2 inch split in the indentations of the chain stays- a torch would be much quicker because it wouldn't want to stick to that-
anyway, filed it pretty smooth, and put some aluminum paint on to fill slightly raised edges I couldn't easily get with the file-
another coat of that and then the final gold metal paint and then a clearcoat-
sorry about the crappy photos- can't reshoot tonight.
really came out nicer than I thought and not difficult- I doubt they'll ever be any structural issues with it-
as for the frame- no, it's no Paramount- but if you compare it with a Super Sport or even World Traveler, and for it's size, it's really pretty lightweight- not really that much "gaspipe"- and I'll eventually have some light stuff on it- including an alloy crankset and alloy wheels I guess
I recall the frames from back in the '70's- the top line Atalas weren't much different looking then- same distinctive similar decals on the two tubes.
I think it's got a lot of character
So anyway- tonight I sweated some solder into the seams- It worked better that I thought- but would have been better with a torch- because the solder wants to keep sticking to the iron- I thought it would melt down into the cracks easier- and probably would with a torch- and maybe some kind of brazing rods might be better.
I took some before and after pictures that didn't come out that well- maybe repost new ones tomorrow- but it's late and gotta go to bed-
Whatever doubts I had about the solder were eased when I took a file to it afterwards- MUCH HARDER than I expected- It took me maybe 10 or 15 minutes for each 2 inch split in the indentations of the chain stays- a torch would be much quicker because it wouldn't want to stick to that-
anyway, filed it pretty smooth, and put some aluminum paint on to fill slightly raised edges I couldn't easily get with the file-
another coat of that and then the final gold metal paint and then a clearcoat-
sorry about the crappy photos- can't reshoot tonight.
really came out nicer than I thought and not difficult- I doubt they'll ever be any structural issues with it-
as for the frame- no, it's no Paramount- but if you compare it with a Super Sport or even World Traveler, and for it's size, it's really pretty lightweight- not really that much "gaspipe"- and I'll eventually have some light stuff on it- including an alloy crankset and alloy wheels I guess
I recall the frames from back in the '70's- the top line Atalas weren't much different looking then- same distinctive similar decals on the two tubes.
I think it's got a lot of character
#49
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Just looked at the serial number and some quick research on the net- several sources seem to agree- the first two numbers on Atalas are the year of manufacture-
this one is # 75 D 1045
1975 I presume- I would have guessed two or three years older-
and with original simplex shifters- a small "Simplex" sticker still on the frame- a bit unusual for an Italian bike to be fitted with french stuff- wonder what the original brakes were- I have the front center pull hanger in my hand- probably the original:
fairly rusted and don't see markings- don't recognize it offhand- don't think it's Mafac though- has a QR cam adjuster
maybe I see some etching that may be revealed with some WD-40
besides the simplex derailleurs and shift lever, Ben sent me the headset, "pivo" style TTT vintage alloy stem,
and steel cottered crank- fairly rusty- don't think it'll go back on the bike- never liked cotters much and very heavy- Nice museum piece though-
I'll probably PAINT IT UP! Chrome paint, sell it for new.....
Probably set it up with this crank-
1975- Moody Blues split up and two members put out this album The Blue Jays. My Little 500 bike team was traumatized by only finishing second in our first year without Olympian and National Champion Wayne Stetina- in the 25 running of the Little 500- up to 60-something this year I guess.
this one is # 75 D 1045
1975 I presume- I would have guessed two or three years older-
and with original simplex shifters- a small "Simplex" sticker still on the frame- a bit unusual for an Italian bike to be fitted with french stuff- wonder what the original brakes were- I have the front center pull hanger in my hand- probably the original:
fairly rusted and don't see markings- don't recognize it offhand- don't think it's Mafac though- has a QR cam adjuster
maybe I see some etching that may be revealed with some WD-40
besides the simplex derailleurs and shift lever, Ben sent me the headset, "pivo" style TTT vintage alloy stem,
and steel cottered crank- fairly rusty- don't think it'll go back on the bike- never liked cotters much and very heavy- Nice museum piece though-
I'll probably PAINT IT UP! Chrome paint, sell it for new.....
Probably set it up with this crank-
1975- Moody Blues split up and two members put out this album The Blue Jays. My Little 500 bike team was traumatized by only finishing second in our first year without Olympian and National Champion Wayne Stetina- in the 25 running of the Little 500- up to 60-something this year I guess.
#50
aka Tom Reingold
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,691
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Mentioned: 510 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7287 Post(s)
Liked 2,362 Times
in
1,381 Posts
I have the original brakes if you want them. They are Universal center-pulls with the name Atala stamped on them instead of Universal. I kept them because I thought I would use them, but I won't.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.