Freewheel/Chainring Help for Lotus Cyclone
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Freewheel/Chainring Help for Lotus Cyclone
A few months ago I picked up a nice Lotus Cyclone off Craig's List. The bike is in pretty darn good shape with what I think are all the original Suntour components, and is a great ride! My only problem is I need gearing that is a little more hill friendly.
The current chainring setup is I believe a 144 bcd 52/42 with a 13-26 6-speed freewheel. I was thinking about changing out the freewheel for a NOS Suntour Winner 12-28 7-speed, but am not sure what to do about the chainring. It doesn't look like there are too many choices in that bcd size, so I am guessing I would need to change out the crank in order to get an inner ring small enough to work for me. I did see a 48/34 compact double crankset at Harris Cyclery that would get me to where I need to be. Does anyone know of any reason this wouldn't work for me? I am hoping to keep the existing bottom bracket and derailluers, and was hoping the crankset change would still work ok with the front derailluer. From what I have read, going to a 7-speed freewheel will not be a problem.
I would appreciate any suggestions or thoughts anyone might have!
The current chainring setup is I believe a 144 bcd 52/42 with a 13-26 6-speed freewheel. I was thinking about changing out the freewheel for a NOS Suntour Winner 12-28 7-speed, but am not sure what to do about the chainring. It doesn't look like there are too many choices in that bcd size, so I am guessing I would need to change out the crank in order to get an inner ring small enough to work for me. I did see a 48/34 compact double crankset at Harris Cyclery that would get me to where I need to be. Does anyone know of any reason this wouldn't work for me? I am hoping to keep the existing bottom bracket and derailluers, and was hoping the crankset change would still work ok with the front derailluer. From what I have read, going to a 7-speed freewheel will not be a problem.
I would appreciate any suggestions or thoughts anyone might have!
#2
Freewheel Medic
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: An Island on the Coast of GA!
Posts: 12,881
Bikes: Snazzy* Schwinns, Classy Cannondales & a Super Pro Aero Lotus (* Ed.)
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1452 Post(s)
Liked 2,186 Times
in
961 Posts
Probably won't have any problems. The chain will probably need to be shortened, or it might be a perfect time to replace it.
What kind of freewheel is it currently running. Might just need to change some cogs.
What kind of freewheel is it currently running. Might just need to change some cogs.
__________________
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
#3
feros ferio
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Posts: 21,793
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1391 Post(s)
Liked 1,322 Times
in
835 Posts
You may need to add a 2-mm washer to the drive side of the rear axle and redish the wheel by 1 mm to compensate. Some hub/freewheel/dropout combinations will suffer chain rub in a 6- to 7-speed conversion, whereas others will work fine. Eliminating the pie plate or spoke protector will help a little.
A 48-34 compact double is often a good solution in these cases. If you do not need to quite that low, consider a 130mm road double crankset, which will accommodate a 38T inner ring. Reducing the size of the outer ring helps address chain wrap demands, and you can probably get all the top end you need with a 48, or even a 46. (48/13 = 52/14 = 100 gear-inches, the traditional high gear for racing and touring bikes of the 1960s and 1970s.)
A 48-34 compact double is often a good solution in these cases. If you do not need to quite that low, consider a 130mm road double crankset, which will accommodate a 38T inner ring. Reducing the size of the outer ring helps address chain wrap demands, and you can probably get all the top end you need with a 48, or even a 46. (48/13 = 52/14 = 100 gear-inches, the traditional high gear for racing and touring bikes of the 1960s and 1970s.)
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks for the replies! Pastorbob, the freewheel is a 13-26 Suntour Winner 6-speed. I am thinking changing to a 7-speed with a little larger 28 tooth largest cog will help a little on hills, but also tighten up the spacing a little so I can maintain my cadence a little better. Here is a comparison of what I have now vs. what I am thinking about changing to.
John, I already took off the pie plate, and I am not all that interested in the top end speed anyway, but the gearing I am thinking about going to seems like it should work just as well as what I have now. More than enough for my riding skill! It's getting up the hills that is my most important issue! And thanks for bringing up the wheel dish issue. I hadn't thought about that.
Thanks!
John, I already took off the pie plate, and I am not all that interested in the top end speed anyway, but the gearing I am thinking about going to seems like it should work just as well as what I have now. More than enough for my riding skill! It's getting up the hills that is my most important issue! And thanks for bringing up the wheel dish issue. I hadn't thought about that.
Thanks!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
birdadam
Bicycle Mechanics
10
11-27-11 03:43 PM