^^ I'd say black tires, other colors just never look right to my eye. Besides, white tires don't stay all that white for long. Maybe black with a classic gumwall would match the overall look you're going for?

I agree that black tires would probably be best for this kind of bike.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=309729http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=309730 The Trek was a donor bike, but i sold the frame, the Raleigh was a salvation Army $25 pickup - with Shimano Front Freewheel. I had a 23t gear on the back, but changed to a 19 to get the tension right for the Trek... 46t up front. I rode the Raleigh last nite, the gear feels kinda tall, but I can manage the hills; however in high gear the thing can really haul, and the coaster alone is a little sketchy, it does not seem to have a lot of "feel" or modulation, almost like light stopping power with medium pressure on the pedals, than a little more... skid! It is a new hub, maybe it will break in. I also find it too easy to change gear, and it seems if I am in low gear and backpedal to apply the coaster (at a stop sign, say) when I start again the hub is in high gear, and I need to shift back to low. It is a new experience for me, so maybe I need to get used to it.

I'd use classic gumwall Paselas. That will compliment the brass bell and leather wraps.

They did make them, I have a Reissue Raleigh Chopper that came with a square tapered Heron single speed crank ( three in the rear), but the arms aren't classic looking on them.

Glenn
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This sloooooooooow progress is driving me nuts. As usual, I have more time than money... so the bits are coming in slowly. On Friday I got my elkhide bar wrap stitched on, then did a little more detail work with the gold paint. My Sturmey-Archer S2C hub should be arriving tomorrow, so next will be to track down some spokes and rims.

I did some calculations regarding chainline and spoke length, and was qute amazed by what I found. For those that don't know, the S2C hub is 116mm OLD. My frame is 126mm OLD. I've found that if I put a 3mm spacer on the drive side and 7mm of spacers on the NDS, the hub will have the needed 126mm OLD and the chainline will be perfect with the chainring. (Less than 1mm off) Not only that, but the rear wheel will have NO DISH! Same length spokes for both sides. Even more exciting, I have an old Normandy front hub that I was planning on using... and guess what? The spoke length for the front wheel will be the same as for the rear wheel. I have never had that kind of luck before.

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The Bike looks great! Just wanted to mention, Your hub measures 116 across, but comes with two washers that are 5mm thick, put them on the inside and you are at 126. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=310932http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=310933

The flat part goes in your dropout, even has cutouts for adjusters

Good Luck!

My Sturmey Archer S2C hub arrived yesterday! Yay!!! To those folks (like me) who have no experience with these hubs, I have just one thing to say... Holy Hell it's heavy!

Yeah, but you're not loading the bike down with much else, and the thing will work for the rest of your life without asking anything of you.

But yeah, that's one reason I don't ride IGH's except my old English 3-speed. Cost is another.

Here's a different spin on a 2 speed bike - two chainrings up front and a single-speed freewheel in the rear:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=311450

Its a 1977 Schwinn LeTour II. The rear dropouts are 120mm spacing, so it won't fit a tradional 126mm-130mm hubbed wheel. Since I didn't need all 12 gears, I just swapped in a set of 120mm SS wheels with a 16 tooth freewheel on the rear, use the RD as a tensioner, and shift between low and high wtih the FD. Works great for the few hills I have on my commute. Ain't fast in high gear, but for around-town riding its great.

That's very true. Up until yesterday, I read all of the threads saying that an IGH hub was heavier than a regular hub/freewheel/derailleur combo and thought: "No way... that can't be right." I'm a believer now.

But hey, all that weight over the rear will help with braking, right??? :rolleyes:

My 2-speed was set up with a Bendix overdrive kickback hub. It was heavier than the SA hub (which I didn't know about at the time) but the bike only weighed 17 lbs when all was said and done.

I got my Ti ride down to 20 lbs with the Alfine 11-speed. IGH-based bikes don't *have* to be heavy...

I was just (mostly) kidding. I don't expect that this will end up being a "tank" when it's finished. I should probably put her on the scale to see the progrss so far.

2-speeds are fun because you totally look like you are riding a single speed, but you have a gear to help you out, depending on how you set it up, something that can either help you go faster, or accelerate faster. I am confident that bike of yours will not be a tank :)

I never thought about that, but yes, it will help. I don't know what degree it will help with. It might be immeasurable, but I suspect it would make a small difference in a panic stop.

I'll be running 44x19 gearing... I figure at 62" that's decent for just cruising with the wife. The when you kick it up a notch, it'll be 85.5", a pretty good "speed" gear.

Seat installed, hub respaced to 126mm and chainline perfected, all of the leather bits treated with Proofide.

15g DT Champion spokes, Sun CR-18 rims, and MKS Sylvan road pedals on their way!

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Its looking awesome! Are you going to add a frame pump? A classic Zefal on the seat tube would not be out of place. Although in this case, maybe less is more.

Thanks!

It's funny that you should say that "less is more" comment. I've been thinking the same thing. Originally I had planned to put fenders, front and rear racks, and that handlebar bag... now I'm not sure I'll put any of those!!!

Well that's what's fun about a project like this, you can just let it evolve as you go and see where it takes you. I can see not adding racks or bags, but I wouldn't rule out some smooth Honjo fenders (with a fender mounted taillight). Fenders make a bike look classy IMHO. They add refinement, comfort, and an attitude of "I don't need to go anywhere fast, I just need to get there." :)

But lets see how it looks when you get the wheels and tires on it. I like your original plan for a clean and simple look. You may not need anything else.

Wow I can not wait to see this finished!

Well... I may be rethinking the tires... AGAIN. Like Saguaro said... this bike is "evolving" as it goes. White or cream tires are definitely out of the question now... but now I've seen these... has anybody tried them?

http://store.velo-orange.com/media/c.../r/tr-0003.jpg

I haven't tried them but they look great! Perfect for this bike. My first choice would have been classic gumwall Paselas. But having seen these now, I'm liking these more. I like that they are a bit different, not something you see everyday.

<sigh> A few bumps in the road.

I ordered a box of 100 spokes so that I would have enough for both wheels, and I picked up one rim so that I could start building.

Lesson #1: Don't build wheels when you are tired and have had a couple adult beverages.

I figured I would lace the wheels, and then tension and true the following morning. The next day I realized that I had ordered the wrong spokes. I bought 15g spokes... Sturmey-Archer specifies 13g or 14g only. Has anybody run spokes that are "too thin"? Since it was already laced, I went ahead and tenstioned and trued the wheel. If I start breaking spokes, I'll relace the wheel. :rolleyes: So that leads to lesson #2:

Lesson #2: Double check your order before clicking on "commit to buy".

Anyone want to buy 64 new 15g spokes, 291mm length?

I suppose I would be more disappointed, IF I was ready to lace up the front wheel. BUT...

Lesson #3: make SURE you know what you want before you buy it, or be ready to buy twice. (or more)

I was originally planning on using an old Normandy front hub... but then I made an unusual find. A Sturmey-Archer front track hub. Naturally, the dimensions are different from the Normandy, so I have to order new spokes. (BUT... I have to order new spokes anyway.)

And last lesson:

Lesson #4: Don't get TOO hooked into a project.

I was so excited by the progress made. So anxious to get it finished... ready to buy the last of the parts... and my wife just lost her job. No money to go towards "fun" stuff for a while. :(

I like to do radial patterns on front wheels. That can further complicate things...

Are the spokes double-butted?