Next project... 2 speed coastie? Your thoughts?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,940
Bikes: 1986 Raleigh Competition (Restored to Original), 1986 Cannonade SR400 (Updated to Dura Ace 7800)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Next project... 2 speed coastie? Your thoughts?
Now that I've finished up my son's bike, I'm in the planning/gathering stages for my next project. Here's the frame that I'm starting with:
(It's not rare or unusual... plenty of these old Raleighs around, so try not to get too upset about my plans. )
Here's what I'm thinking. I want something very "clean" looking.
1. Downtube shifter bosses - gone.
2. Top tube cable guides - gone.
3. Chainstay derailleur cable stop - gone.
4. Strip frame and powdercoat in cream/offwhite color.
5. Fork is bent - replace with chrome fork.
6. GB Randonneur bars and GB stem. (Already have)
7. Stitch-on brown elkhide bar "tape".
8. Brown brooks saddle.
9. Some kind of "track" (single chainring) crankset. (I'm open to suggestion for a good British crankset)
10. SRAM 2 speed automatix coaster brake hub.
11. Vintage high flange front hub.
12. VO PBP polished rims.
13. 700x28 tires
14. Fenders.
Thoughts and/or ideas?
(It's not rare or unusual... plenty of these old Raleighs around, so try not to get too upset about my plans. )
Here's what I'm thinking. I want something very "clean" looking.
1. Downtube shifter bosses - gone.
2. Top tube cable guides - gone.
3. Chainstay derailleur cable stop - gone.
4. Strip frame and powdercoat in cream/offwhite color.
5. Fork is bent - replace with chrome fork.
6. GB Randonneur bars and GB stem. (Already have)
7. Stitch-on brown elkhide bar "tape".
8. Brown brooks saddle.
9. Some kind of "track" (single chainring) crankset. (I'm open to suggestion for a good British crankset)
10. SRAM 2 speed automatix coaster brake hub.
11. Vintage high flange front hub.
12. VO PBP polished rims.
13. 700x28 tires
14. Fenders.
Thoughts and/or ideas?
#3
Get off my lawn!
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Garden State
Posts: 6,031
Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 98 Times
in
48 Posts
My thoughts....dropbars and some tread on the rear wheel to lay down some awsome skids.....my other thought would be to use a bigger frame so I could ride too!
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,940
Bikes: 1986 Raleigh Competition (Restored to Original), 1986 Cannonade SR400 (Updated to Dura Ace 7800)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
The only thing that I'm REALLY having a hard time with is the crankset.
Should I go classic:
Or more modern with a classic look:
Should I go classic:
Or more modern with a classic look:
#6
feros ferio
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Posts: 21,793
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1390 Post(s)
Liked 1,322 Times
in
835 Posts
For general fooling around, it is arguably a fun project. My first bike was a Schwinn "middleweight" with a 2-speed Bendix coaster hub controlled by a shifter which resembled a brake lever. I got a low-end 10-speed about 6 months later and never looked back. What I hated about the Schwinn was that I frequently needed something between the 67 gear-inch high and the 50 gear-inch low.
Your Raleigh would be much lighter and more responsive than my Schwinn.
Your Raleigh would be much lighter and more responsive than my Schwinn.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 346
Bikes: 2013 Rivendell Sam, 1996 Bianchi Milano, 1994 Trek 820
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
4 Posts
I've done a couple like that, only with somewhat more recent vintage frames (one of which I ground off all the offending braze ons and powder coated), as well as a Rivendell Sam I'm finishing up right now with the freewheel version of that hub. The Automatix hub is seamless in operation and (so far) bulletproof. The two bikes I used the coaster version on have 26" mtb rims, one with Soma New Xpress 1.95 tires (corrected--I had forgotten the Fat Franks didn't fit)-- a sort of lightweight cruiser on an old Bianchi Milano frame. The Sam has VO rims in 650b. For the converted Milano, I used a NOS crank that I had a devil of a time finding a silver chain ring for (94mm), the other got a Pake track/single set from Soma. The Sam got a clone of your pictured IRD made by FSA (Gimondi track set) from Universal. Any way you go, I'll bet you'll love the end result. There's something hypnotic about a single speed with overdrive!
Last edited by Cross Creek; 03-20-13 at 10:39 AM. Reason: correction
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,940
Bikes: 1986 Raleigh Competition (Restored to Original), 1986 Cannonade SR400 (Updated to Dura Ace 7800)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
For general fooling around, it is arguably a fun project. My first bike was a Schwinn "middleweight" with a 2-speed Bendix coaster hub controlled by a shifter which resembled a brake lever. I got a low-end 10-speed about 6 months later and never looked back. What I hated about the Schwinn was that I frequently needed something between the 67 gear-inch high and the 50 gear-inch low.
Your Raleigh would be much lighter and more responsive than my Schwinn.
Your Raleigh would be much lighter and more responsive than my Schwinn.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,146
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3803 Post(s)
Liked 6,639 Times
in
2,602 Posts
I have the SRAM 2-speed automatic shifting hub on one bike and like it a great deal. The gear ratios are a bit wacky, so I'm still fiddling with what's ideal, but it's a much better performing hub than the Sturmey Archer two-speed kick back, which I killed after a winter of commuting on it.
#10
Get off my lawn!
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Garden State
Posts: 6,031
Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 98 Times
in
48 Posts
I wouldn't want a smashed cotter ending my afternoon and laying down rubber...so I'd go cotterless
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 1,977
Bikes: Schwinn Paramount P15, Fisher Montare, Proteus, Rivendell Quickbeam
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
I've built up several of the 2 speed coaster bikes, but I've used vintage Bendix hubs. They are cool for cruising around, but that is about it. My advice would be: build up the wheel first and make sure you like it before you put all that money into the bike.
#12
MIKE is my name!
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: finland,baltimore
Posts: 2,846
Bikes: hans lutz, , puch mistral ultima,2x Austro Daimler Smoked chrome Ultima,Austro Daimler Mixte,Austro Daimler 531 mixte, flying arrow,F Moser,
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked 20 Times
in
4 Posts
im rebuilding a duomatic hub and complete bike , just started this afternoon.
I love the simlpicity of it.
waiting for the parts which should come this week
the LBS boss even likes the bike
I love the simlpicity of it.
waiting for the parts which should come this week
the LBS boss even likes the bike
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,940
Bikes: 1986 Raleigh Competition (Restored to Original), 1986 Cannonade SR400 (Updated to Dura Ace 7800)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
This may be a dumb question... but are there any English, single chainring, cotterless cranks? I honestly can't think of any manufacturers at the moment... and I wanted to try to keep this "as English as possible".
#14
MIKE is my name!
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: finland,baltimore
Posts: 2,846
Bikes: hans lutz, , puch mistral ultima,2x Austro Daimler Smoked chrome Ultima,Austro Daimler Mixte,Austro Daimler 531 mixte, flying arrow,F Moser,
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked 20 Times
in
4 Posts
stronglight 3 spider cranks look plenty proper!
#16
Get off my lawn!
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Garden State
Posts: 6,031
Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 98 Times
in
48 Posts
Take a double...use the outer ring and file off (gasp! ) the inner shoulders....It's now a single
#17
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,777
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3582 Post(s)
Liked 3,395 Times
in
1,929 Posts
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,146
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3803 Post(s)
Liked 6,639 Times
in
2,602 Posts
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Rhode Island (an obscure suburb of Connecticut)
Posts: 5,630
Bikes: one of each
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
12 Posts
I like coaster brakes a lot. I just got a 2 speed SA hub, but it would be great in 2 of the bikes I ride a lot and I can't decide which.
#21
Get off my lawn!
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Garden State
Posts: 6,031
Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 98 Times
in
48 Posts
#22
Senior Member
Go modern with the classic look. Then panto the crankset with the Cream colored paint. This will look great with the SRAM hub and the overall look of the bike.
#23
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,940
Bikes: 1986 Raleigh Competition (Restored to Original), 1986 Cannonade SR400 (Updated to Dura Ace 7800)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Progress is slow (for financial reasons)... but it's progress nonetheless!
Stem and center section of bars polished:
Chrome fork on its way... hopefully before the weekend.
Stem and center section of bars polished:
Chrome fork on its way... hopefully before the weekend.
#24
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,940
Bikes: 1986 Raleigh Competition (Restored to Original), 1986 Cannonade SR400 (Updated to Dura Ace 7800)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
All of the unneeded bits have been hacked off of the frame and it's in the shop being stripped, sandblasted and powdercoated. I can't wait to see how it will turn out!
Another apology to the "purists" out there... I ordered downtube decals from Cyclomondo. RL49. I always loved this font. Other than that, the frame will be naked of decals.
Another apology to the "purists" out there... I ordered downtube decals from Cyclomondo. RL49. I always loved this font. Other than that, the frame will be naked of decals.