f33dback

I'm new to this, but I did a fair amount of research. Any corrections or additional input will be greatly appreciated.

I'm currently building a bike (my first) and would like to keep costs down. This is the bike frame I purchased. It's a 700c frame. Can I reuse the fork (and headset) from a vintage 700c road bike I have laying around? Could the steering column width and length give me any issues?

Width

Do forks have any width compatibility requirements other than a matching headset? Does the steering tube's width matter at all? Most vintage racers have 1-inch diameters. Would a 1-inch fork fit any frame (provided the headset is made for 1-inch forks)/ Are there additional width-related issues to consider?

Length

The donor bike is a 52/53cm frame (it's way too small for me; I was sized for a 57cm frame). Could the donor bike's frame size (even though it has 700c wheels) impact my ability to transfer its fork to a larger-frame bike?

What am I missing?

Initially I thought that fork had to match the frame's steering tube width dimensions, but now I'm under the impression that the headset - not the frame's steering tube - is the most critical component that has to match up with the fork. This is my thinking: it's a 700c frame whose fork I'm reusing on a slightly larger, but newer frame. What am I missing?

Donor bike:

Glennfordx4

The short of it, No. The frame you bought looks like it is set up for a suspension fork that has a 44mm ID headtube race, the fork you have is a 1" fork plus it wouldn't be long enough for the frame. You would need a 1 1/8" threadless suspension corrected fork if you wanted to stay with a rigid fork or a 1 1/8" suspension fork.

Glenn

unworthy1

I drove here from you other thread, but Glennford has it 100%: for that frame you need a 1-1/8" steerer fork (regardless of other issues of style or function, such as suspension, brake choice, etc.) it has to be one made to fit a 700C (or 29er) wheel, and the length of the steerer should be based on the headtbe of the frame you buy (I assume you'd get the largest one offered, with effective 54cm seattube, which has a 140mm headtube) and this will almost certainly be a threadless style due to the headset required for that frame.
Then you factor in the stack-height of the headset (they want you to buy that FRM unit, which is probably a fine choice) which has a stack of a mere 16mm, add the stem and what spacers you wish then cut the steerer 3mm shorter.
You could probably get away with one of the cheap unicrown steel forks they sell for 19.99, but I'd check with them for sure.
best you consult Sheldon Brown or the Park Tool site and measure twice before you cut!

I advise you sell that old frame complete with fork, or even as a complete bicycle.

f33dback

Thanks for the input. I'm confused now, which is a good thing. Not sure how to set a price on that old frame since it's nameless. You mentioned the fork being designed for a suspension fork. I was hoping to maintain the road bike look - I don't like the appearance of sloping tube MTB geometry, and it seems like a suspension fork lifts the front end enough to the point that the bike looks like a mountain bike.

What do I need to do in order to avoid the MTB look on this frame? What do I need to look for in my future fork purchases for this bike?


update: maybe the best idea if I want a road bike is to cancel my order. Those cheap suspension forks are heavy and of subpar quality. The fork weighs as much as the frame. I wanted the hybrid frame bc it was cheaper and more versatile, but it looks like my initial savings will unfortunately be compensated for with a heavier, lower quality, and in attractive fork. Thanks for the input.

unworthy1

Yep: if you don't want that sloping-top-tube "hybrid" look in a bike, best not to start with that frame: it's built that way.
Depends on your location, but even though you can't ID that frame, I bet you can get at least $200 for that complete red Benelux road bike...you certainly could in SF, CA.

f33dback

Suppose it is worth a shot. Thanks.

WNG

The best cost cutting strategy is to buy a complete modern hybrid bike. go to bikesdirect.com and check out the Motobecane hybrid for $399.

I'd part out the old unknown donor bike and recoup the cost by selling it separately. It'll yield more than selling as a whole bike. Some pieces look to be valuable, others not. and the frame is an unknown.

f33dback

Thanks for the awesome advice everyone. I returned the hybrid - too much trouble (and ultimately not what I was after price wise nor was it exactly aesthetically pleasing.

399 for a Motobecane... That's established brand retail pricing (like Trek and Giant).

I learned some more about forks today. I also learned that some of these mail order bicycles require the use of internal headsets, which, in turn, require an internal headset fork.

kaliayev

Motobecane is not really the same company it used to be. The name was bought by a conglomerate and is more or less a generic brand now.