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Finders, keepers: Restoring 1977 Puch Marco Polo

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Finders, keepers: Restoring 1977 Puch Marco Polo

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Old 05-11-13, 08:03 PM
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Finders, keepers: Restoring 1977 Puch Marco Polo

Hi all! I have been reading this forum for some time but this is my first post.

I recently found myself with a 1977 Puch Marco Polo. I have no previous experience from restoring bikes but I took a basic bike maintenance class this spring and I'd like to give it a try. What is the worse thing that can happen, right? At this point, I have given the bike a good clean with Simple Green and basic Method dish soap. I applied some WD-40 on the seat post and to my great surprise, I managed to pull out the thing with no trouble at all. I also removed the crankset and I guess my next step is to clean it. My plan is to remove all the components, clean them up, and then give the frame a bath in oxalic acid to remove whatever rust the frame has collected. But what do I do after that? How should I treat the frame after the oxalic acid treatment? Based on what I have read on this forum, I assume I should neutralize with baking soda and apply frame saver. Anything else?

A few things I'd like to get some advice on:
1) Is there something I should absolutely NOT do or watch out for? What is the worse thing I can do wrong here? I am not sure what the bike is worth (I assume not much) and my goal is to use this bike as an opportunity to learn more about bikes, not expecting everything will go perfectly.

2) What parts should I consider changing? I assume I need new wheels but I'd like to keep the Suntour Cyclone derailleurs and shifters. The current wheels are 27". Is it possible to fit 700c wheels?

3) Am I totally crazy thinking this might be a doable project?

The serial number is 5845004 and according to the little sticker on the frame, the bike was originally bought from "Motion Market, 67 Union St. Newton Center, MA".

Here are the specs:
Puch Marco Polo 1977 (or so I was told)
Frame: Reynolds 531db
Fork and stays: Puch 482 nickel-carbon steel
Sakae World Champion Bars (white plastic bar tape looks very interesting)
SR Apex-5 crank and chainrings
Rigida Rims w/ Normandy hubs
Weinmab 610/Wainquer 999 brakes
Suntour Cyclone derailleur and shifters

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Last edited by she_bikes; 05-11-13 at 09:11 PM.
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Old 05-11-13, 08:56 PM
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Sweet frame. I dunno that it looks rusty enough for an acid bath, at least I'm lazy enough to forgo that step on a nice farme like this. I would just polish the paint and wax it with carnuba wax. It's probable that you could use 700c wheels if there is around 5mm of room left in the slots of the brake arms, the front looks like it should work but I can't make a guess on the rear. Likely possible to fit long reach brakes instead, modern ones are quite nice. I would use the current 27" wheels if they are true and made of aluminum and the spokes aren't rusty. I would rebuild the original hubs too, if the bearing races are shot then it's time for an upgrade anyway. I would use the suntour drivetrain assuming new cables and housing it should work perfectly fine. This looks like an awesome and totally do-able project.
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Old 05-12-13, 06:57 AM
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Congrats on a real find. I'm a big fan of sports touring bikes like this. Switching to 700c wheels is not a problem. The wheels are a bit smaller in diameter so you'll have to move the brake shoes down a bit; you may need brakes with a longer reach but you have center pulls so I doubt this will be an issue. Moving to 700c wheels is a good idea as that will give you better tire choices. Cambridge and Boston in general is a hot bike market so you can pick up what you need 2d hand and sell your old parts easily too. You'll need wheels that are 126 in the rear (you can use a 130 mm rear wheel which is more common today but you'll either have to spread the frame and or simply push the drop outs when you insert the wheel). Personally I'd probably just get a 126 mm rear wheel and stick with 7 speeds esp. since you want to keep the cyclone derailleurs.

Here is some info on your crank (you'll need this if you ever want to change out the rings): https://www.velobase.com/ViewComponen...794e2&Enum=115

Suntour cyclones were nice derailleurs; I'd keep them as well.

If this were my bike, I'd strip all the parts, clean the frame and the parts, and then rebuild it. I'd overhaul the bike by replacing all the ball bearings. I'd replace all the cables, the brake shoes, and the chain. I'd also get a good pair of 700c freewheels with a 7 speed freewheel. Shimano still makes them so they're cheap and available:
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Old 05-12-13, 07:14 AM
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Some us do this three times a week! Never found a frame bad enough for an OA dip. You might find a donor bike with te wheelset you want and put the old wheels on the donor and resell it.

Enjoy!
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Old 05-12-13, 09:48 AM
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I concur w/ bikemig and clasher. I like it, but then I have this thing for Austrian bikes.

(Steyr-Daimler-Puch's peak annual production of 100K units in Graz was about 20X what Otto Cap's shop built in Vienna.)
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Old 05-12-13, 10:16 AM
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I'd be wary of dipping this thing in acid; the bike has nice stickers (frame, manufacturer, and seller) that you don't want to ruin. I really doubt that the frame needs anything more than the clean you have already given it.
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Old 05-13-13, 03:12 PM
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Thanks for the tips, everyone! I will take your advice and resist the temptation of giving the frame an OA bath. It turns out that most of the rust that I was seeing was actually on top of the paint. The worst rust damage is in the chain stay. Any advice how to treat this?



Yesterday, I took of the rear derailleur and the rear brake. The brake cable was actually in a really decent condition (WAS before I eagerly destroyed it). The toughest part was getting the old rusty chain off. In the end, I bribed my husband to take it off with an angle grinder.

Thanks again, everyone!
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Old 05-13-13, 03:19 PM
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The easiest and cheapest thing I try after knocking off any loose rust with a brass brush is to take a paper towel soaked in white vinegar and then wrap it around the spot, then cover it with saran wrap. It's a bit tedious if one is in a rush but it's easier for me than doing a dunk of some sort. On any "found" frames I touch up with nail polish but on nicer ones I just wax it and keep an eye on it. A lot of hardware stores have naval jelly, or rust remover gel of some sort that saves the trouble of wrapping.
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Old 05-13-13, 03:37 PM
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Cool, thanks! My kitchen sink rust removal arsenal includes WD-40, bar keeper's friend, and an unknown mixture with no label that probably contains nuclear waste leftovers. I might try your vinegar suggestion first
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