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Today I saw a voyageur langushing and despondent on Craigslist, with very little more said about it than the "Great Bike" topic and the price. I knew what it was as soon as I saw it (it looks just like mine). And even though the frame is too big for me to even consider riding it, I know I should save it. I had to save it!!

It certainly isn't hopeless, I believe the wheels and components are definitely within salvation. And the frame rust isn't pitted, nor is it widespread. It's just obvious to make me think the bike will be really ugly if i try to touch it up.

I hate to rattle-can paint a touring bike because I don't think it's durable enough. And since I will have to eventually sell it, here are my questions:

1. If you had to pick a color for this bike to be powdercoated, what would it be? (Even though I favor bright colors like yellow and red, it seems touring bikes seem to look "righter" in more subtle colors.)

2. Do you think it would be worth a bit extra if it was chrome plated? I have sent an email to St. Louis Plating Co. to find out how painful this would be.

yeah, yeah, pics:

ColonelJLloyd 

I had my '88 Voyageur powdercoated "molten copper".


Untitled by ColonelJLloyd, on Flickr

It's a three stage powdercoat (black, copper, clear) and has not turned out to be super durable. Solid colors have been more durable in my experience. I had my dad's Trek 620 powdercoated a greyish white with matching racks.


Untitled by ColonelJLloyd, on Flickr

noglider 

Would it be worth it for me? No.

Is it worth it for you? I can't say.

Would you get your investment back? Not likely.

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At the end of the day I'm not going to lose money on the deal. If it looks like I can't win, I will strip the frame and let it go, and save or sell the parts at my whimsy. The redeeming factor is that I only have peanuts in it right now.

Gravity Aided

Is that an '86, with Columbus Tenax Tubing set and Shimano Light Action ? I've got a Passage from 1987, and it's a truly great bike, on a par with the Prelude, but with truly great touring ability. feel good about this one. I think you got a pretty good deal. True, it isn't the Holy Grail, but it is one hell of a fine bicycle. (In clear coated "British Pine")

https://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1...986Ltwt16.html

TimmyT 

Let's assume it was less than $100 because it was a great deal. With a powdercoat, you're looking at around $250-$300. You still have plenty of room to make a little for your bike fund.

The easiest thing to do is list it as-is in the For Sale section. Someone here will pick it up and finish the job.

Howard

One of two bikes I saw come unglued during a tour was a Schwinn Voyageur. That said, I'm pretty sure it was a one-off event, and at any rate it was just one of the rack eyelets that came off, so the frame is likely durable enough. As for the paint ... I have no idea.

The other one was a different Schwinn (seat stays walked off the job and were making for the head tube on that one).

I wouldn't - and haven't - let either of these keep me from a Schwinn if that's what I wanted, and the Voyageur was a pretty decent touring bike at that time. Better than many, even. Just always seemed strange that the two brazing fails I happened to see over 6-7 years were the same marque.

Lascauxcaveman 

I could see taking on this project if

a) the bike was my size
b) I had a specific idea of a color & build scheme.

As a flip? I think you're wasting your time, unless you feel a re-done (and therefore, un-original) Voyageur has a lot of value in your market.

sykerocker 

The economics of what you're looking at:

Plan on a week of evenings tearing down the bike, cleaning and polishing every component, regreasing all bearings, etc. You'll definitely need an oxalic acid bath, Mother's alloy polish, rubbing compound and polish. Parts (from what I can see): New chain, new tyres, handlebar tape (minimum) and possibly replace a cable or two. You're going to need to come up with some kind of long, thin tank for that oxalic acid bath to soak the top tube (and whatever other tubes are equally scratched) to get rid of the rust. I work on the basis of I'd rather soak off filth and rust than apply elbow grease, which means my oxalic acid bath, parts washer at work and ultrasonic cleaner are getting pretty regular use.

So, you're looking at $60-70 parts (that's counting Forte bike tyres bought on sale). In that condition, I usually pay $20-40 for the bike. Given it's a Voyageur and will sell for better money, I'd go $50. Don't laugh, in about two days, I'll be posting a 1992 Specialized Allez Competition I just bought for $50.00 and will probably finish tonight - those bikes are out there. The bad news is that you usually have to catch them before the Craigslist posting, by that time the seller is getting delusions of valuable.

Around Richmond, that bike finished and as clean as is possible without touching up paint will go for $250.00 or so. And take a couple of weeks to sell because the only stuff that turns over fast (normally) is under $200.00.

Powder coat is going to add $150-200.00 to your costs, and may bring an addition $100.00 to your selling price. The only stuff I ever sell that's been powder coated is personal riders that are due to be cycled out because I need room for something new. Chrome is probably more expensive. I'll be finding that out shortly.

sykerocker 

I have two weaknesses in my rebuilding ability: 1. My rattle can jobs, no matter how I follow the instructions and past postings regarding setup, priming, sanding and recoating always look like I somebody's garden furniture after one coat of Rustoleum. 2. I can't braze. Someday I have to learn.

Unless you REALLY know what you're doing with a rattlecan, a bike will always look better in the original paint with all the scratches, as long as you've soaked away the rust.

Phil_gretz

For a long narrow deep pan, the wallpaper soaking trays are just right for downtube, toptube, and stays. It doesn't allow you to get the seat tube, so the wrap/cover/tape method must be used.

This frame doesn't need a repaint. After the OA bath and waxing, it can be touched up. Your local car paint detailer or auto shop can help you get a touch up container to match. Or use fingernail polish, which comes in an infinite variety of colors and shades. Remember, since the frame doesn't fit you, it's a flip after all.

I agree on the Forte tires, chain, and tape. I'd also recommend replacing the cables and housings, as these help marginal brakes perform their best. You'll want fresh KoolStop pads, too. I also use the BMX bolt-on pads with some success (they're typically a softer material, and come in a variety of colors).

Also, new bolts on the fork mid-mounts to highlight their presence, and on the seatstay mounts. Little details show up in a good listing, and can fetch that extra $25-50. Nice clean bottle mount bolts, and at least one bottle cage.

That's a $300 bike (all polished up and fully reconditioned, a desireable size) in the DC market. Good luck.

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I'm not scared of overhauling the bike, in fact if I decide to launch the project that is exactly what I will do. And the bike even came with new tires. They are cheap, but they are new.
I have never heard of a wallpaper soaking tray (Thank you God!!!), but I will look that up. What is the "wrap/cover/tape" method? Is that the idea of putting stickers over the bad parts?

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I did have an '84 Voyageur before that I thought was a little more attractive.

Phil_gretz

Wallpaper trays were essential from the 1960s through mid 1980s for home decorating. From memory, they're roughly 48" long by 8" wide and ~6 or 8 inches deep.

The wrapping method is for applying oxalic acid directly to a tube that can't be submerged in an OA bath. You prepare by taping above and below the tube portion to be soaked. Use a good sealing, but removable tape - similar in adherence to electrical tape. Arrange the tube horizontally [level] (as in an articulated bike stand clamp). Lay a smooth and complete turn or two of each. Then soak wrap a rag around the offending area, within the boundary of the tape. Secure with a couple of turns of cotton cord. Dampen the cloth with OA until it is moist/damp, but not Cut a layer of plastic wrap the width of the tape region, and use tape to secure/seal it on both ends around the previous tape, making a somewhat water tight seal. Let stand for the desired time (a few hours, depending on the concentration). Remove and wash with mild soap and water with a little bicarbonate of soda mixed in, to neutralize. Let dry. Buff lightly on the formerly rusted areas. Touch up as desired. Let dry fully. Lightly wax.

TimmyT 

I use a window planter box. They are long and thin like a wallpaper soaking tray.

JBC353

Without regard to economics, that could be a very nice bike. I would powder coat it gloss black and polish all the components. Chrome plating is cool but this ain't no Harley.

If you are going to salvage the original paint use Evapo-rust on it. ScratchX on the original paint but finding matching paint for those big bare spots will be tough. Meguiars Hot Rims aluminum wheel cleaner, Mothers aluminum polish and lots of elbow grease on the components. It will look so good and ride so nice you won't want to sell it.

kaliayev

Quoted prices for powder coating seem high to me. I have a LBS who specializes in powder coating. They only charge $100 for frame/fork and price includes stripping the old paint.

Grand Bois

A bike shop with powder coating equipment?

kaliayev

Yeah. Mostly a mountain/BMX shop, but recently have been adding a few road bike line-ups such as Surly. The young man who owns the shop has true appreciation of vintage steel. Here is a pic of the most recent work he did for me, a '78 Trek TX700. The upside of a bike shop doing the powder coating is he realizes the importance of keeping the threaded areas clean. He also faces the bottom bracket and head tube.

badger_biker 

Mine didn't have the rust like yours but plenty of nicks and scratches. Since I was keeping it for myself I did the rattlecan first and figure when and if that goes bad I would have it powder coated. Surprisingly with a clearcoat the finish is holding up well and doesn't seem as susceptible to chipping as I had thought. I love the ride and handling with a load.

I don't know that I would do either for a flip. Probably try and clean up the rust and try to match or prime some how.

kaliayev

Nice work badger. If I ever decide to get another touring frame, a Voyageur built with Columbus SP or Tenax will be high on my list. They for some reason seem to be one of the few nicely built vintage tourers that are still undervalued. At least in my area.

Germany_chris

How long have you been married?

I didn't know what those where untill I'd been married for a couple years and well the bedroom needed redone, the my daughters room needed redone etc.

PeregrineA1 

Agree the PC numbers seem high. I paid $75.00 in North Carolina and pay $100.00 in California. LBS in both places get $25.00 to chase and face.

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So the prices are in: Chrome is $225 by St. Louis Plating, I figure I would have to sell the bike for $500-550 (with decals replaced)
PC at local shop is "$75-$175 to media blast and powdercoat. Price would depend on the color". Let's assume I pick a cheap color, I would have to sell the bike for $300-350 (with decals replaced)
Or I can take my chances with the paint and fix it myself. Considering I still have to commit considerable handwork and buy matching paint, this option isn't holding up well to the cost of powder coat.
If I was keeping this bike, I have to say I would go for the chrome in a heartbeat. Partly for the love of the older chrome voyageurs and paramounts, and partly because I would never scratch the paint again.

Opinions, now that we know the prices, what say ye?

mparker326

Just remove the rust and do the tune up and sell it. Let someone else deal with the paint.