jdefran

On my current build I am using the Suntour metal housing typically used with barcons. I find that using them at their length would create quite a bit of slop/play, the housing nearly rests on the fork crown. I understand some of this is expected as the housing is considerably heavier than today's offerings. Before I go cutting up some hard to get stuff, do you have any suggestions? Perhaps you can provide a picture of a similar set up.

As a side note, the housing is from a former bike..it's possible the cable stop was located in a different location therefore necessitating the cutting of the housing.

I do have two other bikes with bar ends and modern housing and have not encountered this before.

Edit: Meant to type 'Advise' in title..

rootboy 

That stuff is quite floppy. With only coiled steel it is not as stiff as regular housing, as you've discovered. I have some short lengths of it on my Frejus at the moment. Length depends on the distances you need.

Here's one way to sort of keep it in line:

jdefran

Would you mind providing a photo to get an idea of appropriate length?

rootboy 

Well, it might not do much good as this bike has brazed on cable stop on the top tube, so I was able to use relatively short lengths,
which is all I had anyway as it was meant for bar end shifters.
Maybe I misunderstood. Are you using it with bar ends? If so, maybe somebody else will chime in, as I don't use bare ends.

randyjawa 

Actually, this is an interesting question, and there could be different answers, depending on the cables and casings in question. STI, for example, will behave differently than the stainless steel spiral used by the OP.

I install my bars, position the brakes and Barcons where I want them to be when the job is complete. Next, I use electrical tape to hold the cables and casings onto the handlebar, attempting to achieve symmetry. This done, I place the cable/casing into the down tube cable bracket and pull the cable tight, ensuring that the handlebar remains perpendicular to the center line of the bicycle. This will have to be repeated for each side.

If the cable drops more than is desired, re-tape the cable to the bar, but closer to the steering stem, and slightly higher on the curve of the drop. If that does not work, then it is time to shorten the cable casings, a bit at a time to achieve the desired results. While attempting to shorten, do not shorten so much that the bars cannot be turned fully without cramping or stretching the cable/casing assembly.

Anyway, that's how I do it and, try for gentle curves, rather than tight ones. This will improve shifting performance. And, for the best performance, dump the stainless steel old school cable/casings in favor of STI. They work much better, but at the expense of vintage appearl

smallpox champ

Once the housing is compressed it should be able to hold its shape. I have an Expedition with stock Barcons and very long spiral housing unassisted from the stops to the bar ends. I'll get a pic up.

smallpox champ

It does flop a little bit over bumps, I often use velcro cable tie around the downtube at the headtube and that sorts it out well enough.

wrk101

I run the cable under the bar tape quite a ways, still looping it out before the brake lever. Leaving it entirely exposed = maximum flop. I try to mount it so the housing runs in a direct line with the DT.

This is original OEM length, off a 57cm donor bike, installed on this 48cm Sequoia.





TB

The Golden Boy 

I think you should post more pix of that Expedition.

zukahn1 

I'm with wrk 101 on this I run them under the bartape to about the front of the drops from there they should be just long enough to give smooth half circle curve. Setup properly done they will seem a little long and potrude from the front of the bars some, this setup seems a little odd but it is the correct setup for these.

Grand Bois

The examples above look ridiculously long to me. I like my cables to be as long as they need to be for smooth operation and no longer.

zukahn1 

Well with these bare type cables they tend to split and kink some if you go shorter even with housed cabling the proper cabling on suntour barends tends to look clunky and long its just the nature of these they are one very few cable routings that actually makes a true 180 deegree turn wich reguires about a n extra half foot or so of cable.

The Golden Boy 

That looks like a really classy bike!

(sorry for the derail- again)

Cougrrcj

+1 That's the way I've had those SunTour barcon cables on my Fuji since 1976! My current Univega build is also getting the same SunTour barcon and cable treatment - all four original-style coiled steel housings. The two off the shifter, and then the u-bends at both derailleurs.

Another thing you might want to try is to get another downtube housing stop, drill it out to the OD of the housing and bolt it an inch or so ahead of the other housing stop. Run the housing through that first one as an added 'housing angle support' so all of the bending motion is not at the housing stop.

wrk101

+1 While it does look crazy long, I am reluctant to cut housing that has lasted 30 to 40 years. Its an acquired taste for sure.