If the (brake) shoe fits....butwhat if it doesn't?
#1
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If the (brake) shoe fits....butwhat if it doesn't?
So here's the issue. Built up a '81 Raleigh Comp with 700c wheels and Campagnolo GS brakes with Dia Comp shoes. The reach was almost there, and somehow I got them adjusted and it worked. Wore out several sets of tires and this week the brake pads and tires got changed together. Same tire Pascela Panarer 32's , they fit like before....it's close but they fit, and as you can see, the shoe is about 1.5mm above the rim surface. It was close in the original build too but this time the pad rubs the tire on the right side as it makes contact with the rim. I need a fix!
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5504/9...02010fdb_n.jpg
Trim the top edge of the pads?
File the slot in the caliper to get the 1.5mm
Replacing the calipers is not an option nor 27" rims
Any suggestions?
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5504/9...02010fdb_n.jpg
Trim the top edge of the pads?
File the slot in the caliper to get the 1.5mm
Replacing the calipers is not an option nor 27" rims
Any suggestions?
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Isn't that frame for 27in wheels and not the 700c. I believe the 27in are slightly larger in diameter and the calipers would be perfect. Just sayin' not sure.
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Filing, that's what I suspected, thanks for the confirmation.
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Keep looking for Cinderella? A drop bolt.
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A wedge shaped spacer on the shoe and a corresponding washer on the nut will angle the whole thing down a little. Or just file it.
#9
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PB, Drop bolt = too much drop. RHM, Thought of changing the pitch of the pad but then I'd have to grind the face of the pad to mate with the rim surface so then I thought why bother, cut to the chase and just cut the pad back a bit and then.....we'll it's a beautiful circle of logic and reason but in the end I did neither. So I posted my mini dilemma here last night to see if I was on the right track......should have just filed the caliper and been done with it I suppose.
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...turn it into a fixie.
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But it already is ..... I like to run brakes, and this one is intended for rides with hills so front and rear brakes are very much appreciated particularly since I'm getting older.
Spent some time working on it this morning. The slots are not symmetrical!! They are they same length but the right side is about .5mm higher if I use the bottom of the caliper arm as a fixed point of reference. Obviously, Campagnolo uses a different point of reference because they could not have made the mistake...right?
Spent some time working on it this morning. The slots are not symmetrical!! They are they same length but the right side is about .5mm higher if I use the bottom of the caliper arm as a fixed point of reference. Obviously, Campagnolo uses a different point of reference because they could not have made the mistake...right?
Last edited by Velognome; 10-29-13 at 09:10 AM.
#13
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My 1980 Shimano 600 arms hold the pads at different heights too, figured it just a design of the single pivot. After filing the arm I would go with larger washers to get a bit more strength out of the arm.
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Moving the rear wheel forward or back a bit might help.
You could also file down the top of the dropout slot a bit.
You could also file down the top of the dropout slot a bit.
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If you only need a mm or so, you may get there by filing the threads on the brake pad bolts just where they contact the slot in the caliper arms. I've done this successfully where I only needed about 1mm, and preferred filing the replacement brake pad holders (Jagwire X replacement pads, $1 each at LBS) over the brake caliper arms.
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Last edited by gaucho777; 10-29-13 at 10:37 PM.
#16
~>~
The Comp GS that year came OEM w/ Weinmann "605" sidepulls, a tad longer reach than your Campy set.
Judicious use of a sharp file on the caliper arms and proceed.
-Bandera
#17
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This is a tight tolerance ride since It's running 700x32's so it's only fitting the brakes are pushed to the edge too.
I'd like to thank everyone for there input!
#18
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If you only need a mm or so, you may get there by filing the threads on the brake pad bolts just where they contact the slot in the caliper arms. I've done this successfully where I only needed about 1mm, and preferred filing the replacement brake pad holders (Jagwire X replacement pads, $1 each as LBS) over the brake caliper arms.
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ISO: 60 CM steel frame/fork/hs/bb. Looking to trade my 1992 56 CM Trek 1200. PM me if you have something that fits the bill.
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A Shop teacher* once said "Always file and cut the disposable item first."
Since you noted the arms are uneven, light filing to even them up is good.
*That was me and I learned from my teacher.
Since you noted the arms are uneven, light filing to even them up is good.
*That was me and I learned from my teacher.
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What I don't get is ... that may be the first set of Gran Sport brakes I've seen that has brake shoe holders with wheel guides. Which makes them either: Record, Super record, later Campy model or other brand. If they are either of the first two, I would file the caliper arms before I filed on the brake shoe studs.
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What I don't get is ... that may be the first set of Gran Sport brakes I've seen that has brake shoe holders with wheel guides. Which makes them either: Record, Super record, later Campy model or other brand. If they are either of the first two, I would file the caliper arms before I filed on the brake shoe studs.
I think they are an early set, block letters CAMPAGNOLO on the left arm, G.S. on the right.
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I really miss ilikebikes' sig. He caved to the pressure. Probably lines up the tire label with the valve stem too.