Schwinn MTB 4130 dbl butted main tubes - what do I have?
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Nigel
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Schwinn MTB 4130 dbl butted main tubes - what do I have?
This is a rescued bike; much of it appears not be original. What do I have?
The brakes are not original - has hangers for cantis. The hubs do not look original to me. I suspect the Shimano 600 head set is original. RD - probably original.
Thank you
The brakes are not original - has hangers for cantis. The hubs do not look original to me. I suspect the Shimano 600 head set is original. RD - probably original.
Thank you
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What is the 4 digit code that is stamped into the head tube badge?
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That is a 1985 Schwinn Cimarron: https://bikecatalogs.org/SCHWINN/1985/ATB/Cimarron.html
The ovalized and fillet brazed top and down tubes at the head tube give it away. The equipment and Forest Green paint give it away as an '85: https://mombat.org/Schwinn_Specs.htm
That was Schwinn's top of the line mountain bike at the time. Post the serial number on the bottom bracket and the stamp on the headbadge and we will be able to tell you when the frame was made and the day the bike was assembled.
The ovalized and fillet brazed top and down tubes at the head tube give it away. The equipment and Forest Green paint give it away as an '85: https://mombat.org/Schwinn_Specs.htm
That was Schwinn's top of the line mountain bike at the time. Post the serial number on the bottom bracket and the stamp on the headbadge and we will be able to tell you when the frame was made and the day the bike was assembled.
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Metacortex is spot on with the model and year, you rescued a 1985 Cimarron. Well done and congrats on the score! As far as the Cimarron model goes, 1985 was the first year of production. Three years later Schwinn returned to the same green with the 1988 Cimarrron LE, it was something of a special edition not reflected in the catalog as the standard Cimarron came in red and black. It was a short run with 1989 being the final year of the model, the lugged construction of the Cimarron was replaced with a Paramount made Paramountain custom order frame and fork. Based on the photos provided, I can tell you that the headset, crank, and front derailleur are all stock to the original specs. Even better is you have the original fillet brazed fork! The 1985 Cimarron was the only year to have a matching fillet brazed frame and fork, later models had a lugged fork and later a tig-welded. My 1988 had a lugged fork, when I restored my Cimarron I replaced the stock fork with a 1985 fillet brazed Gary Fisher fork (the stock lugged fork is going on a future project). Whether you restore the bike to original or do a custom build, these Cimarron bikes are unique enough and worthy of some love. I'll include a 1985 catalog scan, a photo of my 1985 Cimarron project, and a photo of the 1988 LE that I recenlty finished. Good luck and enjoy the build, whichever way you go, you'll have a rare American made gem that reflects the best of Schwinn's rich history.
(*On the stock green 1985 fork with the fillet brazing, note the "smooth and flat" crown, the same as your 2nd photo)
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That's a really cool bike.
I've got a High Sierra- fillet brazed at the head tube but TIG welded at the seat and BB.
If you get that cleaned up- that is several steps above "an old mountain bike."
I've got a High Sierra- fillet brazed at the head tube but TIG welded at the seat and BB.
If you get that cleaned up- that is several steps above "an old mountain bike."
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
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These Cimarrons represent Schwinn's last big fight to save the company with American made quality, along with the Schwinn Aluminum Series bikes (with licensed patents from Gary Klein), the lugged Columbus (SL) road frames, and the new production facility in Greenville (Mississippi) all combined to prove Schwinn had plans for the future and were digging their heels in to revamp the company.
nfmisso, should you decide the bike isn't a good fit or the slack geometry isn't for you... I'd be happy to give your Cimarron a loving home!
best regards,
-D-
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Hi All;
The prospect of restoring it is a bit daunting for me; I bought it with intention of making a commuter out of it, not realizing it's rarity. I would be interested in trading it to a serious collector for something that does not need painting, double butted cr-mo or 531, in my size (55-58cm seat tube to headset) to turn into a commuter. I will not be doing anything with it for a few weeks at least. Feel free to contact me: nfmisso@gmail.com
The prospect of restoring it is a bit daunting for me; I bought it with intention of making a commuter out of it, not realizing it's rarity. I would be interested in trading it to a serious collector for something that does not need painting, double butted cr-mo or 531, in my size (55-58cm seat tube to headset) to turn into a commuter. I will not be doing anything with it for a few weeks at least. Feel free to contact me: nfmisso@gmail.com
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I think $40 is being generous and kind.
The bike may be one of distinction and model significance, but it's not one that's recognized as a rare high-dollar collectable. Besides that, it's in fair-poor condition.
If it was in pristine shape, original components, you may fetch top dollar for it and may come close to trading for a mid level cr-mo road bike of equal condition.
It's a bike worthy of restoring (see earlier post of one by neo) if it fell in your lap. But if you aren't the DIYer or not equipped or experienced in doing such work, it becomes a big task and expensive to hire others to do.
The cost will equal or surpass the price of finding one in immaculate condition.
Sorry, but that's the realistic situation here.
At minimum, one must chem strip or beadblast, and dip in oxalic acid, fix any dents, powdercoat, acquire functional components, replace all wear items, inspect and overhaul bearings, replace if necessary. Any extras to equip as a commuter before being done.
The bike may be one of distinction and model significance, but it's not one that's recognized as a rare high-dollar collectable. Besides that, it's in fair-poor condition.
If it was in pristine shape, original components, you may fetch top dollar for it and may come close to trading for a mid level cr-mo road bike of equal condition.
It's a bike worthy of restoring (see earlier post of one by neo) if it fell in your lap. But if you aren't the DIYer or not equipped or experienced in doing such work, it becomes a big task and expensive to hire others to do.
The cost will equal or surpass the price of finding one in immaculate condition.
Sorry, but that's the realistic situation here.
At minimum, one must chem strip or beadblast, and dip in oxalic acid, fix any dents, powdercoat, acquire functional components, replace all wear items, inspect and overhaul bearings, replace if necessary. Any extras to equip as a commuter before being done.
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The only part that is daunting to me is the painting. The rest is no different from what I have done with my SR, GT and others, which were projects that I started from bare frames.
Based on the feedback above, it looks like the best thing to do is strip it down, de-rust the frame and re-paint, followed by chemically protecting the interior of the frame, then rebuild to suit. It does not sound like it is worth powder coating, so it will be rattle cans.
I am not looking for a collector bike, just function, but from the initial feedback, I thought that some collector might want it.
Thank you for the information.
Based on the feedback above, it looks like the best thing to do is strip it down, de-rust the frame and re-paint, followed by chemically protecting the interior of the frame, then rebuild to suit. It does not sound like it is worth powder coating, so it will be rattle cans.
I am not looking for a collector bike, just function, but from the initial feedback, I thought that some collector might want it.
Thank you for the information.
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powder coat. Especially if you are going to be commuting on it.
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I would also powdercoat, because the cost usually includes the stripping of the frame to bare metal. Shop around, you may be able to find a shop to do it under $100 in your area.
When you add up the cost of stripping chemicals, sandpaper, cans of primer and cans of paint....it comes pretty close to the cost of a cheap powdercoat job. Factor in effort, and time, and the tougher finish of powder, it levels the scales.
If powdercoated, do stress that it can't be sandblasted. Must use a softer material and beadblast it, or the brass will be removed.
When you add up the cost of stripping chemicals, sandpaper, cans of primer and cans of paint....it comes pretty close to the cost of a cheap powdercoat job. Factor in effort, and time, and the tougher finish of powder, it levels the scales.
If powdercoated, do stress that it can't be sandblasted. Must use a softer material and beadblast it, or the brass will be removed.
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It seems I have a Schwinn Cimarron too!
Please refer to this thread to find pictures!
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ostid=16497211
Please refer to this thread to find pictures!
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ostid=16497211
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