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  1. #26
    Senior Member rootboy's Avatar
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    If the question had been which one you ride the most, it would be clinchers. But I have a mix of both.
    Computers are useless. All they can give you are answers.
    P. Picasso

  2. #27
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    Although after three years and a few thousand miles I still consider myself a newbie. I have clinchers on the modern CF Bianchi and Tubelars on the Olmo. I am a little aprehensive on the tubies simply due to inexperience so I purchased some fixaflat and CO2 cartridges until I learn more about changing a flat on a tubular.

  3. #28
    Senior Member rootboy's Avatar
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    When you do have to eventually learn to fix a flat tubular, if you do, I doubt that Fixaflat goo will be your friend. Just my opinion.
    Computers are useless. All they can give you are answers.
    P. Picasso

  4. #29
    Ride Fast and Ride Safe! gioscinelli's Avatar
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    What about "Tubeless Wheels and Tires"? There's an excellent article in Road Action Bike Magazine issue in their buyer guide about "tubeless tires and wheels. Has anyone have and used a set?
    Gios Pro Cinelli SC Colnago C50

  5. #30
    If I own it, I ride it CV-6's Avatar
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    Last year I scored some FMB 25mm Paris-Roubaix real cheap. No one on another forum was willing to take a chance. I am completely sold on them. Got a second set for Christmas. They are now aging in the basement. I do still ride some Veloflex clinchers, but less and less.
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  6. #31
    iab
    iab is offline
    Senior Member iab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rootboy View Post
    When you do have to eventually learn to fix a flat tubular, if you do, I doubt that Fixaflat goo will be your friend. Just my opinion.
    Depends on the size of the hole. If it too big for a sealant, I recommend Tire Alert.

  7. #32
    Senior Member spacemanz's Avatar
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    I just realized, it's been quite awhile since I had a flat. That's probably just because I've trained myself to make sure I have patches at ALL times, LOL. As soon as I don't bring them, I'll probably get a flat.

  8. #33
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by rootboy View Post
    When you do have to eventually learn to fix a flat tubular, if you do, I doubt that Fixaflat goo will be your friend. Just my opinion.
    Rootboy,
    Good point, however I know how to patch a clincher on the side of the road but I do not know how to patch a tubelar. I read several articles that fixaflat and some top up CO2 will get me home in most cases.

  9. #34
    Senior Member CroMo Mike's Avatar
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    I carry a spare tubular and throw the old one away. Patching them has never worked for me. The spare is a "previously glued" one so it sticks well enough to get home without having to use glue beside the road. On short trips without a spare I plan to call home for the sag wagon to come and get me. Our roads are relatively clean here and I have only had two punctures in 4 years and 20k miles.

  10. #35
    Senior Member Oldpeddaller's Avatar
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    Tubulars for preference, got them on three of my classic 'racing' C&V rides - and would like to build more wheels with tubular rims when I can get them cheaply enough. For my C&V 'Touring' rigs, I use clinchers, ideally something like a 25 or 28mm Pasella Tourguard - good flat protection and plenty of tread. i'm quite interested in tubeless, but can't see me using them in preference to tubulars or clinchers. Jantex rim tape is a recent discovery of mine, tried it for the first time two weeks ago and it really simplifies mounting a tubular - none of the messy painting cement on, letting it dry and so on. It's easier to replace a tubular with a spare tyre on the roadside and fix the puncture at home later. No great skill to this, the trick is to find out where the puncture is as often the air escapes the tyre carcass several inches from the hole in the tube. Clamping lengths of the tubular between two boards in a vice helps to identify this. Then, apart from a bit of simple sewing and gluing the base tape back on, fixing the puncture is similar to repairing a clincher tube. Nothing to be scared of here, folks - and the feel of riding on tubulars is just so exhilarating.
    Oldpeddaller - The older I get, the better I used to be !!!" ***** If at first you don't succeed - hit it with a hammer.

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  11. #36
    Senior Member RobbieTunes's Avatar
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    Tubulars for running hard.
    Tubular clinchers for running long.
    Clinchers for most, because I have more of those wheels, and chip seal is getting more and more common around here.

    I am using one of iab's tubular socks on a modern carbon Cinelli. Not one person has asked about the incongruity.
    I'm stalking a set of tubular carbon wheels, which have a hard time selling around here, which is advantage-Robbie.
    Robbie ♪♫♪...☻
    You will not believe how fast I used to be...

    1979 Centurion Semi Pro
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  12. #37
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    I haven't ridden tubulars in a very long time. Sometimes I think I'll try them again. Then I think better of it.
    Please email me rather than sending me a private message. My address is noglider@pobox.com

    Tom Reingold
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    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

  13. #38
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    I don't really "get" high end "classic and vintage" bicycles with clinchers. Putting clinchers on an old Italian race bike, for instance, is kind of akin to installing brifters and clipless: it might make the bike more what you as the owner want, but it moves the bike into some "other" category.

    Of course, if your particular niche is, say, the Centurion Ironman, then good clinchers are entirely appropriate. Same if you collect old French randos.

    Short version, I guess, is that in my opinion "classic" bikes should be maintained as they were. If clinchers are appropriate to the level and time period, great. But putting clinchers on a 70s Masi should result in bad karma, at the least.

  14. #39
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    Oh, and re. the age old "which is better?" argument, I will posit this: neither.

    Some clinchers are easier to change/install than some tubulars. But a pair of Challenge Paris-Roubaix clinchers remain the single most difficult installation I have experienced in 30 years of mounting bicycle tires, while made-in-Italy Vittoria CG/CXs glued up straight and easy in a matter of minutes.

    Some clinchers are more flat-resistant than some tubulars. But I can't go more than 200 miles without puncturing a 700c Grand Bois Cypres, and I usually can wear out an FMB Paris-Roubaix without a single flat. Yet I have never gotten anywhere near wearing out the "pair-and-a-spare" quality tubular, and have on one occasion not even made it out of the parking lot on a freshly mounted one.

    And some clinchers wear better than some tubulars, but I once had a batch of Panaracer racing slicks (clincher) that wouldn't stand up to a thousand miles on the rear, and I once put something like 5000 miles on a Wolber training tubular that wore down to the steel belt and then simple stopped wearing entirely. (It eventually exploded when I badly screwed up a bunny hop over a curb while not entirely sober.)

    Bottom line: Most of what you've heard about bicycle tires is bull****. You should probably ride whatever you want to ride and not pay any attention to what people say about it.

  15. #40
    vintage motor kroozer's Avatar
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    I have a couple sets of tubular wheels for my pre-1975 racers. I like them because they're the correct wheels for those bikes, they're very light, they ride nicely, and of course they make me a more hard-core C&Ver. But I really dislike repairing them. Everything else has clinchers of varying sizes: 26" for the mountain bikes, 27" for the older sport and touring bikes, a single bike with 650B, and 700C for post-1975 road bikes of all types.

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