Shimano 600/6400 freehub
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Shimano 600/6400 freehub
I have a Shimano 600/6400 Ultegra 7 speed freehub. I have recently ordered a new Shimano CS-HG41 Hyperglide 7 speed cassette in 11-28. Will this cassette work on my freehub?
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My gut feel is no. Early 600 7-speed was UniGlide and I think 600 was 8-speed by the time HyperGlide was introduced. But there may have been some later 600 7-speed freehubs that accepted both UG and HG cassettes.
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You could swap on a replacement 7-speed Hyperglide freehub body that would accept an 11T, though, and you'd need to anyway if your hub is Uniglide-only.
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Where would one find a replacement hyperglide freehub body?
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For current production, include "STX-RC" in your Google search. They run about $20-25.
Depending on which hub you have (mind posting pics?), you may be able to run a Hyperglide cassette that starts with a 12, 13 or 14 without swapping the freehub body. Shimano used the "6400" designation for several different hubs.
Depending on which hub you have (mind posting pics?), you may be able to run a Hyperglide cassette that starts with a 12, 13 or 14 without swapping the freehub body. Shimano used the "6400" designation for several different hubs.
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The 600 freehub I had came with a UG/HG compatible freehub body. These can't take a HG-C cassette ie. 11 and 12t.
#8
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6400-series made both UG/HG compatible and UG-only compatible hubs. Generally, the 7-speed hubs were UG-only compatible. There is a number on the freehub. If your hub is 6400, then no. I read your original post as a 6400-series, but that may not be the case.. If it is a 6402, then you are in luck.
https://velobase.com/ViewComponent.as...9bef0&Enum=110
https://velobase.com/ViewComponent.as...9bef0&Enum=110
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WRT using an 11t cassette cog on pre-compact hubs, only the Dura-Ace freehub from the UG era ever provided a way to mount one, having a stepped-down special small-dia threading for the smallest cog.
Of the HG cassette hubs meant for a 12t smallest cog, it is very simple and fast to shorten the freehub body splines using a bench grinder, so that an 11t cog will fit properly and fully compress the remaining larger cogs.
I've been able to get the 11 t to fit on the earlier HG hubs by removing scarcely more than 1mm of length from the outer end of the splines.
A grinding wheel with sharp 90-degree corners makes this particularly easy, and leaves the freehub body still reverse-compatible with larger last-position cogs.
Changing the freehub body usually requires having the entire "stack" of parts from the right end of the axle, as an assembly and which are compatible with the new freehub body's sealing ring placement. Best to use a donor hub and pay very close attention to compatibility between the hubshell and new freehub body position!
There are a lot of ways to screw it up, hence I advise the easiest metho of grinding the splines shorter.
Of the HG cassette hubs meant for a 12t smallest cog, it is very simple and fast to shorten the freehub body splines using a bench grinder, so that an 11t cog will fit properly and fully compress the remaining larger cogs.
I've been able to get the 11 t to fit on the earlier HG hubs by removing scarcely more than 1mm of length from the outer end of the splines.
A grinding wheel with sharp 90-degree corners makes this particularly easy, and leaves the freehub body still reverse-compatible with larger last-position cogs.
Changing the freehub body usually requires having the entire "stack" of parts from the right end of the axle, as an assembly and which are compatible with the new freehub body's sealing ring placement. Best to use a donor hub and pay very close attention to compatibility between the hubshell and new freehub body position!
There are a lot of ways to screw it up, hence I advise the easiest metho of grinding the splines shorter.
Last edited by dddd; 01-10-14 at 11:17 PM.
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It depends on what comes after "64..." in the model number, but if it was running 7-sp, it's probably the older version.
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Can you post some pics of the hub in question? Especially the freehub body?
The best source for a freehub body is NOS hub from ebay. Look at RX 100 and up. You also need at a minimum the right/drive side cones and dustcap/seal to change from UG to HG.
The best source for a freehub body is NOS hub from ebay. Look at RX 100 and up. You also need at a minimum the right/drive side cones and dustcap/seal to change from UG to HG.
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#12
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As long as it's not Uniglide only, you can make it work by grinding off a bit of the splines as described above. I've done it with a Dremel before, it's really not much work due to the small amount of material removed.
If you have a Uniglide only body you're SOL and need to find a different body.
If you have a Uniglide only body you're SOL and need to find a different body.
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FWIW: one of my bikes has a 6400 cassette hub with a Hyperglide cassette body on it. I don't know which body it is (I found the hub as is used), but it seems to work fine. The bike doesn't get much use- it's a "hangar queen".
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Here are some picture of my 6400 freehub.
Untitled by vonfilm, on Flickr
Untitled by vonfilm, on Flickr
Untitled by vonfilm, on Flickr
On the upper left is the 7 speed cassette that I purchased by mistake. Upper right is the 7 speed freewheel that I subsequently purchased. Lower left is the cassette that I believe was originally mounted on the 6400 freehub at lower right.
What Shimano freehubs(especially vintage 105, Ultegra, and Dura_Ace) would work with this 11-28 7 speed ncassette?
Untitled by vonfilm, on Flickr
Untitled by vonfilm, on Flickr
Untitled by vonfilm, on Flickr
On the upper left is the 7 speed cassette that I purchased by mistake. Upper right is the 7 speed freewheel that I subsequently purchased. Lower left is the cassette that I believe was originally mounted on the 6400 freehub at lower right.
What Shimano freehubs(especially vintage 105, Ultegra, and Dura_Ace) would work with this 11-28 7 speed ncassette?
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That freewheel is for conventional threaded rear hubs. Won't work with your freehub.
You have an UG 6400 freehub. Options are to find an alternate rear freehub, or swap the freehub body. But since the rear hub isn't laced to a rim, you will need to do so before you have the leverage to wrench off the body and install the new one.
Later 640x freehubs, 105 and 105SC (105x) freehubs, RX100, RSX, Deore, Exage, FH40, should all have a model with HG 7-speed compatibility.
Dura-Ace 7400 is not compatible. They have a freehub body with a different smaller threaded cog/lockring diameter.
You have an UG 6400 freehub. Options are to find an alternate rear freehub, or swap the freehub body. But since the rear hub isn't laced to a rim, you will need to do so before you have the leverage to wrench off the body and install the new one.
Later 640x freehubs, 105 and 105SC (105x) freehubs, RX100, RSX, Deore, Exage, FH40, should all have a model with HG 7-speed compatibility.
Dura-Ace 7400 is not compatible. They have a freehub body with a different smaller threaded cog/lockring diameter.
Last edited by WNG; 01-14-14 at 11:48 AM.
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That cassette having an 11 tooth cog, you will need:
105: FH-5500 or newer
Ultegra: FH-6500 or newer
Dura-Ace: FH-7700 or newer.
I would be very careful about sourcing a freehub body from a dissimilar model of hub, even if you get all of the axle hardware and sealing ring, etc.
There are differences in terms of how far that different freehub bodies space the large cog from the spokes, and it's generally not correctable by adding or subtracting the large-ID washer that fits between the freehub body and the hubshell.
I've messed this up more than once, most recently when changing a 64XX-series 8-sp freehub body out for a titanium freehub body taken from a 7700 freehub.
105: FH-5500 or newer
Ultegra: FH-6500 or newer
Dura-Ace: FH-7700 or newer.
I would be very careful about sourcing a freehub body from a dissimilar model of hub, even if you get all of the axle hardware and sealing ring, etc.
There are differences in terms of how far that different freehub bodies space the large cog from the spokes, and it's generally not correctable by adding or subtracting the large-ID washer that fits between the freehub body and the hubshell.
I've messed this up more than once, most recently when changing a 64XX-series 8-sp freehub body out for a titanium freehub body taken from a 7700 freehub.
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That 6400 hub has a Uniglide freehub body and the Hyperglide cassette won't go on it - at least not as is. But you can grind down the fat tab on the 6 biggest cogs (easier if the cassette can come apart - but some are riveted together instead of using screws) and they should slide on. You would then need to use the smallest Uniglide cog from the old cassette to lock everything down since there are no threads for the Hyperglide lock-ring in the Uniglide freehub body. I have two wheels with UG freehubs and will probably do something like this once my supply of UG cogs is depleted.
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That reminds my of the 12-28 and 12-32t, 7-sp HG freewheels I built onto UG Dura-Ace freewheel bodies back in the '90's.
BikePro then started making them and selling them for about $135.
The two smallest cogs, the 12 and the 14t were both threaded, each to a different thread diameter. Later I had to grind some 6sp cogs thinner, the 14t cogs with a built-on spacer, after I ran out of 2nd-pos'n, 14t, 7sp cogs.
I'm still running a couple of those, one with RSX shifters and the other with 8s Ergo shifters and derailer. The 12-32t spent almost 10 years on my 1978 commuter UO9.
BikePro then started making them and selling them for about $135.
The two smallest cogs, the 12 and the 14t were both threaded, each to a different thread diameter. Later I had to grind some 6sp cogs thinner, the 14t cogs with a built-on spacer, after I ran out of 2nd-pos'n, 14t, 7sp cogs.
I'm still running a couple of those, one with RSX shifters and the other with 8s Ergo shifters and derailer. The 12-32t spent almost 10 years on my 1978 commuter UO9.