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  1. #1
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    85 Schwinn Traveler

    I have been using this site for advice without registering for kind of a long time, so I wanted to show what you guys helped me with.

    I greased the bearings and everything seems to ride really well. I understand that Ill probably get a lot of crap for it, but I just got the best deal I could off Craigslist and this is what I planned to do the whole time if I ended up with a road style bike (instead of something that already had a more upright handlebar). Everything is original besides one tube, two tires, brake pads, brake cables, brake cable housing, two cane creek crosstop inline brake levers mounted backwards with the cable under the bar tape.

    From what I researched (probably mainly here), the 85 was a good year. Chromoly american frame, weinmann alloy wheels, dia compe brakes. The bike weighed 48lbs with the baskets which are wald giants. I think that mightve been with the lock, which is a 3ft. chain with a heavy shrouded American Lock padlock. The bike was supposed to weigh 26lbs when it was stock, but I never weighed it.

    Btw I got the levers used for $5. And I also now have a pair of diacompe drop bar brake levers with the suicide levers if anybody is in need.

    Let me know what you think.



    Edit: As of 2/21/14
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by dmott; 02-21-14 at 02:38 PM.

  2. #2
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    You've got the utility thing going on- it'll do what you need it to do.

    If you're happy with it- awesome! 1985 was the apex of "touring" bikes, and the Traveler definitely benefitted from everything that was going on with all the Touring bikes.

    If I were to suggest anything, I would suggest not doing your handlebars like that. If you're going to run drop handlebars, run them correctly, if you want more upright bars, use upright bars. This is only my opinion- and since you asked- the upside down drops carry a very negative connotation to me.
    *Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Man Of The Year" Award*

  3. #3
    Senior Member Hudson308's Avatar
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    Yeah, you'll likely get little love here for the flipped bars... commonly referred to as "DUI bars". With that said, it's YOUR bike. If that configuration works for you, "sticks & stones", right? I accomplished a similar riding position on a similar bike ('84 LeTour Luxe) with a set of 3" low-risers. The upright position worked very well for me when I was dealing with some lower back issues. What's interesting is that since I was able to ride with no more discomfort I rode much more, and that helped my back. Now two of my current projects have drop bars.
    My next hurdle will be the funny little shoes with the clips on the bottom...

    0928131822c.jpg
    Last edited by Hudson308; 02-11-14 at 11:32 AM.
    "I'd rather have what I don't need than need what I don't have." -Fred Sanford

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    I tried to post something but it didn't show, I'll try again.

    i knew the bum bar hate is strong around here, but I was curious if mine would be a little more accepted. I at least took the time to flip them around and not just spin them up. I agree the true bum bar just spun up with brakes in the same spot is very ugly and dangerous in traffic, or steep hills unless you're careful. I will post a picture when I get back to my computer that will probably actually get people mad, it was really ugly and difficult to brake.

    i don't even get any bonus points for the $5 inline brake that I mounted backwards so I could run the cable under te tape?? With the lever where you can actually reach it btw.
    Last edited by dmott; 02-11-14 at 11:43 AM. Reason: Typo

  5. #5
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    And to be honest I usually don't like the riser bars on this sstyle bike but yours looks really nice.

    Not that it matters, but this bike is a grocery getter (obvious?) and I live in a pretty flat beach community.

  6. #6
    Senior Member 3speedslow's Avatar
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    dmott,

    Bonus points freely given. It is your bike and as such do what you want. Utility set up is right ! What are you going to be hauling?

    I have love for the mid to late Schwinn bikes. Have a few and really enjoy them.

    Enjoy yours !
    "Waiting for the crash"

  7. #7
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    Thanks. I guess in a way I'm also asking to make sure there's nothing major I'm missing, like they use some sort of crazy tube for the handlebars that's only strong when it's pulled on the way it's supposed to be (which would be the exact opposite of the way I'm using them).

    This bike has already picked up a few six packs along with some food for one big dinner, and one 12 pack and one dog in the front, all three separate occasions. I've only had the bike for a week, but I needed something to test the back baskets, and something to drink while I put on the front basket, so that's why I needed 24 beers.

    Im excited to really carry some stuff, but the front basket is mounted to p clips, so it's not the best. It definitely seems super sturdy, and I can't get it to budge, but I don't like have any doubts about something 1/2" from my front spokes. I do have "lawyer tabs" so they prevent the p clips from sliding down.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmott View Post

    i knew the bum bar hate is strong around here, but I was curious if mine would be a little more accepted.

    i don't even get any bonus points for the $5 inline brake that I mounted backwards so I could run the cable under te tape?
    Nope.

    I don't mean to be rude or insensitive or in any way hurt your feelings or make you feel unwelcome.

    Still looks like you lost your drivers license. Sorry.
    *Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Man Of The Year" Award*

  9. #9
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    The only issue I can see with those bars is their width. You might find that with the front basket loaded down you need a wider bar for more leverage. Wald makes some cool cruiser bars if you find the need to change them.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Golden Boy View Post
    Nope.

    I don't mean to be rude or insensitive or in any way hurt your feelings or make you feel unwelcome.

    Still looks like you lost your drivers license. Sorry.
    Haha it's ok, im sitting in my truck dreading the drive back to my office (yes drive not ride haha).

    thats answers my question which I asked in my post which somehow didn't make it, do people not like it just cause "that's not how you do it?" Or just cause the bum bar/ DUI bar thing? Golden boy seems to be in the DUI bar category.

    I do think some nice upright style bars like I've seen on old Raleigh sports would be nicer, but this is purely just to keep it cheap and end up with a more upright position, especially since I found the used 23.8mm crosstop lever (24mm?) for $5.

    and I have to say again that I don't think a person would flip them up and around, requiring moving the levers and removing and retaping if they were "forced to ride a bike."

  11. #11
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    Lets see if I can get this to work from my phone.

    before:


    After:


    Yeah it's a lot of electrical tape but I wanted it wherever I clamped baskets or levers, and also around both ends of the bar tape (since I couldn't fit the bar tape under the new levers therefore I couldn't make it to the bar plugs to hold the bar tape).

  12. #12
    Ride More seedsbelize's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmott View Post
    Haha it's ok, im sitting in my truck dreading the drive back to my office (yes drive not ride haha).

    thats answers my question which I asked in my post which somehow didn't make it, do people not like it just cause "that's not how you do it?" Or just cause the bum bar/ DUI bar thing? Golden boy seems to be in the DUI bar category.

    I do think some nice upright style bars like I've seen on old Raleigh sports would be nicer, but this is purely just to keep it cheap and end up with a more upright position, especially since I found the used 23.8mm crosstop lever (24mm?) for $5.

    and I have to say again that I don't think a person would flip them up and around, requiring moving the levers and removing and retaping if they were "forced to ride a bike."
    Maybe Golden Boy is speaking from experience. I like the bars that way. But then i'm a bit of a fred. Next thing you know you'll be taking care to line up the tire label with the valve. It's a slippery slope.

    Life is is too short to care what others think of your bike.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by seedsbelize View Post
    Maybe Golden Boy is speaking from experience. I like the bars that way. But then i'm a bit of a fred. Next thing you know you'll be taking care to line up the tire label with the valve. It's a slippery slope.
    Hahaha good point. Either way it doesnt really matter to me what other people think. I was trying to find some bars like this on bikes and didnt have any success. I did see some bike from the 30's or something that somebody's grandpa gave them that had the bars like mine, not just turned up but flipped over too. I liked that look and was surprised that when I tried, it looked about 100 times better than regular bum/DUI bars and still gave me the position I wanted (or at least a lot closer to it).

    Tonight I will bring some Mothers Aluminum polish and go to work on it. Based on what Ive read here, Im hoping the whole bike will look like chrome (besides the frame) when Im done. Looking at the specs on the 85 Traveler it seems everysingle thing that isnt painted is alloy. The only thing Im thinking might be steel, besides the frame, are the quick release tabs. They are pretty shiny and I believe are rusting, not turning that aluminum white color, so that would make them chrome plated, correct?

  14. #14
    Senior Member 3speedslow's Avatar
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    Yes, chrome plated. You may use WD-40 and #0000 steel wool to lightly shine those QR levers up.

    Have you sufficiently lubed the chain and greased the bearings ?
    "Waiting for the crash"

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3speedslow View Post
    Yes, chrome plated. You may use WD-40 and #0000 steel wool to lightly shine those QR levers up.

    Have you sufficiently lubed the chain and greased the bearings ?
    The only bearings that I havent greased are the headset and pedals. With all of the other bearings I was very surprised that the grease was still there and still "greasy," which was surprising because everything was original, including tires and tubes (and the back tire was all ripped up so I know it hasnt been ridden in a while). Ive read here that the grease can dry up pretty badly in these older bikes.

    I really should do the headset too but seeing how good the other bearings were I dont feel like there is a huge rush. Everything feels smooth in the headset, no grinding or noises and it isnt loose.

    I took your guys advice and used Simple green to clean the frame, and mothers polish on the alloy parts. I will post the pic later of the bike in th exact same position. You cant tell a huge difference in the photo, but in person the bike looks pretty damn new. I think the next step would be soaking steel parts in the oaxalic acid or whatever its called (I realized its not just the QR levers, but also the stem shifters and their mounting setup, pedals, and probably something else Im not remembering. All that stuff seems like it would be way too hard to try to clean while it is on the bike.

  16. #16
    Senior Member inkandsilver's Avatar
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    I personally don't think I would set my bike up that way, but I love improvisation. I think as long as it's safe to ride go for it. It looks fun -- I love the huge baskets. I do agree with likebike that you may end up wanting wider bars to help with wrestling the front end when you have an assload of beer in there.
    197X Raleigh Grand Prix (beater) -- 1977 Centurion Semi-Pro (all-arounder) -- 1987 Schwinn High Sierra (dropbar conversion) -- 1996 Trek 930 (MTB) -- 2011 Jamis Coda (supercommuter)

  17. #17
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    I definitely understand wanting to keep it cheap and budget. but a set of wald bars should cost you twenty bucks at your lbs...

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    Quote Originally Posted by inkandsilver View Post
    I personally don't think I would set my bike up that way, but I love improvisation. I think as long as it's safe to ride go for it. It looks fun -- I love the huge baskets. I do agree with likebike that you may end up wanting wider bars to help with wrestling the front end when you have an assload of beer in there.
    Yeah Im thinking I will probably try to get most of the heavy stuff on the back, I can just use the bungess and put it on top of the "rack" which is part of the rear Wald baskets. I do think you are both right though, the bars are more narrow than the edges of the basket, so I would have leverage working against me.

    Quote Originally Posted by AlTheKiller View Post
    I definitely understand wanting to keep it cheap and budget. but a set of wald bars should cost you twenty bucks at your lbs...
    I haven't really spent much time looking for bars since I found the used levers at a LBS. Wald makes an upright bar with 25.4 clamp size and 23.8mm tubing?

    I dont know if links are against the rules, but the style of the Velo Orange Montmartre Handlebar is what I would probably prefer. I just don't want to spend $35 plus tax just to have a bike thats a little better looking. And the fact that the bars are original now is kinda cool too, even if I am using them upside down and backwards.

    But for $20, if I could get some Wald bars, spend the other $20 on a decent twelve pack so I cant complain about the time and installation, it might be worth it.

    Are Wald bars made in America like the baskets?

  19. #19
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    Well I dont want to waste anybodys time, because google and this site already answered my questions. The Wald sebsite says the bars are clamp size of 25.4mm, perfect, but the OD of the rest of the bar is 22.2, so i will need some new brake levers. I was thinking some electric tape, or maybe a strip of aluminum can then electric tape. I just don't want to have any play in the mount for the lever for my brakes. Maybe the shop that had the used crosstop levers will have a used old mtb or bmx lever I could pick up for another $5.

  20. #20
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    hopefully these pics arent too huge...

    dirty:


    Clean:

  21. #21
    Must... ride... more... Phil_gretz's Avatar
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    If I drank 24 beers while working on installing the front basket, two certainties would result:

    (1) the basket would remain un- or only partially-installed, and

    (2) I would be found unconscious beside the bike

    Hopefully, I wouldn't be dead...

    Also, I like the bike. It makes me happy.
    Last edited by Phil_gretz; 02-12-14 at 12:35 PM. Reason: addition

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil_gretz View Post
    If I drank 24 beers while working on installing the front basket, two certainties would result:

    (1) the basket would remain un- or only partially-installed, and

    (2) I would be found unconscious beside the bike

    Hopefully, I wouldn't be dead...

    Also, I like the bike. It makes me happy.
    HAHAHA, I usually make it to bed before the unconsciousness happens, but I have definitely woken up to a partially installed basket or partially installed/adjusted whatever. But 12 of the beers were testing out the back baskets and drink while working on the front, then 12 more to test and celebrate after installing the front basket (over two.... or more nights), I worded it wrong earlier.

    Anyway, the hate wasnt even as strong as I thought it would've been, but now I feel like a moron for wasting my own time.

    I was happy with my funky setup, but had no idea Wald bars were so cheap. The same shop that sold me some Wald ape-hangers for like $25 (I think) just got in a shipment last night with some Wald 867 bars that he is selling for $12.99. That is the exact style I wanted, I think it will look nice and should get the posture I want. The only negative is they are only 20" wide and my basket is 21" wide. I guess as long as I have enough leverage to control the bike, having the bars more narrow than the basket will be nice, knowing if the basket fits through, the bike and I will too.

    Add in some used levers at $5, cables at whatever they cost since the used levers will be mtb or bmx and I have road cables, reusing of the bar tape for grips and some beer and I think my total is up to $40. I guess that is pretty reasonable considering for some reason I was thinking just the new bars alone would cost that (Velo Orange) before levers, cables, and the mandatory beer.

  23. #23
    Senior Member Hudson308's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmott View Post
    The same shop that sold me some Wald ape-hangers for like $25 (I think) just got in a shipment last night with some Wald 867 bars that he is selling for $12.99. That is the exact style I wanted, I think it will look nice and should get the posture I want. The only negative is they are only 20" wide and my basket is 21" wide. I guess as long as I have enough leverage to control the bike, having the bars more narrow than the basket will be nice, knowing if the basket fits through, the bike and I will too.
    Don't be too hard on yourself for having to learn by your mistakes... those are the lessons you'll remember most. As far as leverage/width concerns, you'll find that wrist angle & position are just as imortant as width. You'll have ALOT more leverage/stability with those Wald cruiser bars than you do with your current setup.
    "I'd rather have what I don't need than need what I don't have." -Fred Sanford

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hudson308 View Post
    Don't be too hard on yourself for having to learn by your mistakes... those are the lessons you'll remember most. As far as leverage/width concerns, you'll find that wrist angle & position are just as imortant as width. You'll have ALOT more leverage/stability with those Wald cruiser bars than you do with your current setup.
    Thanks. Yeah Im thinking this will be my last real change before just polishing aluminum when I have time. I originally wanted to polish the rims too but I didnt want to get a bunch of polish through the holes for the spokes, then eventually on the tape, tubes and tires.

    Does anybody polish their wheels on the bike? What about hubs? Hubs seem even more difficult.

  25. #25
    Senior Member Hudson308's Avatar
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    I wouldn't recommend polishing the rims; the sides are the braking surface, and polishing just the spoke surface might look incomplete. You'll likely be surprised how well a bit of mineral spirits on a paper towel will work on the hubs and rims, however. Makes a huge difference in appearance. Works great for the brake calipers, too.
    "I'd rather have what I don't need than need what I don't have." -Fred Sanford

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