Perfecting a Refurbished Univega Mixte
02-13-14, 01:21 PM
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Perfecting a Refurbished Univega Mixte
I've decided to make an 80's Univega mixte my new all around bike that gets me to work every day and can be an introduction to more recreational riding. This bike will replace the 70's Maruishi 3 Speed I've been riding for years, which is very heavy, still has steel wheels, and is in need of a significant overhaul. I've done lots of research, (see this thread https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...xte?highlight= and this thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...tes?highlight=), and finally settled on this one after discovering a LBS that sells only refurbished vintage bikes. For context, I commute daily from DC to Virginia 4 or 5 miles each way, and am looking to add some longer but still short rides on the weekends on trails around the city.
This is a picture of the mixte as it is now (sorry it's a terrible photo). It has a new wheelset with 27inch wheels, new 27 1 1/4 inch tires, and has been fully tuned up. I could ride it out of there right now, but I want to make it right for me. The mixte thread has given me some great eye candy and ideas, but I still need to put something into practice.
In general, the main changes I want/need to make are:
-Replacing the drop bars with upright bars
-Adding a back rack and potentially some sort of front carrying capacity
-Fenders
-Mounting lights
-Getting a nicer saddle
The folks at the LBS are great, and I'm sure they'll have a lot of helpful input. But I've been doing tons of research on components and options and wanted to get input from all of you on what has worked well.
-For handlebars, I'm very much intrigued by lovelybike's setup on her custom mixte https://www.flickr.com/photos/lovely_...n/photostream/ and the way she had her vintage Motobecane set up: https://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2010/...elleville.html. Her description of looking for a way to set up a mixte so that your hands are at a similar level to the way they would be when resting on the top part of drop bars really resonates with me. Since most of what I do is city riding, I definitely want to be upright enough to look around me, but not so upright that I lose the fun and speed the I feel on the bike as it is set up right now. I don't feel comfortable in the drops at all, so when I've been test riding it I've stayed on top (using the suicide levers), and I didn't feel too leaned forward.
Will the porteur bars come too far back? Are the belleville bars too narrow? What about upside down north roads? Or should I just try it with a normal north roads-ish bar set at or below the height of my seat?
I'm thinking that these would make sense with the inverse brake levers, but if I want to be holding the front of the bars often, then maybe the guidonnet levers make most sense as you could brake from both the forward and more swept back positions. https://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2009...et-levers.html. Any strong preferences/advice?
I'd like to wrap the bars to allow for multiple hand positions in a way that would match a brooks antique brown or honey saddle (leaning towards honey). Would cork wraps with shellac work?
-Racks: I commute now with a front basket for my purse, and a rear rack with one Minnehaha pannier https://www.bikebagshop.com/banjo-bro...FREaOgodzxcA3w. I'd like to set this bike up with a rear rack, continue to use the Minnehaha pannier on one side, and attach a folding wald basket on the other side. I often stop to grocery shop on the way home and am suddenly in need of additional carrying capacity. Is there any reason that shouldn't work? And do people have recommendations for which rack? I want something silver colored, doesn't have to be huge carrying capacity but decent enough to not worry about two panniers/pannier and basket full of groceries. The LBS has offered to maybe set it up with a vintage rear rack that they have lying around from other bikes, which seems like maybe the best way to go?
For the front, I don't really like the idea of a big wald basket like I have on my current bike, but I'm nervous to lose the front storage options. I like having my purse there so I can keep an eye on it and so I can grab things out of it if I need to. Any women who have figured this problem out? If I do want to set up a front rack/basket, it doesn't seem like there are many braze ons to connect it to, so what's the best way to go?
-Fenders: I was thinking of the Velo Orange smooth ones in aluminum or stainless, not sure what the pros and cons are. I'll leave it to the LBS to determine whether they can fit, but is there any reason you can't have both a rack and fenders like this if you only have one of the little eyelet holes on the frame? https://store.velo-orange.com/index.p...h-fenders.html
I've also made due without fenders since the originals on the Maruishi became more of a problem than they were worth (always rubbing and bent no matter what), and have been okay with the rear rack and front basket acting as some protection. Should I just make a go without them?
-Lights: I have a pretty bright front light: https://www.planetpedals.com/itemdeta...FY07MgodGDoAZw that doesn't work very well mounted on the handlebars. It's always pointed off to one side, angled too far to the ground, and drifts while I'm moving. What would be the best way to go about mounting it on the new bike?
I have a cheap rear blinky on the seat post now, and it's always winding up pointing down or obscured by my coat so I'm not visible. Is there a recommendation on a good rear light that can be mounted on a rear rack?
-Saddle and style: I'm thinking that since I'm going to make this be my perfect bike, I'd like to go with a Brooks saddle (if I can keep it from getting stolen!). I've read into the differences between the Flyer and a B67, and while I like the idea of the Flyer with this bike, I'm wondering if it will be too upright for that once I've switched the drop bars to saddle height upright bars. Given I currently ride on a vinyl mattress saddle, I feel like the B67 would be more comparable to what I'm accustomed to.
Wow, so many questions and such a long post. I hope anyone has kept reading to the end. I'd love any advice on any of these topics. It's so exciting to be getting started on this, but also daunting. I want to get it just right, but I don't want to spend so long perfecting it that I don't get to ride it for ages.
This is a picture of the mixte as it is now (sorry it's a terrible photo). It has a new wheelset with 27inch wheels, new 27 1 1/4 inch tires, and has been fully tuned up. I could ride it out of there right now, but I want to make it right for me. The mixte thread has given me some great eye candy and ideas, but I still need to put something into practice.
In general, the main changes I want/need to make are:
-Replacing the drop bars with upright bars
-Adding a back rack and potentially some sort of front carrying capacity
-Fenders
-Mounting lights
-Getting a nicer saddle
The folks at the LBS are great, and I'm sure they'll have a lot of helpful input. But I've been doing tons of research on components and options and wanted to get input from all of you on what has worked well.
-For handlebars, I'm very much intrigued by lovelybike's setup on her custom mixte https://www.flickr.com/photos/lovely_...n/photostream/ and the way she had her vintage Motobecane set up: https://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2010/...elleville.html. Her description of looking for a way to set up a mixte so that your hands are at a similar level to the way they would be when resting on the top part of drop bars really resonates with me. Since most of what I do is city riding, I definitely want to be upright enough to look around me, but not so upright that I lose the fun and speed the I feel on the bike as it is set up right now. I don't feel comfortable in the drops at all, so when I've been test riding it I've stayed on top (using the suicide levers), and I didn't feel too leaned forward.
Will the porteur bars come too far back? Are the belleville bars too narrow? What about upside down north roads? Or should I just try it with a normal north roads-ish bar set at or below the height of my seat?
I'm thinking that these would make sense with the inverse brake levers, but if I want to be holding the front of the bars often, then maybe the guidonnet levers make most sense as you could brake from both the forward and more swept back positions. https://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2009...et-levers.html. Any strong preferences/advice?
I'd like to wrap the bars to allow for multiple hand positions in a way that would match a brooks antique brown or honey saddle (leaning towards honey). Would cork wraps with shellac work?
-Racks: I commute now with a front basket for my purse, and a rear rack with one Minnehaha pannier https://www.bikebagshop.com/banjo-bro...FREaOgodzxcA3w. I'd like to set this bike up with a rear rack, continue to use the Minnehaha pannier on one side, and attach a folding wald basket on the other side. I often stop to grocery shop on the way home and am suddenly in need of additional carrying capacity. Is there any reason that shouldn't work? And do people have recommendations for which rack? I want something silver colored, doesn't have to be huge carrying capacity but decent enough to not worry about two panniers/pannier and basket full of groceries. The LBS has offered to maybe set it up with a vintage rear rack that they have lying around from other bikes, which seems like maybe the best way to go?
For the front, I don't really like the idea of a big wald basket like I have on my current bike, but I'm nervous to lose the front storage options. I like having my purse there so I can keep an eye on it and so I can grab things out of it if I need to. Any women who have figured this problem out? If I do want to set up a front rack/basket, it doesn't seem like there are many braze ons to connect it to, so what's the best way to go?
-Fenders: I was thinking of the Velo Orange smooth ones in aluminum or stainless, not sure what the pros and cons are. I'll leave it to the LBS to determine whether they can fit, but is there any reason you can't have both a rack and fenders like this if you only have one of the little eyelet holes on the frame? https://store.velo-orange.com/index.p...h-fenders.html
I've also made due without fenders since the originals on the Maruishi became more of a problem than they were worth (always rubbing and bent no matter what), and have been okay with the rear rack and front basket acting as some protection. Should I just make a go without them?
-Lights: I have a pretty bright front light: https://www.planetpedals.com/itemdeta...FY07MgodGDoAZw that doesn't work very well mounted on the handlebars. It's always pointed off to one side, angled too far to the ground, and drifts while I'm moving. What would be the best way to go about mounting it on the new bike?
I have a cheap rear blinky on the seat post now, and it's always winding up pointing down or obscured by my coat so I'm not visible. Is there a recommendation on a good rear light that can be mounted on a rear rack?
-Saddle and style: I'm thinking that since I'm going to make this be my perfect bike, I'd like to go with a Brooks saddle (if I can keep it from getting stolen!). I've read into the differences between the Flyer and a B67, and while I like the idea of the Flyer with this bike, I'm wondering if it will be too upright for that once I've switched the drop bars to saddle height upright bars. Given I currently ride on a vinyl mattress saddle, I feel like the B67 would be more comparable to what I'm accustomed to.
Wow, so many questions and such a long post. I hope anyone has kept reading to the end. I'd love any advice on any of these topics. It's so exciting to be getting started on this, but also daunting. I want to get it just right, but I don't want to spend so long perfecting it that I don't get to ride it for ages.
02-13-14, 02:07 PM
#2
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Oh dear. When you ask for opinions, everyone has one (and a belly button too). But you asked - so here you are:
Bars - I would go with north roads, they work rightside-up or upside-down.
Grips - cork or rubber, and wrap the rest of the bar if you like.
Fenders - VO metal fenders are nice, but I would use Planet Bike or SKS plastics.
Saddle - if you can't keep your bike in sight, don't buy a Brooks or any other expensive saddle. If you must have a Brooks, put a quick release clamp on the bike and take the saddle & post with you when you leave the bike. There are cheap comfortable saddles that are less likely to attract thieves.
Lights - a fork mounted front light gets the light down to the road. I would mount my rear light on the end of the rear rack.
Rear rack - it depends on the weight you may carry. Your LBS should be able to help there (mounting points may limit your choices).
Front rack/basket - I don't use one, so I disqualify myself on this question.
I think you have a nice bike.
Bars - I would go with north roads, they work rightside-up or upside-down.
Grips - cork or rubber, and wrap the rest of the bar if you like.
Fenders - VO metal fenders are nice, but I would use Planet Bike or SKS plastics.
Saddle - if you can't keep your bike in sight, don't buy a Brooks or any other expensive saddle. If you must have a Brooks, put a quick release clamp on the bike and take the saddle & post with you when you leave the bike. There are cheap comfortable saddles that are less likely to attract thieves.
Lights - a fork mounted front light gets the light down to the road. I would mount my rear light on the end of the rear rack.
Rear rack - it depends on the weight you may carry. Your LBS should be able to help there (mounting points may limit your choices).
Front rack/basket - I don't use one, so I disqualify myself on this question.
I think you have a nice bike.
02-13-14, 02:53 PM
#3
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Breaks - If going with reverse levers look at SOMA
Rack - Small front and rear newer light weight models if you can afford them (the vintage racks a heavy)
Fenders - Velo Orange Dimpled (the smooth ones look nicer but are not as strong)
Lights - 120 Lumen Any type you can easily remove or mount on your helmet and uses regular batteries (I'm a forehead light man)
Saddle - Brooks or Gyes B17 type
Rem: You don't have to do this all at one time - I would start with the bars and rear rack then go from there...
DON'T FORGET THE 40 POUNDS OF LOCKS CHAIN AND BARS you will have to carry to secure this beautiful bike...
Good Luck and Fun Fun Fun...
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No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
Last edited by zandoval; 02-13-14 at 02:58 PM.
02-13-14, 03:33 PM
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Thanks for sending advice, I knew I'd probably get too many opinions.
A few questions though: why do you prefer the north roads over the porteur or belleville? I'm just curious, since north roads-ish bars are the only ones I've tried on my old three speed, so I don't have a point of comparison.
Why would you use planet bike or SKS over the metal ones?
What cheap, comfortable saddles would you recommend that would still have a brown leather look to them? And are comfortable for rides longer than my 5 mile commute? When I ride my current bike more than 10 miles in one day, I feel it! I suppose the one that is on there looks brown leatherish, but it's very fake leather looking and feeling.
Glad to hear you think it's a nice bike!
Oh dear. When you ask for opinions, everyone has one (and a belly button too). But you asked - so here you are:
Bars - I would go with north roads, they work rightside-up or upside-down.
Grips - cork or rubber, and wrap the rest of the bar if you like.
Fenders - VO metal fenders are nice, but I would use Planet Bike or SKS plastics.
Saddle - if you can't keep your bike in sight, don't buy a Brooks or any other expensive saddle. If you must have a Brooks, put a quick release clamp on the bike and take the saddle & post with you when you leave the bike. There are cheap comfortable saddles that are less likely to attract thieves.
Lights - a fork mounted front light gets the light down to the road. I would mount my rear light on the end of the rear rack.
Rear rack - it depends on the weight you may carry. Your LBS should be able to help there (mounting points may limit your choices).
Front rack/basket - I don't use one, so I disqualify myself on this question.
I think you have a nice bike.
Bars - I would go with north roads, they work rightside-up or upside-down.
Grips - cork or rubber, and wrap the rest of the bar if you like.
Fenders - VO metal fenders are nice, but I would use Planet Bike or SKS plastics.
Saddle - if you can't keep your bike in sight, don't buy a Brooks or any other expensive saddle. If you must have a Brooks, put a quick release clamp on the bike and take the saddle & post with you when you leave the bike. There are cheap comfortable saddles that are less likely to attract thieves.
Lights - a fork mounted front light gets the light down to the road. I would mount my rear light on the end of the rear rack.
Rear rack - it depends on the weight you may carry. Your LBS should be able to help there (mounting points may limit your choices).
Front rack/basket - I don't use one, so I disqualify myself on this question.
I think you have a nice bike.
Why would you use planet bike or SKS over the metal ones?
What cheap, comfortable saddles would you recommend that would still have a brown leather look to them? And are comfortable for rides longer than my 5 mile commute? When I ride my current bike more than 10 miles in one day, I feel it! I suppose the one that is on there looks brown leatherish, but it's very fake leather looking and feeling.
Glad to hear you think it's a nice bike!
02-13-14, 03:39 PM
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Bars - North Roads also get the stem up a little higher for comfort
Breaks - If going with reverse levers look at SOMA
Rack - Small front and rear newer light weight models if you can afford them (the vintage racks a heavy)
Fenders - Velo Orange Dimpled (the smooth ones look nicer but are not as strong)
Lights - 120 Lumen Any type you can easily remove or mount on your helmet and uses regular batteries (I'm a forehead light man)
Saddle - Brooks or Gyes B17 type
Rem: You don't have to do this all at one time - I would start with the bars and rear rack then go from there...
DON'T FORGET THE 40 POUNDS OF LOCKS CHAIN AND BARS you will have to carry to secure this beautiful bike...
Good Luck and Fun Fun Fun...
Breaks - If going with reverse levers look at SOMA
Rack - Small front and rear newer light weight models if you can afford them (the vintage racks a heavy)
Fenders - Velo Orange Dimpled (the smooth ones look nicer but are not as strong)
Lights - 120 Lumen Any type you can easily remove or mount on your helmet and uses regular batteries (I'm a forehead light man)
Saddle - Brooks or Gyes B17 type
Rem: You don't have to do this all at one time - I would start with the bars and rear rack then go from there...
DON'T FORGET THE 40 POUNDS OF LOCKS CHAIN AND BARS you will have to carry to secure this beautiful bike...
Good Luck and Fun Fun Fun...
Question about your preference for North Roads: How does my wish to be a bit more aggressive, bent forward than I would be on my current upright bike fit with getting the stem up higher for comfort. Does stem height not correspond to handlebar height? (I'm new to all of this!)
Which newer rear rack would you recommend? I'd looked at the Soma deco.
And why do you prefer the Soma reverse levers to the Dia Compes or the Tektros?
02-13-14, 03:41 PM
#6
Still learning
Visit velo-orange.com, they have all the accessories to make your Univega more Velouria like. I think they run a warehouse sale in early April and are nearby in Annapolis.
Here is a decent low cost saddle.
https://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...0mm-390g-brown
Here is a decent low cost saddle.
https://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...0mm-390g-brown
Last edited by oddjob2; 02-13-14 at 06:38 PM.
02-13-14, 04:44 PM
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Bars - the 2 bars that you mentioned are relatively flat. One of them has only 1.6cm of rise/drop, and the other is dead flat. A north road will have more options. You could change the stem to one with more or less drop or rise. Or (I utter an abomination here) get an adjustable stem.
Fenders - the new plastic fenders are great. If deformed for a while, they seem to have no memory and revert back to their original shape. SKS makes a reasonable facsimile of an aluminum fender with their chromo-plastic line.
Saddles - Everyone's bottom is different. Oddjob recommended Velo Orange to you (not just for saddles), and they have a new Micro-Fiber saddle that interests me. I think you have already visited their site re handlebars. They deserve a visit.
Good luck.
Fenders - the new plastic fenders are great. If deformed for a while, they seem to have no memory and revert back to their original shape. SKS makes a reasonable facsimile of an aluminum fender with their chromo-plastic line.
Saddles - Everyone's bottom is different. Oddjob recommended Velo Orange to you (not just for saddles), and they have a new Micro-Fiber saddle that interests me. I think you have already visited their site re handlebars. They deserve a visit.
Good luck.
02-13-14, 04:50 PM
#8
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I have a 1985 Nishiki Riviera Mixte which had all original components. I switched out the handlebars to the VO Porteur handlebars and used Tektro inverse brake levers. My shifter levers are stem mount so that wasn't an issue. I also bought a Nitto Technomic stem to get the bars up a little higher. I used Fizik Microtek bar wrap to wrap the entire bars so my hands will be comfortable no matter where I put them. I also put on a Brooks B17 and some VO City Pedals. All in all its a great ride. The handlebars don't come back too far for me. I have Soma "Oxford" bars on a different bike and I find them a bit wide. Good luck and have fun!
02-13-14, 05:40 PM
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I use both DiaComp and Tektro reverse levers on my bikes, three of which use Bull Horn handle bars for comfort - The Somas just look better that's all...
Your putting together a great looking functional bike - Remember its for your personal comfort too...
02-14-14, 09:54 AM
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Keep open to different ideas and think about your riding style first and foremost.
That said, I have been setting up a few Mixtes in the last year or so and can relate my experiences. My own 1983 Raleigh Sprite Mixte has some alloy north roads style bars, a Serfas Saddle (the Serfas are comfortable and reasonably priced) and the original Pletscher rear rack.
The Sekine SHL 270 Mixte was refurbished to sell, but I have not listed it yet. The original owner had changed to north road style bars when the bike was new!
For bars, Mrs. browngw likes the "European curve" alloy bar with the ergo grips. The bar has no rise, but places her hands at a comfortable angle.
Make sure brake levers are applicable to the type of brake. Levers for sidepull and centerpull can be different. The Sekine has generic LBS levers for Vee brakes on centerpulls and works well.
A third mixte is underway, a 1976 Raleigh Record 10speed dropbar bike that had seen better days. It is being rebuilt as a 5 speed thumb shifted town bike with upright bars.
I have installed Planet Bike Cascadia fenders on three bikes and find them well constructed, SS hardware, and easy to fit. At $29, hard to beat.
That said, I have been setting up a few Mixtes in the last year or so and can relate my experiences. My own 1983 Raleigh Sprite Mixte has some alloy north roads style bars, a Serfas Saddle (the Serfas are comfortable and reasonably priced) and the original Pletscher rear rack.
The Sekine SHL 270 Mixte was refurbished to sell, but I have not listed it yet. The original owner had changed to north road style bars when the bike was new!
For bars, Mrs. browngw likes the "European curve" alloy bar with the ergo grips. The bar has no rise, but places her hands at a comfortable angle.
Make sure brake levers are applicable to the type of brake. Levers for sidepull and centerpull can be different. The Sekine has generic LBS levers for Vee brakes on centerpulls and works well.
A third mixte is underway, a 1976 Raleigh Record 10speed dropbar bike that had seen better days. It is being rebuilt as a 5 speed thumb shifted town bike with upright bars.
I have installed Planet Bike Cascadia fenders on three bikes and find them well constructed, SS hardware, and easy to fit. At $29, hard to beat.
__________________
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
Last edited by browngw; 02-14-14 at 10:00 AM. Reason: info on fenders
02-14-14, 10:35 AM
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I picked up a Univega mixte for my missus a few years back & have continued to modify it for her.
I don't think it currently it has any of the original parts on it.
It is the Sport Tour model and she has quite a few miles on it now and it seems to be working well for her.
It was a fun project and there are still some changes I want to make to 'dress it up' a bit more for her.
Good luck on the modifications to yours. You should get many great miles of riding on it.
I don't think it currently it has any of the original parts on it.
It is the Sport Tour model and she has quite a few miles on it now and it seems to be working well for her.
It was a fun project and there are still some changes I want to make to 'dress it up' a bit more for her.
Good luck on the modifications to yours. You should get many great miles of riding on it.
02-24-14, 01:01 PM
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Thanks for all the inputs and advice.
Here it is! I've taken the leap and am actually using it with the drop bars. To my surprise, I really like them. I've got it set up with planet bike fenders, a vintage rack, a battery operated taillight mounted to the rack, and a wald folding basket on one side. I'm still getting used to the bike, and still may make some more changes (the saddle, potentially a front rack or basket), but I'm having a great time!
Here it is! I've taken the leap and am actually using it with the drop bars. To my surprise, I really like them. I've got it set up with planet bike fenders, a vintage rack, a battery operated taillight mounted to the rack, and a wald folding basket on one side. I'm still getting used to the bike, and still may make some more changes (the saddle, potentially a front rack or basket), but I'm having a great time!
02-24-14, 01:08 PM
#13
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Looking very good, Leona. Glad you are having fun in the process.
You can post your progress in the mixte thread, too. Giving back, as it were.
Cheers!
You can post your progress in the mixte thread, too. Giving back, as it were.
Cheers!
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(replacing stolen 1981 TR Everest custom)
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1985 ALAN Record (Glued & Screwed. A gift.)
1959 Hilton Wrigley Connoisseur (my favorite!)
1963 Hetchins Mountain King
1971 Gitane Tour de France (original owner)
* 1971 Gitane Super Corsa (crashed)
* rebuilt as upright cruiser
1971 Gitane Super Corsa #2 (sweet replacement)
1980 Ritchey Road Touring (The Grail Bike)
1982 Tom Ritchey Everest
(replacing stolen 1981 TR Everest custom)
1982 Tom Ritchey McKinley (touring pickup truck)
1985 ALAN Record (Glued & Screwed. A gift.)
02-24-14, 01:34 PM
#14
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Thanks for cheering me on through it LeicaLad! Which mixte thread? The one I started about the Schwinn mixte? Or the "show us your mixte"? I'm not sure if it's ready for mixte prime time yet...
02-24-14, 08:30 PM
#15
Senior Member
The show-off thread. Of course it's ready.
We love the before, during, after, and even more after shots.
It's all about pleasure in the progress.
Cheers!
We love the before, during, after, and even more after shots.
It's all about pleasure in the progress.
Cheers!
__________________
1959 Hilton Wrigley Connoisseur (my favorite!)
1963 Hetchins Mountain King
1971 Gitane Tour de France (original owner)
* 1971 Gitane Super Corsa (crashed)
* rebuilt as upright cruiser
1971 Gitane Super Corsa #2 (sweet replacement)
1980 Ritchey Road Touring (The Grail Bike)
1982 Tom Ritchey Everest
(replacing stolen 1981 TR Everest custom)
1982 Tom Ritchey McKinley (touring pickup truck)
1985 ALAN Record (Glued & Screwed. A gift.)
1959 Hilton Wrigley Connoisseur (my favorite!)
1963 Hetchins Mountain King
1971 Gitane Tour de France (original owner)
* 1971 Gitane Super Corsa (crashed)
* rebuilt as upright cruiser
1971 Gitane Super Corsa #2 (sweet replacement)
1980 Ritchey Road Touring (The Grail Bike)
1982 Tom Ritchey Everest
(replacing stolen 1981 TR Everest custom)
1982 Tom Ritchey McKinley (touring pickup truck)
1985 ALAN Record (Glued & Screwed. A gift.)
02-25-14, 10:29 AM
#17
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Thanks for all the inputs and advice.
Here it is! I've taken the leap and am actually using it with the drop bars. To my surprise, I really like them. I've got it set up with planet bike fenders, a vintage rack, a battery operated taillight mounted to the rack, and a wald folding basket on one side. I'm still getting used to the bike, and still may make some more changes (the saddle, potentially a front rack or basket), but I'm having a great time!
Here it is! I've taken the leap and am actually using it with the drop bars. To my surprise, I really like them. I've got it set up with planet bike fenders, a vintage rack, a battery operated taillight mounted to the rack, and a wald folding basket on one side. I'm still getting used to the bike, and still may make some more changes (the saddle, potentially a front rack or basket), but I'm having a great time!
We went with road bars on my wife's Univega Sport Tour as well.
Safe pedaling.
And what bar wrap is that? It looks terrific.
02-25-14, 11:26 AM
#18
Zip tie Karen
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Great choice, and it'll be fun on longer rides, too. Way to go.
02-25-14, 12:38 PM
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[QUOTE=cooperryder;16525448
And what bar wrap is that? It looks terrific.[/QUOTE]
Thanks cooperryder and thumpic, the bar tape is natural cinelli cork tape, I believe. I can't take credit for it, since it was on there when I found the bike at the used bike shop. Aesthetically I like the idea of shellacking it to match my future honey brooks saddle splurge, but I like the give of the unshellacked cork so for now I'm leaving it.
And what bar wrap is that? It looks terrific.[/QUOTE]
Thanks cooperryder and thumpic, the bar tape is natural cinelli cork tape, I believe. I can't take credit for it, since it was on there when I found the bike at the used bike shop. Aesthetically I like the idea of shellacking it to match my future honey brooks saddle splurge, but I like the give of the unshellacked cork so for now I'm leaving it.
02-25-14, 12:49 PM
#20
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I have a question for all you C&Vers. Though I'm delighted with the bike so far, I'm still adjusting to the friction stem shifters. At first I thought it was just because I wasn't used to them, but the more I ride the more I feel like the rear derailleur only goes into three different gears. This is definitely a ten speed, I've even counted the rings in the back. There is definitely a difference when switching between the two different chain rings in front, but when I move through the rear gears I can only find three. I'm not sure which ones exactly are missing, though at both the top and the bottom the shifter can still move significantly up or down without there being another gear to shift into. I guess I'm just wondering, is this a common issue? Any thoughts on what is causing this? I have a 30 day warranty with the store where I bought it and the guy who sold it to me will totally help me with it, but I don't have time to get back there right now and I'm curious. It feels like this is somewhat decreasing my range of gears. If it's relevant, when in the easier chain ring in front, if I'm in the hardest gear in back the chain always rubs.
02-26-14, 06:31 AM
#22
Zip tie Karen
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Sometimes the straight tooth SunTour freewheels were sluggish when shifting from smaller to larger cogs, and it took finesse to get the chain to catch. In those combinations, we would overshift (to the cog 2 positions larger), and then drop it back down one. All done in one motion, but I'm going back 35 years here.
The better diagnosis, other than by riding it of course, is to put the bike on the stand and take it through its gears while observing the derailleur motion. The solution might be swapping in a Shimano-type hyperglide freewheel, which has a shaped/twisted tooth design that catches the chain earlier and results in a "make before break" connection between the cog to which you're shifting and the cog from which you're shifting, if that makes sense to you. The shift quality improves considerably. Several manufacturers have 6-speed or 7-speed freewheels that will fit on your rear hub and within in your rear triangle, which I would guess has a spacing of 126mm. Your shop can help with this... PG
The better diagnosis, other than by riding it of course, is to put the bike on the stand and take it through its gears while observing the derailleur motion. The solution might be swapping in a Shimano-type hyperglide freewheel, which has a shaped/twisted tooth design that catches the chain earlier and results in a "make before break" connection between the cog to which you're shifting and the cog from which you're shifting, if that makes sense to you. The shift quality improves considerably. Several manufacturers have 6-speed or 7-speed freewheels that will fit on your rear hub and within in your rear triangle, which I would guess has a spacing of 126mm. Your shop can help with this... PG
02-26-14, 03:53 PM
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Simple adjustments - But you may have to do serious cleaning and lubrication as well - Even bikes that have been judiciously placed in storage have a hard time waking up sometimes - I have used Brifters a few times and I can see why they are so popular, BUT I'm a Friction Shifter guy - I like the fact that when I move that shifter the end of it is moving the derailuer directly - If that's not happening as in your case then adjustment is needed...
02-26-14, 04:44 PM
#24
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"If it's relevant, when in the easier chain ring in front, if I'm in the hardest gear in back the chain always rubs".
I believe this would be due to cross chaining. So if the chain is in the smaller chainring in front (easiest) and in the smallest cog in the rear (hardest), your chain line would be at an angle if that makes sense. This particular situation, I believe, could make the chain rub on the outer wall of the front derailleur. Sometimes you can use the shifter for the front derailleur to "trim" or fine tune so it doesn't rub. From my understanding, this type of chain line puts stress on the chain and isn't optimal. I'm sure someone here with more experience could expand upon this.
I believe this would be due to cross chaining. So if the chain is in the smaller chainring in front (easiest) and in the smallest cog in the rear (hardest), your chain line would be at an angle if that makes sense. This particular situation, I believe, could make the chain rub on the outer wall of the front derailleur. Sometimes you can use the shifter for the front derailleur to "trim" or fine tune so it doesn't rub. From my understanding, this type of chain line puts stress on the chain and isn't optimal. I'm sure someone here with more experience could expand upon this.
02-26-14, 05:21 PM
#25
Thrifty Bill
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I have a question for all you C&Vers. Though I'm delighted with the bike so far, I'm still adjusting to the friction stem shifters. At first I thought it was just because I wasn't used to them, but the more I ride the more I feel like the rear derailleur only goes into three different gears. This is definitely a ten speed, I've even counted the rings in the back. There is definitely a difference when switching between the two different chain rings in front, but when I move through the rear gears I can only find three. I'm not sure which ones exactly are missing, though at both the top and the bottom the shifter can still move significantly up or down without there being another gear to shift into. I guess I'm just wondering, is this a common issue? Any thoughts on what is causing this? I have a 30 day warranty with the store where I bought it and the guy who sold it to me will totally help me with it, but I don't have time to get back there right now and I'm curious. It feels like this is somewhat decreasing my range of gears. If it's relevant, when in the easier chain ring in front, if I'm in the hardest gear in back the chain always rubs.
Yes, you should be able to use all five gears in the rear, but the small/small and the big/big are cross chaining. I would take it back and get it adjusted or it will become very irritating (3 is not right).
Also, if you are so inclined, run a gear calculator (Sheldon Brown site has a good one), and you will find although your bike has "10" speeds, they are not ten different speeds. There is usually some duplication. Sounds like you bought from a shop. Buying from a shop usually entails a premium. For this premium, they should be able to answer all of your questions and adjust the gears properly (and demonstrate they all "work".) But even with ten, there are two you should not use, which still leaves 8.