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Old 03-05-14, 09:32 PM   #51
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After working on this bike on and off for over a week i've decided to take the advise that someone offered and replace the wheel set. The helicomatic will be sold off. Hopefully it will be of interest to someone. Another issue I've encountered is the Duopar RD does have a bend somewhere as the lower pully "leans" inward towards the wheel spokes and is not perpendicular to the ground. I could probably bend it into shape but the trouble is that it has so many parts its difficult to tell which section has the bend. It's frustrating since it doesn't look damaged, but its obviously not hanging correctly.

Somehow I was thinking this would just be a clean up but it's turning into much more. I need to keep reminding myself I bought this primarily for the frame. Se la vie.
This vintage of Trek have AWESOME frames, they ride amazingly. A lot of them had these darn wheels that need to be replaced, if you can find a suitable replacement the rest is typically reusable. Again, Swap meets are your friend on bikes like this.
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Old 03-05-14, 11:58 PM   #52
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Nice. These bikes are a part of our lives so I completely get that. There's not too many things I still have that I've owned for 30+ years. Generally speaking, the things I've kept for that length of time will be with me till the end. I can only hope my grandchildren will appreciate the hand-me-downs.

What rear derailleur did you settle on? I need a rear derailleur. My Duopar, although looking new, will unfortunately be sold for parts since after starring at it repeatedly, I cannot see what is causing the issue...and.... just figured out the Suntour VX-GT I planned on as backup has a max chain wrap of 34, and I need 37.
Our daughter has pretty much zero interest in bikes. While our son has some interest in bikes, he has nowhere near the interest in old bikes that I do.

Regarding RDs... On my 620 I'm running a 50-45-28 on a 14-28 FW with a 1990-ish Suntour XC Comp. My Voyageur SP was using a 50-46-30 and a 14-28 FW with a Suntour LeTech.

I would guess any post 1984 GS caged Suntour or any long cage Shimano MTB derailleur (MT-60, 62, 730, 732, 735... etc) would work magically.
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Old 03-06-14, 06:50 PM   #53
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Maybe this is question that should be in the mechanics area but I just read this from sheldonbrown.com site that has to do with the rear derailleur decision I'm trying to make.

A note about capacity:
Manufacturers have to assume that their customers are clueless, and will expect the chain to have some tension on it even in the bad gears where the chain is using small chainrings with small rear sprockets. Thus, the rated chain-wrap capacity is very conservative. A competent cyclist who uses the gears properly can generally exceed this by several teeth with no problem.

Maybe I can get away with using my derailleur with 34 capacity with a set up that has a total possibility of 37...if I'm careful not to do silly things?

All comments/opinions are welcome Thank you


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Old 03-08-14, 03:56 PM   #54
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Yes, for chain wrap that should not be a problem, as most people only use the largest 1/2 of the cogs with the granny.
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Old 03-16-14, 02:02 PM   #55
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I'll be changing the seat and making a few light adjustments but other than that, I'm pretty much finished fixing up NOS. The term will never mean the same thing to me again.
Other than the parts I had planned on changing, I added new cables, wheels, freewheel, and rear derailleur. But the good news is, I'm finished for a while.
For the final hoorah, I'll post some before and afters, and again, thanks to all for all the input and help. You may be able to tell I followed some ideas.
PS... Thank you seller for the before pics.


Before


After
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Trek 1984 620.jpg (104.6 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg Trek 1984 620a.jpg (103.8 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg Trek 1984 620b.jpg (110.8 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg Trek 1984 620c.jpg (107.5 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg Trek 1984 620d.jpg (104.6 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg Trek 1984 620e.jpg (105.4 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg Trek 1984 620g.jpg (104.4 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg T 620 a.jpg (98.7 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg t 620 b.jpg (100.0 KB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg t 620 c.jpg (100.2 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg t 620 e.jpg (101.3 KB, 26 views)
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Old 03-16-14, 09:39 PM   #56
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Hey Bruce- That's a beautiful bike.

I know you want to change to a cushy springy seat- but I'd keep a supportive saddle.

Secondly- are the brake levers in a comfortable spot for you? I like having my bars up a little like you have them, but I like having the hood extend out on the same plane as the angle of the bars- yours look like they go up.

Just my personal preference stuff.

It's a fantastic bike- with a whole lot of seriously beautiful componentry on it. Ride it well!!!
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Old 03-16-14, 10:08 PM   #57
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Huge experience with the DuoPar..Best shifting rear derailleur if you have a wide spread cog..The only draw back is that it wears out more quickly
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Old 03-17-14, 07:00 PM   #58
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Hey Bruce- That's a beautiful bike.

I know you want to change to a cushy springy seat- but I'd keep a supportive saddle.

Secondly- are the brake levers in a comfortable spot for you? I like having my bars up a little like you have them, but I like having the hood extend out on the same plane as the angle of the bars- yours look like they go up.

Just my personal preference stuff.

It's a fantastic bike- with a whole lot of seriously beautiful componentry on it. Ride it well!!!
Thanks Dave. I may drop the bar a bit once I take it out and see how it feels. I ride primarily on the hoods and brake from there also so we'll see.
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Old 03-17-14, 07:05 PM   #59
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Huge experience with the DuoPar..Best shifting rear derailleur if you have a wide spread cog..The only draw back is that it wears out more quickly
I really wanted to keep that Duopar on the bike but it was not hanging straight and not having a straight one to compare to put me at a disadvantage. It is a very unique looking derailleur.
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Old 03-17-14, 07:25 PM   #60
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Thanks Dave. I may drop the bar a bit once I take it out and see how it feels. I ride primarily on the hoods and brake from there also so we'll see.
I would keep the bar angle (or maybe lessen it a touch), I'd just move the levers.

However, if it's comfortable for you- keep it!
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Old 03-17-14, 07:36 PM   #61
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I like my hoods to be perpendicular to the angle that my arms come down off of my body so my wrists do not have to twist downwards at my palms and pinch the ulnar nerve in my wrists when gripping the hoods. I have nerve issues with my wrists from years of racing motorcycles off-road and having undiagnosed lyme disease for a number of years which precipitated septic arthritis which presents mostly in my load-bearing joints as well as my wrists. I position my drop-bar brakes up higher than most people do and get a lot of folks comment that my "brake levers are too high." But I don't have them angled quite that much up/back.
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Old 03-17-14, 07:45 PM   #62
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I like Treks a whole lot and they don't get much better than your 620, Bruce. Give that Avocet saddle a chance - You may be pleasantly surprised. (They're well regarded by many riders, and my own experience bears that out).
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Old 03-25-14, 08:00 PM   #63
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Thanks all. Appreciate the suggestions and the kind words. The handlebar position is work in process, and they do look pretty high in those pics so some adjustment may be coming. Looking forward to the weather break to really start the season and ride this bike.
auchencrow, thank you. I road on an Avocet for many years, but it was long ago and I don't remember everything but I do remember the "break-in" period. Once I'm broken in, I'll give it a go this coming season.

Speaking of broke, more cash flying away on nos, (and I didn't noticed the front tire issue when it was initially mounted as I only put about 40 psi in them) the replacement tires are 1-1/4", and the tire tip is touching the fork top by 0.00001" or something like that. So to remedy this, I've now have a replacement 1-1/8" tire for the front on order with bells of cha-ching playing in the background.

Anyone else having fork/tire close encounters?

Maybe the tires are just larger/puffier than back in the day?
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Old 03-26-14, 09:23 AM   #64
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Speaking of broke, more cash flying away on nos, (and I didn't noticed the front tire issue when it was initially mounted as I only put about 40 psi in them) the replacement tires are 1-1/4", and the tire tip is touching the fork top by 0.00001" or something like that. So to remedy this, I've now have a replacement 1-1/8" tire for the front on order with bells of cha-ching playing in the background.


Maybe the tires are just larger/puffier than back in the day?

Regarding your tires- my 78/79 Trek 736 will take Pasela 28s, but not 32s- they drag on the fork crown and brake bridge. I've read that Paselas run large- at least compared to other tires.


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What rear derailleur did you settle on? I need a rear derailleur. My Duopar, although looking new, will unfortunately be sold for parts since after starring at it repeatedly, I cannot see what is causing the issue...and.... just figured out the Suntour VX-GT I planned on as backup has a max chain wrap of 34, and I need 37.
Regarding the DuoPar...

I've probably been the one to ***** the loudest about how bad the DuoPar is. My DuoPar on my 620 gave me problems; not little problems- big, unacceptable problems. Since I've gotten my 720, I have not replaced the DuoPar Titanium, based solely on the experience of JohnDThompson. When I have read about people talking about how GOOD and SMOOTH and magical the DuoPar is... My DuoPar Eco is none of those things. However, I've been SHOCKED as to how smooth operating the DuoPar Titanium is. Like seriously not feeling the chain moving. I've used some of what I've seen as the finest regarded derailleurs- this thing is among them. If this is how DuoPars shift- I understand how they're so well regarded. HOWEVER- they do appear to break.
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