Dropout adjusters--French
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Dropout adjusters--French
Hey all,
I'm not sure what these things are called. Basically it's something that sits in the rear dropout behind the wheel. Usually seen on Simplex type dropouts in early to mid '70's mid to high end road bikes. I've seen them on PX-10's, Gitane Tour de France's and the like.
Can anybody tell me what these things are called?
Thanks,
Kurt
I'm not sure what these things are called. Basically it's something that sits in the rear dropout behind the wheel. Usually seen on Simplex type dropouts in early to mid '70's mid to high end road bikes. I've seen them on PX-10's, Gitane Tour de France's and the like.
Can anybody tell me what these things are called?
Thanks,
Kurt
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Yeah, me too. Ran out of search term ideas on the auction block. Tried French, Simplex, dropout adjusters, French dropout adjusters, blah blah blah, etc., ad nauseum.
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Hey all,
I'm not sure what these things are called. Basically it's something that sits in the rear dropout behind the wheel. Usually seen on Simplex type dropouts in early to mid '70's mid to high end road bikes. I've seen them on PX-10's, Gitane Tour de France's and the like.
Can anybody tell me what these things are called?
Thanks,
Kurt
I'm not sure what these things are called. Basically it's something that sits in the rear dropout behind the wheel. Usually seen on Simplex type dropouts in early to mid '70's mid to high end road bikes. I've seen them on PX-10's, Gitane Tour de France's and the like.
Can anybody tell me what these things are called?
Thanks,
Kurt
I just call them rear axle adjusters. I checked to see if I could send you a link, but I couldn't find the term in Sheldon Brown's website.
My 85 Ciocc has those. It makes it easier to get the rear wheel in place, since all I have to do is push the rear axle back firmly and it's in place, then just flop the Q/R skewer. The wheel will always be in the same place, every time. A benefit is that the adjuster acts as a chain-tensioner, since it gives you a range of play in the dropout placement of the axle. Screw barely out, the chain is at max stretch, screw all the way out, and you have the chain with a bit more play/slack in it.
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They are not really used for adjusting tension on the chain (although it does affect tension a llittle bit) as that is mostly done by adding or removing links from the chain of a "geared" bike.
Dropout adjusters are there to adjust the location of the axles within a horizontal slot dropout, soyou get the RD to have best shifting performance as it will affect the distance between the cogs and the upper RD jockey wheel.
Dropout adjusters are there to adjust the location of the axles within a horizontal slot dropout, soyou get the RD to have best shifting performance as it will affect the distance between the cogs and the upper RD jockey wheel.
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They are not really used for adjusting tension on the chain (although it does affect tension a llittle bit) as that is mostly done by adding or removing links from the chain of a "geared" bike.
Dropout adjusters are there to adjust the location of the axles within a horizontal slot dropout, soyou get the RD to have best shifting performance as it will affect the distance between the cogs and the upper RD jockey wheel.
Dropout adjusters are there to adjust the location of the axles within a horizontal slot dropout, soyou get the RD to have best shifting performance as it will affect the distance between the cogs and the upper RD jockey wheel.
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#10
elcraft
https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/Site/...5_page_15.html
This a page from the 1975 catalogue. These stops are very rare these days- Good Luck finding them!
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https://www.ebay.fr/itm/SIMPLEX-centr...item4ad157a5ee
Centreur de roue is french for truing stand actually, but I think this is what you're looking for. No idea what they are supposed to be called.
Centreur de roue is french for truing stand actually, but I think this is what you're looking for. No idea what they are supposed to be called.
#12
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
You don't want to know how many of those have been thrown out over the years... some well meaning soul cleaned up our small parts cabinet and tossed a drawer full of those.
I will have to see what I have my tickle trunk... I tend to hoard these old bits and have a whole bunch of Simplex replacement parts.
I will have to see what I have my tickle trunk... I tend to hoard these old bits and have a whole bunch of Simplex replacement parts.
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I had the same on my Motobecane, apparently made out of the finest Delrin since they came apart as soon as I looked at them wrong.
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Previous thread on the subject here.
And if you scroll down to post 11672 here, you'll see my futile attempt to find some. Eventually I found a local flipper who still had a couple in the parts bin, but I had to pay ten bucks a pop for 'em.
And if you scroll down to post 11672 here, you'll see my futile attempt to find some. Eventually I found a local flipper who still had a couple in the parts bin, but I had to pay ten bucks a pop for 'em.
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Last edited by Hudson308; 03-04-14 at 07:10 AM.
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After reading that thread, I'm not so sure this method of locating the rear wheel was the cheap-out way of doing things. Years ago I purchased two Raleigh Team 753 frames from a guy out in Boulder, a '79 and one considerably newer, almost NOS. Unfortunately the postal service was not very delicate in their handling of the latter frame, and the driveline side rear dropout wound up getting hit and closing up. Cold setting the dropout resulted in a fracture right where the threaded hole is for the dropout adjuster. This seems to be a recurring problem as I've seen it on a lot of other frames. As long as the frame isn't hit there, it does just fine, but the threading in my opinion does weaken the dropout.
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So many little Gizmos get found and lost in my very crowded complicated bicycle work area - Lets see - Think I saw one in the old Firestone ash tray at the office and then another was in the bottom of the box of Christmas tree ornaments - I'll look around and PM ya if I find a pair...
On one bike I just epoxied in a 3/8" Nut for alignment...
Rem: These do not prevent the axle from being pulled out of the drop out if that's what you want them for...
On one bike I just epoxied in a 3/8" Nut for alignment...
Rem: These do not prevent the axle from being pulled out of the drop out if that's what you want them for...
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If you need the correct look you'll have to continue your search. If you want that function you can make them (aluminum or hardwood). I've made 3, so far, out of cherry scraps that were on their way to the wood stove. No one has gotten down on hands and knees, yet, to notice them nor remark on "not stock!".
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Unfortunately the postal service was not very delicate in their handling of the latter frame, and the driveline side rear dropout wound up getting hit and closing up. Cold setting the dropout resulted in a fracture right where the threaded hole is for the dropout adjuster. This seems to be a recurring problem as I've seen it on a lot of other frames. As long as the frame isn't hit there, it does just fine, but the threading in my opinion does weaken the dropout.
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Yup. Those are the things I'm talking about. Now all I have to do is find one or two.
After reading that thread, I'm not so sure this method of locating the rear wheel was the cheap-out way of doing things. Years ago I purchased two Raleigh Team 753 frames from a guy out in Boulder, a '79 and one considerably newer, almost NOS. Unfortunately the postal service was not very delicate in their handling of the latter frame, and the driveline side rear dropout wound up getting hit and closing up. Cold setting the dropout resulted in a fracture right where the threaded hole is for the dropout adjuster. This seems to be a recurring problem as I've seen it on a lot of other frames. As long as the frame isn't hit there, it does just fine, but the threading in my opinion does weaken the dropout.
After reading that thread, I'm not so sure this method of locating the rear wheel was the cheap-out way of doing things. Years ago I purchased two Raleigh Team 753 frames from a guy out in Boulder, a '79 and one considerably newer, almost NOS. Unfortunately the postal service was not very delicate in their handling of the latter frame, and the driveline side rear dropout wound up getting hit and closing up. Cold setting the dropout resulted in a fracture right where the threaded hole is for the dropout adjuster. This seems to be a recurring problem as I've seen it on a lot of other frames. As long as the frame isn't hit there, it does just fine, but the threading in my opinion does weaken the dropout.
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The spacers I referenced above in both threads are the 2-piece-plus-bolt type that slide into the dropout slot and sandwich the dropout. This type does not require an additional tapped hole behind the slot. There may be a type that requires an additional tapped hole, similar to the hole used for claw-type rear derailleur adapters. If anything, the spacers I'm using would strengthen any dropout slot they're installed in, making it more difficult to bend the slot shut as you described.
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For future thread searchers another alternative to those offered in posts 17 & 18 above is this claw adapter nut offered by Niagra Cycle, as noted by Seedsbelize and Pastorbobnlnh in previous threads. You would want to buy two of them, then drill the threads out of one to use them like this.
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Last edited by Hudson308; 03-04-14 at 12:09 PM.
#24
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They do turn up on eBay from time to time: https://www.ebay.com/itm/221383674385
Here are some more: https://www.ebay.com/itm/321339762158
Here are some more: https://www.ebay.com/itm/321339762158
Last edited by Metacortex; 03-04-14 at 01:27 PM.
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Perhaps these Monkey Nuts from Surly would work?