smontanaro 

I've put together a Cyclone GT rear derailleur for degan from some pieces parts he sent me. I have a question about getting the pulley tension spring set up properly. In the second diagram on this page at Yellow Jersey I'm referring to parts 19 and 20. The bolt has a castellated top into which the outer end of the spring fits. I got two assemblies from degan which were put together in the same fashion, so just assumed they were set up properly. (While the specific details are a little different between the short cage Cyclone and the long cage Cyclone GT, they both use a castellated bolt with a coil tension spring.) The third assembly (#18, 19, 20) was apart, however. I saw no registration marks on the castellated bolt to tell me which slot should hold the spring tab. Is it just a trial-and-error process to get these things set up so you don't have too little or too much tension in the pulley cage?

dddd

Maybe just start with a half-turn of windup to where the cage rotation stop engages. If anything this should not have the chain tensioned excessively.

If you ride mostly in the big ring, then a lower spring tension gives a lighter shifting feel resulting from less friction in the pivots.

If you ride mostly in the small ring, then a higher spring tension helps keep the chain from slapping the chainstay.

Prowler 

I went thru this recently with my Cyclone GT. Trial and adjust. At first I went by feel and determined which slot in the bolt (part 20) I should engage the spring then I marked that spot with a dot of red nail polish. I mounted the RD and went thru the gears to see how the tension worked and how it all shifted. Too loose, so I opened it up and moved the spring one slot (the dot of red helped me keep track since the spring kept popping out when I removed part 18. I got there pretty quick.

Oh, on an old machine like this don't take anything for granted - don't assume it was correct to begin with. On my Nishiki the chain was too short - had been for ages. 2 more links added and the tension spring set correctly and it all runs just great and doesn't over tension the spring nor the chain.

smontanaro 

Thanks for that info. One thing I noticed was that when the subassembly was put together, but not installed in the derailleur it was impossible to undo that cap screw. Does it open up okay when the derailleur is all together (derailleur body + pulley cage)?

Prowler 

A-ha,its not just me. Yes I've had trouble too with that. I've mostly had to remove the jockey wheel nut, wheel, remove the cage then gently clamp the bottom of the bolt in the smooth jaws of my vice (the rubber jaw covers from Sears). Only then can I loosen the cap. Very nice RD but THAT is an awful design. That's why my spring always popped out of the slot on the other end, Thats why I dotted one slot and kept notes. PIA. I've now used blue Locktite on that cap's threads and not tightened it too much. That probably will not help but my fingers are crossed.

Anyone else out there with the Cyclone RD know the proper method?