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Old 03-03-14, 07:45 PM   #1
satbuilder 
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Dropout adjusters--French

Hey all,

I'm not sure what these things are called. Basically it's something that sits in the rear dropout behind the wheel. Usually seen on Simplex type dropouts in early to mid '70's mid to high end road bikes. I've seen them on PX-10's, Gitane Tour de France's and the like.

Can anybody tell me what these things are called?

Thanks,

Kurt
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Old 03-03-14, 08:04 PM   #2
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Axle stops, maybe. Question - where can you buy them?
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Old 03-03-14, 08:12 PM   #3
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I have the same question. I need a pair. I'd hate to have to buy a PX10 to get them.
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Old 03-03-14, 08:15 PM   #4
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Yeah, me too. Ran out of search term ideas on the auction block. Tried French, Simplex, dropout adjusters, French dropout adjusters, blah blah blah, etc., ad nauseum.
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Old 03-03-14, 08:28 PM   #5
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Not only the French used them, but mostly.
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Old 03-03-14, 08:44 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by satbuilder View Post
Hey all,

I'm not sure what these things are called. Basically it's something that sits in the rear dropout behind the wheel. Usually seen on Simplex type dropouts in early to mid '70's mid to high end road bikes. I've seen them on PX-10's, Gitane Tour de France's and the like.

Can anybody tell me what these things are called?

Thanks,

Kurt
They're basically called chain-tension adjusters, same application as in a motorcycle's rear wheel, except for motorcycles it's not a "stop", but also a device to secure the wheel from moving forward or backwards and to adjust the alignment of the wheel to be parallel to the bike's centerline. It keeps the wheel from being skewed to one side, therefore losing speed and power due to tires scrubbing a bit sideways.

I just call them rear axle adjusters. I checked to see if I could send you a link, but I couldn't find the term in Sheldon Brown's website.

My 85 Ciocc has those. It makes it easier to get the rear wheel in place, since all I have to do is push the rear axle back firmly and it's in place, then just flop the Q/R skewer. The wheel will always be in the same place, every time. A benefit is that the adjuster acts as a chain-tensioner, since it gives you a range of play in the dropout placement of the axle. Screw barely out, the chain is at max stretch, screw all the way out, and you have the chain with a bit more play/slack in it.
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Old 03-03-14, 08:52 PM   #7
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They are not really used for adjusting tension on the chain (although it does affect tension a llittle bit) as that is mostly done by adding or removing links from the chain of a "geared" bike.
Dropout adjusters are there to adjust the location of the axles within a horizontal slot dropout, soyou get the RD to have best shifting performance as it will affect the distance between the cogs and the upper RD jockey wheel.
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Old 03-03-14, 10:04 PM   #8
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They are not really used for adjusting tension on the chain (although it does affect tension a llittle bit) as that is mostly done by adding or removing links from the chain of a "geared" bike.
Dropout adjusters are there to adjust the location of the axles within a horizontal slot dropout, soyou get the RD to have best shifting performance as it will affect the distance between the cogs and the upper RD jockey wheel.
Yes, I know all that. reading my reply, you'll see what I said, which is why I call them axle adjusters. The proper term probably is Bicycle Rear Dropout Wheel Alignment Screw-Adjusters, to be exact. If you'd like to find a more apropos term, be my guest.
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Old 03-03-14, 10:05 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by satbuilder View Post
Yeah, me too. Ran out of search term ideas on the auction block. Tried French, Simplex, dropout adjusters, French dropout adjusters, blah blah blah, etc., ad nauseum.
Found them on ebay, here's a link http://www.ebay.com/itm/REAR-END-FRA...item2a38bc7698

Mike
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Old 03-03-14, 11:18 PM   #10
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Found them on ebay, here's a link http://www.ebay.com/itm/REAR-END-FRA...item2a38bc7698

Mike
I am reasonably sure the OP is not referring to these! The OP made specific mention of the adjusters from French bikes; the type that clamped inside the drop out's slot. These were also used on some Schwinn models, as well. Generally, they were also used on the left/ NDS drop out to compensate for clamped on derailleur hangers on the right/ Drive Side. These were a nicely made Huret product that they called "alignment stops" Ref.# 849. see:

http://www.disraeligears.co.uk/Site/...5_page_15.html

This a page from the 1975 catalogue. These stops are very rare these days- Good Luck finding them!
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Old 03-04-14, 03:43 AM   #11
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http://www.ebay.fr/itm/SIMPLEX-centr...item4ad157a5ee

Centreur de roue
is french for truing stand actually, but I think this is what you're looking for. No idea what they are supposed to be called.
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Old 03-04-14, 03:51 AM   #12
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You don't want to know how many of those have been thrown out over the years... some well meaning soul cleaned up our small parts cabinet and tossed a drawer full of those.

I will have to see what I have my tickle trunk... I tend to hoard these old bits and have a whole bunch of Simplex replacement parts.
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Old 03-04-14, 04:29 AM   #13
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I had the same on my Motobecane, apparently made out of the finest Delrin since they came apart as soon as I looked at them wrong.
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Old 03-04-14, 06:45 AM   #14
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Previous thread on the subject here.
And if you scroll down to post 11672 here, you'll see my futile attempt to find some. Eventually I found a local flipper who still had a couple in the parts bin, but I had to pay ten bucks a pop for 'em.

Last edited by Hudson308; 03-04-14 at 07:10 AM.
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Old 03-04-14, 08:07 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jj1091 View Post
Yes, I know all that. reading my reply, you'll see what I said, which is why I call them axle adjusters. The proper term probably is Bicycle Rear Dropout Wheel Alignment Screw-Adjusters, to be exact. If you'd like to find a more apropos term, be my guest.
What was it you said about reading comprehension?
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Old 03-04-14, 09:46 AM   #16
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Previous thread on the subject here.
And if you scroll down to post 11672 here, you'll see my futile attempt to find some. Eventually I found a local flipper who still had a couple in the parts bin, but I had to pay ten bucks a pop for 'em.
Yup. Those are the things I'm talking about. Now all I have to do is find one or two.

After reading that thread, I'm not so sure this method of locating the rear wheel was the cheap-out way of doing things. Years ago I purchased two Raleigh Team 753 frames from a guy out in Boulder, a '79 and one considerably newer, almost NOS. Unfortunately the postal service was not very delicate in their handling of the latter frame, and the driveline side rear dropout wound up getting hit and closing up. Cold setting the dropout resulted in a fracture right where the threaded hole is for the dropout adjuster. This seems to be a recurring problem as I've seen it on a lot of other frames. As long as the frame isn't hit there, it does just fine, but the threading in my opinion does weaken the dropout.
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Old 03-04-14, 10:28 AM   #17
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So many little Gizmos get found and lost in my very crowded complicated bicycle work area - Lets see - Think I saw one in the old Firestone ash tray at the office and then another was in the bottom of the box of Christmas tree ornaments - I'll look around and PM ya if I find a pair...

On one bike I just epoxied in a 3/8" Nut for alignment...

Rem: These do not prevent the axle from being pulled out of the drop out if that's what you want them for...
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Old 03-04-14, 10:51 AM   #18
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If you need the correct look you'll have to continue your search. If you want that function you can make them (aluminum or hardwood). I've made 3, so far, out of cherry scraps that were on their way to the wood stove. No one has gotten down on hands and knees, yet, to notice them nor remark on "not stock!".
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Old 03-04-14, 10:57 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by satbuilder View Post
Unfortunately the postal service was not very delicate in their handling of the latter frame, and the driveline side rear dropout wound up getting hit and closing up. Cold setting the dropout resulted in a fracture right where the threaded hole is for the dropout adjuster. This seems to be a recurring problem as I've seen it on a lot of other frames. As long as the frame isn't hit there, it does just fine, but the threading in my opinion does weaken the dropout.
The spacers I referenced above in both threads are the 2-piece-plus-bolt type that slide into the dropout slot and sandwich the dropout. This type does not require an additional tapped hole behind the slot. There may be a type that requires an additional tapped hole, similar to the hole used for claw-type rear derailleur adapters. If anything, the spacers I'm using would strengthen any dropout slot they're installed in, making it more difficult to bend the slot shut as you described.
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Old 03-04-14, 11:07 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by satbuilder View Post
Yup. Those are the things I'm talking about. Now all I have to do is find one or two.

After reading that thread, I'm not so sure this method of locating the rear wheel was the cheap-out way of doing things. Years ago I purchased two Raleigh Team 753 frames from a guy out in Boulder, a '79 and one considerably newer, almost NOS. Unfortunately the postal service was not very delicate in their handling of the latter frame, and the driveline side rear dropout wound up getting hit and closing up. Cold setting the dropout resulted in a fracture right where the threaded hole is for the dropout adjuster. This seems to be a recurring problem as I've seen it on a lot of other frames. As long as the frame isn't hit there, it does just fine, but the threading in my opinion does weaken the dropout.
I agree that the threaded hole weakens the dropout, but Simplex went with the threaded hole in later years when they switched to the Campagnolo style hanger. I don't think it was an improvement.
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Old 03-04-14, 11:11 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Hudson308 View Post
The spacers I referenced above in both threads are the 2-piece-plus-bolt type that slide into the dropout slot and sandwich the dropout. This type does not require an additional tapped hole behind the slot. There may be a type that requires an additional tapped hole, similar to the hole used for claw-type rear derailleur adapters. If anything, the spacers I'm using would strengthen any dropout slot they're installed in, making it more difficult to bend the slot shut as you described.
I don't think that explanation was necessary. Satbuilder knows exactly what you're talking about and so do I. Actually, there are three pieces plus a nut, bolt and washer.
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Old 03-04-14, 12:05 PM   #22
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I don't think that explanation was necessary. Satbuilder knows exactly what you're talking about and so do I. Actually, there are three pieces plus a nut, bolt and washer.
Ah, ok good. My apologies for any perceived condescension. None intended... you guys are the experts here.
For future thread searchers another alternative to those offered in posts 17 & 18 above is this claw adapter nut offered by Niagra Cycle, as noted by Seedsbelize and Pastorbobnlnh in previous threads. You would want to buy two of them, then drill the threads out of one to use them like this.

Last edited by Hudson308; 03-04-14 at 12:09 PM.
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Old 03-04-14, 12:21 PM   #23
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It could work, but the QR would butt up against it instead of the axle. I'll hold out for the real thing.
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Old 03-04-14, 01:23 PM   #24
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They do turn up on eBay from time to time: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221383674385

Here are some more: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321339762158

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Old 03-04-14, 01:57 PM   #25
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Perhaps these Monkey Nuts from Surly would work?
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