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  1. #1
    Junior Member dveit84's Avatar
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    Need Help Identifying Vintage Peugeot Road Bike

    Hi,

    I just purchased a Peugeot road bike off craigslist and I'm trying to identify the year and model. The craigslist ad states "63cm Peugeot Road Bike. Nice condition with Reynolds 501 tubing & original 700c wheels. Sachs Rival components". I've attached pictures of the actual bike.

    I've done some research on this forum and found Cycles Rétro-Peugeot. I've looked through them all and couldn't find a perfect match but the closest I could find was 1986 Ventoux.

    http://www.peugeotshow.com/1986us/1986us_06.jpg

    I'm still not sure though.

    What do you guys think?

    What does this model sell for in the Virginia area?

    Thanks,
    Dan

    00c0c_3MLO7Oxlx0u_600x450.jpg00H0H_g1adH1McYN2_600x450.jpg00N0N_lYnzOeCyD85_600x450.jpg00x0x_4K12cMejoZi_600x450.jpg01111_bvgmizj1tZd_600x450.jpg01717_5bigEXaHpUm_600x450.jpg
    Last edited by dveit84; 03-11-14 at 04:11 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member koolerb's Avatar
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    I think your pretty close on the year, I'd guess mid 80's. Not sure about the model though. Time to find some catalogs.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Chombi's Avatar
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    Judging from the 501 tubing, head decal style and the seatpost clamp, It could most likely be a 1985 Peugeot PGN...
    IIRC, Vetouxs had a decal on the top tube saying "Vetoux". The PGN did not sport any model decal. You might want to check if the paper tag Peugeot tapes on to the left chainstay, near the bottom bracket is still there. The first letters typed on to it usually denotes the model of the bike.
    Last edited by Chombi; 03-11-14 at 01:56 AM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Grand Bois's Avatar
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    I t just needs a saddle, a replacement for the Helicomatic hub and the brake cables put behind the bars.

  5. #5
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dveit84 View Post
    What does this model sell for in the Virginia area?
    Virginia area is very broad as to value. You have suburban DC, which enjoys sky high prices. Then you have rural areas, and everything in between.

    +1 Paper tag on nondrive side stay, if it is still there, will give model number and size. Otherwise, a tape measure is your best bet. I have given up on sellers getting size right, its so rare.
    Last edited by wrk101; 03-10-14 at 08:19 PM.

  6. #6
    Junior Member dveit84's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grand Bois View Post
    I t just needs a saddle, a replacement for the Helicomatic hub and the brake cables put behind the bars.
    What do you mean replacement for the hub and brake cables behind the bars? Can you elaborate more?

    Is there something wrong with this hub?

  7. #7
    Junior Member dveit84's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrk101 View Post
    Virginia area is very broad as to value. You have suburban DC, which enjoys sky high prices. Then you have rural areas, and everything in between.

    +1 Paper tag on nondrive side stay, if it is still there, will give model number and size. Otherwise, a tape measure is your best bet. I have given up on sellers getting size right, its so rare.
    I'm currently living in Richmond, VA

  8. #8
    Senior Member Grand Bois's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dveit84 View Post
    What do you mean replacement for the hub and brake cables behind the bars? Can you elaborate more?

    Is there something wrong with this hub?
    The Helicomatic hub has a high failure rate due to undersize bearings and cassettes are difficult to find. I'd change it for peace of mind and to increase the bike's value. There are a lot of them still on the road, though. The cables should pass over and behind the handlebars. The front will have a straight run to the brake and the rear will have less tendency to flop toward the center.

  9. #9
    Senior Member SJX426's Avatar
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    I have a failed Helicomatic Hub. If you take good care of it, it may be OK, not great. It will required regular inspection. The cone fails first and they are unobtainium except from other Helicomatic hubs. If I could find the pic I would show it. Removing the "freewheel" requires a special tool which also is not inexpensive. Some have used channel locks with success, but requires care to not mangle the features the tool needs to be usefull. If you are going to chuck it, it doesn't matter. Do a google on "Helicomatic Hub" prior to making a decision.

    Nice looking Pug, BTW!

  10. #10
    Senior Member SvenMN's Avatar
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    Welcome Dan. Plenty of folks here with significantly more Peugeot knowledge than myself, but I will add some initial thoughts.

    You have a nice example of what looks like a 1985 PH501. If it had the Reynolds 501 label on the fork it would be a PGN-10 but I think I can see the Carbolite label your fork. Looks to be in very good condition, and all original except for the saddle. A very pleasant bike to ride...

    I put thousands of miles on my PH501, and now my son has done the same. The Helico hubs do require regular maintenance, but I've not had a significant failure with 10s of thousands of miles on them. Watch your local swap or co-op for the rear hub tool and Helico hubs. At the Twin Cities swap I saw a few of the tools, and I bought a NOS rear hub for $5. They are around. Be sure to get them serviced as soon as possible. Headset and bottom bracket should be done as well.

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  11. #11
    Still learning oddjob2's Avatar
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    Looks nice and low miles. If you can post a close up photo of the seat post where it enters the seat tube, that can help id the bike too.

    If you aren't planning any long rides, don't change the hub for the sake of it. I have that hub on my PGN10 and many Treks, all mid 1980's bikes. I've done rides up to 40 miles without any issues. And out of the many Peugeot bikes I've bought, reconditioned, and sold, only one had a bad cog on it.

    I've bought two Helicomatic wrenches for under $20 each.
    Last edited by oddjob2; 03-11-14 at 11:21 AM.
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  12. #12
    Senior Member auchencrow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oddjob2 View Post
    .....

    If you aren't planning any long rides, don't change the hub for the sake of it. I have that hub on my PGN10 and many Treks, all mid 1980's bikes. I've done rides up to 40 miles without any issues. And out of the many Peugeot bikes I've bought, reconditioned, and sold, only one had a bad cog on it.

    I've bought to of the Helicomatic wrenches for under $20 each.
    +1
    If it is in good repair and well lubed, a Helicomatic will last a while and,(when in good repair) it's a super smooth hub. IMHO, no need to change it if you don't take extended tours.
    Once one goes though it's gone and you'll need to lace in a new hub.
    I'd expect to pay about $15 for a wrench though I got mine for much less.
    - Auchen

  13. #13
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    +1 Helicomatic is long term dump it, short term OK to keep. Now if I was planning a cross country tour, I'd dump it.
    See some of my bikes on facebook: http://www.facebook.com/BillsVintageSteelBikes

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  14. #14
    Senior Member SvenMN's Avatar
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    I've done plenty of centuries on my Helico hubbed bikes. I agree… ride it now while keeping an eye out for a nice upgrade wheelset.

    Dan's bike has internally brazed Reynolds 501 tubed frame & Carbolite 105 fork (picture 5) = PH501, likely 1985. Lugged full 501 frame = PGN-10.
    Last edited by SvenMN; 03-11-14 at 01:56 PM. Reason: correct terminology -internally, not filet
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  15. #15
    Vello Kombi, baby Poguemahone's Avatar
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    That's off the Richmond CL I believe-- I'd put local value right now around 200$. Large size holds price down. Nice bike. Worth more in the early fall, when VCU comes into session.
    "It's always darkest right before it goes completely black"

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  16. #16
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    I haven't ridden a PGN-10, but I'd bet it rides very well. I test rode a PKN-10 from a couple of years earlier, and I was impressed. The mid-level Peugeots offered excellent value and great ride.
    You don't read my signature anyway, do you?

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  17. #17
    Senior Member miamijim's Avatar
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    I think there was 1 or 2 PH501's/Ventoux's with Reynolds 501 frames and forks although the rear triangle may have been regular cromo...

    501 tubing without lugs = PH501/Ventoux
    501 tubing with lugs = PGN10/Galibier
    WWW.CYCLESPEUGEOT.COM 2005 Pinarello Dogma; 1991 Paramount PDG 70 Mtb; 1976? AD Vent Noir; 1989 LeMond Maillot Juane F&F; 1993? Basso GAP F&F; 1989 Terry Symmetry; 2003 Trek 4700 Mtb; 1983 Vitus 979

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    Quote Originally Posted by Grand Bois View Post
    I t just needs a saddle, a replacement for the Helicomatic hub and the brake cables put behind the bars.
    Two out of three. Any Helicomatic still around is one that's not got any problems, and brake cables look better ahead of the bars. That's why they're always there.

  19. #19
    Senior Member Grand Bois's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cute Boy Horse View Post
    Two out of three. Any Helicomatic still around is one that's not got any problems, and brake cables look better ahead of the bars. That's why they're always there.

  20. #20
    Junior Member dveit84's Avatar
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    Thank you everyone for all your input, I really appreciate it. The fork is indeed carbolite 103 and I've also attached a picture of the requested seat post.

    I'm a complete n00b at this. I've been working on cars and motorcycles all my life, but this is the first time I've dabbed into bicycles.

    I won't be doing any long hauls but this will be my daily commuter to and from work (~3 miles each way). I'll probably end up replacing the hub but not immediately. I'm going to do some more research on this site and hopefully there is a DIY writeup on how to properly do maintenance on the Helicomatic hubs (disassembling, lubing, etc).

    What would you guys suggest replacing it with?

    Thanks,
    Dan

    20140311_155831.jpg20140311_155903.jpg
    Last edited by dveit84; 03-11-14 at 03:37 PM.

  21. #21
    Junior Member dveit84's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poguemahone View Post
    That's off the Richmond CL I believe-- I'd put local value right now around 200$. Large size holds price down. Nice bike. Worth more in the early fall, when VCU comes into session.
    Yes, it was the one off of Richmond CL. It was listed at $260 but I talked him down to $200. Sounds like I paid around the right price for it, but it's not my intention to flip it for a profit, so I guess I did alright.

  22. #22
    Vello Kombi, baby Poguemahone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dveit84 View Post
    Yes, it was the one off of Richmond CL. It was listed at $260 but I talked him down to $200. Sounds like I paid around the right price for it, but it's not my intention to flip it for a profit, so I guess I did alright.
    You did well. The bike had been up for some time. It was moderately overpriced, I thought, but when selling it is good to leave some bargaining room.

    Over haul is simple, though I would simply find a decent rear wheel and replace the heliocomatic-- I once had one go mid ride, and it was annoying to say the least.

    Rag and Bones Co-op may be able to help. https://www.facebook.com/RagBonesBicycleCoOp
    "It's always darkest right before it goes completely black"

    Waste your money! Buy my comic book!

  23. #23
    Still learning oddjob2's Avatar
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    @SvenMN got it right, PH501. No lugs, normal seat post clamp, carbo fork.
    Last edited by oddjob2; 03-11-14 at 04:07 PM.
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. Albert Einstein
    2014 Additions: 1985 Trek 560, 1992 Trek Multitrack 700 (my 2nd), 1994 Trek Carbon 2200, Peugeot PX-10, 1981 Schwinn Voyageur 11.8, 1989 Bridgestone RB-1, Miyata 912

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