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  1. #1
    Senior Member Thumpic's Avatar
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    Man I hate this!!! Black lightening fork.......

    I'll try not to start anymore threads about this bike, but this is about a specific problem. The stem and fork are one. I inverted the frame and plugged the hole for the stem bolt and filled the entire fork tube with PB Blaster. Waited 24 hrs and twisted the stem as hard as I dared. I had a 2x4 in the fork legs as close to the top of the fork as possible. I am afraid that I'll distort or even destroy the fork. Is this fork anything special because its on a black lightening? I definitely do not want to damage the frame either. It makes me sick..........
    Thumpic....

    Green is the new "CHEAP"

  2. #2
    Keener splendor TimmyT's Avatar
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    Did you try Sheldon Brown's ammonia trick? He uses it for stuck seat posts, but it should work for stems:
    14 Ways to Unstick a Seatpost

    See #8

  3. #3
    Senior Member Chombi's Avatar
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    You need to break the corrosion between the stem and steered tube. Many had been successful using "Freeze-Off". Do a search and you can find out how to best use it. A couple of years ago, I was able to release a really badly stuck stem on one of my bikes by using Freeze-Off. Discovered the stuff after using all sorts of other penetrants, including PB Blaster for about a month of soaking, and careful twisting and pounding without success, till I used the Freeze-Off...and the stem came off only ten minutes after I used it!

  4. #4
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chombi View Post
    You need to break the corrosion between the stem and steered tube. Many had been successful using "Freeze-Off". Do a search and you can find out how to best use it. A couple of years ago, I was able to release a really badly stuck stem on one of my bikes by using Freeze-Off. Discovered the stuff after using all sorts of other penetrants, including PB Blaster for about a month of soaking, and careful twisting and pounding without success, till I used the Freeze-Off...and the stem came off only ten minutes after I used it!
    +1 on products like this. In our shop, we use a product called Chill Zone from Finish Line that's similar, and we've had very good luck freeing parts that are joined by galvanic corrosion.

  5. #5
    Still learning oddjob2's Avatar
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    Did you try tapping the stem down?

    I have tried all the above chemicals and solvents on a seatpost, ended up cutting it out with a sawzall.
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. Albert Einstein
    2015 Additions: 2001 Eddy Merckx AX Titanium, 1981 Peugeot PKN10, 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert, Raleigh Super Course MKII, Raleigh DL-1 Tourist

  6. #6
    Senior Member Michael Angelo's Avatar
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    I use this to hold the steer tubes, a 1" Tube holding block, I get mine from Paragon Machine. DO NOT USE A 2X4 WEDGED BETWEEN THE BLADES.
    www.paragonmachineworks.com - FT4008TubeBlock1Bore134x2


    The last Stuck stem I removed, I used heat. I held the steer tube with the blocks held in a vise. Then applied heat with a small propane torch to the stem only, then shocked it with cold water. I did that a few times, then let it cool. Came right out.

    Note: I did cut the stem enough to be able to remove the fork from the frame.
    Last edited by Michael Angelo; 03-12-14 at 04:23 AM.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    Thumpic, Patience! A leather mallet can shock a stem or seat post loose, just no John Henry power levels.

    Brad

  8. #8
    aka: Dr. Cannondale rccardr's Avatar
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    Also, make sure you have the bottom wedge out of the stem body. Loosen the bolt, then strike it HARD with a steel hammer and punch. Some of the stems with the circular wedge (e.g. Modolo) can get stuck up in there...
    Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...

  9. #9
    USMC Veteran, 1975-1977 qcpmsame's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thumpic View Post
    snip... Is this fork anything special because its on a black lightening? I definitely do not want to damage the frame either. It makes me sick..........
    As far as I can tell by looking on Vintage Cannondale's website for the catalogs, it is a Tange Cro-Mo fork, same listing in every Road (SR) bicycle's spec list. Still wouldn't want to mess it up. Maybe the good doctor's advice or one of the others above will solve the problem. Best of luck.

    Bill
    I can do all things through Christ, who strengthens me. Philippians 4:13

  10. #10
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    The fork was just regular Cannondale spec fork just black w/ gold decals.
    Bianchis '87 Sport SX, '90 Proto, '90 Campione del Fausto Giamondi Specialisma Italiano Mundo, '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '86 Volpe, '97 Ti Megatube, , '90 something Vento 603,

    Others but still loved,; '80 RIGI, '80 Batavus Professional, '87 Cornelo, '09 Motobecane SOLD, '?? Jane Doe (still on the drawing board), '90ish Haro Escape

  11. #11
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    I had luck with my paconi with sodium hydroxide. Tried all mechanical methods including freezing as people have suggested. This is a LAST RESORT METHOD that is 100% certain to work. only use if you are understanding of the dangers of strong chemicals. Use it last. Oh and i love riding the paconi to this day. 531C with perfect geo for my build and shimano 600.

  12. #12
    Senior Member OldsCOOL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aussiepug View Post
    I had luck with my paconi with sodium hydroxide. Tried all mechanical methods including freezing as people have suggested. This is a LAST RESORT METHOD that is 100% certain to work. only use if you are understanding of the dangers of strong chemicals. Use it last. Oh and i love riding the paconi to this day. 531C with perfect geo for my build and shimano 600.
    Except for that aluminum headtube and entire frame....
    Having a flat tire as part of the total cycling experience is highly overrated. Knowing how to fix one quickly is not.

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  13. #13
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    I have an alloy MODOLO stem thats been stuck in my 1989 Cannondale head tube since I bought it. I've tried everything to get it out. It was placed in almost all the way, and if I could just move it up about and inch and a half it would be perfect.

    BTW...a MODOLO stem is also on a 1988 Centurion Ironman Master I bought a couple of years ago. Same thing, but this is one is black, not just the exposed alloy like on the Cannondale.

    Is this a MODOLO issue?????????

  14. #14
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    Here's the one on the Centurion...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #15
    Senior Member miamijim's Avatar
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    Thumpic...where are you? Tampa-ish?

    If so I'll get the stem out for you.
    WWW.CYCLESPEUGEOT.COM 1984 Schwinn Paramount; 1987 Schwinn Paramount; 1975 Tom Ritchey, 198X Vitus

  16. #16
    Still learning oddjob2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miamijim View Post
    Thumpic...where are you? Tampa-ish?

    If so I'll get the stem out for you.
    A man who likes a challenge! And a generous and kind offer MiamiJim.
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. Albert Einstein
    2015 Additions: 2001 Eddy Merckx AX Titanium, 1981 Peugeot PKN10, 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert, Raleigh Super Course MKII, Raleigh DL-1 Tourist

  17. #17
    Senior Member Cache's Avatar
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    Have you tried a can opener? Just teasing. And for what its worth, I've had good results using Kroil, patience, and a bit of force.

  18. #18
    WNG
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    Spin Forest! Spin! WNG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldbikenewbike View Post
    Here's the one on the Centurion...


    No, Modolo stems have a different reputation. That's a 'death stem' that you have on the Centurion.
    The Professional and Ex-tenos (sp?) had the bad habit of snapping from cracks around the binder bolt. There was a recall on these models back in the 80s.
    The lesser models weren't recalled!

    The fact both of yours are stuck is probably a coincidence. A lot of alloy stem/steel steerer seizure issues in old bikes were caused by lack of grease during installation.
    Those in damp climates have a higher occurrence.
    “You meet the nicest people on two wheels!"
    "Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow." ~Albert Einstein

  19. #19
    Senior Member shoota's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oddjob2 View Post
    A man who likes a challenge! And a generous and kind offer MiamiJim.
    That pretty much sums him up
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  20. #20
    Senior Member SJX426's Avatar
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    I use to hate Bianchi Celeste. Then I woke up and started looking for a frame when the Moto died. Found one I was willing to purchase. Noticed the dents in the inside front and back of the fork blades. Must have had a stuck stem!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by WNG View Post


    No, Modolo stems have a different reputation. That's a 'death stem' that you have on the Centurion.
    The Professional and Ex-tenos (sp?) had the bad habit of snapping from cracks around the binder bolt. There was a recall on these models back in the 80s.
    The lesser models weren't recalled!

    The fact both of yours are stuck is probably a coincidence. A lot of alloy stem/steel steerer seizure issues in old bikes were caused by lack of grease during installation.
    Those in damp climates have a higher occurrence.
    Actually, it was different model than the ones I have (see photo). It's a different model number altogether, and had a "flat", rough finish.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  22. #22
    WNG
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldbikenewbike View Post
    Actually, it was different model than the ones I have (see photo). It's a different model number altogether, and had a "flat", rough finish.
    I had the same or very similar gloss model you have on the Centurion. IIRC, it's the Pro model. I was simply reiterating what has been circulating on the 'net on the recall.
    The Professional was on the list of recalled models.

    I was stressing how could they have left off the less expensive models, based on finish? As you have shown, even the matte bead blasted finish model cracked.
    I had a new old stock silver rough finish model. I think it was called 'Speedy'. I never dared to use it on a build.
    “You meet the nicest people on two wheels!"
    "Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow." ~Albert Einstein

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldsCOOL View Post
    Except for that aluminum headtube and entire frame....
    method i used involves cutting the stem and pulling the fork. but spot on all aluminium is on the menu.

  24. #24
    Senior Member DIMcyclist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimmyT View Post
    Did you try Sheldon Brown's ammonia trick? He uses it for stuck seat posts, but it should work for stems:
    14 Ways to Unstick a Seatpost

    See #8
    I tried that with a stuck stem wedge and it DID work. It soaked for fully a week, but in the end- it loosened the wedge enough that with a little jockeying, I was able to screw in an extra long stem bolt, and gently tap it out of the steerer without damaging the fork.
    Last edited by DIMcyclist; 03-14-14 at 12:27 AM.
    Trek 820 (650b), Univega Rover 10 (650b), Trek 930, Fuji League, Bridgestone RB-2, Bridgestone XO-3, Soma Smoothie ES, LeMond Buenos Aires, Torelli Corsa Strada

  25. #25
    Holy Spokes it's Batsman! Glennfordx4's Avatar
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    I have a Nishiki that had a nice SR stem stuck in the fork, I had to cut the stem to remove the fork from the frame. I then got a tall glass jar and filled it with Oxalic acid and put the stem & fork upside down in it, it took 2 1/2 weeks with me pouring OA down the steerer tube every other day before I was able to break it loose.

    Glenn


    So Many Bikes Too Little Space

    RECYCLING = FIXING AN OLD BICYCLE

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