Man I hate this!!! Black lightening fork.......
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Man I hate this!!! Black lightening fork.......
I'll try not to start anymore threads about this bike, but this is about a specific problem. The stem and fork are one. I inverted the frame and plugged the hole for the stem bolt and filled the entire fork tube with PB Blaster. Waited 24 hrs and twisted the stem as hard as I dared. I had a 2x4 in the fork legs as close to the top of the fork as possible. I am afraid that I'll distort or even destroy the fork. Is this fork anything special because its on a black lightening? I definitely do not want to damage the frame either. It makes me sick..........
#2
Keener splendor
Did you try Sheldon Brown's ammonia trick? He uses it for stuck seat posts, but it should work for stems:
14 Ways to Unstick a Seatpost
See #8
14 Ways to Unstick a Seatpost
See #8
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You need to break the corrosion between the stem and steered tube. Many had been successful using "Freeze-Off". Do a search and you can find out how to best use it. A couple of years ago, I was able to release a really badly stuck stem on one of my bikes by using Freeze-Off. Discovered the stuff after using all sorts of other penetrants, including PB Blaster for about a month of soaking, and careful twisting and pounding without success, till I used the Freeze-Off...and the stem came off only ten minutes after I used it!
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You need to break the corrosion between the stem and steered tube. Many had been successful using "Freeze-Off". Do a search and you can find out how to best use it. A couple of years ago, I was able to release a really badly stuck stem on one of my bikes by using Freeze-Off. Discovered the stuff after using all sorts of other penetrants, including PB Blaster for about a month of soaking, and careful twisting and pounding without success, till I used the Freeze-Off...and the stem came off only ten minutes after I used it!
#5
Still learning
Did you try tapping the stem down?
I have tried all the above chemicals and solvents on a seatpost, ended up cutting it out with a sawzall.
I have tried all the above chemicals and solvents on a seatpost, ended up cutting it out with a sawzall.
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I use this to hold the steer tubes, a 1" Tube holding block, I get mine from Paragon Machine. DO NOT USE A 2X4 WEDGED BETWEEN THE BLADES.
www.paragonmachineworks.com - FT4008TubeBlock1Bore134x2
The last Stuck stem I removed, I used heat. I held the steer tube with the blocks held in a vise. Then applied heat with a small propane torch to the stem only, then shocked it with cold water. I did that a few times, then let it cool. Came right out.
Note: I did cut the stem enough to be able to remove the fork from the frame.
www.paragonmachineworks.com - FT4008TubeBlock1Bore134x2
The last Stuck stem I removed, I used heat. I held the steer tube with the blocks held in a vise. Then applied heat with a small propane torch to the stem only, then shocked it with cold water. I did that a few times, then let it cool. Came right out.
Note: I did cut the stem enough to be able to remove the fork from the frame.
Last edited by Michael Angelo; 03-12-14 at 04:23 AM.
#7
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Thumpic, Patience! A leather mallet can shock a stem or seat post loose, just no John Henry power levels.
Brad
Brad
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Also, make sure you have the bottom wedge out of the stem body. Loosen the bolt, then strike it HARD with a steel hammer and punch. Some of the stems with the circular wedge (e.g. Modolo) can get stuck up in there...
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I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
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The fork was just regular Cannondale spec fork just black w/ gold decals.
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I had luck with my paconi with sodium hydroxide. Tried all mechanical methods including freezing as people have suggested. This is a LAST RESORT METHOD that is 100% certain to work. only use if you are understanding of the dangers of strong chemicals. Use it last. Oh and i love riding the paconi to this day. 531C with perfect geo for my build and shimano 600.
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I had luck with my paconi with sodium hydroxide. Tried all mechanical methods including freezing as people have suggested. This is a LAST RESORT METHOD that is 100% certain to work. only use if you are understanding of the dangers of strong chemicals. Use it last. Oh and i love riding the paconi to this day. 531C with perfect geo for my build and shimano 600.
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I have an alloy MODOLO stem thats been stuck in my 1989 Cannondale head tube since I bought it. I've tried everything to get it out. It was placed in almost all the way, and if I could just move it up about and inch and a half it would be perfect.
BTW...a MODOLO stem is also on a 1988 Centurion Ironman Master I bought a couple of years ago. Same thing, but this is one is black, not just the exposed alloy like on the Cannondale.
Is this a MODOLO issue**********????
BTW...a MODOLO stem is also on a 1988 Centurion Ironman Master I bought a couple of years ago. Same thing, but this is one is black, not just the exposed alloy like on the Cannondale.
Is this a MODOLO issue**********????
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Still learning
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Have you tried a can opener? Just teasing. And for what its worth, I've had good results using Kroil, patience, and a bit of force.
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No, Modolo stems have a different reputation. That's a 'death stem' that you have on the Centurion.
The Professional and Ex-tenos (sp?) had the bad habit of snapping from cracks around the binder bolt. There was a recall on these models back in the 80s.
The lesser models weren't recalled!
The fact both of yours are stuck is probably a coincidence. A lot of alloy stem/steel steerer seizure issues in old bikes were caused by lack of grease during installation.
Those in damp climates have a higher occurrence.
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I use to hate Bianchi Celeste. Then I woke up and started looking for a frame when the Moto died. Found one I was willing to purchase. Noticed the dents in the inside front and back of the fork blades. Must have had a stuck stem!
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No, Modolo stems have a different reputation. That's a 'death stem' that you have on the Centurion.
The Professional and Ex-tenos (sp?) had the bad habit of snapping from cracks around the binder bolt. There was a recall on these models back in the 80s.
The lesser models weren't recalled!
The fact both of yours are stuck is probably a coincidence. A lot of alloy stem/steel steerer seizure issues in old bikes were caused by lack of grease during installation.
Those in damp climates have a higher occurrence.
#22
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The Professional was on the list of recalled models.
I was stressing how could they have left off the less expensive models, based on finish? As you have shown, even the matte bead blasted finish model cracked.
I had a new old stock silver rough finish model. I think it was called 'Speedy'. I never dared to use it on a build.
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Did you try Sheldon Brown's ammonia trick? He uses it for stuck seat posts, but it should work for stems:
14 Ways to Unstick a Seatpost
See #8
14 Ways to Unstick a Seatpost
See #8
Last edited by DIMcyclist; 03-14-14 at 12:27 AM.
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I have a Nishiki that had a nice SR stem stuck in the fork, I had to cut the stem to remove the fork from the frame. I then got a tall glass jar and filled it with Oxalic acid and put the stem & fork upside down in it, it took 2 1/2 weeks with me pouring OA down the steerer tube every other day before I was able to break it loose.
Glenn
Glenn