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  1. #1
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    Found what appears to be a Klein mountain bike frame at co-op but its rough, save it?

    At the co-op today, we were donated a really rough bike. The bike looked like it was owned by a poor homeless person. The front cheap suspension fork steerer was way too short so the owner slammed the stem as far down as it could go and tightened the hell out of it to keep the upper bearing and race sort of in place. The right pedal was held with with a nut, the threads on the crank were long gone. Lots of other problems. The bike was found in a dumpster and donated. The front derailleur was trashed. The rear derailleur was a very nice clean Deore LX which we saved. The rear wheel was junk.

    Anyway, the frame looks like a Klein from the nineties. It is an all alloy frame and has the concealed cable paths. The frame is quite rough though, needs to be completely stripped and repainted.

    The odd thing is that it has press in BB bearings instead of standard threaded cups. Can that BB be threaded like a standard threaded english BB?

    There is minor damage to the frame but it looks like it could be sanded and smoothed out. No fork. I would probably powder coat the frame once I clean it up. The press in BB bearings scare me.


    I will post pictures soon.
    "When dealing with stuff like this consider that this is a bicycle, not a spaceship." -- FBinNY

  2. #2
    Is a real super guy. Henry III's Avatar
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    If you don't have the spindle then it can be a nightmare. The bearings are just standard that you can get anywhere. That old saying free things can be the most expensive. Not saying it's free you know what I mean. The spindles do show up on ebay though.

  3. #3
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    Well I do have the spindle. So is it just a matter of getting the right bearings and pressing them back in? We had problems with the crankset. The crankset had standard Shimano arms on it but the non-driveside was frozen on there so much that when we tried removing it, the threads on the crank arm stripped out (yes we removed the bolt and the washer). So we just used a pickle fork to take the arm off (normally works fine). The problem is that when we did that, it pulled the spindle out of the bearings. The drive side bearing got pushed into the BB area. We finally knocked the spindle out using an aluminum punch so the threads on the spindle aren't hurt but not sure about the bearings. I would just replace the bearings if they are standard. But is the spindle just a press on fit to the bearings?

    I still need to upload the pictures.
    "When dealing with stuff like this consider that this is a bicycle, not a spaceship." -- FBinNY

  4. #4
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    Here are the pics: My plans would be to sand it all down, smooth out the dings and rough areas, paint it or if I can afford it, powder coat it, and then move all of my drop bar components from my drop bar Rockhopper over to this frame. I would probably use the Rockhopper fork for now until something better comes along.

    I like the internal cable routing but at the same time it scares me with the problems that some have with internal cable routing installation.


    I didn't measure it but I wonder if a 1 1/8" threadless steerer would fit?






    Last edited by bobotech; 03-17-14 at 10:59 AM.
    "When dealing with stuff like this consider that this is a bicycle, not a spaceship." -- FBinNY

  5. #5
    Senior Member miamijim's Avatar
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    Dont waste your time or money.

    That's a garden variety frame and has no inherent value.
    WWW.CYCLESPEUGEOT.COM 2005 Pinarello Dogma; 1991 Paramount PDG 70 Mtb; 1976? AD Vent Noir; 1989 LeMond Maillot Juane F&F; 1993? Basso GAP F&F; 1989 Terry Symmetry; 2003 Trek 4700 Mtb; 1983 Vitus 979

  6. #6
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    "When dealing with stuff like this consider that this is a bicycle, not a spaceship." -- FBinNY

  7. #7
    Stop reading my posts! unworthy1's Avatar
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    Save it!
    Smooth out that rough chainstay, whatever else you do...
    The cart bearings should have all the info you need to ID them right on the rubber seals, if not then all you need is to measure all 3 dimensions (ID, OD, thickness) with metric calipers, then go to a bearing house.
    With a big bench vise and some sockets you should be able to press them in and on, yourself...or find a competent LBS or machine shop that does press-work...remind them it's an aluminum BB shell so gorilla-strength not required (or desired).

  8. #8
    surly old man jgedwa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miamijim View Post
    Dont waste your time or money.

    That's a garden variety frame and has no inherent value.
    Maybe its a garden variety Klein, but that is some distance away from a garden variety garden variety I think.

    This one could use paint, but otherwise, it will not be as hard to build up as some Kleins are. Normal Headset. Normal size of fork steerer. Those bearing can be found at any bearing supplier. Completely worth rehabbing.

    jim
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  9. #9
    WNG
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    I wouldn't waste too much money on it, it's not one of their models with the the beryllium impregnated stays.
    Besides, that right chainstay appears to have lost quite a bit of material from being scored by the pedal 'nut'. It's been compromised, even though it's at a lower stress spot.
    “You meet the nicest people on two wheels!"
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  10. #10
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    It is pretty big but if your looking at a drop bar conversion that may be a plus.

    what's with the Torelli?

    Bianchis '87 Sport SX, '90 Proto (2), '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '88 Trofeo, '86 Volpe, '89 Axis, '79 Mixte SOLD, '99 Mega Pro XL Ti, '97 Ti Megatube, , '90 something Vento 603,

    Others but still loved,; '80 RIGI, '80 Batavus Professional, '87 Cornelo, '86 Bertoni (sold), '09 Motobecane SS, '98 Hetchins M.O., '09 K2 Mainframe, '89 Trek 2000, '?? Jane Doe (still on the drawing board), '90ish Haro Escape

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by unworthy1 View Post
    Save it!
    Smooth out that rough chainstay, whatever else you do...
    The cart bearings should have all the info you need to ID them right on the rubber seals, if not then all you need is to measure all 3 dimensions (ID, OD, thickness) with metric calipers, then go to a bearing house.
    With a big bench vise and some sockets you should be able to press them in and on, yourself...or find a competent LBS or machine shop that does press-work...remind them it's an aluminum BB shell so gorilla-strength not required (or desired).
    Quote Originally Posted by WNG View Post
    I wouldn't waste too much money on it, it's not one of their models with the the beryllium impregnated stays.
    Besides, that right chainstay appears to have lost quite a bit of material from being scored by the pedal 'nut'. It's been compromised, even though it's at a lower stress spot.
    Bad news. The gouges from the chainstay aren't all that bad. I was going to just smooth them out and buff them so that the whole frame was nice and smooth like it was when it was new and then paint it something simple like white which has a tendency to hide imperfections in the paint. Dark colors magnify imperfections. So I spent the afternoon searching for a decent lighter 26" front chomoly fork with canti posts. The best one we had weighed in at about 2 pounds 2 ounces. Not that light but the frame was only 4 pounds 6 ounces so the frameset would still be 6 pounds 8 ounces. Quite a bit lighter than my 9+ pound Rockhopper frame/fork.


    So I brought the frame to my buddies at another bike shop here in town to get their opinion on it and they were all oohh and aahing over it until we noticed the gouge under the top tube. Literally looks like someone shot it with a .22 *****.


    Kind of puts a damper on having a nice alloy frame for a nice commuter. I guess I could sand the gouge down and fill it with bondo and then paint over it but not sure how well bondo will hold to an alloy frame.

    As for the bearings, I have a 20 ton shop hydraulic press that I would use to press everything back into place properly. I was thinking of finding a thin steel tube that was just under the size of the BB shell and cutting it to fit inside the shell and the bearings and act as a spacer so I could press the bearings in place and not need the special tools. That way I could press the spindle in to the right spot and it won't move the bearings. The BB is a smooth shell, no c-clip grooves like on older Gary Fishers.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
    It is pretty big but if your looking at a drop bar conversion that may be a plus.

    what's with the Torelli?

    LOL I was wondering when someone was going to notice that. None of us at the co-op like it only for the fact that it has u-brakes and not normal canti-posts. Its in okay shape. If you really are interested, I can facilitate. I bet it would cost about 38 dollars or so to ship the frame. I think the fork is present too.
    "When dealing with stuff like this consider that this is a bicycle, not a spaceship." -- FBinNY

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobotech View Post
    Bad news. The gouges from the chainstay aren't all that bad. I was going to just smooth them out and buff them so that the whole frame was nice and smooth like it was when it was new and then paint it something simple like white which has a tendency to hide imperfections in the paint. Dark colors magnify imperfections. So I spent the afternoon searching for a decent lighter 26" front chomoly fork with canti posts. The best one we had weighed in at about 2 pounds 2 ounces. Not that light but the frame was only 4 pounds 6 ounces so the frameset would still be 6 pounds 8 ounces. Quite a bit lighter than my 9+ pound Rockhopper frame/fork.


    So I brought the frame to my buddies at another bike shop here in town to get their opinion on it and they were all oohh and aahing over it until we noticed the gouge under the top tube. Literally looks like someone shot it with a .22 *****.


    Kind of puts a damper on having a nice alloy frame for a nice commuter. I guess I could sand the gouge down and fill it with bondo and then paint over it but not sure how well bondo will hold to an alloy frame.

    As for the bearings, I have a 20 ton shop hydraulic press that I would use to press everything back into place properly. I was thinking of finding a thin steel tube that was just under the size of the BB shell and cutting it to fit inside the shell and the bearings and act as a spacer so I could press the bearings in place and not need the special tools. That way I could press the spindle in to the right spot and it won't move the bearings. The BB is a smooth shell, no c-clip grooves like on older Gary Fishers.

    LOL I was wondering when someone was going to notice that. None of us at the co-op like it only for the fact that it has u-brakes and not normal canti-posts. Its in okay shape. If you really are interested, I can facilitate. I bet it would cost about 38 dollars or so to ship the frame. I think the fork is present too.
    OLD Kleins MTB's are not particularity known for ride quality, I'd be focusing in on the Torelli...

  13. #13
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobotech View Post
    LOL I was wondering when someone was going to notice that. None of us at the co-op like it only for the fact that it has u-brakes and not normal canti-posts. Its in okay shape. If you really are interested, I can facilitate. I bet it would cost about 38 dollars or so to ship the frame. I think the fork is present too.
    U brake? So it a MTB interesting... Any tubing decals?
    Bianchis '87 Sport SX, '90 Proto (2), '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '88 Trofeo, '86 Volpe, '89 Axis, '79 Mixte SOLD, '99 Mega Pro XL Ti, '97 Ti Megatube, , '90 something Vento 603,

    Others but still loved,; '80 RIGI, '80 Batavus Professional, '87 Cornelo, '86 Bertoni (sold), '09 Motobecane SS, '98 Hetchins M.O., '09 K2 Mainframe, '89 Trek 2000, '?? Jane Doe (still on the drawing board), '90ish Haro Escape

  14. #14
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
    U brake? So it a MTB interesting... Any tubing decals?
    I will take some pictures when I see it again on Friday. I can't remember what the decals said.
    "When dealing with stuff like this consider that this is a bicycle, not a spaceship." -- FBinNY

  15. #15
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    One word,
    Kleiningham. Think I am kidding, google it.
    Fun project for those of us who can't afford a real Cunningham


    Not seeing the damage but it appears someone messed up the outlet for the rear canti cable guide, probably when converting it to V brakes.
    Seek: Early 80's Mountain Goat Bar/Stem Combo.

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