spudly

Hi all,
I'm found a nice older (early 90's, I believe) titanium frame that I'm thinking of buying. It was made by Merlin in Cambridge or Sommerville, MA. I like it, versus most titanium bikes I've seen, because it has very smooth welds that look wonderful (though are not stronger than the more common welds). Being older, it also has down tube shifter braze-ons, which is good as I have an almost new Dura Ace 7 speed group I'd like to put on it. The possible problem is that the steerer is 1". The frame comes with an original aluminum fork that I wouldn't really want to use, but aren't 1" threaded carbon fiber forks hard to find? Note that if I have a reasonably good chance of being able to find a nice NOS one on ebay within a few months or so, that wouldn't be a problem, but I'd rather not buy a used cf fork. I just want to repeat that the frame/fork is in great condition and really beautiful and, in part for aesthetics, would rather go the down tube shifter/threaded fork/older stem route unless it's a really stupid move. Thanks, in advance, for any input.

unworthy1

an old merlin like that could be an awesome ride...friend of mine has one and loves it.
1" threaded CF forks ARE hard to find but not impossible, a 1" threadLESS CF fork might be easier but not what I'd call "easy". The one that will take a while is a NEW 1" threaded CF fork with the right length steerer. If you just want to get it on the road, maybe install a good steel fork while you're looking/waiting.

JayGK927

That bike sounds like an awesome find. Also, I do not think a 1inch new carbon fork would be that hard of a find. First, (not of the highest quality) but a quick search yields several threadless carbon forks one from nashbar. Second, couldn't you replace the threaded headset with a threadless 1inch headset, then there are many options including a nice ritchey carbon fork.

williwoods

If you look on Ebay there is a nice looking titanium 1" fork by Rikalu. I hear good things about them. Its a little on the pricey side but a titanium fork would be the ultimate for that bike.

I was looking at buying one for my wife's 90's titanium litespeed to replace the aluminum fork on it now.

I wouldn't put a CF fork on that bike. steel or ti only for me.

Wildwood 

This is what I would do. Go 1" threadless.

Chrome Molly

Wiggle has a threadless 1 inch carbon steerer fork that would be great on that bike. It's a bit flexy, but unless you're descending like a madman you'll probably never have any issues.

They go in and out of stock, mainly because they're the only show in town when it comes to really light forks for 1 inch frames. Threadless will involve more changes to the setup, but will save you more weight over a threaded carbon fork.
wiggle.com | Columbus Minimal Road Forks | Road Forks

Another option is the one from Nashbar. I have a couple thousand miles on one of those, and they ride nicely.

Also as mentioned, you can't go wrong with a ti fork on a ti bike.

One inch headset is minor inconvenience.

IthaDan 

Doooo it. What size is the frame? I have a couple threaded carbon forks in the stockpile.

Salubrious

My understanding is that TI forks are whippy.

I was facing the same dilemma. I found a Titus TI road frame (Titus is only known for MTB frames so this one must be fairly early) I had a local frame builder make a 1" fork out of Reynolds stainless 953. Most of the 1" CFs you see are cheap Chinese forks. If the bike falls over even once you will want to consider replacing the fork from what I hear (from from frame builders that make steel and stainless frames...). The front fork seemed to me a bad place for things to go wrong if you know what I mean.

Whlie the fork was being made I installed a Tange 1' threadless fork so I could ride it. With it the bike was a little unstable descending a really steep hill; when I installed the 953 fork that mostly went away. With the Rolhoff hub the finished bike weighs about 20 pounds.

The Thin Man 

This is a great solution.
After working with a local frame builder for some additions to a frame (pre-paint), I realized how affordable they were and how happy you can be knowing you are getting exactly what you want rather than settling or waiting months and months to score some obscure deal on eBay... only to be sniped 4 seconds before it ends.

KonAaron Snake 

I have an early 90s Cambridge Merlin; it is the finest riding production road bike I've had the pleasure of riding. I absolutely love that bike. Buy it. Use the aluminum fork until you get one that you want, there's nothing wrong with them. The reason you don't see many ti forks is because it's very, very expensive and difficult to get ti into that shape - and there isn't much advantage over steel or other materials. Th exist, but are definitely uncommon.

Depending on the size of your frame, I might be interested in acquiring that fork from you.

She ain't pretty, but damn does she work well.

Italuminium

Now don't lie Aaron, that is a pretty bike.

A guy in my riding group is rocking an older Ti frame (straight top tube, polished like a mirror) with a 1" TIME straight blade CF fork. It looks like mighty fine, you might want to look those up.

RobbieTunes

I ran a Kisch Ti frame with a Performance/Nashbar 1" threaded CF fork, and it was great.
Since I'm no longer winning TdF titles, I didn't notice any ride problems whatsoever.

I think the Ti frame, especially a Merlin, looks amazing with some of the black quill stems out there (Cinelli, Syntace, System components) and not so nice with the "thicker" stems, like the Profile H2O or many of the threadless stems (with the exception of a 3TTT Forgie). Something about an unpolished Ti frame and matte black post and stem just look cool tome.

I'd stay 1" threaded as option 1, then 1" threadless as option 2 and there are plenty of shims out there (many stems come with them).
I think I paid $20 for a NIB Cane Creek Aheadset on a Kestrel I converted to 1" threadless because some fool cut off the steerer.

Just my 2 cents worth, and in all likliehood, not worth that.

american psycho 

Put a 1" threadless carbon fork on it - they come up on eBay often and the headsets are also widely available.

I went with a Colnago Star to match the frame, and a Record Threadless for the lowest stack height and to match the Group.

IthaDan 

My ti:

Did a threaded to threadless conversion on this merckx, had the fork already, so it went without much issue.
As purchased:


Now:


Bonus ti fork action:


On this:

blilrat

That is one of the best threadless conversions I've seen.

That is one early Litespeed. '89?

Cache

Totes Jelly! (Which translates to Totally Jealous!!). Nice ride!

Salubrious

late 80s/early 90s Titus road frame with Reynolds 953 stainless front fork

Rolhoff hub, Campy crank, Brooks Ti B-17, composite bars, Zero G dual pivot brakes, DT Swiss triple-butted spokes on Mavic semi-V rims. No dérailleurs for a naturally satisfying ride

dddd

If it was my Merlin (btw I once owned one of Steve Hegg's custom-made Merlin Ti road bikes with that same alloy fork) I would keep the original fork on the bike.

The frame was designed to use that fork, not to say that there isn't possibly a fork out there which will work better in some way.

I wish I hadn't sold the Merlin, but I was somewhat naïve 18 years ago and was happy to make just $80 on the flip after buying the bike from one of his relatives.

spudly

Hey all, Thanks for the great advice/input! I'll probably get it (still negotiating with the seller), and, if so, will post a pic. I'll probably start out with the aluminum fork and start looking around for a replacement if it doesn't feel right. By the way, those of you that posted pics of your TI's have some nice looking bikes!

Wildwood 

Mine is made by Merlin for Excel Sports in Boulder.
Macalu Cirrus.

.

dddd

That's an interesting name, since there was a frame tubing called Macsteel in the 1980's, originally made for aerospace use but also brazed into TT bikes by a builder named Edmund Polchlopek, who died in an auto accident a few years back.

But your frame isn't aluminum, so the name doesn't refer to the material.

Your brake levers look to be set rather low on the bars, and the bars seem set a bit high, perhaps both could be corrected at the same time if you wanted to experiment.
Racing handlebars really aren't meant to provide a level top ramp out to the lever hoods. The hoods are intended to be much lower for when the rider is leaning way forward during a sprint or attacking a very steep grade.
But of course many riders use the hoods for when cruising along, with convenient shifting access.

Someone here might want to know what brand of carbon fork your bike has, did it come with that fork?

Wildwood 

The fork is Real Design and was original to the frame. Real Design was a brand made by (or produced for) Litespeed.

Here's what I know about the frame (which I have owned for 6 years). Excel Sports in Boulder was one of the largest distributors for Merlin, and for a few years (maybe 2 or 3) in early 2000s they had a house brand called Macalu with 2 models. Merlin had been bought by Litespeed and the Massachusetts plant was being phased out. As best I could learn, the Macalu bikes may have been a way of using up the Merlin tube inventory. The 'Cirrus' model that I have shares most of the tubes from the Extralight. The 'Professional' model had slacker angles and did not use OS tubing. I have not been able to determine if it was made in the MA Merlin factory or the TN Litespeed plant. Are there any Excel Sports/Merlin experts with more knowledge?

Thanks for the handlebar/shifter placement info. The angle of the front wheel in the pic may have skewed the view. Here are my other modern bikes for your critique.



Edit -- Hey Spudly - make sure you update us on your decision, inquiring minds want to know if you go threadless, threaded, or buy a new custom fork.

spudly

It's a 54 cm with a 13.5 cm head tube. Please let me know if you have anything that might work. Thanks!

Wildwood 

Spudly - If this question is directed at me, then YES, I may have something for you. I have envisioned converting the Calfee (yellow bike in above thumbnail) from threaded to threadless - all 1" of course. It's a Cane Creek headset and a Forte all carbon (fork+steerer) from Performance's mail order. I will try to get more info on the fork's specs. Maybe an update tomorrow.

GrayJay

I bought a very nice Macalu badged taiwanese TIG steel MTB frame from Excel way back in 1994, they definitly had the Macalu label in use for longer than just 2-3 years.

I rode the same macalu MTB frame for 15+ years before I then I attacked it with a hacksaw and brazing torch, sucessfully converted it into what is quite possibly the first and only Macalu brand snow fatbike.