TheTeaHermit

Every good story needs to have setting and character established, so let's get that out of the way quickly. So there I was, having just finished up a chat with one of my girlfriend's co-workers about bicycles and my desire to find a project bike that fit me and was worth putting money into. I had, over the last year, done minor maintenance and cleaning to a Raleigh Record that was just a size or two too small (Damn my 36" inseam), and I was expressing to him that I was really bummed that I couldn't find a a new project and that I didn't want to put any money into the Record since it was A) too small, and B) low-end to begin with. The very next day, to my surprise, I got an email reply from a guy 40 miles away who had a frame for sale in my size. Lo-and-behold, it was a Comp TA frame. Upon doing cursory research on the frame I decided to snatch it up. I drove 40 miles and paid $50 for the frame and fork. I fell in love instantly with the frame.

Fast forward a few days, and quite a bit more research later and I realized it's going to be quite a bit of work to get this bike up to par. This is my first entire build, and I am going in more or less blind with no assistance from any LBS (The two here in town are very unhelpful, and unless you're buying something new and expensive they're not interested in your sale).

What I have salvaged from my other project and will probably be replaced sooner rather than later is the quill stem and bars. I've also got a set of Tektro brake levers I'll probably end up using unless I decide to go with brifters on this build. I've currently got a Ritchey triple crankset , a Shimano 5500 BB, a Tange headset (The one on there now is missing bearings and is being used as a placeholder), and a new seatpost on order.

I'm trying to do this build on somewhat of a budget. I'm a college student, and although I've got a pretty decent paying job, I can't drop inordinate amounts of money on parts. So please bare with me if you feel like I am cheaping out on parts. Better ones will come later, it just will be over time.

Here starts the questions, and I hope you don't mind me asking them because I have a bunch.

The first is in terms of touching up the paint on my frame. There are a few spots I want to touch up, what paint is suggested for doing this? I've read nail polish, I've read model paint, I've read auto touch up paint. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with a frame of similar color and perhaps had a suggestion for which one blended in the best.

Secondly, my next purchase will probably be a set of brakes. My question in regards to that is whether or not anyone knows if this bike accepts recessed brake mounts. It looks like it does, and to the best of my research I think I've found out that it indeed does, I just want to be 100% sure before I order something.

Any one have any suggestions for what other components to pick up for the bike? I still need both derailleurs, shifters, pedals, a wheelset, a cassette, chain, saddle, and then of course various odds and ends like cables, bar tape, housings and all that. Am I missing anything glaring?

Also, what color seat and saddle? The components are all silver/chrome so far.

Let me know what you guys think. I can't wait to be able to ride this frame.

RobbieTunes

Welcome to the forum, and to the Centurion group of retrogrouch cultists.

The first is in terms of touching up the paint on my frame. There are a few spots I want to touch up, what paint is suggested for doing this? I used to have the exact color in a Duplicolor touch up paint. I sent it off with a frame (like that one.) Try an auto parts store and see if they have a chart. Carry the frame with you.

Secondly, my next purchase will probably be a set of brakes. What's wrong with the Tektros? My question in regards to that is whether or not anyone knows if this bike accepts recessed brake mounts. Yes, recessed. It looks like it does, and to the best of my research I think I've found out that it indeed does, I just want to be 100% sure before I order something.

Any one have any suggestions for what other components to pick up for the bike? It came with Shimano 600 (6200EX). It will take about any road components you want to throw at it. That color looks great with polished or even the grey anodized Shimano 6400 series. They are very reasonablty found.

I still need both derailleurs, shifters, pedals, a wheelset, a cassette, chain, saddle, and then of course various odds and ends like cables, bar tape, housings and all that. Am I missing anything glaring? No. I'll send you a PM, and you respond to my email address with a list of what you DO have, and we can go from there.

Also, what color seat and saddle? (Same thing). The components are all silver/chrome so far. Can't go far wrong with black, and save some donero in the process.

I'm sure your research found the Comp TA was the predecessor to the famous Dave Scott Ironman series. The Comp TA was made of Tange 2 tubing, and the 1985 Ironman was pretty much a rebadged version of the Comp TA.

BF Member A.Winthrop has at least two Ironman models, two Comp TA's, and a Lemans RS. His opinion is that the Comp TA has a superior long-day ride. I think that's a pretty fair assessment. Best of both worlds (Tange 1 and Comp TA geometry) is the '85, but honestly, the 2 oz of extra weight on the TA is not something my butt can discern.

oddjob2

The Comp TA is a great rider and a pretty rare bird, enjoy it. If you need a reference bike, here ya go. Box stock, but for the tires and RD.


Corrected per Frantik's sharp eye below.

frantik

^ RD can't be stock..

RobbieTunes

That's what he said....
You're slippin' (could be Diamondback Fever)

Catnap 

what kind of stem is that? i've never seen one with a side clamp before.

TheTeaHermit

Awesome, thanks for the reference picture. I've been doing image searches trying to find pictures worth referencing for how I'd like to build up the bike, and you must be correct in that it's rare as I've found only a handful or so pictures of it. I feel pretty lucky for getting an email out of the blue with a guy who had the frame and was willing to see it at what I consider a decent price. Prior to this, I had been looking over the used market for a large portion of Illinois for a decent frame in my size, and to think one would just fall on me like this. Awesome. I get more excited by the day to have this thing built.

Oh, and RobbieTunes, I have the Tektro brake levers, which I actually find very nice, but I don't have any brakes yet. Thanks for the info, I'm glad to have more of an idea of what I need to go forward.

oddjob2

On the visible part it says Custom with an R under it, so it probably is an SR stem.

To the OP, a suggestion regarding tires. While I have 28mm on them, bridge clearance is minimal. I'd suggest you go with 25mm.

headset

Recognizing how many parts you still need it might be worth looking for a donor bike. In my experience this is often the most cost effective way to get a frame up and running. You can fine tune component selection after you confirmed it fits and you like the ride/handling characteristics of the frame.

Cool project (and in my size!)

Good luck

TheTeaHermit

I've got the ders off of an old road bike, nothing fancy, but will work. I will probably end up throwing those on there for the time being, and shop around for nicer parts. My costliest bit will probably be a wheelset. I've got a set of stem shifters off of said old bike, but I really hate them. I never could get comfortable with shifting using them. I'm trying to decide if I want to update it towards modern and go with brifters, which if is the case I'll probably buy a more modern group for it as well, or if I want to keep it true to it's roots and go with some down tube shifters, or maybe throw caution to the wind and go with barcons.

Regarding the bits jutting out from the side of the downtube, are those meant to be where the shifters mount? Are these a proprietary design, or will it be relatively easily to find shifters that mount to them? (If that is the case)

TheTeaHermit

I just realized that the FD I pulled off of my Raleigh was for a double, I'm getting a triple for this bike. Will I probably need to get a new FD? I don't know what the range on it is, it's old bottom-line SunTour.

oddjob2

Spend the $12 for an annual membership here, list what you need in the way of 600ex parts under the for sale forum. Lot cheaper than ebay parts. If you let people know what region you're in, you might snag a decent set of rims too without shipping.

RobbieTunes

If you're going triple, I have your FD (105). Free.
I have a set of wheels, so PM me on the ones we discussed (126mm 8/9/10). You'll need to pay shipping only.
I think the Sunrace DT shifters would be to your liking, and cost-effective, they should fit on those DT bosses.
You'll need a long-cage RD, depending on whether you go indexed or not, and there are plenty of triple cranksets.
At this point, I think you're very well off, $$-wise, to go 9-sp DT with Sunrace.
The Tektro brake levers are good, and you just need some decent calipers.

Available if you want/need them. Centurion owners tend to look out for one another. As do many here.
Since you're going triple, we'll need to drag you to the Dairyland Dare.

Vintage_Cyclist

If I'm not mistaken, the 84 Centurion Comp TA has the same Shimano proprietary shifter bosses as the the 85 Centurion Ironman (and other period bikes). These are rounded with a keyhole tab at the top of the boss, unlike the standard square bosses normally used. Additionally, they're threaded for M4.5 bolts instead of the normal M5 bolts.

versus


If you're going with brifters, finding shifters isn't an issue, but you'll need to modify a pair of shifter cable stops to fit these bosses.

This link explains how to do it The Kodiak saga continues | The Simplicity of Vintage Cycles

M4.5 fixing bolts are hard to get, but are still available at Loose Screws. Theses are Dura Ace Shifter screws with a D ring cover that will need to be removed (see picture at the Loose Screws link above). Just put it into a vise with the screw end facing upwards and gently tap it with a hammer to loosen it up, so you can remove everything from the screw. The screw may, or may not have to be cut down slightly depending on the frame bosses. On my 85 Ironman I had to remove about 1/8 inch from one to make it completely tighten down the cable stop to the shifter boss on the front derailleur side.

Use shifter cable stops that are as rounded as possible to provide the maximum amount of internal cable stop space when you remove some of the inner material to fit the cable stops. This will make it easier to get the cable stops to sit flush against the frame tubing. The ones I used had flat sides (like the sides of a pyramid) and can't fit completely flush against the frame tubing (about 1/16 of an inch gap).

If you decide to go with downtube shifters, Loose Screws also sells Shimano Z-401 downtube shifters that supposedly go with these weirdo shifter bosses. I haven't tried them myself.

If you try looking for other compatible Shimano shifters, the model numbers will have the suffix FAI, which should all fit these downtube Braze-On A-Type/M4.5 bosses.

You're other option would be to modify the bosses themselves by removing material from the bosses to jury-rig a fit for shifters that fit normal bosses. There is a thread here on this process at https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ter-style.html

rccardr 

Vintage, you beat me to it. Those older Shimano-specific downtube braze-ons will have to be modified if you intend to fit anything more modern than Shimano 6207 friction shifters. But, as I've discovered with my '85 Ironman with a modern rear hub laced to the original Araya rim, 10 speed double works just fine with friction shifters, and they polish up beautifully to boot:




For reference, as new:

TheTeaHermit

Thanks a bunch for the reply. I remember reading somewhere that these were an odd style shifter boss. I'll have to weigh my options on what I want to do with this one. I'm still very much a neophyte when it comes to bicycle maintenance and all that, and doing any direct modification to it is a bit scary. For ease of installation I might just go with a set of shifters designed to be used with the bosses.

TheTeaHermit

Wow, that is absolutely gorgeous! I know what to aspire to now! I was playing around with the idea of using white bar tape and a white saddle. I didn't think about using white cable housing, it really ties it together. Don't hate me if I steal that color scheme, 'kay? It just looks positively fantastic.

TheTeaHermit

Thanks for keeping in touch, I emailed you. I would PM you, but I can't until I reach my post limit. Did you receive my email?

Vintage_Cyclist

I was somehow unaware of these proprietary bosses until I got my 85 Ironman frame to build-up. After I got over my WTF moment and did some problem-solving research, I elected to go with modified cable stops and bar-end shifters.

TheTeaHermit

Just got back from the shop with a few things. Gonna polish up the metal, and touch up the paint. I am pretty sure I got about as close as I can to the color in touch up paint. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

uncle uncle

I have an 85 Ironman.... after finding out that the threads on one of the shifter bosses had already been "reamed" by the previous owner installing a 5mm screw in an attempt to use a more normal/later issue shimano shift lever. Fortunately, a local bike shop was able to clean up the semi-damaged threads and ream the other shifter boss out to the more standard 5mm thread diameter. They also modified some cable stops to fit onto the shimano proprietary bosses. One of my bosses was so shallow that even the correct vintage shift levers would not stay in position correctly. I'm in the process of mounting era correct bar ends as a fix.

TheTeaHermit

I swapped one of my other bike's 700c wheels over to this one to see how it fit, and I measured what would be the brake reach. It was like 53mm, does that sound right? If that's the case, I am thinking about using these calipers on the build.

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Unless someone has a better suggestion. I obviously don't want to skimp out on a brakeset, but I don't want to drop a ton into one either at the moment.

I am also contemplating going with the linked shifters from Loose Screws as I am having a hell of a time finding anything else that seems like it would work.

RobbieTunes

I've got some 47-57's, but they'd cost you more than that (Shimano R650).
Try also the Tektro R559, may be a lot cheaper and still reach just fine.

Try looking at SunRace DT shifters. Their mounting platess will go on those bosses.
The biggest problem I ever had was finding M4.5 screws without buying 100.

Lascauxcaveman 

So just mail him a couple with the other bits you're gonna send him

Chicago Al 

I've bought Tektro brake sets from Bike Island, good deals and fast shipping. Sorry to not see the very nice and cheap R200 aero levers on the site now; they are apparently discontinued.