kunsunoke 

You're going to need a SunTour freewheel tool to get the Alpha off of the hub. If you're taking the wheels in for truing, you could probably have the LBS do that for you. Shimano's current line of freewheels uses the same tool as their cassettes do, so that one would be worth buying at some point in the future.

DiegoFrogs

I don't think the splines are quite the same on the freewheel and cassette tools. That's why I use two separate Park tools for those purposes.

jaciche

Alright so I've taken it for 2 rides for a total of about 30 miles. I enjoy riding it more than my hybrid, that's for sure. So far I've bought new tires, saddle, and real bar tape. I'm starting to realize that sticking a bunch of money into this bike isn't worth it. The only other things that need to be done to have this bike where i want it function wise is to have the derailers adjusted and to have the front wheel true.

I took the front wheel to my LBS and asked if they could true it. He said it's a bad idea, because the spokes and nipples are rusted and corroeded, and wrenching on them could break them or crack the rim. He said to ride it as it for as long as possible, then buy a front wheel or wheelset for it when needed/desired.

The only other things I'm considering still is getting a better freewheel that has been advised before. I missed the opportunity to buy a Shimano HG freewheel before, but would these older freewheels be an improvement? I'm not sure that the dura-ace is an "HG"
Shimano Dura Ace 6 Speed Freewheel MF 7400 13 26 Road Touring Bike Cassette | eBay
Shimano Freewheel 6 Speed MF HG20 14 28 Tooth | eBay

Let me know if those links don't work. But the first is a used dura-ace 6 speed, and the second is a HG620 SIS. The shifting is ok now, I think it could be much better if the derailers were adjusted, hence me wondering if a new freewheel is worth it...

GordoTrek

an lbs wouldn't true your wheel? come on... thats lame.. learn how to do it yourself.. buy a spoke wrench..i hate how some LBS are so bent on up selling you instead of just selling you what you need, don't go back to that shop..

learn the difference between cassette and freewheel, i wouldn't put any dura ace on that bike , i would buy a brand new 6/7/8 spd freewheel from amazon, 15+5 s/h 20 bucks easy peasy.
don't buy a used freewheel.
here ya go...
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-TZ2...peed+freewheel

while your at it throw in a chain too..
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-6-...c+6speed+chain

crank_addict

Some quick suggestions. You mentioned not getting too buried into the bike. I agree. No pun intended but your at the 'tall' side of valuation and sorry your LBS is leading you in the wrong direction. Find another but also, you've really got the best resource and help from this site.

Here's what I would do. Keep the wheels and FW. Do invest in a few basic tools. Proper FW removal tool, chain whip, set of flat spanners, chain removal tool, spoke wrench, plier/cutters, etc..

With a very light penetrant, get some around the spoke nipples. Let it soak and then wipe down. Deflate the tires or just temporarily remove. I'll bet I could get everyone of the spokes moving. There's no torque and its teenie weenie threads.... not like its a car lugnut or something- LOL. Read up on basic wheel trueing and just do it while the wheels are on the bike. It shouldn't take that much effort or time. Don't get carried away and use minimal twist and done evenly.

Someone mentioned earlier of removing the rear cluster. The tool is $6. Get it and own it. Clean it to where you could eat of off of it. Clean the chainrings too. Get every bit of old grease off stuck deep in the teeth. Oh yeah, while at it remove the dork disc.

BUY A NEW CHAIN - $13

Toss the stem shifters away and get a pair of downtube shifters for near nothing on the forum FS or trade threads.

Take the cables down, inspect, clean, or use the inners- SHORTENED to proper length for the replacement DT shifters.

Super duty clean the derailleurs, lube and dial them in. You should have a crisp shifter when done right. You're not racing and rapid shifts don't mean anything. Keep in mind your on the C&V forum and leaning that direction. The rapid index can of course be the sweetness or a nuisance on a bike. IMHO, over rated in the must have for most. The DT shifters are so simple, light, take crash damage and the bonus - CHEAPO.

Looks like you've have a nice foundation of a bike and no doubt anxious to get on it. However I would probably strip it down completely, clean every little stinken' part and bearing, fastener, clean the frame, coat the inside tubes, lube all and re-assemble. BTW: Could make those wheels looking near new including the original spokes. You'll ride with confidence in the equipment and know everything about the bike. Have fun and maybe some time will meet on a C&V ride.

wrk101

+10 Don't buy a used freewheel. A new one can be had for around $10.

+1 Shops don't want to mess around with parts that have condition issues. They don't want to be stuck holding the bag. Buy a $3 spoke wrench and true them yourself.

+1 KMC Z33 or Z50 chain will work fine. You also need a freewheel tool and a chain tool.

Myself, I don't reuse rusty cables. New stainless cables can be found on line for about $2 each.

Velocivixen

Here's the rundown on what I'd recommend:
Chain: the cheap one Universal Cycles -- KMC Z-33 Chain
Shimano 6 speed freewheel: Universal Cycles -- Shimano 6 speed Freewheels
Freewheel Removal Tool (2 notch freewheel): Universal Cycles -- Park Tool FR-2C Freewheel Remover
And if you don't have a 1" box wrench to fit around the freewheel removal tool. There are videos online to demo exactly how to do it. I got mine off with no problem.

Good luck.

jaciche

Thanks guys. My plan is to buy a shimano freewheel and KMC Z-50 chain, and get a freewheel tool, but I'd like to find one that will work with sutour and shimano freewheels if possible. I'll also buy a spoke wrench.

I tried to clean the spokes using synthetic 000 steel wool and some multi-purpose cleaner with minimal results. Is it even possible to get those spokes clean? And yes, I think I could get the nipples to turn if I soaked them. I

My other thought is to rebuild the wheels with new spokes and nipples. I've wanted to learn to how to build wheels, I have just never had the chance. This would result in some down time off my bike, but I have another one. Worst case scenario would be cracking a rim and having to buy a new wheel anyway.

As far as DT shifters go, I'm not against getting them, I just think it would cost more unnecessary $ for me. We'll see how it goes as I continue to ride it.

repechage

From your location, I think there is a fair chance that there is a bike co-op or Bicycle kitchen somewhere nearby. If so, participating and learning from them could well yield the freewheel remover, chaintool and a bit of knowledge you need, the one in LA also has a wheelbuilding class. I would not worry about cleaning the spokes. You might be well advised to get some penetrating oil into the spoke/nipple system.
I can understand the bike shops reluctance to not want to mess things up... but only to a minor point.
The service writer could easily have done a quick test to see if a random spoke would adjust. I would consider a different place.
That said, on modern bikes many individual parts of the past are now assemblies, so they just think that way.

repechage

Here is one even:

The Milwaukee Bicycle Collective - Your Public Bike Shop

garage sale GT

I have had good luck asking shops to true up old wheels. I don't think there's an issue there.

Suntour used to make good stuff.

wrk101

Good to wish, but it is not happening. I have at least 20 different freewheel tools, and I still don't have them all. Shimano tool is totally, completely different than the Suntour tool.

jaciche

After thinking more today, I think I'm going to buy:

New Chain
Suntour freewheel tool
Chain tool
Tri Flow degreaser/lube
Spoke Wrench

I'll take off the freewheel, clean it very well. replace, put the new chain on, and attempt to true the front wheel. The only thing after than will be some slight derailer adjustments. And if I'm still not happy with the shifting, I'll buy a shimano freewheel and tool to put that on too. Sound like a good plan?

repechage

Remove the freewheel and send it off to Pastor Bob's Freewheel Spa.

And read up at least on wheel truing. the front is easy enough but even then keeping things concentric is important, of the rear wheel there is much more at play. That is why I suggested the bike co-op.

jaciche

Yea The rear wheel isnt too bad so I was thinking about leaving it unless someone else did it who was more experienced with truing. I'll be going to that bike co-op once I get back home from school this semester.

Can anyone confirm which freewheel tool I need to buy for my suntour freewheel?

Also, what "light" penetrant should I use to get the spokes loosened up?

crank_addict

I think velovixen post 32 answered and most likely you have the 2 notch. Park FR2. In addition to the 2 notch, it should measure approx. 25mm across and to the outer edge of them.
-remove wheel
-remove skewer
-insert FW removal tool
-temporarily and lightly re-install skewer (just to hold the FW tool in place)
-Support the wheel next to your body. If you don't have a box wrench to fit the FW tool, a 12" adjustable jaw wrench will suffice. You want the larger wrench for leverage. The threads are right hand, so counter clockwise removes it.
-In your case, don't attempt to dismantle the FW. Soak in a solvent (kerosene, etc.). Clean it to near immaculate, if possible high pressure blow it out.

wheels: A drop of Liquid Wrench penetrate onto the spoke so that it runs into the nipple threads. Optional, but if the spokes are scuzzy, a very fine or perhaps 000 steel wool cleans them up. Adding Simple Green into the steel wool is even easier. The process doesn't take that long.

Sorry... I didn't first catch your reply on the spokes not easily cleaned up. If really that bad but you don't want to fuss with re-lace or new wheels, go more aggressive with cleaning them. Try 320 grit sandpaper folded between your fingers and the spoke squeezed while sanding. Finish with the above (steel wool).

jaciche

Here's an update: I've been riding it without many changes most of the summer. I just took the freewheel off, and boy is it in great shape now. All I need to do now is replace the chain, clean the front chainrings, adjust the derailers, and tighten up the bottom bracket which I am planning on having an lbs do, so I don't mess things up. It's coming along nicely, and I will post some pictures when I'm all done.

Shp4man

A worn out chain will cause shifting issues, maybe that's all that's needed.

jaciche

Here it is. Here's what I've done:
-New Tires
-New Bar Tape
-Put my SPD pedals on
-Trued the front wheel
-New Saddle (Cheap but much more comfortable)
-Attempted to clean the spokes without much success
-Degreased, cleaned, and lubed the freewheel
-Cleaned the sprockets, crank, derailers
-Put a new chain on
-Put on a bike computer
-I had an lbs fine tune the derailers and tighten up the BB
I took it for a short 8 mile ride after I brought it home and it's shifts very smoothly. The spokes still need attention but I think i'll look back into that during the winter. Now it's time to get some miles on it before it gets too cold. I also need to stay out of bike shops...now that I have some income, a new road bike is looking pretty good. I think I'll keep this as my primary bike for at least another year, just to get some value to the things that I have done to this bike. With the price I paid plus everything else, I have $250 into it, so I'm very happy . The only question I have is: if I decide to get some DT shifters, how difficult will they be to install?