A Personal Ultiamte Grail bike, The Peugeot PY10FC, finally for me to build!
#51
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Bite your tongue! C'est une groupe!
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#52
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Wow! Very nice project. It's in amazing condition,too.
#53
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Lovely, and I really enjoy watching the progress and hearing the thought process.
What shift levers? Simplex retrofriction?
What stem and bars?
What shift levers? Simplex retrofriction?
What stem and bars?
#54
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I have an Atax aero style stem (NOS) already and a TDF model Phillipe bar (Close to NOS) too. Both what was originally supplied on the PY10FC and both bargain buys at eBay I was able to snag recently. Thank God not everyone's on Hyper-price selling mode with some French components.....yet(?)!
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You probably know this: Vélo Compétition .com*: Collection de vélos de course anciens :: 1983 Peugeot PY10FC
#57
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Well, I've done and did it!.....
After literally suffering at the thought of using my last set of Mavic SSC derailleurs and shifters I have in my stash on this build which I started with a statement of "This is not going to be another Mavic build!".... This popped up at eBay literally on my birthday!......
It's all there!, used, but in very good condition (look like the set just needs a good thorough cleaning to look almost new), and I got it with an offer below the asking price......, so the timing and the good price seems to really say this group was meant for this build! Like I always said, "Just wait and it will come..."
Sure, it's not the SLJ6600 that I was hoping for, but actually, the PY10FC used in competition were sporting an RD that surprisingly seemed to have too much of Simplex's Delrin festooned Criterium RD DNA. So this Simplex/Spidel SLJ5500 is more than an acceptably correct RD for this bike....
Being a used set, it will also be easier for me to do the necessary modifications (Dremel material off) to the FD clamp to make it fit over the OS CF seat tube, which I had such a hard time thinking of doing to my NOS Mavic FD.
Now to find that elusive windowed shift lever clamp for the retros......
After literally suffering at the thought of using my last set of Mavic SSC derailleurs and shifters I have in my stash on this build which I started with a statement of "This is not going to be another Mavic build!".... This popped up at eBay literally on my birthday!......
It's all there!, used, but in very good condition (look like the set just needs a good thorough cleaning to look almost new), and I got it with an offer below the asking price......, so the timing and the good price seems to really say this group was meant for this build! Like I always said, "Just wait and it will come..."
Sure, it's not the SLJ6600 that I was hoping for, but actually, the PY10FC used in competition were sporting an RD that surprisingly seemed to have too much of Simplex's Delrin festooned Criterium RD DNA. So this Simplex/Spidel SLJ5500 is more than an acceptably correct RD for this bike....
Being a used set, it will also be easier for me to do the necessary modifications (Dremel material off) to the FD clamp to make it fit over the OS CF seat tube, which I had such a hard time thinking of doing to my NOS Mavic FD.
Now to find that elusive windowed shift lever clamp for the retros......
#59
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I measured it again tonight and it is 29.25mm on my measuring caliper. The common seat tube diameter is 28.6mm. Does not sound like much of a difference, but I think forcing too small of a clamp around a CF tube could very well damage it. I put my Mavic FD clamp (which is meant for 28.6mm seat tubes) against the seat tube already and from the look and feel of it, If I forced the clamp on to the seat tube, I will most likely damage the seat tube, especially at the beefier portions of the clamp where the FD arms pivot on. Just no way it's gonna go on without taking some material off all around the inside of the clamp.
I'm really curious to find out if Peugeot special machined the clamps on the FDs that came with these bikes, or if Simplex do a special run of FD's and clamped on shifter bosses that properly fit around the 29.25mm tubes?
I'm really curious to find out if Peugeot special machined the clamps on the FDs that came with these bikes, or if Simplex do a special run of FD's and clamped on shifter bosses that properly fit around the 29.25mm tubes?
#60
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Wow, what luck! Those are perfect!
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Chombi-
Very nice to see you get the derailleurs you needed for the build. You're right about the team racing bikes - they used Delrin and alloy LJ 4000s with drilled out cages since they were lighter than either the LJ 5500 or LJ 6600. This should build up into a superb machine!
Very nice to see you get the derailleurs you needed for the build. You're right about the team racing bikes - they used Delrin and alloy LJ 4000s with drilled out cages since they were lighter than either the LJ 5500 or LJ 6600. This should build up into a superb machine!
#62
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Well, here's the latest parts acquisition for the PY10FC project:
A set of NOS Weinmann levers.....
Bought for the very hard to find these days, Carrera pattern hoods that I am using to replace the dried and cracked up ones on the Carrera levers I am using for the project. Just could not find the hoods by themselves and these came up for a really good price that's about how much (or maybe even cheaper) the hoods alone might cost if I did find them.
Why I wouldn't just use these newly acquired levers??...
As you can see on the pic above, the Carrera levers that I already had are much better quality than the one I just got.
The lever bodies on them are just pressed aluminum construction, while the Carreras are cast aluminum. The drilled levers on the Carreras also look so much better and seem to be better finished.
After a nerve wracking session of pushing and pulling on the hoods to get them off these levers because I was afraid I'd tear them, I got them finally mounted on the Carrera levers....
A set of NOS Weinmann levers.....
Bought for the very hard to find these days, Carrera pattern hoods that I am using to replace the dried and cracked up ones on the Carrera levers I am using for the project. Just could not find the hoods by themselves and these came up for a really good price that's about how much (or maybe even cheaper) the hoods alone might cost if I did find them.
Why I wouldn't just use these newly acquired levers??...
As you can see on the pic above, the Carrera levers that I already had are much better quality than the one I just got.
The lever bodies on them are just pressed aluminum construction, while the Carreras are cast aluminum. The drilled levers on the Carreras also look so much better and seem to be better finished.
After a nerve wracking session of pushing and pulling on the hoods to get them off these levers because I was afraid I'd tear them, I got them finally mounted on the Carrera levers....
Last edited by Chombi; 09-28-14 at 04:29 PM.
#63
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Latest PY10FC build development......
The Atax aero stem, Philippe TDF bars and Weinmann Carrera 400 brake levers are all together and taped up with my favorite white Cinelli cork tape
The build's been slow mostly because of budget challenges through the past year and some technical difficulties I just managed to solve after some time of trying to decide which solution to go with. Most difficult one of which was how to fit the Simplex SLJ FD which was sized for a standard 28.6 diameter seat tube, on to the 29+mm oversized (odd sized) seat tube Can't just force the FD clamp on to the tube as it will most likely damage the CF seat tube, especially as the rear part of the clamp is made from a substantially thick aluminum casting that looked like it will not bend open to accommodate the oversized seat tube without damage. After many times seriously considering using my Dremel tool to grind out the clamp ID to the right size, I decided to just bend the FD clamp assembly wider open by squeezing it against an appropriately sized wooden dowel. I did it this weekend after finally gaining enough courage to do it and was really expecting to mess up and break the FD. Anyway, what do I have to lose but just a really expensive to replace SLJ FD....but surprise, surprise! IT WORKED! Now the FD clamp fits perfectly around the seat tube and the aluminum clamping parts did not break or crack. Most importantly, the hinge part also came through without any damage.
I suspect that the Peugeot factory mechanics did similar to fit the SLJ FD clamps around the PY10FC seat tubes, as I never found any evidence on all the pics I found out there, that they possibly machined the FD clamps bigger to fit. Last thing to still acquire for the bike is the correct DT clamp for the Spidel retrofriction shifters I am using on the build. I think I have a source for that, but it will mean cannibalizing it from a different model Simplex shifter set that I have to buy fro a French eBay seller. After getting htat, it will be a homestretch to finally finish the build, just in time to ride the bike this summer!
The Atax aero stem, Philippe TDF bars and Weinmann Carrera 400 brake levers are all together and taped up with my favorite white Cinelli cork tape
The build's been slow mostly because of budget challenges through the past year and some technical difficulties I just managed to solve after some time of trying to decide which solution to go with. Most difficult one of which was how to fit the Simplex SLJ FD which was sized for a standard 28.6 diameter seat tube, on to the 29+mm oversized (odd sized) seat tube Can't just force the FD clamp on to the tube as it will most likely damage the CF seat tube, especially as the rear part of the clamp is made from a substantially thick aluminum casting that looked like it will not bend open to accommodate the oversized seat tube without damage. After many times seriously considering using my Dremel tool to grind out the clamp ID to the right size, I decided to just bend the FD clamp assembly wider open by squeezing it against an appropriately sized wooden dowel. I did it this weekend after finally gaining enough courage to do it and was really expecting to mess up and break the FD. Anyway, what do I have to lose but just a really expensive to replace SLJ FD....but surprise, surprise! IT WORKED! Now the FD clamp fits perfectly around the seat tube and the aluminum clamping parts did not break or crack. Most importantly, the hinge part also came through without any damage.
I suspect that the Peugeot factory mechanics did similar to fit the SLJ FD clamps around the PY10FC seat tubes, as I never found any evidence on all the pics I found out there, that they possibly machined the FD clamps bigger to fit. Last thing to still acquire for the bike is the correct DT clamp for the Spidel retrofriction shifters I am using on the build. I think I have a source for that, but it will mean cannibalizing it from a different model Simplex shifter set that I have to buy fro a French eBay seller. After getting htat, it will be a homestretch to finally finish the build, just in time to ride the bike this summer!
#64
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Very nice look. I can't wait to see it completed as I love such kind of framesets (especially the Vitus 979 and 979 Carbone) :-D.
#66
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Wel,l here's one of the last parts for the project build that just came in this afternoon.....
Custom made clamp-on bosses I bought from a guy from Boise Idaho through ebay.
Very well made, using a stainless steel German made, "Norma" brand clamp, and what looks to also be stainless steel bosses, welded on.
Very clean welds and I measured it with my calipers and confirmed that it ill fit over the slightly over-sized CF downtube (29mm) of the frameset. So much better quality than the originally used, chintzy looking Simplex clamp-on bosses on these framesets. Not period accurate I guess, but this bike deserves better than cheap quality original.
Cost quite a bit, but I convinced myself to pull the trigger on it, as it was the last one he had for sale and who knows when he will make more.....
Here it is with the Spidel Retrofrictions mounted......
Perfect fit and looks like they were made for each other!
Custom made clamp-on bosses I bought from a guy from Boise Idaho through ebay.
Very well made, using a stainless steel German made, "Norma" brand clamp, and what looks to also be stainless steel bosses, welded on.
Very clean welds and I measured it with my calipers and confirmed that it ill fit over the slightly over-sized CF downtube (29mm) of the frameset. So much better quality than the originally used, chintzy looking Simplex clamp-on bosses on these framesets. Not period accurate I guess, but this bike deserves better than cheap quality original.
Cost quite a bit, but I convinced myself to pull the trigger on it, as it was the last one he had for sale and who knows when he will make more.....
Here it is with the Spidel Retrofrictions mounted......
Perfect fit and looks like they were made for each other!
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Really looks great. When the right deal comes along, you have to take it. Fun seeing this come together, you must be pleased.
#68
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More last parts that just came in:
Waterbottle cage mounting clamps from Elite.....
Plastic clamps that I hoe will not look too out of place on the frame because of their dark color, plus their frame friendly plastic construction, instead of the original aluminum ones that tend to mar up the frames finish.
I will use them with the NOS Blackburn Pro cage I got about a week ago:
The low profile of the Blackburn mounting points at the bottom of the cage will hopefully help keep the profile of the cage low on the frame, unlike some other plastic/resin bottle cage mounts like the "gizmo" from Zefal that makes the bottle cage stand quite far from the downtube which makes it look a bit wonky....
I also bought the proper brake cables and derailleur cables already, but those are not pic worthy.....
The build should be fianlly finished this weekend and if the weather holds, I will be able to take and post up pics of the completed bike!
Waterbottle cage mounting clamps from Elite.....
Plastic clamps that I hoe will not look too out of place on the frame because of their dark color, plus their frame friendly plastic construction, instead of the original aluminum ones that tend to mar up the frames finish.
I will use them with the NOS Blackburn Pro cage I got about a week ago:
The low profile of the Blackburn mounting points at the bottom of the cage will hopefully help keep the profile of the cage low on the frame, unlike some other plastic/resin bottle cage mounts like the "gizmo" from Zefal that makes the bottle cage stand quite far from the downtube which makes it look a bit wonky....
I also bought the proper brake cables and derailleur cables already, but those are not pic worthy.....
The build should be fianlly finished this weekend and if the weather holds, I will be able to take and post up pics of the completed bike!
Last edited by Chombi; 06-19-15 at 06:02 PM.
#70
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If there's anyone who thinks his builds more through than Chombi, he should step forward. Amazing work, I think you'd have to travel France up and down quite a few times before finding a PY10FC that will come close.
#71
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That is going to look incredible.
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More last parts that just came in:
Waterbottle cage mounting clamps from Elite.....
Plastic clamps that I hoe will not look too out of place on the frame because of their dark color, plus their frame friendly plastic construction, instead of the original aluminum ones that tend to mar up the frames finish.
I will use them with the NOS Blackburn Pro cage I got about a week ago:
The low profile of the Blackburn mounting points at the bottom of the cage will hopefully help keep the profile of the cage low on the frame, unlike some other plastic/resin bottle cage mounts like the "gizmo" from Zefal that makes the bottle cage stand quite far from the downtube which makes it look a bit wonky....
I also bought the proper brake cables and derailleur cables already, but those are not pic worthy.....
The build should be fianlly finished this weekend and if the weather holds, I will be able to take and post up pics of the completed bike!
Waterbottle cage mounting clamps from Elite.....
Plastic clamps that I hoe will not look too out of place on the frame because of their dark color, plus their frame friendly plastic construction, instead of the original aluminum ones that tend to mar up the frames finish.
I will use them with the NOS Blackburn Pro cage I got about a week ago:
The low profile of the Blackburn mounting points at the bottom of the cage will hopefully help keep the profile of the cage low on the frame, unlike some other plastic/resin bottle cage mounts like the "gizmo" from Zefal that makes the bottle cage stand quite far from the downtube which makes it look a bit wonky....
I also bought the proper brake cables and derailleur cables already, but those are not pic worthy.....
The build should be fianlly finished this weekend and if the weather holds, I will be able to take and post up pics of the completed bike!
I have that same cage in silver/red it is like 20 years old, and the red is very light colored, the plattic is cracking. Any New Old Stock?
#74
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Wel,l I finally finaihed the bike today!!
Took about a year and 1 month to complete the bike because of a few technical challenges and mostly build budget limitations over the year and so many decision that had to be made on what components to use to build the bike, but after one last big push to get (and modify) some small missing items, here it finally is....
The final product is basically a "Tout French", mid 80's build, using Stronglight Delta, Simplex/Spidel. Sedis, Maillard, Atax, Philippe and Bador (BB) components with Wolber tubular rims with Schwalbe Milano tubs. Only Italian items are the bar tape and the Selle Italia Turbo Perforated saddle. Certainly not exactly how most PY10FCs were built with at the factory, but I think the Stronglight Delta components brings the bike to a slightly more advanced component grade and slightly more modern aesthetics that seems to address better the then latest CF frame construction of the bike by Peugeot.
I still need to get Look Keo (Max or Classic) pedals for riding the bike as the installed Stronglight PR300 Delta series pedals are just too rare/unobtanium to use for regular rides.
I'll give it a quick test ride this afternoon to see how everything works and how the bike rides.
So glad to finally finish this one, so maybe I can go and focus on also finishing my Medici Aerodynamic Project that had to go on mothballs so I can work on this one.....
Thanks everyone for all the encouragement and input into this personal grail bike build! Getting you opinions/input certainlymade it one of my most rewarding C&V builds so far!
Took about a year and 1 month to complete the bike because of a few technical challenges and mostly build budget limitations over the year and so many decision that had to be made on what components to use to build the bike, but after one last big push to get (and modify) some small missing items, here it finally is....
The final product is basically a "Tout French", mid 80's build, using Stronglight Delta, Simplex/Spidel. Sedis, Maillard, Atax, Philippe and Bador (BB) components with Wolber tubular rims with Schwalbe Milano tubs. Only Italian items are the bar tape and the Selle Italia Turbo Perforated saddle. Certainly not exactly how most PY10FCs were built with at the factory, but I think the Stronglight Delta components brings the bike to a slightly more advanced component grade and slightly more modern aesthetics that seems to address better the then latest CF frame construction of the bike by Peugeot.
I still need to get Look Keo (Max or Classic) pedals for riding the bike as the installed Stronglight PR300 Delta series pedals are just too rare/unobtanium to use for regular rides.
I'll give it a quick test ride this afternoon to see how everything works and how the bike rides.
So glad to finally finish this one, so maybe I can go and focus on also finishing my Medici Aerodynamic Project that had to go on mothballs so I can work on this one.....
Thanks everyone for all the encouragement and input into this personal grail bike build! Getting you opinions/input certainlymade it one of my most rewarding C&V builds so far!
#75
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Man. That is one sweet machine. Congrats and enjoy!
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera