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Upgrading a 1988 Peugeot Triathlon, really confused

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Upgrading a 1988 Peugeot Triathlon, really confused

Old 04-30-14, 10:13 AM
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Upgrading a 1988 Peugeot Triathlon, really confused

Hey all! Nice place you have here!

I have an 88 Peugeot Triathlon that I've been riding for 4 years now, and each summer I'm putting on more and more miles! It's been a fantastic bike so far, that really hasn't needed much. I replaced the tires with some white velo style tires (super soft compound, round profile), and I replaced the seat with a brand new white seat (I forget the brand/type). Here is a photo:



Anyway, I plan on riding this thing for a long time. My tires are just about worn out.. Every year I lube things and clean/polish/wax the frame, but this year I'd like to upgrade a few things, but I'm really confused. The front and rear wheels don't match, one is a mavic, the other is a velotech. I know they're 700c wheels, but this bike is a 12 spd, so I'm wondering what I can use in terms of wheel sets. I don't want to change shifters, everything is the original Shimano 105 set that works very nicely, with indexed shifting on the rear derailleur. How/where do I go about finding wheelsets designed for my 6spd system?

I'm also looking into casual clipless pedals/shoes, but I'd like something that had a classic look. Any suggestions?

Another thing I'm looking at upgrading is the seatpost, I believe the diameter is 26.8mm. The one in there currently looks to be aluminum, fluted. Would a newer seatpost help shed some weight? I don't compete, but I do ride with friends and it seems like the guys on newer bikes crush me on the uphills. My bike weighs about 21lbs or so.

Cheers!

Last edited by cash68; 04-30-14 at 11:30 AM.
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Old 04-30-14, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by cash68
Hey all! Nice place you have here!

I have an 88 Peugeot Triathlon that I've been riding for 4 years now, and each summer I'm putting on more and more miles! It's been a fantastic bike so far, that really hasn't needed much. I replaced the tires with some white velo style tires (super soft compound, round profile), and I replaced the seat with a brand new white seat (I forget the brand/type). Here is a photo:



Anyway, I plan on riding this thing for a long time. My tires are just about worn out.. Every year I lube things and clean/polish/wax the frame, but this year I'd like to upgrade a few things, but I'm really confused. The front and rear wheels don't match, one is a mavic, the other is a velotech. I know they're 700c wheels, but this bike is a 12 spd, so I'm wondering what I can use in terms of wheel sets. I don't want to change shifters, everything is the original Shimano 105 set that works very nicely, with indexed shifting on the rear derailleur. How/where do I go about finding wheelsets designed for my 7spd system?

I'm also looking into casual clipless pedals/shoes, but I'd like something that had a classic look. Any suggestions?

Another thing I'm looking at upgrading is the seatpost, I believe the diameter is 26.8mm. The one in there currently looks to be aluminum, fluted. Would a newer seatpost help shed some weight? I don't compete, but I do ride with friends and it seems like the guys on newer bikes crush me on the uphills. My bike weighs about 21lbs or so.

Cheers!
Nice bike, the color is pretty.

So is it a 12 or 14 speed? You mentioned 12 speed and 7 speed..

The seat post is probably steel, put a magnet up to it to test. You can get an alloy one for under $20.
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Old 04-30-14, 11:19 AM
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1-getting crushed on climbs of less than 15 minutes has more to do with your legs and gearing than your bike.

2-21 lbs. is not a bad weight at all.

3-the top two places to lose weight on the bike are the crank set/bottom bracket and the wheel set.

4-Your wheel set is a freewheel type, so upgrading it won't save much weight.
4a-however, a bearing repack and a true/tension of each wheel will bring them alive and make them seem new.

5-You could get a newer seat post, but it won't save a lot of weight.

If you addressed each issue and spent money to lighten each issue, you'd be better off buying a good used 5-10 year old bike. It won't be as cool as your bike. However, there are ways to climb better and be faster on your bike, without dipping into the wallet as deep.

1-Fit. Make sure you have it correctly fitted. Why waste power due to improper fit?
2-Fitness. Can you lose the 3-4 lbs. that would come off your bike? Improve the engine. Try running a bit.
3-Gearing. Your climbing may benefit from a wider range in the back, or a smaller front chain ring.
4-Clipless pedals. The jury is out on these, as far as a huge advantage, but they help develop a smoother stroke.
5-True/Tension the wheels, get the hubs repacked and adjusted. Like buying new ones.

All the above make your bike a smoother, more enjoyable ride, whether climbing or not.
When it reaches it's full potential, you'll still be looking for yours. If it ever becomes the obstacle to speed, then change bikes.

I state these things as opinions, though they may sound as if they're facts. I believe them to be true.
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Old 04-30-14, 11:28 AM
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There are modern freewheel type wheels that you can get made by Weinmann, but if you were really interested in getting new wheels, you might consider building them yourself with vintage, high quality hubs. That would probably run you $200 a pair for a decent set. I'd probably keep what you have though, unless mismatched rims were a significant eyesore.

Weightwise, 21lbs is quite respectable. Dropping weight however will usually require changing the wheels. There's not a huge savings to be gotten from changing a seatpost assuming you already have one that's aluminum, and decent. You could try changing the seat to one that's lighter, but shedding 400 grams off a bike is much more pricey than losing 400 grams off your own body.

Edit: Also, everything Robbietunes said.
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Old 04-30-14, 11:30 AM
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Woops. Yeah, 12spd. I dig the color, it's very unique. I'll check the post tonight but I'm pretty sure it's aluminum.
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Old 04-30-14, 11:37 AM
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You have a Laprade-style seat post. You can save an insignificant amount of weight by replacing it.
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Old 04-30-14, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes
1-getting crushed on climbs of less than 15 minutes has more to do with your legs and gearing than your bike.

2-21 lbs. is not a bad weight at all.

3-the top two places to lose weight on the bike are the crank set/bottom bracket and the wheel set.

4-Your wheel set is a freewheel type, so upgrading it won't save much weight.
4a-however, a bearing repack and a true/tension of each wheel will bring them alive and make them seem new.

5-You could get a newer seat post, but it won't save a lot of weight.

If you addressed each issue and spent money to lighten each issue, you'd be better off buying a good used 5-10 year old bike. It won't be as cool as your bike. However, there are ways to climb better and be faster on your bike, without dipping into the wallet as deep.

1-Fit. Make sure you have it correctly fitted. Why waste power due to improper fit?
2-Fitness. Can you lose the 3-4 lbs. that would come off your bike? Improve the engine. Try running a bit.
3-Gearing. Your climbing may benefit from a wider range in the back, or a smaller front chain ring.
4-Clipless pedals. The jury is out on these, as far as a huge advantage, but they help develop a smoother stroke.
5-True/Tension the wheels, get the hubs repacked and adjusted. Like buying new ones.

All the above make your bike a smoother, more enjoyable ride, whether climbing or not.
When it reaches it's full potential, you'll still be looking for yours. If it ever becomes the obstacle to speed, then change bikes.

I state these things as opinions, though they may sound as if they're facts. I believe them to be true.
1. Understood. I've been doing interval training which is helping, as well as improving my technique.
2. Yeah, it's a decently light bike for it's age. It was pretty high end, back in 88, there was only one model above it in Peugeot's lineup.
3. Well this thing has the biopace system, which personally, I like a lot, so that will stay original. The wheels are mis matched and old, so I figured that might be the best bet.
4. Darn. Was hoping wheel technology could give me an advantage over my current wheels. Not a huge fan of how they look either. The wheels are very true, I don't see any runout on them.
5. Yeah, going to confirm diameter with a micormeter before I spend any money.

I understand it's better to just switch bikes, but I love this bike. The frame is extremely well made, it rides nicely, and I'm very used to it. I'm already lifting/running 4x a week so my fitness is improving pretty rapidly (had an injury in the middle of winter that prevented cardio, didn't gain weight but lost muscle).

I just purchased some Shimano M324s, still hunting for shoes.


I very much agree with you that it's a nice bike, and isn't really an obstacle to speed, it's the rider. I did a 50 mile ride last year and blew past guys on carbon bikes; that was extremely rewarding. This is also the reason I am interested in upgrading it; I don't see why I'd ever need another road bike. This one works great.
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Old 04-30-14, 11:51 AM
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I would agree with most of the posts. A few grams on a seat post is less than the difference between a full and empty water bottle.

I wouldn't worry about different wheels being an issue, but if there is one place where you might feel a difference is by getting lighter wheels and tires. You would appear to have 36 spoke wheels. A 32 spoke wheel with lighter rims, lighter tires will feel lighter and accelerate faster. The actual gains may not be huge, but it will feel faster. Revolving weight on a bike means more than static weight. Many cyclists have two sets of wheels.
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Old 04-30-14, 12:01 PM
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"what I can use in terms of wheel sets"

The mismatched rims suggests that one rim was damaged and replaced by a prior owner. There is no particular need to replace either rim, a mismatch doesn't hurt anything. If the rims are true (straight - spin the wheel while watching the gap between rim and brake pads) and no spokes are slack or broken, you don't need to do anything. Still, mismatched wheels can bug some people (like me). If you want to get matching wheels, you should have a good wheelbuilder at a local bike shop rebuild the wheels with the existing hubs (assuming the hubs are matching), new quality rims, and new spokes/nipples. Cost perhaps $260. A properly handbuilt wheelset will be better than a new off-the-shelf wheelset of equivalent price. I like Mavic Open Pro rims (high quality, strong, not too deep section, looks right for the bike) but there are other quality rims. Spend the small extra for double-butted spokes.

"casual clipless pedals/shoes"

There are shoes for clipless pedals that have a sort of retro/classic look, with laces and leather, if that is what you mean. Like the Giro Republic. There are also shoes for clipless pedals that look like sneakers or even flip-flops, certainly "casual", but it is debatable how good they look.

For pedals, SPD-type pedals are simple and the cleats are recessed into the shoes' soles so you can walk normally. The lightest SPD-type pedal may be the Wellgo MG-8. There are also heavier SPD pedals with the binding on one side and a standard cage on the other (so you can ride in regular shoes too), like the Wellgo WPD 95B. Those are both about $40-50 the pair.

"Would a newer seatpost help shed some weight?"

Minimal. Maybe 50 grams (2 oz) at best if yours is already aluminum.

"I do ride with friends and it seems like the guys on newer bikes crush me on the uphills. My bike weighs about 21lbs or so."

Bike weight makes some difference, but the main factors are technique, legs/lungs, gearing, and rider weight. 21 lb is quite light. The difference to your friends' bikes is just a full water bottle or two.
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Old 04-30-14, 12:54 PM
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What does the tubing decal say (right above the DT shifters) Vitus 980 or Reynolds 501?
If it's Vitus 980, then your seatpost should be a 26.4mm diameter size. I suspect the post for a 501 framed Triathlon will be bigger.
Regarding the wheelset on the bike, the "Velotech" is definitely not original to the bike, but the Mavic might be. Is it a Mavic Module E rim on it?
If it is, you might still find another wheel to match it with the same rim and similar or the same hub, but it will cost quite a bit, as Module E's are quite popular with C&Vers. If you will replace the wheelset all together, make sure you check you frame's rear spacing. I suspect that it's a 126mm spacing back there, being that the bike is set up as a 6 speed, but if the bike is indeed a 1998 model, it could be a 130mm rear spaced frame. Getting a 130mm spaced rear wheel to fit a 126mm spaced frame is not that hard, and can be done by your LBS, but it's good to get the spacing right on the wheelset to avoid having to cold set the frame to make things fit.
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Old 04-30-14, 01:29 PM
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cash68-

Don't worry about the Mavic/Velotech rim "mismatch" since Velotech was the Peugeot house brand rim and was made for them by Mavic, if I recall correctly.
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Old 04-30-14, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by bertinjim
cash68-

Don't worry about the Mavic/Velotech rim "mismatch" since Velotech was the Peugeot house brand rim and was made for them by Mavic, if I recall correctly.
Correct. The rims are 'velotech by Mavic' so there is a chance the wheels are not mismatched.

1. Ditch the tires for lightweight 700 X 23 or 25c quality tires. Michelin, Continental, Veloflex....take your pick, Pair the tires up with lightweight inner tubes. Try to max out at 350g per wheel for tires and tubes. I'll venture a guess and say your current setup is in the 600g range. That's a massive weight savings.....a 1lb 1oz weight savings!!

2. Lubing isn't always enough. Are the bearings properly adjusted? Most bike mechanics are clueless when it comes to adjusting cup/cone bearings. What you want to do is loosen them until there's play then tighten them just a tick. My technique is harder to understand and much more precise. I loosen mine so there's play when the skewers half tighten and then goes away when the skewers fully tightened.

3. How's the BB holding up? After 26 years I'll say it needs an overall.

4. Your fit is way off. Get it properly fitted with the proper seat height and stem reach.

5. As mentioned already climbing is mostly a function of your conditioning and gearing. Shimano 'HG' freewheels will shift a lot better than what you have but they're not available it all gear ranges.
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Old 05-04-15, 09:51 PM
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Hey Guys,

Updating this thread. So last year I wound up getting new pedals, shoes and really enjoyed the benifits last year (only fell once! ).

Anyway, I blew a tube tonight and my tires are about shot. I also noticed my rear wheel is no longer true. Locally, I found a wheel set that interests me:

"HED tubular wheels. The rear is a Tri spoke and the front is an Alps. Older set of wheels but I am not sure of the year. Tire are Bontrager XXX 700x23 with less then 300 miles. Also has a new Shimano 105 12x28 cassette."

Can I swap cassettes from my current 12 spd onto this wheel?

Cheers!
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Old 05-04-15, 10:41 PM
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You want tomgo tubular and give up clinchers?
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Old 05-04-15, 10:57 PM
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Don't recommend tubular tires. They're much more difficult to deal with - mounting, repair, etc. - than clincher tires. Modern, high quality clincher tires are really very good and tubulars have very little advantage except for full-on racing with support crew. I use Michelin Pro Race 3 currently and they ride very nice, are light weight, and have reasonable durability.

And concerning your weight question - tires and tubes are about the easiest and cheapest way to save weight. Use a good light weight tire and a tube labeled light or ultralight. Tubular wheels and tires are certainly lighter generally than clincher, but most don't think it's worth it.

If you're looking for lightweight factory wheels, some suggestions of companies that have pretty good reputations are: Soul, Williams and Bicycle Wheel Warehouse. Good bang/buck weight wise. Many more options too. I personally would never buy the wheels you referenced above. They're good wheels, but I really doubt they'd meet your recreational needs. If you go with a (currently popular) wide-ish rim, a good clincher tire will come even closer to mimicking a tubular in ride and performance. But that's not critical, imho. I have both regular and wide rims and they both work fine.

I ride Reynolds Solitude (actually the Solitude's predecessor) and some Velocity A23's and they're both lightweight (1500-1600 grams per pair), very durable and nice looking.

I saw those pedals you bought, but they are about opposite of weight saving, if you're still concerned with that. They could be the heaviest SPD pedals made. Not "bad" by any means, but since you're talking about losing weight, you didn't go the right way with the pedals. Get some regular SPD pedals, or for the lightest - the Wellgo MG8's for a good functional, very light SPD pedal.

Last edited by Camilo; 05-04-15 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 05-05-15, 10:17 AM
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I want to stay with clinchers, argh, got so caught up with the wheels I forgot some of the details. Yeah, the pedals I have are heavy, but I wasn't sure I'd like cleats; you have a great point though. They're definitely not light. Now that I am more comfortable with clip-ins maybe I should upgrade.

So basically, if I am looking to upgrade and keep my freewheel hub in the back with 6 gears, I'd need to buy rims/laces and lace my hub into the new rim, there isn't anything sold that would work with my bike?

Last edited by cash68; 05-05-15 at 10:27 AM.
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Old 05-05-15, 11:23 AM
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Correct....if you want to keep the 'freewheel' you'd need to replace rims/spokes. But why? There are so many reasonable priced wheelsets out there that it's almost counter productive.

Last edited by miamijim; 05-05-15 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 05-05-15, 11:35 AM
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I think some of the 80's Peugeot have a 24.8mm seat post. If that is the case your options will be limited.
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Old 05-05-15, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by miamijim
Correct....if you want to keep 'freewheel' you'd need to replace the hubs. But why? There are so many reasonable priced wheelsets out there that it's almost counter productive.
Why what? I am confused.

I am under the impression that all these great wheelsets for sale are not compatiable with my 6spd rear freewheel hub; am I wrong? Sorry I am kind of a newb about bikes and what is compatible with what. I know I have Shimano 105 components, but it's a 12 spd bike, and my rear gears are 6 cogs, and these supposedly won't work on a more modern shimano 'free hub'. So all new wheels I see are either flip-flop fixed/freewheel, or they are newer shimano Freehubs. I don't see any new wheels for sale compatible with the gearset that I have currently.
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Old 05-05-15, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by cash68
Why what? I am confused.

I am under the impression that all these great wheelsets for sale are not compatiable with my 6spd rear freewheel hub; am I wrong? Sorry I am kind of a newb about bikes and what is compatible with what. I know I have Shimano 105 components, but it's a 12 spd bike, and my rear gears are 6 cogs, and these supposedly won't work on a more modern shimano 'free hub'. So all new wheels I see are either flip-flop fixed/freewheel, or they are newer shimano Freehubs. I don't see any new wheels for sale compatible with the gearset that I have currently.
Why? Because regardless of what you do with the 6s freewheel/hub on your bike it will always be a 6s freewheel/hub. There are no rims or spokes that will increase the performance of your bike. If you want to relace your current 6s hubs with new rims and spokes be very aware that your performance level will NOT change.
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Old 05-05-15, 12:43 PM
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Are you just looking for a freewheel wheel? I doubt this is an upgrade it is probably comparable to what you have.
Weinmann 519 Rear Wheel 700c x 35, QR Freewheel 5-7-Speed, 36H, Black
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Old 05-05-15, 07:03 PM
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Well, it appears he is looking for a matching set with a 6 speed freewheel rear. Maybe you can look on Ebay and find the front wheel that matches your existing rear wheel.

Or...

Get a set of 7 speed indexing shifters and go to a new wheelset with a 7 speed rear cassette.

Last edited by Jicafold; 05-05-15 at 07:26 PM.
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Old 05-05-15, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by upthywazzoo
... if you were really interested in getting new wheels, you might consider building them yourself with vintage, high quality hubs. That would probably run you $200 a pair for a decent set.
i recommend building your first set. if you follow sheldon's wheelbuilding page closely, it's easier than baking a soufflé.

sapim db spokes from danscomp and sun m13ii rims from niagara will cost you about $100.

sheldon recommends a lighter wheel in the front, like a 32-hole, paired with a 36-hole for the rear.

Weightwise, 21lbs is quite respectable.
very.
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