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Thread: NOS Brake Pads

  1. #1
    Senior Member crandress's Avatar
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    NOS Brake Pads

    Found some old (25 years or so), but new in the package Dia-Compe red brake pads. Are these OK to use, or do they brake down even though they are unused? Or how can I tell?

    Thanks for the help! Chris
    Chris
    http://futurecyclist.blogspot.com/

  2. #2
    Senior Member due ruote's Avatar
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    If they still seem somewhat pliable and not hard like rocks, I would still use them. Give them a quick once-over with a sanding block so you have a good fresh braking surface.

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    What??? Only 2 wheels? jimmuller's Avatar
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    Take the bike to the top of a large hill with a busy road crossing at the bottom. Ride down the hill. If you survive they are probably okay.

    Or as Yogi Berra said in the cookie commercial, you can tell how good they are just by eatin' 'em.
    Real cyclists use toe clips.
    jimmuller

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    Senior Member Lascauxcaveman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by due ruote View Post
    Give them a quick once-over with a sanding block so you have a good fresh braking surface.
    Because I'm cheap, and a lot of cheap bikes pass through my hands to be tuned and given away, I use this trick a lot. In the dozens of bikes I've got back on the road, I think I've only had to throw one set of brake pads away, from a Montgomery Wards bike over 40 years old.
    ● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1972 Peugeot UE-18 Mixte ● 1982 Motobecane Jubile Sport ● 1983 Nishiki Landau ● 1984 Peugeot PH10LE ● 1984 Bianchi Limited ● 1985 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Trek 600 ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1985 Raleigh Elkhorn ● 1986 Univega Nuovo Sport ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ● And a Bike to Be Named Later ●

  5. #5
    Senior Member crandress's Avatar
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    Thanks guys! Sounds like I can use them, but will make sure they are not solid rocks and I don't think they are. Found some pretty nice finds in my old bike stash. In the early 90's, I acquired a bunch of stuff from a former bike mechanic, most of which has been sitting in boxes ever since.

    Tim, how did your metric century go over there on the peninsula?

    Chris
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    Senior Member Lascauxcaveman's Avatar
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    Our second smallest turnout ever! (Four riders) I'm the only local who showed up; because the rest of them are rain wimps. It was pretty wet that day.
    ● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1972 Peugeot UE-18 Mixte ● 1982 Motobecane Jubile Sport ● 1983 Nishiki Landau ● 1984 Peugeot PH10LE ● 1984 Bianchi Limited ● 1985 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Trek 600 ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1985 Raleigh Elkhorn ● 1986 Univega Nuovo Sport ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ● And a Bike to Be Named Later ●

  7. #7
    rhm
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    multimodal commuter rhm's Avatar
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    I recently moved a rare set of Resilion Cantilever brakes (the original "Cantilever" brake) from the Dukie to my Fothergill bike. It was the last thing the Fothergill needed to be a convincing pre-war English bike. I don't know, for sure, how old the pads on the Resilions are; probably about 75 years old. Though NOS pads are available, and though I hear Shimano MTB pads will fit, the original ones are still good. Vastly improved braking.

  8. #8
    Senior Member crank_addict's Avatar
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    I would try those NOS pads. Not sure what rim material its being used for but I like the softer pad for steel rim (especially for wet) and a hard pad for aluminum.

    On rehab's, I'll toss the pads if they have an excessive angled wear pattern. For the majority of bikes, I use the cheapo Weinmann. Prepped with a scuff and proper toe-in, they work fine.

    Interesting how working with old cars and brake shoes are similar. Different than disc. It's called 'arcing' the shoe to the drum. We shave the brake shoe material to match the drum curvature. Most disregard that step and end up with new but poor braking.

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