Lets see those crappy but functional homemake tools
#1
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Lets see those crappy but functional homemake tools
I know there are some very talented tool makers on this site. But, how about the rest of us that dont have access to machinist tools. I had to take my Campy Veloce cranks off and didnt have the $100 tool kit to remove them. So I welded a cheap valve spring compressor and a worn out spin doctor bottom bracket wrench. The wrench fit nicely behind the crank are and the compressor pulled it right off. Worked great.
#2
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That's not cheap. It cost a welder! :-D
#3
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yeah, thats true. I've had a welder for a long time, so I didnt think of that. Way to pee on my post.
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My irresistable chainwhips, made from 1" pipe, bar steel, pop rivets, surplus chain, and welding courtesy of my nephew.
#6
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I think one of the easiest, but used the most is my headset cup remover. a pipe cut several times on the end to where it springs out. Then a large bolt welded into the other end.
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I made a cotter press out of a big old 'C' clamp and a socket. Worked a treat. (No photo)
#8
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My Bendix cone wrench, made from a cracked "peanut-butter wrench," a piece of 1/4" steel rod, and a washer:
Jig for brazing binder bolt barrels onto a seat lug:
Jig for brazing cantilever bosses:
Jig for brazing cable guides onto bottom bracket shell:
Jig for brazing lever bosses:
Jig for brazing binder bolt barrels onto a seat lug:
Jig for brazing cantilever bosses:
Jig for brazing cable guides onto bottom bracket shell:
Jig for brazing lever bosses:
#9
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my upside-down bike serves as a perfecly functioning truing stand. does that count? no? i didn't think so, but wanted to add something.
#10
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Look up Sheldon Brown's jig for adjusting wheel bearings while under compression. Its brilliant!
#11
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Home made tool for removing Campy Hub bearing Races. The PVC does not leave any marks on the hubs what so ever. The pulling strength of this tool is incredible. I also made a hub Race installer, that too works like a charm. You can see where the PVC rests on the hub, it never gets near the flange or spoke holes, so it can be used on built wheels too. Oh, and I also made PCV inserts to service Campy Pedal races.
#12
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Truing stand and dishing gauge.
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www.rhmsaddles.com.
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#13
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Jig for stretching leather saddle tops. I've made several of these, each incorporating successive improvements, and will probably make another one tomorrow.
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#15
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My DIY chain whip when I found myself needing a 2nd one to remove a Suntour cassette.
Re-used a non usable Sugino crankarm.
Re-used a non usable Sugino crankarm.
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#19
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Something entirely different
I really like these threads cuz, even if the solutions and execution is not elegant, the solutions can inspire someone else to solve their problem. So I needed a truing stand but had little bench space nor storage space. Then I pondered my ShopSmith machine. I'd used it before to balance motorcycle tires so built my truing stand in the same manner. I had some nice baltic plywood and some hardwood scraps around and some aluminum extrusions ( I save all sorts of stuff that looks useful). As you can see in the photo, mine is unique in that is horizontal, clamped to the main table and the extension table on one end.
The mounts for the axle slide back and forth a bit so I can center the wheel. The white aluminum sheet in front of the wheel is where I can make pencil marks at the rim edges then flip the wheel and check again to determine centering. I also use the edge of that aluminum panel to check for out of round. On each side of the slot you see thin cherry 'reeds' that are pointed and can lightly touch the wheel's rim, one on each side. These nicely sing when a high spot drags by. I can true to within 5 mil just from the sound. I can also visually monitor the gap where the point of the reed reflects off the rim.
If I really want to congradulate myself I can bring the dial indicator over to the rim and measure run out. I actually built that feature but don't use it. Truing by sound is pretty close and the brakes run smooth.
Bonus hack: there in front is the pin wrench I made for BB cups. I have some real high strength stainless wire left over from the electric fences that contain the horses. Tough stuff, hard to bend and hard to unbend and I just needed to bend the tips right and mounted it to a handle.
The mounts for the axle slide back and forth a bit so I can center the wheel. The white aluminum sheet in front of the wheel is where I can make pencil marks at the rim edges then flip the wheel and check again to determine centering. I also use the edge of that aluminum panel to check for out of round. On each side of the slot you see thin cherry 'reeds' that are pointed and can lightly touch the wheel's rim, one on each side. These nicely sing when a high spot drags by. I can true to within 5 mil just from the sound. I can also visually monitor the gap where the point of the reed reflects off the rim.
If I really want to congradulate myself I can bring the dial indicator over to the rim and measure run out. I actually built that feature but don't use it. Truing by sound is pretty close and the brakes run smooth.
Bonus hack: there in front is the pin wrench I made for BB cups. I have some real high strength stainless wire left over from the electric fences that contain the horses. Tough stuff, hard to bend and hard to unbend and I just needed to bend the tips right and mounted it to a handle.
#22
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Great stuff.
Will have to take some tool pictures as for a time I built a lot of little helpers and always seem to need a jig for this or that.
Will be brazing tomorrow so the (brake) jigs will be seeing some action.
Will have to take some tool pictures as for a time I built a lot of little helpers and always seem to need a jig for this or that.
Will be brazing tomorrow so the (brake) jigs will be seeing some action.
#23
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Thread Starter
I need to take a few more pics myself, I have a headset cup remover and a headset press. I also have a cheater helper to hold the bottom bracket wrench on the drive side cup.
#24
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Brilliant. I've been mulling over several DIY wheel building rigs and cannot believe I never thought of doing it that way. Especially since I have the space and parts lying about to do exactly as you have done here.
'Congradulations' indeed.
'Congradulations' indeed.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#25
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Thanks. I get caught in 'gumption traps' and often seek out ideas that break me loose. Glad this helped you. I really like the lay out and like the outcome. Sometimes it's my wife who wanders by, looks and says 'gee why don't you do it this way......" which brings out that clean sheet of paper.