Hudson308 

Picked up this "F0" serial Continental, and I'm in the process of tearing everything down for inspection/rebuilding. Unlike the vintage Raleigh seatpost in another thread, the 54 year-old chrome steel seat post in this tank came right out. However, the Ava stem has found itself a home. I'll try a couple of the endless strategies listed here to get it loose, but there may be another option for this particular bike.

The chrome fork is pretty badly pitted, and none of the sources I've checked show a full chrome fork on the '60 Continentals. The crown details are different than any '60s I've seen, as well. My "plan C" is to take the top nut and race on the headset loose so I can slide the fork down enough to have a peek at the steerer. If I don't find any copper paint, I'm thinking I'll just slice through the steerer above the crown race so I can take it to the bench and cut and peel the rest of it off the stem shaft. There may be some doubt that the stem is original too, but it's unique enough that I'd rather sacrifice the fork if I have to.
Thoughts?

reverborama

I had a Varsity stem stuck. Dribbled some Kroil in there and the next day it came right out..

auchencrow

I'm by no means very knowledgeable on old Schwinns, but I would have expected an .833 (21.15mm) quill on that bad boy. An AVA stem is typically 22.0mm. Could account for the reason it doesn't want to come out of there.

big chainring 

Early Continentals had a 22.2 steerer tube.

auchencrow

Phew!
All hope is not lost.

Metacortex

If you are interested in restoring, there are some great pics of a 1960 Continental with original parts here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/schwinn499/tags/1960/

I do think the stem is original, however many other parts (including the fork) look to be replacements. I would definitely try to save the stem.

pastorbobnlnh 

The fork looks from what I can see, to be the same as the one on my '62 Continental. Maybe it was a replacement in the mid '60s for some reason. Your stem is different from mine, but I'm with Meta, I'm betting it is original. Cool find. Is the FD in good shape? Obviously the brake levers with extensions are later replacements.

Hudson308 

Thanks for that!
Great resource to figure out exactly what I've got. I think two big challenges for a full-on resto will be finding a repro knob for the rod shifter, and the original "renaissance" style decals used in '60-61. All I can find are the later-style Continental graphics. I don't think I would even try to find a Simplex Tour de France RD, as they don't have much of a reputation.

Hudson308 

I'm happy to say the Simplex rod shifter FD looks fully restorable, but is missing the knob and rear cage spacer bolt. I'm having trouble uploading a picture right now. I'll try again after a bit.

Chombi

CRC's "Freeze-Off" can be your friend when trying to take out stuck stems and seatposts from steel frames and forks....

Hudson308 

Yeah that's one of the things I'm going to try. Do you buy that at a hardware, auto parts or computer supply store? When I loosen the headset I was thinking of trying a combination of pencil-torch on the steerer with freeze spray on the stem. It appears this stem was raised a bit at some point, which may work to my advantage.

Chombi

I think last time I bought a can was from an Ace Hardware store.
Remember to use the differential shrinking of materials through the freezing effect of the stuff to break the corrosive bond between the aluminum and steel parts. Hit the stem right above ( maybe an inch or so) where it goes into the steel steerer tube. Be generous with the stuff so it works itself between the stem and steerer tube. Make sure you are in a well ventilated area and not close to any flames as Freeze-Off is quite volatile.
Good luck!

oldbikenewbike

You have what they use to call the "SUICIDE" shifter. I wouldn't to lean over and keep doing that while riding!
Very rare to find one these days. NICE FIND!