Prowler 

I am continually impressed with the performance of my 1976 Raleigh Professional Mk IV. As I've dialed it in I've realized (as expected) that I've become the limiting factor. As I roll the miles under the BB I've shifted my focus from how the machine works to how I'm using it and to my technique. The latest focus is on shifting technique with the Campagnolo DT friction shifters.



My previous 10 speeds (Schwinn Varsity and Motobecane Mirage) were both stem shifters so a) I fully understand friction shifters and trimming and never crossing the chain, etc but b) I'm just guessing on the use of DT shifters. I'm very impressed with the quality of the Campagnolo NR 'transmission' - smooth, responsive and quiet (current KMC 9spd chain). This 45 year old design just keeps on working really well.

BUT how do you real cyclists handle operation of the shifters? How did the pros do it? I've researched some pretty old BF threads and have been practicing operating both levers with my right hand. I've started using my middle finger to locate the DT and my index finger and thumb to move the RD lever and my thumb to move the FD lever. Seems to work great. I've also been practicing riding with my right hand behind my back and left on the tops, the hoods and the drops so muscle memory learns to keep the bike on a steady line with one hand while I shift with the other. Don't the bike wandering into traffic while I shift. That's getting better too.

Please (for me and other noobs) toss up any advice or experiences. What works best for you? One hand, both hands, left, right? One technique on the flat, another on hills? C&V could probably use a current thread on shifting tips.

photogravity

I have two bicycles with DT shifters, one indexed and one friction, so I'm not sure what the best technique is. I'll be interested to see what others have to say, as I'd like to be more proficient with the couple I do have.

repechage

Right hand shifts the rear and also trims the front with the same reach, rarely also shifting to the small ring.
Left hand shifts the chainrings, pull back with steady conviction while easing up on the pedal effort or slam the lever forward when moving to the small ring, trim after if required.

I have to admit I had to really think about it, it is kind of like reaching down to loosen the toe straps prior to a stoplight, kind of second nature muscle memory time.
I have to think when using Ergo integrated shift/brake levers and clipless pedals. It takes to the end of a ride to not want to reach down when I ride that bike.

RobbieTunes

DISCLAIMER: I'm not a real cyclist, but I play one on BF.

1-I shift as fast, if not faster, on DT indexed shifters, just reach down and shift. It only takes a few shifts for your hands to "memorize" where to go. I actually prefer them for rolling terrain and hills, because you can go as many gears as you want, the chain settles where it ends, period. That's the R shifter, indexed.

2-The L shifter, for me, is the same whether indexed or friction, because it's simply friction in both cases. I've set it so I rarely need to trim, and for rolling terrain, it's either run forward, to the stop (small ring), or pulled back to the FD limit. This way, I can shift with my L hand or my R hand, because there are only two positions, forward and back. If I'm going to make a change with the R shifter, as well, I'll use my R hand, but most often, I simply reach down with my L hand and flick it. I have to tighten the L shifter about every 75 miles, about 1/8 of a turn, mainly because I'm not "easing it," I'm nailing it.

3-Friction shifting, on the R, isn't much different. I know where the shifter is, and what I want to do with it, so I reach down and do it. It takes 2-3 rides of 40-50 miles before my hand "memorizes" where to go for 1, 2, or 3 cogs, much like playing a guitar or a trombone. Because of the lower number of cogs, I rarely shift more than 1 cog at a time on those bikes. If I'm not accurate, I "tune by ear," because like the OP, I use a narrower chain than necessary, and when it's right, it's silent.

4-My body position rarely changes during shifts, because I ride the drops. It's more awkward from the hoods, but I see no reason why a rider wouldn't get used to it, as well.

It looks like you've put thought into practice, and you're probably getting proficient. Everyone is a little different. BF member norskagent shifts his friction Campy like it's indexed, quickly, and after observing him (on his McLean Silk Hope) I told myself I should try to get that efficient. I doubt I am, but I've run crits on DT shifters (not friction) and you'd be surprised how "accurate" you get when you have to be. A road champion once told me, "just reach down and do it."

Then again, I'm running Suntour friction, and it darn near shifts itself.

jimmuller 

FWIW...

I usually shift each lever with the hand on that side, but not always. For a chainring-downshift/cog-upshift (to reach a crossover gear ratio) I sometimes pus the left lever forward with my right thumb and shift the right lever with the rest of my hand. Occasionally I'll shift either side with the "wrong" hand, but not usually. Sometimes when I need to shift the cogs up or down in a hurry because of an upcoming terrain change I'll just flick at the lever without regard for how far; it's a feel thing and usually results in clean shift to a gear I want.

I ride the hoods most of the time. I have no trouble with bike control during a shift. What bugs me the most is that the lever location isn't the same bike to bike! On the Gran Sport, for example, the boss to prevent the levers from sliding down the DT was brazed on lower than I'd like. Sometimes I'll reach for a lever and miss, until I remember what bike I'm on.

rhm

I do pretty much all my shifting with my right hand. Under ideal circumstances I shift one or two cogs and then trim both shifters so there's no noise, but if I'm in a hurry I'll reach down and throw the rear shifter what seems the right amount and get my hand back on the handlebar before I'm even sure if the shift worked, then go back and trim away the noise when things are less hectic.

With a 42 or 45 smaller chain ring, I can go for hours without touching the front shifter.

chewa

I still use D/T on my Scot, and only ever use my right hand for both front and rear. It means i never ride with the age correct Bluemels pump in it's pegs, as it gets in the way of my thumb when reaching for the left hand shifter . It can't manage the pressures now anyway.

John

rootboy 

Right on right
Left does left

If in sketchy or bumpy terrain I'll move my hand that's still on the bars to the center up near the stem while I shift with the other.
But not often.

The Golden Boy 

I do Right - Right
Left - Left

Trim with either Right or Left.

Bandera

Riding in a club paceline "back when", let alone in a race, used to be much busier and demanded fine skills that aren't required anymore.

Just to get started took selection of the right gear, tightening the dominant foot toe-strap and launching off.
Kicking into the off-foot clip, cleating-in, deciding how many revolutions before reaching down to tighten the off-foot toe-strap and banging a good clean up-shift all occupied the 1st seconds of every ride. Mess-up any of that and you are banging shoulders, wobbling about and getting dropped.

All of the strap tightening before big climbs, selecting a gear that you are committed to for sprinting ( too big and you bog, too small and you spin-out ) doesn't happen any more w/ clipless pedals & brifters.

I still ride DT controls on two of my bikes and clips & straps on one, old skills never fade away if you keep using them.
Right hand to shift rear & trim, left to smartly shift front & trim.
Right to retrieve/replace water bottle, left to loosen/tighten off-foot toe-strap.

-Bandera

CO_Hoya 

This. Not that I claim to be a proficient shifter.

JohnDThompson 

I shift both levers with my right hand. The thumb operates the front shifter; the fingers the rear. With a little practice you can shift both derailleurs at the same time.

AFWIW, I've never been terribly impressed with those Campagnolo downtube shifters. If you want to see how nice friction shifting can be, find some Simplex "retrofriction" or SunTour "Power" shifters and don't worry about it being non-original.

John E

I like downtube friction shifting (original Campag. NR levers on Bianchi and Capos), except when a crosswind makes the Bianchi a little squirrelly, and I would prefer to keep both hands on the bars. No special technique -- you just feel and listen for the gears, and even Frank Berto's infamous late-compensation technique of overshift-and-back off becomes automatic.

Since I favor either half-step or 1.5-step gearing, I do have to deal w/ occasional double shifts, which can be done either two-hand sequentially or with one hand, such as the above-described technique of throwing the left lever forward w/ the right thumb while advancing the right lever by one cog for a downshift or two cogs for an upshift.

With a short and direct cable linkage and very little opportunity for cable housing compression, downtube shifting is inherently very fast and responsive, once you train yourself to it.

jeirvine 

Interesting discussion - hadn't really thought about it. I'm right handed but usually shift both levers with the left hand. I use either Simplex retrofrictions or Suntour power shifters. I find one-handed double shifting with the retrofrictions is pretty quick and easy.

Sixty Fiver

I drop my thumb to the top tube and shift both levers with my right hand.

Homebrew01

I always shifted both with the right. Since double shifts are needed sometimes, it's quicker to shift both with the same hand.
Especially important when racing to be quick and get both hands back on the bars.

Either shifter, hook the thumb over the top of the lever & pull back.

Prowler 

Great ideas folks. I've learned that the 'dumb' questions often unearth gold nuggets. Early on riding BMW airheads some old fella mentioned when shifting 'preload the shifter and only flick the clutch lever - not too much". Really minor things that no one mentions and I would not have thought of. Made a huge difference in how smooth the shifting was and without his comment I would have just slogged along assuming I had it right.

Sorta like the Randy Newman lyrics: "there aint no book you can read, there aint nobody to tell you, but I don't think I'm getting what everybody's getting. Maybe I'm doing it wrong."

Keep the ideas coming if you like.

2000Para853red

DT friction shifting I use the right hand for the right control and left hand for the left control. For some reason on my campy left control to the front derailleur (nuovo record) if I kick it forward a bit then back it shifts faster to the big chainring using that technique? Not sure why...may just be a quirk with mine.

Eric S.

I have DT shifters on my 3 road bikes, a 2004 LeMond being the newest (happy that it has shifter bosses on the frame!).

I do all shifting by right hand.

As far as friction, I have tried it out but find it very difficult with 8- and/or 9-speed drivetrains. The last time I really *had to* use friction shifting was a mid-'80s Bianchi Special. I haven't really done it much on my 8-speed bike, but 9-speed is not easy and would take some serious practice.

Chr0m0ly 

I came to cycling from motorcycling, so I actually swapped my front brake to the right hand lever and shift lefty. This way also reminds me of playing a stringed instrument, fingering the fret board with the left hand.

PatTheSlat 

I'm just a fake cyclist, but I always use my right hand on downtube shifters. I've actually thought of this question before, I always wondered if I was weird for shifting both levers with my right hand. For some reason I'm more comfortable with just my left hand on the bars rather than just my right (which is strange since I'm right handed).

Chombi

It's good that you took on quite well with Campy's NR derailleur, and you don't weem to find any problems with it on your bike. Saying that, I would suggest that if you haven't, try a real good shifting, non indexed derailleur like Suntour's 1st and second gen (MkII) Cyclone derailleur sets on your bike(s), and you should be in non-indexed shifting Nirvana.
Yes, the NR does shift OK but is quite slow compared to the slant parallelogram Suntours. The NR also requires a lot of "overshift" to get it to move over to the next gear, so it's not as efficient as the Suntours or Shimanos....or even the Simplex's....although it still wins overall in the RD beauty contest with it's classic design.

jimmuller 

What he said. Exactly what he said.

I have a 1st gen Cyclone on my Bianchi. It shifts silently, precisely, easily. Sometimes the only clue it shifted at all is the subtle change in cadence.

rootboy 

This is a real interesting phenomena to me, Pat. Being right handed too, I feel the same way. I wonder if it has to do with muscle memory, built up from the old days, or if it has something to do with the dominant hand thing.

Steve Whitlatch 

I will have to practice the right hand shifting both levers at the same time thing. I use Suntour Superbe Pro friction shifting. Very short pulls between gears. Once you get used to it, you do not need to trim much at all. Very fast quiet and precise shifting.