Steel frame for hybrid/commuting build -- recommendations?
06-29-14, 06:08 AM
#26
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Do you mean these, the 1991-94 examples from Schwinn's Paramount Design Group:
1992 Schwinn Paramount (PDG) Series 90, 70, 50 or 40 MTB frameset -- Tange Prestige butted CrMo steel, except Tange base CrMo steel in the 40 series; Shimano LX DX or XT in 40-70, with Suntour XC Pro in 90. Shimano Deore and Diacomp 987 brakes.
As with any frames, standover height max would be vital for me.
1992 Schwinn Paramount (PDG) Series 90, 70, 50 or 40 MTB frameset -- Tange Prestige butted CrMo steel, except Tange base CrMo steel in the 40 series; Shimano LX DX or XT in 40-70, with Suntour XC Pro in 90. Shimano Deore and Diacomp 987 brakes.
As with any frames, standover height max would be vital for me.
Many of the "typical" MTB type bikes, though, have far too high of a standover height for me. (Size, medical issues.) As I said, max standover height is sub-28", though shorter is better. Most MTB's in my correct size (ETT) result in 30" standover or taller. No can do, period, sadly. There seem to be lots of great frames in steel for MTB's, back when, but most are just too tall for me to deal with.
Pretty much relegates me to drop-tube (TT) arrangements, mixte formats, "ladies" frame formats, or some of the shorter hybrid/MTB styles.
.
Pretty much relegates me to drop-tube (TT) arrangements, mixte formats, "ladies" frame formats, or some of the shorter hybrid/MTB styles.
.
Sizing....the big problem with any conventional sized wheel bike is the wheels themselves. Regardless on it having 700c, 27 or 26" wheels each mandates a minimum crown height which in turn mandates a minimum TT height. The only way around these minimums is to run short sidewall tires which lowers the entire bike or slope the TT. A TT that slopes a total of 4" from the effective will only have a 2" reduction in standover mid tube.
In the early 90's Miyata's 'Elevation' series bikes were available with 13" frames....their TT's where in-line, if not making a shallow 'V' with the seat stay's!!!
That being said, the PDG70 I have has a 28.5" stand over measure mid tube with 26" street tires.
06-29-14, 10:43 AM
#27
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Many of the "typical" MTB type bikes, though, have far too high of a standover height for me. (Size, medical issues.) As I said, max standover height is sub-28", though shorter is better. Most MTB's in my correct size (ETT) result in 30" standover or taller. No can do, period, sadly. There seem to be lots of great frames in steel for MTB's, back when, but most are just too tall for me to deal with.
I understand your description and needs, that's why I suggested the 15" frame with the sloping top tube.
Looking at the top tube/seat tube junction and knowing the rear wheel is 26", the stand over height would be about 27" given that junction is lower than the height of the rear tire. I'd offer you my 14" Cannondale M500 but you're looking for steel. My daughter is riding a '95 12" frame Barracuda right now, the C'dale was for her but I found a mint condition '88 Easton Replex ALX99 in pink/blue (her 2 favorite colors), so now the M500 hangs in the garage. She is 9 years old and not quite 5' tall, so I know there are good steel frames that will fit your needs.
06-29-14, 11:18 AM
#28
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Many of the "typical" MTB type bikes, though, have far too high of a standover height for me. (Size, medical issues.) As I said, max standover height is sub-28", though shorter is better. Most MTB's in my correct size (ETT) result in 30" standover or taller. No can do, period, sadly. There seem to be lots of great frames in steel for MTB's, back when, but most are just too tall for me to deal with.
Pretty much relegates me to drop-tube (TT) arrangements, mixte formats, "ladies" frame formats, or some of the shorter hybrid/MTB styles.
I've been mulling the idea of mixte frames in a decent steel, as well. Most of these are much more of a road frame than hybrid/MTB, of course. And that's fine. There seem to be a few decent examples over the years, such as the Lotus Excelle or Challenger SX mixte frames from the 1980's. Don't now of other "decent" steel examples from the era.
Pretty much relegates me to drop-tube (TT) arrangements, mixte formats, "ladies" frame formats, or some of the shorter hybrid/MTB styles.
I've been mulling the idea of mixte frames in a decent steel, as well. Most of these are much more of a road frame than hybrid/MTB, of course. And that's fine. There seem to be a few decent examples over the years, such as the Lotus Excelle or Challenger SX mixte frames from the 1980's. Don't now of other "decent" steel examples from the era.
I also rarely see mixtes with more than 56cm top tubes.
Sorry I missed your ETT requirement before. I'd still find a nice 15" MTB. Mine has 27.5 standover just in front of saddle, 28" center of TT. 56cm ETT. Put a 130mm stem on there and you're in business.
If cost is no object then there's the Trimble. (or maybe you get REALLY lucky in the used market) Nice and light, 26" standover.
26Frame
Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 06-29-14 at 11:29 AM.
06-29-14, 02:29 PM
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+1 to an old Specialized. GREAT steel frames, crazy cheap on Craigslist.
I've hung onto my old 1997 Specialize Rockhopper since new. No suspension, just a great, butted steel frame. It's at least two pounds lighter than my similar Trek 830 was (it was stolen). The ride is fabulous, even with a steel fork.
These bikes go for $75 - $125 in good shape on Craigslist in my area.
I've hung onto my old 1997 Specialize Rockhopper since new. No suspension, just a great, butted steel frame. It's at least two pounds lighter than my similar Trek 830 was (it was stolen). The ride is fabulous, even with a steel fork.
These bikes go for $75 - $125 in good shape on Craigslist in my area.
06-29-14, 11:16 PM
#30
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Barracuda made some NICE light steel frames with a high TT:standover ratio. 14" frame has 22" TT and 26.5" standover.
A2E and A2V were made of Tange Prestige Ultimate - very nice tubes.
A2E and A2V were made of Tange Prestige Ultimate - very nice tubes.
Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 06-29-14 at 11:33 PM.
06-29-14, 11:29 PM
#31
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Man, I really need to begin a concentrated search for one of those myself. I'm a big fan of the long and low.
06-30-14, 12:40 AM
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Clyde,
I have a 1992 Specialized Rockhopper Sport frameset with a 16" seat tube. Since it's a mtb, it takes 26" (559mm) wheels. It was originally selected for my 5'3" ex-wife.
If you don't mind a step-through frame (which is what I'd recommend anyway), I also have an early 90s Raleigh Technium CT-200 hybrid step-through frameset, mid size (~21"), 700C wheels, 135mm spacing, cantilever brake bosses. Getting mounted won't be an issue, but the bike won't be so cramped, the wheelbase longer and wheels more desirable for a commuter. Attempting to get fitted to a diamond frame will result in a smaller frame, and not many will have the long top tube you need.
I can let these go at a real good price to someone who can put them to good use.
I have a 1992 Specialized Rockhopper Sport frameset with a 16" seat tube. Since it's a mtb, it takes 26" (559mm) wheels. It was originally selected for my 5'3" ex-wife.
If you don't mind a step-through frame (which is what I'd recommend anyway), I also have an early 90s Raleigh Technium CT-200 hybrid step-through frameset, mid size (~21"), 700C wheels, 135mm spacing, cantilever brake bosses. Getting mounted won't be an issue, but the bike won't be so cramped, the wheelbase longer and wheels more desirable for a commuter. Attempting to get fitted to a diamond frame will result in a smaller frame, and not many will have the long top tube you need.
I can let these go at a real good price to someone who can put them to good use.
06-30-14, 04:52 AM
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We were a Barracuda dealer back in the day, very nice bikes indeed. The 'Tre Amigos' XX Team Dos Equis is killer....
06-30-14, 10:45 AM
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Man I love that NOS XX on ebay with the red ano rims and other bits.
I don't even care if that's alu or post Ross.
I don't even care if that's alu or post Ross.
Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 06-30-14 at 10:51 AM.
06-30-14, 12:49 PM
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Check this out from the Barracuda fan site:
They then went to see John Parker at Yeti, who was hired to continue with production. Mountain Bike pioneers Chris Herting and Frank "the welder" Wadelton were both working for Yeti at the time and were largely responsible for these early Barracuda bikes. They also built up the first bikes for the race team
06-30-14, 02:07 PM
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clyde....
my two cents all is IMHO/E and ymmv
Forget about suspension forks, unless you are really going on trails, not pavement... they cost a lot of energy and most people who ride on streets/roads for commuting lock them up.
How long will your commute be one way..... this may make a difference. Ie if you are doing 10-15 miles oneway you might consider drops
as a general statement Japanese bike for from the 80' early 90's make a fantastic base for what you are doing.... Nishiki, Univega, centurion, bridgestone, Miyata, panasonic. many had eyelets and more of a touring geometry.
here is what I did with a nishiki olympic 12 (purchased new) The seatpost, fork and frame are the only original parts left
700c wheel conversion, double pivot brakes, 1x8 with thumb shifter, nitto dirt drop stem and handle bar (stem like that may help with your standover...otherwise a mixte of the same era and manufactures may be the ticket) wald baskets
my two cents all is IMHO/E and ymmv
Forget about suspension forks, unless you are really going on trails, not pavement... they cost a lot of energy and most people who ride on streets/roads for commuting lock them up.
How long will your commute be one way..... this may make a difference. Ie if you are doing 10-15 miles oneway you might consider drops
as a general statement Japanese bike for from the 80' early 90's make a fantastic base for what you are doing.... Nishiki, Univega, centurion, bridgestone, Miyata, panasonic. many had eyelets and more of a touring geometry.
here is what I did with a nishiki olympic 12 (purchased new) The seatpost, fork and frame are the only original parts left
700c wheel conversion, double pivot brakes, 1x8 with thumb shifter, nitto dirt drop stem and handle bar (stem like that may help with your standover...otherwise a mixte of the same era and manufactures may be the ticket) wald baskets
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Last edited by squirtdad; 06-30-14 at 02:58 PM.
06-30-14, 02:44 PM
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I now I am very late to the party but just be sure you get a full ChroMO frame and fork.
I would look for a upperend Univega like a Via Carisma or Via Montega, but they seem hard to find. If you stumble across a Bianchi Project 3 or 5 they would make a great commuter. My Project 3 does almost anything!
I would look for a upperend Univega like a Via Carisma or Via Montega, but they seem hard to find. If you stumble across a Bianchi Project 3 or 5 they would make a great commuter. My Project 3 does almost anything!
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06-30-14, 02:57 PM
#40
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This is the best Mixte I've ever ridden. Reynolds 531, DA crank, Shimano DX pedals, Suntour shifters, Superchampion rims... So smooth and fast!
ETT was 54cm, well below you're desired ETT, however. I think a 58cm ETT mixte might be kinda hard to come by.
DSC_0004 by Lester Luallin, on Flickr
ETT was 54cm, well below you're desired ETT, however. I think a 58cm ETT mixte might be kinda hard to come by.
DSC_0004 by Lester Luallin, on Flickr
06-30-14, 03:03 PM
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another thought.....depending on budget
Soma mixte.... you can get your stand over and reach with this one
Buena Vista Frame Set | SOMA Fabrications
Soma mixte.... you can get your stand over and reach with this one
Buena Vista Frame Set | SOMA Fabrications
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
06-30-14, 03:07 PM
#42
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Hey that's pretty cool. Didn't know anyone made big mixtes. The 58cm Buena Vista certainly looks like the way to go.
06-30-14, 03:42 PM
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Seeing that Mixte made me think of my old dirt jumper... maybe you should consider buying a dirt jumper bike.
Most D.J. bikes have the following features:
* - steel frames with extreme sloping top tube
* - front suspension
* - powerful disc brakes with great stopping power
* - overbuilt wheels that are ideal for city streets (less maintenance, see below)
* - high handlebar to seat post ratio for comfortable upright riding position
Also, keep in mind that since you are running disc brakes instead of rim brakes you don't need to worry about your wheels being "true" since you have no rim brake pads to rub... allows for greater abuse without the mandatory wheel truing that usually comes from riding on city streets.
This is a great example of a very good value that would fit the O.P. needs, it has a medium frame with appx. 23" stand over.
Azonic Steelhead - $200
Azonic Steelhead
Medium frame
Shimano XT cranks
Shimano Deore LX disc brakes
Shimano Deore XT front and rear derailleur + brake lever/shifter
Mavic Crossride wheels
Manitou Minute 100-130mm adjustable fork
9 speed cassette in the rear, two sprockets up front (granny gear setup for climbing)
It's just sitting in my storage unit and I want to get rid of it ASAP as I am moving.
*edit*
Here are some additional frame specs for the O.P. to consider, please note the effective top tube height is only 21.7 inches with a 13.5 inch seat tube. Even with your 28 inch maximum stand over height, you'll have 6 inches to spare plus all the other frame benefits listed. Here are the specs from Azonic but these specs are typical of most dirt jumper frames, so there is no need to be brand specific in your search but Azonic is the best in my opinion for overall comfort.
Features:
4130 Chromoly tubing
IS chain guide and disk brake mount
1/4” drop outs
Adjustable brake mount
Removable derailleur hanger
Specifications:
• Head Angle - 71
• Seat Angle - 72.5
• Chainstay Length - 16.5” (420 mm)
• Wheel Base - 41.5” (1043 mm)
• Eff T.Tube - 21.7” (554 mm)
• Seat Post Diameter - 27.2 mm
• Seat Tube - 13.5”
• H Tube Length - 28.6 mm
• Bottom Bracket - 68 mm
Most D.J. bikes have the following features:
* - steel frames with extreme sloping top tube
* - front suspension
* - powerful disc brakes with great stopping power
* - overbuilt wheels that are ideal for city streets (less maintenance, see below)
* - high handlebar to seat post ratio for comfortable upright riding position
Also, keep in mind that since you are running disc brakes instead of rim brakes you don't need to worry about your wheels being "true" since you have no rim brake pads to rub... allows for greater abuse without the mandatory wheel truing that usually comes from riding on city streets.
This is a great example of a very good value that would fit the O.P. needs, it has a medium frame with appx. 23" stand over.
Azonic Steelhead - $200
Azonic Steelhead
Medium frame
Shimano XT cranks
Shimano Deore LX disc brakes
Shimano Deore XT front and rear derailleur + brake lever/shifter
Mavic Crossride wheels
Manitou Minute 100-130mm adjustable fork
9 speed cassette in the rear, two sprockets up front (granny gear setup for climbing)
It's just sitting in my storage unit and I want to get rid of it ASAP as I am moving.
*edit*
Here are some additional frame specs for the O.P. to consider, please note the effective top tube height is only 21.7 inches with a 13.5 inch seat tube. Even with your 28 inch maximum stand over height, you'll have 6 inches to spare plus all the other frame benefits listed. Here are the specs from Azonic but these specs are typical of most dirt jumper frames, so there is no need to be brand specific in your search but Azonic is the best in my opinion for overall comfort.
Features:
4130 Chromoly tubing
IS chain guide and disk brake mount
1/4” drop outs
Adjustable brake mount
Removable derailleur hanger
Specifications:
• Head Angle - 71
• Seat Angle - 72.5
• Chainstay Length - 16.5” (420 mm)
• Wheel Base - 41.5” (1043 mm)
• Eff T.Tube - 21.7” (554 mm)
• Seat Post Diameter - 27.2 mm
• Seat Tube - 13.5”
• H Tube Length - 28.6 mm
• Bottom Bracket - 68 mm
Last edited by neo_pop_71; 06-30-14 at 05:14 PM. Reason: added frame specs
06-30-14, 03:44 PM
#44
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I have been sort of dreaming about that one for years.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
07-01-14, 01:50 AM
#45
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How long will your commute be one way..... this may make a difference. Ie if you are doing 10-15 miles oneway you might consider drops
The commute distance will be < 15mi one way. Longer, weekend rides will be up to 50mi or so. I appreciate the question of changing hand positions related to comfort. But there's my back and shoulders to consider as well, as with anyone. No can do, "big" and traditional drops.
as a general statement Japanese bike for from the 80' early 90's make a fantastic base for what you are doing.... Nishiki, Univega, centurion, bridgestone, Miyata, panasonic. many had eyelets and more of a touring geometry.
Slowly, I'm digging into these and trying to identify the good ones. Plenty of schlock out there. Some years with some models were, though, produced with great steels and are justifiably known for their quality. I'm just unaware of which ones are the "gems" at this point, from the standpoint of build quality.Have seen ads for a couple of Lotus Excelle and Challenger mixte bikes, but have yet to see one up for sale for anything less than $500. They don't come up that often. And nobody seems to want to let go a Lotus Challenger SX mixte for sub-$100, these days. Can't imagine why.
here is what I did with a nishiki olympic 12 (purchased new) The seatpost, fork and frame are the only original parts left ... 700c wheel conversion, double pivot brakes, 1x8 with thumb shifter, nitto dirt drop stem and handle bar (stem like that may help with your standover...otherwise a mixte of the same era and manufactures may be the ticket)
Dislike shifters on the downtube or stem, myself. Would want to change over to a different shifter arrangement, on whatever I do get.
07-01-14, 02:00 AM
#46
Still learning
Have seen ads for a couple of Lotus Excelle and Challenger mixte bikes, but have yet to see one up for sale for anything less than $500. They don't come up that often. And nobody seems to want to let go a Lotus Challenger SX mixte for sub-$100, these days. Can't imagine why.
07-01-14, 02:10 AM
#47
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Soma mixte.... you can get your stand over and reach with this one
Buena Vista Frame Set | SOMA Fabrications
Buena Vista Frame Set | SOMA Fabrications
Have been drooling over that one for some weeks, now. In the format, it's a nice one. A 58cm perhaps. At 8lbs, it's no flyweight, but it'll do. Sure beats a lot of the 1970-80's stuff that's out there.
07-01-14, 02:27 AM
#48
Still learning
Not impressed with the lugless TIG welding.
Last edited by oddjob2; 07-01-14 at 07:11 AM.
07-01-14, 09:36 AM
#50
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Ouch that's heavy. I think starting with a 14" Barracuda would be the best way to meet your reqs. The a2v and a2e are both around 25 lbs complete in 1998. 26.5" is gonna feel nice and low. 22" TT with 20mm longer stem than you'd regularly run on a 23" should net the reach you need.