This is my Nishiki Barbarian, serial number 3C A90021775. Bought for $20 a few years back from someone who had owned it from new. It's my first real project, and I'm looking for input. Should I be considering a full restoration and repaint, or maybe just refurbish and protect. Is there a way to get decals recreated? Shimano throughout, Exage 500LX. Shifters, derailleurs, hubs, crankset. Brake levers and calipers also Shimano, though no model shown. I'm Unsure of the bottom bracket. I've been having trouble with the front shifter/derailleurs, they wont pull onto the largest chainring. I've heard of them sticking after years of use, is there a way to fix this? The bottom bracket also needs a replacement or repair, suggestions.
Most of the swapped paint on your frame will come off with a little fine cut rubbing compound. After that, a good wax and you'll likely be happy with the results. That's a colorful and unusual paint scheme and it would be a shame to cover it with some generic look.
I bet the derailleurs will work fine with a clean & lube & new cables; from the pix, they don't look bent or worn out (although pix don't always tell). Bottom bracket is easy enough to replace.
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1972 Peugeot UE-18 Mixte ● 1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1982 Bianchi Limited ● 1984 Nishiki Landau ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Trek 600 ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Univega Nuovo Sport ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Raleigh Technium ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ● And a Bike to Be Named Later ●
A great vintage Elevated-stay mtb. The finish isn't so bad and should be preserved. Some touch up paint and wax, the finish looks worthy of saving. The components are decent too, Exage 500LX is top of the Exage line up. Chainrings are aluminum instead of steel, cantilevers are better spec, and you have the U-brake mounted at the seat stays.
The BB cup may be loose.
I have a similar frame with 500LX in a Titan Cycles 500LX. Your's looks way better.
$20 is a great score for this Nishiki.
Edit: I just noticed the the extra bracing in the frame....similar to the Nishiki Alien/Ariel bikes. Cunningham probably had some input to this model too!
Gave it a good clean and polish yesterday, looks much better, though does anyone know how products such as NU finish works on components and other aluminum hardware? After a little tuning and a wheel true, it's running much more smoothly. There are still shifting problems, my rear downshifter is still sticking, it will advance just no clicking back into position. I doused it in penetrating oil, then lube. Also when i get in to the smaller cassette rings, my pedals are jumping. Any clue as to the cause/solution. I thought touch up paint might stand out, do you have any suggestions for seamless cover ups? As of now I'm wanting to touch the paint up, replace/reapair BB, new bars and pedals, rear pannier and bottle cages.
Bikes: 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra w/ Drop Bars
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With the age of your bike the cables and housing can cause binding, causing the bike appear to shift by itself- same thing for the derailleur- it clicks to the next gear because the shifter pulls the right amount of cable- if your tension isn't adjusted properly it'll almost shift or maybe shift, but want to go back as things move around.
There's some great "how to adjust a derailleur" videos on the YouTubes.
I guess the quick, cheap way is check out the videos, adjust the derailleur- if you've still got problems replace the cables and housing.
As an aside, I used to not believe that housing made much of a difference. I had some housing that I thought looked cool and it looked like it was in good shape to me. My bike shifted for garbage and I couldn't get it to work right. I had 2 LBSs tell me to get new housing- and I apparently knew better- but as soon as I replaced the housing- magic happened.
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