New-to-me Cannondale ST500....advice needed on build plan...
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
New-to-me Cannondale ST500....advice needed on build plan...
Hi all – I've been lurking in the C&V and Touring forums for some time and finally have a reason to post.
I recently picked up a 1985 (?) Cannondale ST500 in fair original condition...question mark on the year as the parts are a mix of those spec'd in the 1984 and 1985 brochures, but it has a “BB” serial number – perhaps a late 1984 build? I'm looking to restore and update it to be a nice daily commuting rig/occasional touring rig to augment the Giant ATX780 XT-equipped Cr-Mo mountain bike I'm riding today. Given the generally scruffy condition of the original parts, I'm definitely looking to update the drivetrain, and hopefully the parts I remove and sell can help someone else going for authenticity. A quick summary of how it sits today:
The budget build...
Another option...opening up the wallet a bit farther...
Anyway, I'm sure I could come up with 1,000 different scenarios on how to build this bike. If it were yours, how would you build it?
Thanks...
Jason
I recently picked up a 1985 (?) Cannondale ST500 in fair original condition...question mark on the year as the parts are a mix of those spec'd in the 1984 and 1985 brochures, but it has a “BB” serial number – perhaps a late 1984 build? I'm looking to restore and update it to be a nice daily commuting rig/occasional touring rig to augment the Giant ATX780 XT-equipped Cr-Mo mountain bike I'm riding today. Given the generally scruffy condition of the original parts, I'm definitely looking to update the drivetrain, and hopefully the parts I remove and sell can help someone else going for authenticity. A quick summary of how it sits today:
- Suntour Cyclone Mk II front derailleur with Sachs Huret Duopar Eco rear derailleur
- 5-speed Suntour freewheel with SR Apex triple crankset (obsolete BCD, apparently)
- Suntour Superbe downtube shifters
- Specialized sealed cartridge bearing 36H hubs with Wolber 58 27” rims
- Modelo caliper brakes
- Tange headset (probably steel)
- SR stem and seatpost, Belleri Randonneur bars, Sella Italia Touring saddle
The budget build...
- Shimano Deore M591 front and rear derailleurs
- Sugino XD 600 crankset with Shimano sealed cartridge bottom bracket
- Tektro R539 brakes and matching aero levers
- Rebuild/polish the Specialized hubs and have them relaced to 700c Velocity Dyad rims
- Shimano TZ21 7-speed freewheel to replace the current 5-speed
- Polish and reuse the stem, seatpost, handlebars, and downtube shifters
- Polish and rebuild the Tange headset
Another option...opening up the wallet a bit farther...
- Shimano M772 XT rear derailleur with M771 XT front derailleur
- Shimano M770 XT crankset with Hollowtech bottom bracket (not sure on compatibility?)
- Same Tektro brakes as above....potentially 105 or Ultegra level 8-speed or 9-speed brifters, if available?
- White Industries T11 36H rear cassette hub (130mm) with T11 front hub laced to 700c Velocity Dyads
- Shimano 8 or 9-speed cassette...really don't see me needing much more than 8
- May spend some bucks at Rivendell for Nitto stem and seatpost, and potentially different bars?
- Not sure on headset upgrades...something decent in 1” threaded
Anyway, I'm sure I could come up with 1,000 different scenarios on how to build this bike. If it were yours, how would you build it?
Thanks...
Jason
#2
Bianchi Goddess
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 29,682
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
Mentioned: 190 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2896 Post(s)
Liked 2,784 Times
in
1,441 Posts
IMHO tune it and ride it then decide. Older Cdales are not for everyone. The true touring frames I believe rode a little better but Cdales can be rough.
Check the rear dropout spacing carefully you may find you don't like the effort it takes to shove a 130 spaced hub in there. You can't coldest/spread a Cadale like you can an old steel frame to take wider hubs.
Check the rear dropout spacing carefully you may find you don't like the effort it takes to shove a 130 spaced hub in there. You can't coldest/spread a Cadale like you can an old steel frame to take wider hubs.
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#3
Still learning
Contrary to Bianchigirll's comment, they ride like a 450SEL on 27" rims. This is an LL Bean edition based on an ST frame. Her advice to ride it as is for while is great advice. The OEM rack is so cool.
Last edited by oddjob2; 07-02-14 at 06:33 AM.
#4
Expired Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,431
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3629 Post(s)
Liked 5,295 Times
in
2,690 Posts
You won't need the mountain bike derailleurs unless you want a really big cassette. On my ST I use Shimano 9 speed bar ends with a 105 triple fd, Ultegra GS rd and the Sugino XD triple. A cheap modern Mavic 700c wheelset fits fine but doesn't look very retro. Nitto Technomic stem and Noodle bars. I was a little disappointed in tire clearance but otherwise it's a pretty cool gravel/ rail trail bike.
#5
aka: Dr. Cannondale
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,838
Mentioned: 234 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2143 Post(s)
Liked 3,370 Times
in
1,192 Posts
We should talk. Many ways you can use the frame as a solid foundation for a super all rounder type of rig. Velomine is an excellent source for good hub/rim wheel set combinations. I really like the Ultegra/Open Pro 36 hole setup the best. I usually mount up 32's but there's room for 38's and fenders if you're a fender kinda guy.
Beyond that, almost any combination of 5500/5600/6500/6600 Shimano components will play well together. Agreed that any triple RD from one of those groups will work just fine up to a 28 tooth rear cog.
I usually have a component group started for future ST builds, might be able to help you out some. And if you don't have other plans for that Apex triple...
Beyond that, almost any combination of 5500/5600/6500/6600 Shimano components will play well together. Agreed that any triple RD from one of those groups will work just fine up to a 28 tooth rear cog.
I usually have a component group started for future ST builds, might be able to help you out some. And if you don't have other plans for that Apex triple...
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
Last edited by rccardr; 07-01-14 at 07:50 PM.
#6
Freewheel Medic
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: An Island on the Coast of GA!
Posts: 12,869
Bikes: Snazzy* Schwinns, Classy Cannondales & a Super Pro Aero Lotus (* Ed.)
Mentioned: 139 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1442 Post(s)
Liked 2,164 Times
in
952 Posts
Welcome to C&V and those who are fans of Cannondales young and old alike.
I would also recommend putting a few hundred miles on it as a way to reveal the best route to take. I recently did this with my '93 R600. Finally I decided on a compact double mated to a wide range 9 speed cassette operated by Nashbar/microSHIFT STI knockoffs. I could not be more pleased, but it took more than a dozen rides to decide which direction to take.
Best of luck on your project.
I would also recommend putting a few hundred miles on it as a way to reveal the best route to take. I recently did this with my '93 R600. Finally I decided on a compact double mated to a wide range 9 speed cassette operated by Nashbar/microSHIFT STI knockoffs. I could not be more pleased, but it took more than a dozen rides to decide which direction to take.
Best of luck on your project.
__________________
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
#8
Senior Member
Jason, Welcome to the forum.
I too suggest riding the bike as is for awhile to determine what you want to change. My only real suggestion is to consider dual pivot brakes from Tektro or Shimano, everything else is mostly preference and availability. Shimano mountain bike FDs usually (almost always) won't work with a Shimano road group FD indexed shifter.
Have fun.
Brad
I too suggest riding the bike as is for awhile to determine what you want to change. My only real suggestion is to consider dual pivot brakes from Tektro or Shimano, everything else is mostly preference and availability. Shimano mountain bike FDs usually (almost always) won't work with a Shimano road group FD indexed shifter.
Have fun.
Brad
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Port Angeles, WA
Posts: 8,016
Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.
Mentioned: 194 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1627 Post(s)
Liked 629 Times
in
355 Posts
Yep. Clean it, lube it and ride it a couple months before changing anything.
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#10
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Hi all - thanks for the warm welcome and your feedback.
Bianchigirll, trailmix, pastorbobinnh, and lascauxcaveman - All good advice, and thank you! The recommendation to tune and ride first is spot on...I've been known to dive into other projects (primarily motorcycles) head first and while I usually like the end result, I'm sure I could find areas where I would've been completely happy if I left well enough alone. I'm trying to minimize expense for parts that are (likely) getting replaced, and it's in desperate need of at least tires (dry rotted, cracked, cuts in tread) and brake pads (look like original 1985!). So far it's just been rides around the block figuring I can walk home when/if the tires let go, but maybe some money spent here (even if it won't be re-used) would be a good investment to get a better sense of the bike.
Very cool! I knew the aluminum would be a bit stiffer than cr-mo, but was hoping the Tange fork would help to soften some of that. It won't be quite as original, but would like to move to either 700x28 or even 700x32 tires and would hope that the wider footprint would offset any loss of "spring" in the slightly smaller wheels. If I can get to a 450SEL level of compliance, I'd be super happy.
Sounds like you've already built pretty close to what I had in mind! I'm at max extension currently on the SR stem and was considering a Nitto Technomic Tallux from Rivendell to give me the option for a little more height. The randonneur bars aren't bad, but they do feel a bit narrow...probably all things I can better assess when I get a few miles on it. I'm north of Rochester, NY, and while we have some elevation changes, I don't know that I need to get that crazy with a huge range cassette....I'd probably use ultra low now and again, but I'm not climbing mountain passes on a daily basis either. You mentioned being disappointed in tire clearance - what are you running currently?
Hi rccardr - seeing what you've done with these vintage C'dales has really helped give me some great ideas of where I'd like to see this one go. Heck, as much as I want a project to tinker on, I've been half-tempted to just send this down to The Lab to get the full treatment. Definitely would love to talk, and would be happy to keep you in mind on the SR crankset.
Thanks Brad - dual pivots are definitely high on the list. The original side-pull Modelos, with what look like original 1985 pads, provide about as much stopping power as a wet noodle. I'm thinking Tektro 539s in anticipation of a 700c conversion (looks like Shimano longer reach options are somewhat limited) and maybe KoolStop pads to help haul it down a bit quicker. I don't expect to be pulling "stoppies" with it anytime soon, but the stock brakes are scary! Thanks for the tips on indexing compatibility as well.
I'll try to get some pictures later this week or this weekend as the "before" shots...hopefully with some help, the "after" will look a heckuva lot better!
Thanks again for all your help...
Jason
Bianchigirll, trailmix, pastorbobinnh, and lascauxcaveman - All good advice, and thank you! The recommendation to tune and ride first is spot on...I've been known to dive into other projects (primarily motorcycles) head first and while I usually like the end result, I'm sure I could find areas where I would've been completely happy if I left well enough alone. I'm trying to minimize expense for parts that are (likely) getting replaced, and it's in desperate need of at least tires (dry rotted, cracked, cuts in tread) and brake pads (look like original 1985!). So far it's just been rides around the block figuring I can walk home when/if the tires let go, but maybe some money spent here (even if it won't be re-used) would be a good investment to get a better sense of the bike.
Originally Posted by oddjob2
Contrary to Bianchigirll's comment, they ride like a 450SEL on 27" rims.
Originally Posted by shelbyfv
You won't need the mountain bike derailleurs unless you want a really big cassette. On my ST I use Shimano 9 speed bar ends with a 105 triple fd, Ultegra GS rd and the Sugino XD triple. A cheap modern Mavic 700c wheelset fits fine but doesn't look very retro. Nitto Technomic stem and Noodle bars. I was a little disappointed in tire clearance but otherwise it's a pretty cool gravel/ rail trail bike.
Originally Posted by rccardr
We should talk. Many ways you can use the frame as a solid foundation for a super all rounder type of rig. Velomine is an excellent source for good hub/rim wheel set combinations. I really like the Ultegra/Open Pro 36 hole setup the best. I usually mount up 32's but there's room for 38's and fenders if you're a fender kinda guy.
Beyond that, almost any combination of 5500/5600/6500/6600 Shimano components will play well together. Agreed that any triple RD from one of those groups will work just fine up to a 28 tooth rear cog.
I usually have a component group started for future ST builds, might be able to help you out some. And if you don't have other plans for that Apex triple...
Beyond that, almost any combination of 5500/5600/6500/6600 Shimano components will play well together. Agreed that any triple RD from one of those groups will work just fine up to a 28 tooth rear cog.
I usually have a component group started for future ST builds, might be able to help you out some. And if you don't have other plans for that Apex triple...
Originally Posted by bradtx
Jason, Welcome to the forum. I too suggest riding the bike as is for awhile to determine what you want to change. My only real suggestion is to consider dual pivot brakes from Tektro or Shimano, everything else is mostly preference and availability. Shimano mountain bike FDs usually (almost always) won't work with a Shimano road group FD indexed shifter.
Have fun.
Brad
Have fun.
Brad
I'll try to get some pictures later this week or this weekend as the "before" shots...hopefully with some help, the "after" will look a heckuva lot better!
Thanks again for all your help...
Jason
Last edited by rotaryracer; 07-02-14 at 10:22 AM.
#11
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,852
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1907 Post(s)
Liked 572 Times
in
338 Posts
Whatever you do, keep the SR Apex crank with the bike. An early Cannondale tourer just doesn't look right without its original crank. I'd vote for an Cyclone Mk II derailleur as well.
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
www.rhmsaddles.com.
#12
aka: Dr. Cannondale
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,838
Mentioned: 234 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2143 Post(s)
Liked 3,370 Times
in
1,192 Posts
Save your money on the Kool Stops, the OEM pads on the 539's stop as well as anything else out there and last a long time to boot.
Would also be interested in hearing more about the disappointing tire clearance. On the 88 I'm currently re-doing in the shop for an upcoming Allegheny GAP trail ride (DC to Pittsburgh, 330 miles, end of September) there looks to be plenty of room for 35's or 38's with fenders, but it's already been converted to 700C. Maybe the poster was referring to space with 27's.
Anyway, no matter what you do or how you do it, it will turn out to be a great bike, trust me.
Would also be interested in hearing more about the disappointing tire clearance. On the 88 I'm currently re-doing in the shop for an upcoming Allegheny GAP trail ride (DC to Pittsburgh, 330 miles, end of September) there looks to be plenty of room for 35's or 38's with fenders, but it's already been converted to 700C. Maybe the poster was referring to space with 27's.
Anyway, no matter what you do or how you do it, it will turn out to be a great bike, trust me.
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
#13
Senior Member
Jason, I agree w/rccardr, it'll turn out just fine. If you want to run a mountain group's crank set, the Tiagra triple FD is popular with the touring crowd on STI equipped bikes. I'm using a RX100 and a 24-34-42 Sugino crank set on my STI shifted touring bike.
Brad
Brad
#14
Expired Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,431
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3629 Post(s)
Liked 5,295 Times
in
2,690 Posts
I'm using Vittoria rando tires on a 700 conversion. On the rear I have a nominal 35 that actually measures about 29mm. That's about as wide as will fit. The chainstays are the limiting factor. On the front I have a nominal 37 that measures 32mm. There is room in front for a little more. I was hoping to be able to run 32 or 35 knobbies but that won't work. The randos have been fine on the dirt roads and rail trails, however. There is no sense of it being a harsh riding bike. When using tires that size you have a good cushion!
#15
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks guys - we're in our busy season at work now so not sure how much progress I'll make until the snow flies, but this should be a fun winter project. I'm now leaning towards 10-speed Ultegra versus a mountain group...it looks like either a RD-6700A or a RD-6800 will handle 30-32T without issue, just not sure if the 11-speed 6800 will work with a 10-speed chain (it's cheaper to do the newer derailleur). A FD-6703 for a triple crank looks like a good match, and the Sugino Alpina 2 (versus the usual XD600) is 10-speed compatible and has a nice 24T granny. With a 12-30 Ultegra cassette on the back, that should give me more than enough gear for around here. I'll probably pass on brifters and go with Dura Ace barcons.
I'm probably only looking to go to 700x32 or 700x35 Contis (or similar), so sounds like that should still fit, potentially even with fenders?
I snapped some quick pics of how she sits today....I've done nothing except put more air in the tires and spun it around the block a few times.
Thanks!
I'm probably only looking to go to 700x32 or 700x35 Contis (or similar), so sounds like that should still fit, potentially even with fenders?
I snapped some quick pics of how she sits today....I've done nothing except put more air in the tires and spun it around the block a few times.
Thanks!
Last edited by rotaryracer; 07-12-14 at 10:56 AM.
#16
Bianchi Goddess
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 29,682
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
Mentioned: 190 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2896 Post(s)
Liked 2,784 Times
in
1,441 Posts
The old head badge! other than the new one being modern and cheaper I'll never understand why they dropped this.
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
kunsunoke
Classic and Vintage Sales
9
09-18-16 11:17 AM
bikemig
Classic & Vintage
31
09-07-15 10:35 PM
RobbieTunes
Classic & Vintage
73
12-02-14 05:37 PM