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Old 08-05-14, 05:01 AM   #26
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Nice thread, nice bike. Very entertaining. There's hardly nothing as cool as an electroforged mint green frame.
Not to be persnickety, but there's a big difference between the hand fillet brazed Super Sport/Sport Tourer/Superior made from chrome molybdenum tubing and the machine made electroforged Collegiate/Varsity/Continental. They really shouldn't be confused. Unfortunately the Super Sport shared the same heavy steel one-piece crankset that was run on the Varsity/Continental. This is usually what leads to the confusion.

@Darth Lefty, thanks for the email. I'll get back to you with a few questions about the Regina.
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Old 08-05-14, 07:44 AM   #27
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Having had the crankset out and worked on it, I think being heavy is probably its only serious disadvantage. It belongs on a utility bike rather than a race bike, but it doesn't belong in a dumpster. It's made of good hard steel, not butter. Per the patent linked by @Metacortex a few days ago, it has a shift ramp pressed into the big ring that makes the upshift really nice, easier than it is on my NR drivetrain, which skates. The oversize pie plate that covers the FD will be very effective at keeping pants clean and shoelaces out of the rings. Because the ring is not attached to the crank arm, only at the BB, the chain rings don't flex off to the side as much as an alloy crank when you mash on it. I'd call it a good design. But it is really heavy!
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Old 08-05-14, 05:46 PM   #28
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Thanks to whichever moderator changed the thread title for me!
@Metacortex they are out there... 1971 Schwinn Sports Tour

Sometimes unlabeled... Vintage 1972 Schwinn 10 Speed 61cm New Tires,Tubes,Cables,Wrap&Seat
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Old 08-05-14, 05:54 PM   #29
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Darth Lefty, I think I've got an original Super Sport front Derailleur somewhere in my parts box. If you still need one, let me know and I'll see if I can dig it up.
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Old 08-05-14, 06:58 PM   #30
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Unfortunately the Super Sport shared the same heavy steel one-piece crankset that was run on the Varsity/Continental. This is usually what leads to the confusion.
For those of us who sold them this was an advantage for the American consumer who generally was not up to the maintenance of the cottered cranks of Euro imports of the era. A nice straight CrMo frame, alloy wheels and B-15 saddle made for a reasonably high performance machine w/ low maintenance at a rational price. We had cotterless crank adaptors for lightweight upgrades and an endless supply of Schwinn Approved accessories for any possible use.

Good solid bikes for the era.

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Old 08-05-14, 07:08 PM   #31
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Not to be persnickety, but there's a big difference between the hand fillet brazed Super Sport/Sport Tourer/Superior made from chrome molybdenum tubing and the machine made electroforged Collegiate/Varsity/Continental. They really shouldn't be confused. Unfortunately the Super Sport shared the same heavy steel one-piece crankset that was run on the Varsity/Continental. This is usually what leads to the confusion.
I stand corrected. You know, I have nothing against electroforged Schwinns- I own one.
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Old 08-05-14, 10:36 PM   #32
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Darth Lefty, I think I've got an original Super Sport front Derailleur somewhere in my parts box. If you still need one, let me know and I'll see if I can dig it up.
Thanks! But nah, this is not a restoration, the Suntour is as good or better.
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Old 08-06-14, 06:06 AM   #33
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Probably better! I put a triple on mine and I'm using a Suntour.
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Old 08-06-14, 07:07 PM   #34
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Great thread! Thanks for sharing all the ways you're overcoming these adaptations. I love seeing all the different flavors these bikes can have. Party on, Darth!
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Old 08-06-14, 11:47 PM   #35
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Nice thread, nice bike. Very entertaining. There's hardly nothing as cool as an electroforged mint green frame.
These just look electroforged, they are fillet brazed. What is amazing to me is the welds have nary a file taken to them.
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Old 08-07-14, 02:22 AM   #36
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These just look electroforged, they are fillet brazed. What is amazing to me is the welds have nary a file taken to them.
I'm pretty sure that the head tube fillets got smoothed with something at the factory, but likely not so down at the bottom bracket shell, where I can see the texture of globbed-on brass.

Most knowledgeable people readily discern the material and craftsmanship/joinery differences between the fillet-brazed frames and the electroforged frames, but to me the (much) bigger difference is in the geometry, with the fillet brazed frames having about 3-degree-steeper angles, and that's a difference that makes a huge difference in the way the frame fits and the way the frame rides.

I actually prefer the handling of the lax-angled electroforged frames, but prefer the longer forward reach of the fillet brazed frames that allows me to get comfortably forward without having to use a huge frame (or a super-long stem that will mess up the steering behavior) in order to not have my knees hitting the handlebar during intense climbs and sprints.
The electroforged frames also have crazy-high bottom brackets that limit how big of a frame size one can ride safely.

And as for the weight, I consider all of these frames to be extremely heavy, so much so that I can hardly tell them apart when they're all wearing kickstands and their excellent one-piece cranks!
But the geometry is a night-and-day difference, with the electroforged bikes having virtually no rivals for calm steering (i.e., stability) in the "road bike" world.
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Old 08-08-14, 04:55 PM   #37
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Report back after a few rides.

I'm in love with the rando handlebar. I might get more of them and put them on other things. I'm enjoying the giant pedals too. That right there is a reason to keep the boat-anchor crank. I like the big shifters, and I like them where they are on the stem. However they seem to have pretty short pull for the replacement derailleurs. They have to be moved through their entire range. If for example I wanted an 8-speed cassette then I might have problems.

I also really like the Romin saddle.

The front wheel I'm using has a busted hub and its dish is off. Pity, it's probably the only one I own with butted spokes. However I'm going to move the wheels from my Paramount over long-term and not worry about replacements for a while. I want to ride it more than I want to mess with solvents and bearing grease. As part of that I'm going to put the giant freewheel on the rear Paramount wheel. I'm wondering how it's going to shift. I've got a SRAM 7/8 speed chain and it's doing fine on the Regina but it has no pins and the freewheel has no ramps, so I'm worried it will skate.

Turkey levers are indeed quite useless. The tiny knurls on the barrel adjuster are difficult but they need to be undone to make enough slack in the cable to get the yoke off, in order to get an inflated tire out of the brake. That's annoying. The brake pivots need to be greased.
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Old 08-10-14, 06:45 PM   #38
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Today I learned that a Schwinn Model J freewheel won't go on a Campagnolo Record hub - at least not at 120 spacing. It might offend the racing bike purists in the audience, but I tried it. The J is a lot wider than the Regina Extra Oro. While the Regina is about exactly the width of its cogs, the Schwinn has a spacer or something on the low gear back side, and a protector on the top side. There are already no spacers on the non-drive side of the hub, so there's no respacing to be done. So I guess if I want low gears, my wheel search continues.

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Old 08-19-14, 11:21 PM   #39
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Tonight's project: handlebar tape! The Nashbar green deluxe tape is a pretty good match for the Schwinn lime green. I also got some 3M green electrical tape for the ends but it was more of a forest color, so I went with black. There's still enough black in the cables and saddle that it works.

Untitled by Darth Lefty, on Flickr
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Old 08-20-14, 01:52 AM   #40
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Just for the record Schwinn called that color Opaque Green and it was offered only in '72 on the Super Sport (and other bikes). Schwinn Lime Green was a completely different metallic color that was never offered on the Super Sport.

Schwinn did actually sell Opaque Green tape (and lever covers), however from the factory they supplied black tape with Opaque Green bikes, as seen here: Schwinn 1972 Cycling '72 -- Sports Tourer
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Old 08-20-14, 05:36 AM   #41
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Today I learned that a Schwinn Model J freewheel won't go on a Campagnolo Record hub - at least not at 120 spacing. It might offend the racing bike purists in the audience, but I tried it. The J is a lot wider than the Regina Extra Oro. While the Regina is about exactly the width of its cogs, the Schwinn has a spacer or something on the low gear back side, and a protector on the top side. There are already no spacers on the non-drive side of the hub, so there's no respacing to be done. So I guess if I want low gears, my wheel search continues.

Sorry I missed this post last week. VBS kept me a bit distracted at times!

I don't remember a spacer on the rear of this freewheel, but IIRC, the flange on the outer body is rather thick. The work around would be to remove the pie plate spoke protector even though it is very iconic.

I'm also wondering did you fully screw on the freewheel so that it was completely seated? The reason I ask is I recently removed a Suntour from my vintage 120mm Campagnolo Record HF hub, and the threading was very tight and I had to use the tool and a wrench to almost the half way spot on threads. A few days later I mounted this ProComp beast (6 speed Ultra spaced), and was surprised I had to use the tool and wrench to make it fully seat. BTW, the threads looked great on the hub and both bodies.

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Old 08-20-14, 07:40 AM   #42
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I'm also wondering did you fully screw on the freewheel so that it was completely seated?
Yes. The body of the J freewheel is a lot wider.
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Old 08-20-14, 11:16 AM   #43
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I don't recall ever seeing a Schwinn this color, it's close to what Chevrolet called Seafoam Green back in the 50's and 60's. One of my favorite colors on vintage vehicles, my '55 Studebaker was that color too but IIRC they called it Chippewa Green. I have an '83 Super Sport frame I plan to build up and it needs a repaint. I planned to use the 70's style decals like yours as I like them a lot better and have been agonizing over a good color to give it a "classic" look. I think I just found it! Thanks for posting the pics.
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Old 08-20-14, 11:37 AM   #44
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I don't recall ever seeing a Schwinn this color...
It's Opaque Green, plus 42 years and perhaps with some fading from being left outdoors behind a shed. It seems only to exist on 1972 Super Sports and World Travelers. How they got a one-year color on only two models from different continents, who knows?
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Old 08-20-14, 01:57 PM   #45
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It's Opaque Green, plus 42 years and perhaps with some fading from being left outdoors behind a shed. It seems only to exist on 1972 Super Sports and World Travelers. How they got a one-year color on only two models from different continents, who knows?
Thanks for the info, it looks close enough to Seafoam Green that I can probably use the Seafoam to get the desired results. I wouldn't mind having an all original '72 that color to go with my '83 but finding one in my size would probably be like finding feather's on a frog. Beside there are too many other's on the wish list as it is.
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Old 08-20-14, 02:32 PM   #46
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It's Opaque Green, plus 42 years and perhaps with some fading from being left outdoors behind a shed. It seems only to exist on 1972 Super Sports and World Travelers. How they got a one-year color on only two models from different continents, who knows?
Opaque Green was also available on the Paramount and Sports Tourer in '72. There is currently a '72 OG Paramount listed on eBay and a '72 OG Sports Tourer recently sold for $635!
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Old 08-20-14, 02:39 PM   #47
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Opaque Green was also available on the Paramount and Sports Tourer in '72. There is currently a '72 OG Paramount listed on eBay and a '72 OG Sports Tourer recently sold for $635!
I wonder if Waterford has the secret formula. I need touch-ups.
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Old 08-20-14, 03:15 PM   #48
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I wonder if Waterford has the secret formula. I need touch-ups.
Most automotive paint stores can scan the actual paint on your bike and mix up touch up paint for you that will match the existing paint. They can put it in a small brush bottle, aerosol can or a can for spraying with an airbrush or paint g-u-n.
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Old 08-20-14, 04:17 PM   #49
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Most automotive paint stores can scan the actual paint on your bike and mix up touch up paint for you that will match the existing paint. They can put it in a small brush bottle, aerosol can or a can for spraying with an airbrush or paint g-u-n.
Maybe I'll try that. Johanna at Waterford wrote back and said they could match it if they had the frame but they don't have touch up paint for old Schwinns on the shelf.
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Old 08-20-14, 05:11 PM   #50
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Darth Lefty's Super Sport

I guess you'll need to chip off a piece of that paint and send to Waterford.
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