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Old 07-30-14, 11:23 AM   #1
crotch_rocket
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Converting an old 1979 Nishiki sport to cyclocross

Hey folks,

So I've got a 1979 Nishiki Sport ten speed, and I've got a bunch of brake bosses laying around (the welding/soldering type). Anyone ever converted an old 10 speed to cyclocross, and if so, what did it entail, and do you have any pictures? right now, I've stripped the frame of everything to do a new paint job, and also modify the frame if need be. It currently uses the old centerpull DiaCompe brakes, and the wheelset is 27 inch. I'll be purchasing and using 700 cc wheels, so I'm hoping that will give me more room for knobbies in the brakes?
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Old 07-30-14, 12:29 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by crotch_rocket View Post
Hey folks,

So I've got a 1979 Nishiki Sport ten speed, and I've got a bunch of brake bosses laying around (the welding/soldering type). Anyone ever converted an old 10 speed to cyclocross, and if so, what did it entail, and do you have any pictures? right now, I've stripped the frame of everything to do a new paint job, and also modify the frame if need be. It currently uses the old centerpull DiaCompe brakes, and the wheelset is 27 inch. I'll be purchasing and using 700 cc wheels, so I'm hoping that will give me more room for knobbies in the brakes?
I can't tell you anything about brazing, but on several recent bikes I've tried putting fatter tires on, the limiting point was between the chain stays. With those brakes designed to pass fenders, the clearance at the fork and brake bridge shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 07-30-14, 12:41 PM   #3
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Step 1, learn how to braze in General .. community college classes will help.

I purchased the brakes and wheels first, the initial adjustment is the location of the bosses on the frame..
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Old 07-31-14, 02:36 AM   #4
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Place the bosses 283mm up from the axle center. 80mm between the bosses is best. Good quality flux makes life good when brazing Stainless Light from Cycle Design Group is worth the $17 cost.
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Old 07-31-14, 05:02 AM   #5
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This is how guys built cyclo cross bikes before they became main stream. If you couldn't afford a fancy purpose built European bike you simply used an road bike, and if you were lucky you could afford to have someone weld canti bosses on it.

As an actual racing 'cross bike the end result will be heavish and the lower Bb may cause problems. This will likely make a great gravel grinder for running fast on dirt roads.
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Old 07-31-14, 01:54 PM   #6
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A low bottom bracket should be ok if the OP isn't using toe clips.

I would take a close look at the current brake setup, to check out the clearance, and whether adding canti brakes will actually increase tire clearance in any meaningful way.

Wondering if the OP intends to race in muddy events or not, not sure where he lives.

I've raced cyclocross all these years using Weinmann centerpull calipers, with no clearance problems to date.
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Old 07-31-14, 06:00 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by dddd View Post
A low bottom bracket should be ok if the OP isn't using toe clips.

I would take a close look at the current brake setup, to check out the clearance, and whether adding canti brakes will actually increase tire clearance in any meaningful way.

Wondering if the OP intends to race in muddy events or not, not sure where he lives.

I've raced cyclocross all these years using Weinmann centerpull calipers, with no clearance problems to date.
Well, I've kept the old Dia-Compe brakes, as they're still in good condition. I'm planning on changing the wheelset from 27" to 700cc, and I've got an old 105 crankset, derailleurs, and shifters. My main concern was regarding the wheel clearances for knobby tires. Previously it had large diameter road treads, and a set of fenders. And yes, I do plan on training and doing the occaisional race in these, as I've got the racing bug again. I'm wondering if the Dia-Compe brakes ought to be sufficient for the task.
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