Scott/Matthauser Finned Brake Shoes On Calipers
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In continuation of the coolest looking pads===
I recently acquired another brakeset that included the canti-post type. Problem is three of them are missing the pads. Would like to use them but of course, these early type have the bonded rubber to aluminum backing. Once worn out, its a toss away. No replacement or adhesive is offered. Has anyone tried another non-S/M pad and used an adhesive to the finned backing plate? I also thought of an alloy backed / rubber pad replacement and remove the post, and then try some metal adhesive bonding the two (JB or Loctite gooey??). Anyone work for NASA who has access to some super glue? Some old bike goon has been sniffing for brake pad glue time.
I recently acquired another brakeset that included the canti-post type. Problem is three of them are missing the pads. Would like to use them but of course, these early type have the bonded rubber to aluminum backing. Once worn out, its a toss away. No replacement or adhesive is offered. Has anyone tried another non-S/M pad and used an adhesive to the finned backing plate? I also thought of an alloy backed / rubber pad replacement and remove the post, and then try some metal adhesive bonding the two (JB or Loctite gooey??). Anyone work for NASA who has access to some super glue? Some old bike goon has been sniffing for brake pad glue time.
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My first thought is something like JB Weld, but I don't know about trusting it. If you're a little wrong- that could be a lot of bad.
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Pics of the pads I'd like to salvage. Have yet to compare them to the set I have on a tandem, but believe are different in having a slight curvature. The post is approximately 3/8" hollow from the end. Open to ideas.
Last edited by crank_addict; 11-05-14 at 12:17 PM.
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I sold a used set of these suckers for $144. I liked them, but couldn't pass that up.
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I'd check with JB Weld. It looks like there's stuff that should bond the rubber to the aluminum.
Rubber Archives - JB Weld
Contact them.
Rubber Archives - JB Weld
Contact them.
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Thanks for the link to JB. I'm sure something will affix them solid. Primary concerns for brake application is shear and heat under extreme conditions.
For pads: Having trouble finding the page link and technical specs of this early formula. The compound is one of the best I've experienced and wear like none other. If I can't find the rubber compound, the alternative is somehow attaching a metal back holder for other brand slide in pad cartridge. Has anyone attempted a conversion? Epoxy or machined plate? I do have some slim aluminum channel stock and was thinking of a peg in the center + JB metal epoxy. The channel stock would be cut to pad length and tab locked at one end.
This grouping happened to be included with a brake set I just acquired. Although kind of a shame in that it looks like someone intentionally removed the rubber compound. All things considered were freebies and worthwhile experimenting with. Ultimately would like to use for a vintage gravel bike build.
For pads: Having trouble finding the page link and technical specs of this early formula. The compound is one of the best I've experienced and wear like none other. If I can't find the rubber compound, the alternative is somehow attaching a metal back holder for other brand slide in pad cartridge. Has anyone attempted a conversion? Epoxy or machined plate? I do have some slim aluminum channel stock and was thinking of a peg in the center + JB metal epoxy. The channel stock would be cut to pad length and tab locked at one end.
This grouping happened to be included with a brake set I just acquired. Although kind of a shame in that it looks like someone intentionally removed the rubber compound. All things considered were freebies and worthwhile experimenting with. Ultimately would like to use for a vintage gravel bike build.
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I can't beleive they're not being snatched up.
You should score those for any bike with sidepulls or centerpulls.
You should score those for any bike with sidepulls or centerpulls.
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#60
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I would expect there to be a trade off between wear and effectiveness. Somehow, these pads optimize both.
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Before the days of the interweb, writers 'vented' about their own bike brakes in published books.
E.A. Sloane's The Complete Book of Cycling is a hoot! A must retrohead read.
My guess the custom Alex Singer would have been his grail rider. Seemingly well spec'ed too with the Mafac Criterium and Scott Matthauser vented pads. But boy did he trash talk it. (Note: pics and its content courtesy of the above mentioned book ~c. 1980)
E.A. Sloane's The Complete Book of Cycling is a hoot! A must retrohead read.
My guess the custom Alex Singer would have been his grail rider. Seemingly well spec'ed too with the Mafac Criterium and Scott Matthauser vented pads. But boy did he trash talk it. (Note: pics and its content courtesy of the above mentioned book ~c. 1980)
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One should contact an adhesives manufacturer, so start with a google search on bonding urethane to aluminum.
There are critical process details pertaining especially to the metal prep, so again one should follow an adhesive maker's instructions precisely.
The heat "buildup" is really only an issue as the pads wear very thin, when heat can only then pass through the thickness of urethane rubber at a rate that cannot be effectively dissipated by the aluminum.
Think of the finned holder as protecting the adhesive bond from excessive heat, not as being able to conduct a significant fraction of the braking heat away from the pad's working (friction) surface.
Pads worn thin will also suffer more highly-concentrated shear-loading at the bond line.
There are epoxy-urethane hybrids and there are also plain urethane adhesives. Possibly one of these would be most effective in this application, once a suitable friction material has been sourced.
There are critical process details pertaining especially to the metal prep, so again one should follow an adhesive maker's instructions precisely.
The heat "buildup" is really only an issue as the pads wear very thin, when heat can only then pass through the thickness of urethane rubber at a rate that cannot be effectively dissipated by the aluminum.
Think of the finned holder as protecting the adhesive bond from excessive heat, not as being able to conduct a significant fraction of the braking heat away from the pad's working (friction) surface.
Pads worn thin will also suffer more highly-concentrated shear-loading at the bond line.
There are epoxy-urethane hybrids and there are also plain urethane adhesives. Possibly one of these would be most effective in this application, once a suitable friction material has been sourced.
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There was a recent thread in this forum discussing why these brake pads/holders might be death thingies becuase of concerns about pad/holder bond failures, as the holder is not designed to be "captive" and depends only on the glue used to bond it to the pad.....
It did raise some good discussions and concerns in the forum. I guess wouldn't mind trying them out, especially as it would look really cool on my early 70's race bike, but dang!, they are too expensive if you find a good set (preferably NOS so the bond on the pad would be in best condition) just to get a finned brake pad holder look on your calipers, as I would think modern brake pads/holders with modern pad compounds will easily beat the Matthausers on performance.
It did raise some good discussions and concerns in the forum. I guess wouldn't mind trying them out, especially as it would look really cool on my early 70's race bike, but dang!, they are too expensive if you find a good set (preferably NOS so the bond on the pad would be in best condition) just to get a finned brake pad holder look on your calipers, as I would think modern brake pads/holders with modern pad compounds will easily beat the Matthausers on performance.
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We now know that the bit about heat dissipation is bunk. Heat doesn't go out from the brake shoe into the holder, it goes into the rim.
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Your statement seems correct in terms of the pad being too thick (and thus insulating) to dissipate any significant fraction of the braking heat.
Last edited by dddd; 03-27-15 at 01:32 PM.
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Interesting!
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My very old Matthauser pads seem to perform as well as any new ones, and I still race with old Matthauser pads on the front and rear brakes of my cyclocross bike.
Compare this to trying to use old Weinmann or Universal brake pads to stop your bike...
Well, ok, some of the old Weinmann pads seemingly age more gracefully than others, but...
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