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  1. #26
    Warning:Annoying to jerks RaleighSport's Avatar
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    My current project weighs in at 20.5 lbs at the moment, lighter brakeset and lighter brifters are both already ordered, the pedals need to be changed from the clunky junky ones on it as well.. so I'm hoping it'll break that barrier but it remains to be seen. Reynolds 753 frameset with a CF fork though, dunno if that's cheating?
    “Let me never fall into the vulgar mistake of dreaming that I am persecuted whenever I am contradicted.”


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  2. #27
    Senior Member tommyblair22's Avatar
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    There is no cheating in my book. I'm just hoping to get some ideas of modern or vintage ways to drop 1.5lbs from my bike. Keep em coming!
    Sustainable development is like teenage sex- everyone claims they're doing it, but most people aren't and those that are are doing it very badly

  3. #28
    I'm doing it wrong. RJM's Avatar
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    I just recently weighed my bike.

    Not vintage steel, but my Rivendell Roadeo sits at 20.8 lbs right now and that is with a nitto lugged quill stem and a brooks b17 select; it's also measured ready to ride with two water bottle holders, pedals, saddle ect. I'm sure if I swapped the stem and saddle out for lighter components and put some weight weenie parts on the bike it would go below. I have Rolf Vigor RS wheels on it, Compass 32mm Stampede Pass tires, Shimano 6800 Ultegra components, Nitto handlebar, Nitto seatpost, Tektro brakes and Look Keo Classic pedals.
    "Even people opposed to religion need calm minds and compassion to make their work more effective."

  4. #29
    Senior Member jeirvine's Avatar
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    I got mine down to just 12.2 lbs, but I'm not sure how safe it is for street riding:


    The man who dies with the most toys…is dead. - Rootboy

  5. #30
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    Love this thread as I have been thinking about this lately.
    My stock 1972 Peugeot PX-10 weighs in at 22 lbs.
    Just for fun someday I would like to see how light I could make her.

  6. #31
    Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race dddd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xuwol7 View Post
    Love this thread as I have been thinking about this lately.
    My stock 1972 Peugeot PX-10 weighs in at 22 lbs.
    Just for fun someday I would like to see how light I could make her.
    That's 22lb on tubulars, so you could drop 2-3lbs if you go nuts with all the parts becoming super-lightweight.

    And I guarantee one thing, in addition to the thousand(s) of dollars you'd spend, that it will become a heck of a lot uglier in the process.

  7. #32
    Senior Member Chombi's Avatar
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    My 1984 PSV is at 19.25 pounds without any really drastic weenie components on it.

    Only real weenie stuff I installed on the bike would be the Mavic 851 SSC drivetrain. only other weenie thing on it would be the Stronglight A9 headset that's original on the bike. The BB is all steel, same with the FW. Wheel axles are steel. The wheelset is a light-ish 330 GL. rimmed tubular set, with not so light Vittoria Rally tubs and Campy Record hubs. They are light, but not really weenie light.
    So If I do get serious about shedding some more weight off the bike, I think the 18 pound region would be easily attainable with just a Ti BB, Ti railed saddle and maybe my CLB Compact Pro brakeset. I think I owe it all to the very lightweight Supervitus 980 frame.

  8. #33
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    This CAAD7 rode great on its maiden ride (after my refurbishment). I think it was just under 20 lbs.

    You don't read my signature anyway, do you?

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  9. #34
    Senior Member Chrome Molly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommyblair22 View Post
    There is no cheating in my book. I'm just hoping to get some ideas of modern or vintage ways to drop 1.5lbs from my bike. Keep em coming!
    Then a thread less carbon fork (1 inch full carbon forks are available from wiggle) with thread less stem would probably drop at least 1.5 lbs. It might look awful depending on the rest of the build though.

  10. #35
    What??? Only 2 wheels? jimmuller's Avatar
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    C'mon, it's easy. Just use slightly bigger pounds. That way you need fewer of them.

    Do I have to explain everything?

    FWIW, I don't trust all the weight figures I see posted, even in C&V.
    Real cyclists use toe clips.
    jimmuller

  11. #36
    johnliu@earthlink.net jyl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chombi View Post
    My 1984 PSV is at 19.25 pounds without any really drastic weenie components on it.

    Only real weenie stuff I installed on the bike would be the Mavic 851 SSC drivetrain. only other weenie thing on it would be the Stronglight A9 headset that's original on the bike. The BB is all steel, same with the FW. Wheel axles are steel. The wheelset is a light-ish 330 GL. rimmed tubular set, with not so light Vittoria Rally tubs and Campy Record hubs. They are light, but not really weenie light.
    So If I do get serious about shedding some more weight off the bike, I think the 18 pound region would be easily attainable with just a Ti BB, Ti railed saddle and maybe my CLB Compact Pro brakeset. I think I owe it all to the very lightweight Supervitus 980 frame.
    A White Bros ti bb is 162 g, a Campagnolo Super Record ti bb is 204 g. I'm guessing those would take 130-170 g off the PSV, or 4-6 oz. Maybe all you need?
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  12. #37
    Senior Member Giacomo 1's Avatar
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    This quote from George Mount, an American pro racer, says it all -

    "I never lost a race because my bike was too heavy"...



    But it does make for interesting conversation, I admit. However, I think good tires with lower rolling resistance are far more important than weight to a solid, fast ride...
    Colnago Super
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  13. #38
    Senior Member RobbieTunes's Avatar
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    My lightest, but not by design, classic steel was a Simoncini SLX with Veloce and Vento wheels for 20.4 lbs, and I'm sure I could have gotten it under 20 with a carbon seatpost, Ti chain, and Ti/Scandium cassette. (Sold it). My De Rosa Professional SLX with 9-sp DA (DT shifters) and Mavic Ksyrium Elites is 20.4 lbs, but could go with a short-cage RD and smaller range cassette, plus a much lighter saddle than the SSM Regal clone it has, and easily be under 20. It wasn't relevant to me to go there, but it is entirely possible.

    My modern steel bike is well under 16.5 lbs, and my two modern carbons are well under that. I generally use lighter parts on them, if possible, but all three could easily go lower. There are tons of lighter parts out there, but I didn't build them to be light; they just are.

    Cervelo's own tests showed a huge improvement with 5 lbs of lower bike weight: 36 seconds over a 71-minute course, a whopping .8%, or basically, an extra drink from your water bottle.

    FWIW: I built, on purpose, a 15.1 lb 2000 Kestrel 200SCi when the UCI limit was just that. I rode it 35 miles and felt like running it over with my car. It had more carbon than a coal furnace, and rode like a piece of plywood. I sold it to someone who wanted one like that. Never again, though I kind of wish I'd kept the wheels....

    Light bikes sell, and are being developed, because no one wants to have the rider next to them to have an advantage, real or percieved. The TdF pros will tell you the weight savings long ago reached the point of diminishing returns; it's about pushing through the wind, being comfortable, and being fit enough to enact the proper tactics at the proper time. For climbing, it's Power/Kg. Advancements in performance are in handling, efficiency, and the next big step is disc braking, then eventually, ABS, so all a rider has to do is squeeze the brakes and they're modulated automatically. We will see descents that approach tire adhesion limits.

    Writers in bike magazines cheer for stiffness, decry "excess" flexibility in frames, and are parroted by the fools in the 41 who think they can actually be faster on the lightest, stiffest frames. Maybe they are, but I'm not sure who they are racing, or if they're actually winning podiums anywhere but in their minds. If they are racing Walter Mitty, they have to understand he always wins. In my perfect world, you draft those fools all day on your steel bike, and then outsprint them at the end, not because you have a stiffer bike, but because you have the legs and the mind to do it. Oh, wait, it happens a lot in the real world, as well. Imagine that.

    I have significant upper body strength for a rider my size, just a product of my genetics and history on the farm and the mat. Yes, I feel the slight flex in Cinelli stems and bars, perhaps the bottom bracket, of steel frames, from an Ironman to a Corsa Extra. That is exactly what I want in those frames, the smoothness and predictability built in by a designer who rides and a builder who cares, and a type of frame construction that they've successfully predicted would sell for 30-40 years, over and over again.

    Sure, there are lighter C&V bikes, like the carbon Ironman, but it was so flexible as to be alarming; not always knowing if the rear was still attached to the front! Sure, there are lighter and stiffer C&V bikes, like the Centurion Facet, but the buzz through the bars was very noticeable, to the point of distraction. In both cases, I prefer the steel offerings; they are abundant, and affordable, and the craftsmanship is very good. The weight is not an issue, but if a person can get one of those fine frames outfitted to be less than 20 lbs, more power to him/her, for whatever reason. It's obviously a good conversation topic.

    A typical group ride in my area finds us at the parking lot, one leg over the bikes, chatting up until the last guy gets there, or someone has the intiative to start rolling. "What does that weigh?" is often the first question, so you get that over with and then roll. The topic is generally forgotten within the first mile or two. If it comes up in others' minds on the first hill, I'm never sure, but I doubt it. The climbers climb, we wait, and the caravan continues.
    Last edited by RobbieTunes; 08-09-14 at 06:02 AM.

    Robbie ♪♫♪...☻

    Perhaps you didn't really hear what you thought I said...
    ...or maybe you did, and that's why you're so mad.


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  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by fender1 View Post
    Why not jut lose 1.5lbs of body fat? Cheaper and easier. Bike weight by itself means very little.
    What a new and unique thought in a bike weight discussion. er, wait, I might be wrong

    (from the original post):

    Quote Originally Posted by tommyblair22 View Post
    ... Btw I know it's better to lose the weight off of your midsection first do we can skip that part of the conversation
    For what it's worth, this Sannino of mine weighs about 21 -22 pounds as-is: I could get it down to about 19 or 19.5 if I replaced the seat post, handlebars, saddle and bottle cages with much lighter (equally functional) versions I have on hand. But I prefer the current parts aesthetically.

    The bike has fairly heavy seatpost, stem, handlebars, saddle and bottle cages, but all the other parts are pretty light weight - 9 and 10 speed Dura Ace drive train, ~1500 gm wheels, lightweight tires and tubes.

    The 54 cm SL frame and fork weighs about 5 3/4 pounds which is around 2 1/2 pounds heavier than my decent, but not super light weight Felt Z F&F (Felt = 1,100 gm + 375 gm.... Sannino = 1,950 gm + 650 gm). So since it's not tough getting a modern CF bike down to 16 or 17 pounds, it really isn't a big deal getting a decent lightweight vintage steel frame down to sub 20 lbs with similar quality components, especially the wheels.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Camilo; 08-08-14 at 06:23 PM.

  15. #40
    Senior Member Chombi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jyl View Post
    A White Bros ti bb is 162 g, a Campagnolo Super Record ti bb is 204 g. I'm guessing those would take 130-170 g off the PSV, or 4-6 oz. Maybe all you need?
    Problem is, I've never encountered a TI BB I can afford or use.......yet....
    Same with Al FW's...... Maybe I'll just "steal" the Regina Ameica Superleggera FW I have on my project Medici for now? It's not 100% Al, but it might get me real close to 19.0 pounds!....But dang!, it ain't French!

  16. #41
    Senior Member fender1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camilo View Post
    What a new and unique thought in a bike weight discussion. er, wait, I might be wrong

    (from the original post):



    For what it's worth, this Sannino of mine weighs about 21 -22 pounds as-is: I could get it down to about 19 or 19.5 if I replaced the seat post, handlebars, saddle and bottle cages with much lighter (equally functional) versions I have on hand. But I prefer the current parts aesthetically.

    The bike has fairly heavy seatpost, stem, handlebars, saddle and bottle cages, but all the other parts are pretty light weight - 9 and 10 speed Dura Ace drive train, ~1500 gm wheels, lightweight tires and tubes.

    The 54 cm SL frame and fork weighs about 5 3/4 pounds which is around 2 1/2 pounds heavier than my decent, but not super light weight Felt Z F&F (Felt = 1,100 gm + 375 gm.... Sannino = 1,950 gm + 650 gm). So since it's not tough getting a modern CF bike down to 16 or 17 pounds, it really isn't a big deal getting a decent lightweight vintage steel frame down to sub 20 lbs with similar quality components, especially the wheels.

    Thanks!

  17. #42
    Senior Member Uncle Randy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyjawa View Post
    I have owned, built and weighed a lot of vintage bicycles. Few, and I mean very few, have come in under 20 pounds. And those that did were aluminum alloy, particulary a Vitus, an Alan and, possibly an old Legnano with tubular tires(did not have a good scale to weight the Legnano). Anyway, have a look at some of the weights I took and then published.



    That said, I do wish you good luck with your quest to get a steel frame bicycle under the twenty pound mark.
    Randy, what is this beauty in the photo and how much does it weight.
    I'm not in a hurry. 24 speeds are enough for me.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by dddd View Post
    That's 22lb on tubulars, so you could drop 2-3lbs if you go nuts with all the parts becoming super-lightweight.

    And I guarantee one thing, in addition to the thousand(s) of dollars you'd spend, that it will become a heck of a lot uglier in the process.
    You are absolutely right, I can't see putting a lot of money into a bike that is perfect for me as is.
    I like the original configuration and I am not going to spend thousand(s) of dollars just to drop a few pounds.
    Never thought about the fact that it probably would ugly it up some in the process.
    It is plenty fast and responsive as is and a joy to ride.
    Thanks for the eye opener......

  19. #44
    Senior Moment Member JTTDF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeirvine View Post
    I got mine down to just 12.2 lbs, but I'm not sure how safe it is for street riding:


    Hee Hee!
    I want to ride it where I like

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  20. #45
    Senior Member randyjawa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Randy View Post
    Randy, what is this beauty in the photo and how much does it weight.
    The Alan came in at 19lb 10oz, the way it is pictured.
    Learn how to find, restore and maintain vintage road bicycles at... MY "TEN SPEEDS"

  21. #46
    What??? Only 2 wheels? jimmuller's Avatar
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    So you can make a steel bike be under 20lbs by making it out of aluminum? Just asking.
    Real cyclists use toe clips.
    jimmuller

  22. #47
    . bbattle's Avatar
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    Hey guys, here's my new Trek Domane for a modern comparison. All carbon frame, fork, seatpost, Ultegra 6800 11-speed. Bontrager Race wheels, R3 tires.

    Here it is on the Madison County Lake "official" fish scale. 18.75 pounds

  23. #48
    Senior Member bwilli88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bholio View Post
    Go metric and shoot for 10kg instead. .
    this is right at 10kg, not C&V but what I can get over here in Cambodia
    Biking in Cambodia
    <><

  24. #49
    Reeks of aged cotton duck Hydrated's Avatar
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    Now you guys have me wondering...

    I built up my 1976 Raleigh Pro with a new Ultegra 11 speed group. I built the wheels with Mavic Open Pro rims and run Challenge Paris-Roubaix tires. Campy seatpost. Brooks saddle. Nitto Pearl quill stem.

    I took it to my LBS and threw it on their "fish scale" and it weighed in at around 19.5 pounds. But it never occurred to me that those scales can be so far off.

    Have I been lying about how light my vintage 531 framed bike is? Guess I'd have to find an accurate scale to find out, but I really don't care quite enough to go to that much effort.
    It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it.-Aristotle

  25. #50
    johnliu@earthlink.net jyl's Avatar
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    A gallon of water weighs 8.34 lb at 70 F. A plastic milk jug weighs roughly 2 oz. So you can calibrate your hanging scale pretty well with one or two empty plastic milk jugs and a measuring cup.
    Your signature contains too many lines and must be shortened. You may only have up to 2 line(s). Long text may have been implicitly wrapped, causing it to be

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