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Removing TA cranks with Stronglight puller

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Removing TA cranks with Stronglight puller

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Old 08-26-14, 08:48 PM
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I got a CCP-2 used on theBay last month for less than a new one. I got it for the TA thread. I had a CCP-22. I think they changed the CCP-2 to a single thread at some point and now it is discontinued and they have a CCP-22 with a single thread. The handles are interchangeable. If it has the head with 2 sets of threads the large side is TA.

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Old 08-27-14, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer
...I actually do not recall, but as stated, the #1 and the #2 are threaded differently.

It proved impossible to come up with a bolt for the #2 , but the specialty fastener guy here took the old handle and driver from my #1 into the back and came out with several of them pretty quickly. Why park went to an impossible to replace threading on the #2 is grounds for speculation. #conspiracy
So you couldn't easily use the simple bolt idea! I'd be interested in knowing what your two handle threadings measure. I measured my old tool, and came up with the 9/16 X 24, which is nearly impossible to find. But it looks like, viewing JDT's pics, that they changed the spec through the years, for some reason. No idea how old my tool is.

I guess the threads per inch on the bolt will affect how the tool works and how "quickly" it extracts the crank, of course. I wonder if there is any mechanical, or safety advantage, to the finer threaded bolt.
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Old 08-27-14, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by rootboy
So you couldn't easily use the simple bolt idea! I'd be interested in knowing what your two handle threadings measure. I measured my old tool, and came up with the 9/16 X 24, which is nearly impossible to find. But it looks like, viewing JDT's pics, that they changed the spec through the years, for some reason. No idea how old my tool is.

I guess the threads per inch on the bolt will affect how the tool works and how "quickly" it extracts the crank, of course. I wonder if there is any mechanical, or safety advantage, to the finer threaded bolt.
Well, sure. The finer the thread, the less force is required to turn it. Some people stop trying when they reach a certain level of difficulty. Crank extraction is especially tricky, because it gets progressively harder, and then it suddenly gives. I've taught it a lot. It's not intuitive.
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Old 08-27-14, 09:58 AM
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i recently received a Stronglight puller from an eBay seller who sold it to me as a TA puller. I tried it on 3 different TA cranks, all with no luck. It's too big - it could probably be forced in, but would either re-cut the threads (if you're lucky) or destroy them. I wasn't going to take the chance.
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Old 08-27-14, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Catnap
i recently received a Stronglight puller from an eBay seller who sold it to me as a TA puller. I tried it on 3 different TA cranks, all with no luck. It's too big - it could probably be forced in, but would either re-cut the threads (if you're lucky) or destroy them. I wasn't going to take the chance.
You could probably sell the Stronglight one for enough to buy a couple TA pullers, or Park CCCP-1s.

In my experience, the official TA pullers have the TA logo stamped on the head of the 15mm bolt, while the Stronglight ones have a blank 16mm bolt. The Stronglight also has a shoulder on the piece that threads into the arm:

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Old 08-27-14, 02:31 PM
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Those are exactly the same ones that I have.
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Old 08-27-14, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
You could probably sell the Stronglight one for enough to buy a couple TA pullers, or Park CCCP-1s.
the Stronglight one is worth a bunch? i assumed either was typically valued at around $50. btw mine looks exactly like the Stronglight puller in your picture.
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Old 08-27-14, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Catnap
the Stronglight one is worth a bunch? i assumed either was typically valued at around $50. btw mine looks exactly like the Stronglight puller in your picture.
Stein sells their Stronglight extractor for US$65, IIRC, so the Real Thing would probably be pretty close to that. I've found TA-compatible Park CCP-1s at swap meets for less than $10.
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Old 08-27-14, 03:21 PM
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I bought my Stronglight tool from Jim Stein not too long ago and it was fifty bucks, as I remember. Shipped.

It just made a round trip to Atlanta to help out another tool-less member.

Harris has them, but they might charge you ten bucks to ship it to you.
https://harriscyclery.net/product/j.-...glight-670.htm

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Old 08-27-14, 09:57 PM
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OK, I won't take a chance. I'll keep the cranks on for now. Btw, it's a funny thing: this is on my Viscount, which came with Viscount cranks, of course. The crank fixing bolts are Whitworth! Thank goodness the extractor threads are either 22mm or close enough that my Campagnolo extractor.
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Old 08-27-14, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by rootboy
Harris has them, but they might charge you ten bucks to ship it to you.
J. A. Stein Crank puller-Old Stronglight - Harris Cyclery bicycle shop - West Newton, Massachusetts
Handsome tool.
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Old 08-28-14, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by noglider
Btw, it's a funny thing: this is on my Viscount, which came with Viscount cranks, of course. The crank fixing bolts are Whitworth! Thank goodness the extractor threads are either 22mm or close enough that my Campagnolo extractor.
You're lucky. The original Lambert cranks used 7/8" x 24tpi extractor thread. And there were at least two versions of the fixing bolt as well: 5/16" x 26tpi and 5/16" x 22tpi.
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Old 08-28-14, 10:40 AM
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You might like this one mm
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Old 08-28-14, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by peugeot mongrel
thanks! i just snagged it.
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Old 08-28-14, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by rootboy
...I guess the threads per inch on the bolt will affect how the tool works and how "quickly" it extracts the crank, of course. I wonder if there is any mechanical, or safety advantage, to the finer threaded bolt.
Another take is to recognize that a screw is simply a circular ramp. Higher thread count means a less steep ramp and higher mechanical advantage. Speed of removal is a function of rpm.
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