Freewheel removal notch stripped!
08-29-14, 05:42 AM
#26
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I love it how an original post-er kinda just takes off while the rest of us pontificate, cogitate and masturbate. FUN! 
08-29-14, 05:49 AM
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@rootboy - Nah how often does that happen? .....Nearly every post!
08-29-14, 06:02 AM
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I know. I learn a lot from all the seemingly superfluous posts, about all sorts of things like flying needles and such.
08-29-14, 06:26 AM
#29
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Sorry about the delay. I was traveling a good part of yesterday and of course didn't have internet access.
There are multiple challenges associated with these dang New Winner freewheels.
As you can see, they use the adjustable bearing race/retaining ring which requires the special Suntour tool to open them up and service them. This makes dis-assembly on the hub very challenging. To do so, you need to remove the top cog(s), and I have met many a New Winner where the cogs do not budge and chainwhips and cog teeth break.
To complicate the challenge further, I'd guess about a third to half of the two piece retaining ring/bearing race WILL NOT un-thread. 
Yes the percent is that high.
For all of the above reasons I recommend that these New Winners never be purchased, even if NOS. And if you do succeed in removing it, immediately trash it, or send it to me to attempt cog removal (I have about a 40% success rate). Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but these freewheels are truly a PITA and not worth salvaging.
There are multiple challenges associated with these dang New Winner freewheels.
As you can see, they use the adjustable bearing race/retaining ring which requires the special Suntour tool to open them up and service them. This makes dis-assembly on the hub very challenging. To do so, you need to remove the top cog(s), and I have met many a New Winner where the cogs do not budge and chainwhips and cog teeth break.
To complicate the challenge further, I'd guess about a third to half of the two piece retaining ring/bearing race WILL NOT un-thread. Yes the percent is that high.For all of the above reasons I recommend that these New Winners never be purchased, even if NOS. And if you do succeed in removing it, immediately trash it, or send it to me to attempt cog removal (I have about a 40% success rate). Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but these freewheels are truly a PITA and not worth salvaging.
08-29-14, 06:47 AM
#30
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Are you talking about the 2 or 4 prong new winner freewheels? I never liked the design of the 2 prong and as someone else mentioned the park 2 prong tool is not the best. I've never had an issue with the 4 prong and always thought that new winner freewheels were and are pretty good freewheels. I use these on my vintage bikes.
@rootboy, you are just too bad!
But I've been thinking the same thing!
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08-29-14, 06:52 AM
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08-29-14, 07:09 AM
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@rootboy, you are just too bad! But I've been thinking the same thing!
But I've been thinking the same thing!
08-29-14, 09:17 AM
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The Regina two-prong body is much more delicate and unforgiving in my experience. If you have a 13T outer cog, sometimes it helps to remove that cog to allow the remover tool to seat better on the notches. I think those Regina bodies were designed to hold only 4 cogs, and additional cogs just cobbled on top of the old design.
08-29-14, 09:31 AM
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I once knew a girl named Regina
who took lots of heat for her body
an old fashioned girl,
but certainly not shoddy
who still looks pretty good
if you've seen her.
who took lots of heat for her body
an old fashioned girl,
but certainly not shoddy
who still looks pretty good
if you've seen her.
08-29-14, 09:32 AM
#35
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Please don't attack me about this. If the freewheel is junk, then....
I just went through this a couple of months ago with a "peeled" regina
It was wobbling badly so obviously had an internal problem. So, it was probably junk anyway, but we couldn't get it off to change it out.
(This was a Regina freewheel on a 1972 MERCIAN with a Campy Record hub. 40 years of time to get frozen.. This is the type of freewheel that just has two slots in the center hub, and the tool which has two tangs that go into these two slots)
I was at the LBS and "we" immediately wiped-out the center of the hub even though we were using the correct tool.
So, I bought it back home and first I welded the center of the inner hub to the outer freewheel part. Interior edge of the small cog to the interior flat surface of the freewheel. Had a little grease flaming but not bad. Then as you can see in the image, I welded a big nut to the outer cog. I then clamped the big nut in the vice and rotated the whole wheel and the freewheel came right off with no damage to the threads on the hub. This freewheel is now my paperweight.
and yes we had a skewer through the hub and clamped tightly on the tool to hold it to the hub, and the tool was clamped into the vice and we were gripping the wheel trying to turn the freewheel loose. The interior of the center freewheel hub simply peeled away.
My method took ten minutes and the heat transfer is part of this.. the heat expanded the steel freewheel during the welding process
I just went through this a couple of months ago with a "peeled" regina
It was wobbling badly so obviously had an internal problem. So, it was probably junk anyway, but we couldn't get it off to change it out.
(This was a Regina freewheel on a 1972 MERCIAN with a Campy Record hub. 40 years of time to get frozen.. This is the type of freewheel that just has two slots in the center hub, and the tool which has two tangs that go into these two slots)
I was at the LBS and "we" immediately wiped-out the center of the hub even though we were using the correct tool.
So, I bought it back home and first I welded the center of the inner hub to the outer freewheel part. Interior edge of the small cog to the interior flat surface of the freewheel. Had a little grease flaming but not bad. Then as you can see in the image, I welded a big nut to the outer cog. I then clamped the big nut in the vice and rotated the whole wheel and the freewheel came right off with no damage to the threads on the hub. This freewheel is now my paperweight.
and yes we had a skewer through the hub and clamped tightly on the tool to hold it to the hub, and the tool was clamped into the vice and we were gripping the wheel trying to turn the freewheel loose. The interior of the center freewheel hub simply peeled away.
My method took ten minutes and the heat transfer is part of this.. the heat expanded the steel freewheel during the welding process
08-29-14, 09:35 AM
#36
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Good tip on the heat, Hoss. Wonder if the first step on removing an old Regina two-prong should be some heat if it feels like it isn't going to budge.
08-29-14, 11:50 AM
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I would say the same for old Regina freewheels with tiny notches and where all cogs are threaded on. The cogs can be incredibly stuck. I had to use a very long steel tube for leverage around my chainwip. And on the second larest cog the chainwip broke. And the weak noteches are just a joke, you smudge them like butter.
08-29-14, 09:59 PM
#40
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Thanks for the suggestions and further digressions. I managed to get the freewheel off tonight. I made sure to line up the less buggered notch with the prong of the tool that was in better shape. I tightened the quick release all the way, which I had not done before. When that still didn't work, I improvised a lever extension out of a steel post hole digger with a T joint at the top luckily just big enough for the handle of my big adjustable wrench to fit through. Feeling that sucker finally give made my day!
Now...suggestions on non-New Winner freewheels? Looking for something around 7 speed, 12-28.
Now...suggestions on non-New Winner freewheels? Looking for something around 7 speed, 12-28.
08-30-14, 06:25 AM
#41
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Thanks for the suggestions and further digressions. I managed to get the freewheel off tonight. I made sure to line up the less buggered notch with the prong of the tool that was in better shape. I tightened the quick release all the way, which I had not done before. When that still didn't work, I improvised a lever extension out of a steel post hole digger with a T joint at the top luckily just big enough for the handle of my big adjustable wrench to fit through. Feeling that sucker finally give made my day!
Now...suggestions on non-New Winner freewheels? Looking for something around 7 speed, 12-28.
Now...suggestions on non-New Winner freewheels? Looking for something around 7 speed, 12-28.
Lots of options for 7 speeds in that range. I just built a 12-32 7 speed Sachs for a C&V member but he's decided to go in a different direction. Lot's of inexpensive possibilities out there.
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Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
08-30-14, 06:37 AM
#42
Death fork? Naaaah!!
If you can live with 13-28 both Shimano and SunRace can help you out.
Top
Top
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You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
08-30-14, 07:57 AM
#43
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Yes. It is sort of a cheaply made tool. I finally bought a VAR tool for my Regina freewheels, and it is a much more high quality tool.
https://www.amazon.com/Freewheel-Remo...AR+regina+tool
https://www.amazon.com/Freewheel-Remo...AR+regina+tool
Last edited by rootboy; 08-30-14 at 10:03 AM.
08-30-14, 09:39 AM
#44
Death fork? Naaaah!!
Top
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You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
08-30-14, 06:19 PM
#45
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Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
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Bob
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Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
08-30-14, 06:30 PM
#46
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