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Help identifying Peugeot model so I can fix it up.

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Help identifying Peugeot model so I can fix it up.

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Old 10-25-14, 06:54 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Jesterer
I can't seem to get the stem bolt off. Either the bolt head is stripped, or I (and the LBS) don't have the right sized hex key.
A neighbor had to deal with a rounded-inside hex bolt (a.k.a. Allen head bolt) on a motorcycle and was given the hint of trying a torq-drive head. Find one that was a bit tight, drive it in with a hammer if necessary. He just tried a torq head and it worked like a charm.
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Old 10-26-14, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Jesterer
I've run into a problem. I can't seem to get the stem bolt off. Either the bolt head is stripped, or I (and the LBS) don't have the right sized hex key. Does anyone know if the peugeot had an unusually sized hex bolt? My other option is to drill out the bolt head and knock the wedge loose.
If the bolt is stripped, try using an SAE (non-metric) hex wrench. Depending on the bolt, it bight be just a touch larger and can grab the sidewalls. You ma also be able to get the bolt started by jamming a flat-bladed screwdriver in there.

Originally Posted by Jesterer
Also, I had the LBS remove the bottom bracket for me. Now I have a few options. I could replace the ball bearings, regrease, and reassemble, or I could replace with the Velo orange bottom bracket and put on a different crankset. I have also heard of replacing the original cups with these. Now, I'm a bit hazy on these options. Replacing the bearings and regreasing, is straight forward, assuming the cups are good, but then I would still have to deal with the cottered mess when I want to do maintenance. Replacing the bottom bracket with the Velo Orange seems good, but it's expensive, requires specialized tools to insert and I have to find a crankset (also expensive) that will be compatable with my shifting system, correct? With the cup and bearing replacement, I would still be stuck with the cottered crankset I have, it would just make maintenance easier, right? Am I off anywhere? What do you guys think of these options.
I swapped the cottered cranks on my UO8 to a Japanese set (Sugino/Sakae/SR - don't remember the brand). I re-used the existing bearing cups. I did have to file the opening in the bearing cups to allow them to fit over the square taper axle. I had to find an axle of the correct width/offset through trial and error. I also had the "luxury" of a box full of parts I had salvaged over the years.

You absolutely need to replace the stem (i snapped the stem on my UO8) and probably want to ride on alloy rims instead of steel. Add in replacing the cranks and derailleurs and it really makes sense to find a donor bike for parts. A lightly used bike from the early 80's to mid 90's will be a lot cheaper than getting new cranks - I'm thinking the $30 - $50 range.

This will allow you to swap out the entire drivetrain, brakes, stem, and wheels, and whatever cranks you end up with would
work with the Velo Orange bottom bracket.
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Old 10-26-14, 07:03 PM
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I've run into a problem. I can't seem to get the stem bolt off. Either the bolt head is stripped, or I (and the LBS) don't have the right sized hex key. Does anyone know if the peugeot had an unusually sized hex bolt? My other option is to drill out the bolt head and knock the wedge loose.

The old Atax stem uses a 7mm allen wrench/hex key.
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Old 10-27-14, 08:13 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by RandolphCarter
If the bolt is stripped, try using an SAE (non-metric) hex wrench. Depending on the bolt, it bight be just a touch larger and can grab the sidewalls. You ma also be able to get the bolt started by jamming a flat-bladed screwdriver in there.
WD-40 worked like a champ. Sprayed some around the head of the hex bolt and let it soak in overnight. One 7 mm hex key an 10 seconds later I had the stem out.


I swapped the cottered cranks on my UO8 to a Japanese set (Sugino/Sakae/SR - don't remember the brand). I re-used the existing bearing cups. I did have to file the opening in the bearing cups to allow them to fit over the square taper axle. I had to find an axle of the correct width/offset through trial and error. I also had the "luxury" of a box full of parts I had salvaged over the years.
I think I'm going to keep the old cottered cranks, assuming they aren't damaged. I would have to hunt for all those parts to upgrade to cotterless and considering the expense and effort, I can just wait till I have a "box full of parts" later on.

You absolutely need to replace the stem (i snapped the stem on my UO8) and probably want to ride on alloy rims instead of steel.
I believe some SR stems were built for french bikes and are the right size, so I'm probably going to go that direction. I was able to score some aluminum rims and a few other parts for a decent price, so I will be swapping those in.

Add in replacing the cranks and derailleurs and it really makes sense to find a donor bike for parts. A lightly used bike from the early 80's to mid 90's will be a lot cheaper than getting new cranks - I'm thinking the $30 - $50 range.

This will allow you to swap out the entire drivetrain, brakes, stem, and wheels, and whatever cranks you end up with would
work with the Velo Orange bottom bracket.
The french sizes are all different, so it is difficult to find a donor bike who's parts would work. I've been keeping my eyes on craigslist, but old bikes, in moderate repair, in the $30 - $50 range are scarce around here.
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Old 10-27-14, 09:27 AM
  #30  
What??? Only 2 wheels?
 
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Originally Posted by xuwol7
The old Atax stem uses a 7mm allen wrench/hex key.
Cinelli was using 7mm for some time period too. 7mm Allen wrenches aren't so common. I found a Harbor Freight set with a 7mm though, quite inexpensive. At least I think I remember it was from HF.
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