1977 Schwinn Le Tour II All Original - Am I Going Down A Slippery Slope? Photos
#1
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1977 Schwinn Le Tour II All Original - Am I Going Down A Slippery Slope? Photos
I joked all summer long that I was going to buy my husband a "pink mixte", as a joke. Well, I ended up with a 1977 Schwinn Le Tour II in "Violet" all original. Talked the seller down in price, then paid full price (long story....karma). Seller was a woman sorter than me who bought the bike from a bike shop. Given how clean & original it is I suspect the shop slapped on new brake pads and called it good. Anyway it's a 22" size, 10 speed. I had a 1976 or 1977 Schwinn Le Tour diamond frame in yellow in 1977 when I started junior high school. The school was farther than my elementary school, but not far enough to take the bus. So I rode that bike from 1977 until around 1983 when it got stolen. I loved that bike and it was my transportation as well as my escape to adventure. I could ride it with no hands for miles.
OK, so here's the "Violet" beauty. The head badge # says 3206 and the left dropout says 7A11796. So I guess it was assembled in 1976 for the 1977 model year. Their mixes didn't have the dual "top tube" - this one is solid, then becomes 2 rear of the seat tube. It has steel rims with Kool Stop brake pads.
OK, so here's the "Violet" beauty. The head badge # says 3206 and the left dropout says 7A11796. So I guess it was assembled in 1976 for the 1977 model year. Their mixes didn't have the dual "top tube" - this one is solid, then becomes 2 rear of the seat tube. It has steel rims with Kool Stop brake pads.
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Photos part II -
Observations. There are grey plastic things on the ends of the bolts - is that primarily for looks? There's a shim looking thing in the seat tube - purpose? Hubs say Schwinn Approved Made in France 48-74, shifters say "Product of Japan" on washer and the rubber shifter hoods say "Sunshift"!!! Rims are Araya with 27 x 1 1/4" new tires. Who made the derailleurs & components? Are those Suntour derailleurs labeled as "Le Tour"? The down tube cable stop clamp says Shimano on it, so maybe the derailleurs are, in fact, Shimano. I understand that Schwinn used other vendors who made the components and labeled them as theirs. Did these bikes usually have "hoods" on the brake levers? Catalog photos seem to indicate that there were no hoods originally on this bike.
So I plan to repack wheel hubs, bottom bracket & headset. Any surprises await me regarding size (especially for headset)? Will headset be .833, as I've read? Everything seems to spin easily and adjusted well, so hopefully no surprises.
Observations. There are grey plastic things on the ends of the bolts - is that primarily for looks? There's a shim looking thing in the seat tube - purpose? Hubs say Schwinn Approved Made in France 48-74, shifters say "Product of Japan" on washer and the rubber shifter hoods say "Sunshift"!!! Rims are Araya with 27 x 1 1/4" new tires. Who made the derailleurs & components? Are those Suntour derailleurs labeled as "Le Tour"? The down tube cable stop clamp says Shimano on it, so maybe the derailleurs are, in fact, Shimano. I understand that Schwinn used other vendors who made the components and labeled them as theirs. Did these bikes usually have "hoods" on the brake levers? Catalog photos seem to indicate that there were no hoods originally on this bike.
So I plan to repack wheel hubs, bottom bracket & headset. Any surprises await me regarding size (especially for headset)? Will headset be .833, as I've read? Everything seems to spin easily and adjusted well, so hopefully no surprises.
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Wonderful find! I believe the stem is a .833, which does limit those choices. Do you need one with a different reach?
IIRC, those are rebranded Shimano derailleurs. Usually they did not come with hoods. Have fun!
IIRC, those are rebranded Shimano derailleurs. Usually they did not come with hoods. Have fun!
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Wow that bike is clean. Doesn't need a thing, besides the usual lube/adjust, if that. I'd pick up some used aluminum rims at CityBikes/CCC and rebuild the wheels, for better rain stopping. Or leave it as a dry weather bike.
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That is a beautiful bike. I think the gray plastic caps are there to protect the threads. I don't know if they came on the bike but they are a nice touch.
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Cool color. The gray nub on the brake centerbolt was on the bike when it shipped. In theory, it protects the threads of the bolt and you (if you were to rub up against it). Some builders routinely tossed them in the trash. And I'm pretty sure most of the others fall off or crack or something over 40 years of service. I have the same model (in a diamond frame) and I think the most elegant part on it is the stem. Too bad its hidden behind the ball bat sized stem shifter handles. I found some period correct down tube clamp on shifters to replace them. The cable lining looks original also. You might be missing the outer chain guard on the crank and the front reflector + bracket (just in case you want to go "completest" on it).
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The shim for the seatpost is because they used a narrow steel post. Or maybe it is because they didn't finish the inside of the seat tube too well. There is the same shim on my UO-8.
You know, since I have 650B rando bikes on the brain, and because you should do away with the steel rims anyway, I'm going to propose you lace some 650B rims and install some wide supple tires, and polished VO fenders. I think there is a decent chance the brakes will reach and the fenders will fit. You could bring it by VeloCult and have them test fit some 650B wheels.
You know, since I have 650B rando bikes on the brain, and because you should do away with the steel rims anyway, I'm going to propose you lace some 650B rims and install some wide supple tires, and polished VO fenders. I think there is a decent chance the brakes will reach and the fenders will fit. You could bring it by VeloCult and have them test fit some 650B wheels.
#8
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EDIT: Definitely a Dia-Compe "thing": Dia Compe Brake Bolt End Cap for Old School BMX | eBay
There's a shim looking thing in the seat tube - purpose?
Who made the derailleurs & components?
The Schwinn Approved GT-450 Le Tour FD was a rebadged Shimano 50: A Complete Line of Shimano (1975) page 17
Any surprises await me regarding size (especially for headset)? Will headset be .833, as I've read?
Last edited by Metacortex; 10-23-14 at 01:37 PM.
#9
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Those same caps were on the brake bolts of my Carabela, so probably a Dia Compe thing. I think they're even DC branded if you look closely at them. Yes, and a BEAUTIFUL time warp bike. Nice find!,,,,BD
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If you look close at both front and rear derailleurs, you can find "shimano" printed somewhere on them. All of the "Schwinn Approved" and "Letour" labeling represent a micro time capsule. A capsule that holds the story of company who's misdirected pride led them to attempt to hide the fact that their complacency forced them to "badge engineer" a bike to stay competitive, along with the lingery japanese bigotry from WWII. In succeeding years, Le Tours and all Schwinns become less and less "approved".
#11
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This Le Tour II has the same brake plastic caps. The RD is Shimano rebranded, you can read it on the bolt. I just sold a Le Tour II that had the same seatpost shim as you mentioned.
Last edited by oddjob2; 10-22-14 at 06:32 PM.
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very nice.... ride and enjoy. I would not rebuild the wheels, if you want aluminum rims, just look around for a set of 27" aluminum rim wheels in good shape at a good price.
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#13
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@uncle uncle - it has all the reflectors, including the front one. The wheel reflectors are white as is the front one; rear wheel is red. Don't think it's meant to have chain guard. Here's the link to the 1997 Schwinn Catalog:
1977 Schwinn Catalog
So, if I want to repack the pedals, how do I get the end cap off? It's smooth, and I don't want to mar the surface trying to grab onto it. I'm presuming the domed end is a cap which is scr*wed on.
I just finished repacking bottom bracket and it had tons of clean, moist grease in it. Since I was in there, though, I went ahead cleaned, etc. So that's done. Front derailleur cleaned & lubed (I am not removing it for ultrasonic cleaning. Front derailleurs are finicky to get adjusted perfectly). I'm about to remove the rear for a dip in the ultrasonic cleaner. Never had a bike with a "claw" derailleur hanger. I presume I remove the wheel, then undo the hanger from the frame.
Here's the inside of the bottom bracket after a light cleaning. Really pristine. Had one of those plastic tubes in there. Just great. Someone has serviced this bike within the last few years because things were lubricated and not super difficult to disassemble.
Who made the hubs? Maillard? They say Schwinn Approved Made in France. Thanks everyone for your excellent insights.
1977 Schwinn Catalog
So, if I want to repack the pedals, how do I get the end cap off? It's smooth, and I don't want to mar the surface trying to grab onto it. I'm presuming the domed end is a cap which is scr*wed on.
I just finished repacking bottom bracket and it had tons of clean, moist grease in it. Since I was in there, though, I went ahead cleaned, etc. So that's done. Front derailleur cleaned & lubed (I am not removing it for ultrasonic cleaning. Front derailleurs are finicky to get adjusted perfectly). I'm about to remove the rear for a dip in the ultrasonic cleaner. Never had a bike with a "claw" derailleur hanger. I presume I remove the wheel, then undo the hanger from the frame.
Here's the inside of the bottom bracket after a light cleaning. Really pristine. Had one of those plastic tubes in there. Just great. Someone has serviced this bike within the last few years because things were lubricated and not super difficult to disassemble.
Who made the hubs? Maillard? They say Schwinn Approved Made in France. Thanks everyone for your excellent insights.
Last edited by Velocivixen; 10-22-14 at 07:00 PM. Reason: added a question
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Bricknd?s 1974 Schwinn Le Tour | Old Ten Speed Gallery
Mine has a crank like this one... with the same empty holes for the removed chain guard. But, my bad. Sorry to mislead anyone.
Mine has a crank like this one... with the same empty holes for the removed chain guard. But, my bad. Sorry to mislead anyone.
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Hubs are indeed Maillard. I back the idea of 650b, I've been thinking seriously about building up a touring rig with a Le Tour frame.
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The original pedals are KKT RT-E, which are unfortunately not serviceable. I normally dribble oil into the inner and outer bearings and spin them a bit to let it soak in: JBM - Japans Top Bicycle Parts Makers page 16
The Le Tour used the same Takagi made crankset from '74-'78. It was a rebranded Tourney model with a steel chainguard, except that for some reason in '77 *only* they deleted the guard: JBM - Japans Top Bicycle Parts Makers page 5
The Le Tour used the same Takagi made crankset from '74-'78. It was a rebranded Tourney model with a steel chainguard, except that for some reason in '77 *only* they deleted the guard: JBM - Japans Top Bicycle Parts Makers page 5
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I trust you weren't out in the rain today... nasty!!
That bike looks 100% original and in pretty good shape. Maybe you'll have it at next year's Portland C&V ride?
That bike looks 100% original and in pretty good shape. Maybe you'll have it at next year's Portland C&V ride?
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Yes. Just loosen the screw at the back of the dropout and slide everything forward. The nut is "D" shaped so it sits at the back of the dropout.
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Bricknd?s 1974 Schwinn Le Tour | Old Ten Speed Gallery
Mine has a crank like this one... with the same empty holes for the removed chain guard. But, my bad. Sorry to mislead anyone.
Mine has a crank like this one... with the same empty holes for the removed chain guard. But, my bad. Sorry to mislead anyone.
Thanks everyone for your thoughts. If I did 650b down the line I'd have to get new brake calipers, because I doubt these would even handle 700c - it would be close. You know I rode my 1977 Schwinn Le Tour for 6 years in the rain, snow, you name it and I'm still alive. I used those safety levers like no one's business. You just get used to the machine you're on. Of course with today's better brake pad compounds and yes, non steel rims stop much better. I'm buying new brake cables and Kool Stop pads. I'll ride this and, if decide not to keep, will sell in the spring.
I've been in the garage since about 2 pm Weds. and it is now 12:58 a.m. the next day! I had to stop - mostly because I don't have any brake cables! Bottom bracket done, headset done, rear wheel hub done, derailleurs both removed & ultrasonically cleaned and replaced. Chain ultrasonically cleaned and is drying. Any part that could come off & fit in the ultrasonic cleaner was cleaned. I injected a little grease/phil wood tenacious oil into the pedal spindles. Bike paint cleaned & waxed. New shifter cables but used the same housing - dribbled a little Tri-flow in there for good measure. Saddle adjusted & tires inflated to proper levels. Tomorrow I'll lube the chain, repack front wheel hub, replace brake cables, pads and polish the brake calipers.
So for the steel wheels what's the best way to get them clean? They're great, but look just like water spots on them. Just soapy water & a rag?
I'll keep this thread updated as I go along.
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I dry my chains in a counter top convection oven at 200F for about 45-60 minutes after ultrasonic cleaning. I then lube them while they are hot with warm Chain-L (don't want to start a chain lube debate). The point being is you can be 100% certain there is no moisture left in the chain when it comes out of the oven, and the heat helps carry the lubricant to the inner part of the bearing where it is needed.
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#23
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We're the same height but our proportions a are totally different. Of course he's welcome to ride any of my bikes, but he is really comfortable on either his commuter bike (Trek 200 SU) or his college bike (Nishiki Pueblo, which he allowed me to totally overhaul). The official color name is "Violet" and I will likely refer to it as such, although our cat is called "Violet" so it could get confusing.
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They don't like that.
They don't like that.
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My wife has a World Traveler III of a similar vintage. Your rear derailleur looks identical to the Shimano 400 on that bike.
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