Converting a 1968 Schwinn Super Sport to Three Piece Crank
10-28-14, 06:38 PM
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joychri
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Converting a 1968 Schwinn Super Sport to Three Piece Crank
Hi All,
I am planning on converting my 1968 Super Sport from a one piece to a three piece crankset using the TruVativ conversion kit. I am wondering for those that have done this if there are any types of bottom brackets or cranksets I should avoid. My understanding is that I am limited to English threading by the TruVativ conversion kit but before I purchase a new bottom bracket and crankset I would like to know if there are any that have caused people problems. My plan is to use a nicer crankset from the seventies or eighties (maybe a triple) in combination with a newer bottom bracket such as sold by velo-orange. I have posted a few pictures of the bike as it is currently set up below. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
I am planning on converting my 1968 Super Sport from a one piece to a three piece crankset using the TruVativ conversion kit. I am wondering for those that have done this if there are any types of bottom brackets or cranksets I should avoid. My understanding is that I am limited to English threading by the TruVativ conversion kit but before I purchase a new bottom bracket and crankset I would like to know if there are any that have caused people problems. My plan is to use a nicer crankset from the seventies or eighties (maybe a triple) in combination with a newer bottom bracket such as sold by velo-orange. I have posted a few pictures of the bike as it is currently set up below. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
10-28-14, 07:09 PM
#2
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It should be an easy conversion. Just match the crank to the bottom bracket.
10-28-14, 07:39 PM
#3
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Here's a good write-up on the process: Hugh`s bicycle blog: Bottom Bracket Conversion American-to-Euro
10-29-14, 02:14 PM
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joychri
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Bikes: 1973 Raleigh Super Course, 1979 Raleigh Competition GS, 1987 Shogun 300, 1989 Trek 520, 1995 Gary Fisher Wahoo, 1968 Schwinn Super Sport, 1976 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1971 Raleigh Competition, Gunnar Crosshairs
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Thank for the responses.
Metacortex that articles looks very helpful. Much appreciated.
Metacortex that articles looks very helpful. Much appreciated.
10-29-14, 02:20 PM
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If you're getting a new bottom bracket anyway, just pick your crank then buy the corresponding BB. Here's a handy cheat sheet: Sheldon Brown's Bottom Bracket Size Database
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10-30-14, 01:05 PM
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I had to bevel the edge of the TruVativ adapter to get it to seat correctly, I used my bench grinder:
Beveled and correctly seated allows a 68mm English BB to work perfectly:
Last edited by Mr IGH; 10-30-14 at 01:12 PM.
10-30-14, 01:16 PM
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Here's a good write-up on the process: Hugh`s bicycle blog: Bottom Bracket Conversion American-to-Euro
10-30-14, 02:25 PM
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Sweet... another gorgeous FB project, and a 60's model to boot. Keep the pictures coming, please! 
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10-30-14, 02:37 PM
#9
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My '73 Super Sport conversion using the TruVative adapter was completely painless. I used a Campy Centaur bottom bracket (111mm spindle, English threaded, Campagnolo p/n BB5-CE1G). The crankset is Campy Comp Triple.
Last edited by Scooper; 10-30-14 at 03:01 PM. Reason: added BB p/n
10-30-14, 03:05 PM
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...like Mr IGH, I had some seating issues in the frame I used, so if you have the luxury of time, you might want to install the conversion kit first, and then measure the resulting width of what you end up with in terms of whether a 68 will work, or whether something a little wider or more universal (68-73) might be advisable in your selection of a spindle unit. Also, try to be smarter than me and put the correctly threaded sides in their respective positions the first time.
Otherwise, as stated above, it's not a big deal what you use, so long as you get the correct spindle length for your chosen crank that maintains a good chainline.
Otherwise, as stated above, it's not a big deal what you use, so long as you get the correct spindle length for your chosen crank that maintains a good chainline.
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10-30-14, 03:07 PM
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10-30-14, 03:46 PM
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10-30-14, 03:59 PM
#13
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Here's a close-up of my BB shell before installing the adapter; there are no internal ridges or other interference in my '73 SS.
10-30-14, 04:43 PM
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The green SS frame with ridge in my picture was a 1970, my wife's yellow 1971 had the ridge and a 1973 SS I converted had the ridge. I've never seen a SS without the BB ridge. I've had quite a few SS and ST frames over the years:
Last edited by Mr IGH; 10-31-14 at 08:53 AM.
10-30-14, 08:20 PM
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Considering that the original cranks have useful chainring sizes and will work flawlessly with modern 9-speed chain, I would only change out the crankset on one of these bikes if I couldn't find any good pedals with 1/2" threads for my usage. I have always been able to source 1/2"-threaded clipless pedals whenever I put a good Schwinn on the road.
Schwinn's patented 39-52t chainring assembly works for me here with many of my usual freewheels choices, so I enjoy the original crank's creak-free performance, looks and durability, though I usually remove the chainring guard for weight saving and appearance considerations.
I'd like to think that one's perception of these one-piece cranks is perhaps put into better perspective by seeing a carefully assembled bike with original crankset still in place, so take a look and make your decision. Remember also that the adaptors have considerable weight of their own that gets added to the bike. Perhaps someone else can chime in as to whether the adaptors limit the tightening torque that can be applied to the fixed cup during installation.
Note that removing the chainring guard requires five suitably-sized washers to achieve torque on the chainring bolts.
Schwinn's patented 39-52t chainring assembly works for me here with many of my usual freewheels choices, so I enjoy the original crank's creak-free performance, looks and durability, though I usually remove the chainring guard for weight saving and appearance considerations.
I'd like to think that one's perception of these one-piece cranks is perhaps put into better perspective by seeing a carefully assembled bike with original crankset still in place, so take a look and make your decision. Remember also that the adaptors have considerable weight of their own that gets added to the bike. Perhaps someone else can chime in as to whether the adaptors limit the tightening torque that can be applied to the fixed cup during installation.
Note that removing the chainring guard requires five suitably-sized washers to achieve torque on the chainring bolts.
10-31-14, 09:19 AM
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Considering that the original cranks have useful chainring sizes and will work flawlessly with modern 9-speed chain, I would only change out the crankset on one of these bikes if I couldn't find any good pedals with 1/2" threads for my usage. I have always been able to source 1/2"-threaded clipless pedals whenever I put a good Schwinn on the road.
Schwinn's patented 39-52t chainring assembly works for me here with many of my usual freewheels choices, so I enjoy the original crank's creak-free performance, looks and durability, though I usually remove the chainring guard for weight saving and appearance considerations.
I'd like to think that one's perception of these one-piece cranks is perhaps put into better perspective by seeing a carefully assembled bike with original crankset still in place, so take a look and make your decision. Remember also that the adaptors have considerable weight of their own that gets added to the bike. Perhaps someone else can chime in as to whether the adaptors limit the tightening torque that can be applied to the fixed cup during installation.
Note that removing the chainring guard requires five suitably-sized washers to achieve torque on the chainring bolts.
Schwinn's patented 39-52t chainring assembly works for me here with many of my usual freewheels choices, so I enjoy the original crank's creak-free performance, looks and durability, though I usually remove the chainring guard for weight saving and appearance considerations.
I'd like to think that one's perception of these one-piece cranks is perhaps put into better perspective by seeing a carefully assembled bike with original crankset still in place, so take a look and make your decision. Remember also that the adaptors have considerable weight of their own that gets added to the bike. Perhaps someone else can chime in as to whether the adaptors limit the tightening torque that can be applied to the fixed cup during installation.
Note that removing the chainring guard requires five suitably-sized washers to achieve torque on the chainring bolts.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
10-31-14, 09:25 AM
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10-31-14, 10:17 AM
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Yes, very organic-looking, especially after the smoothing effect of your bike's powdercoat.
Bling alert on what seems like a redundancy in the cable-guiding hardware(?). Same reason that I chose the REG bottle cage btw.
Admittedly there is pure function in your front derailer cable housing now being unable to trap water inside.
Bling alert on what seems like a redundancy in the cable-guiding hardware(?). Same reason that I chose the REG bottle cage btw.
Admittedly there is pure function in your front derailer cable housing now being unable to trap water inside.
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