slowtostart

Yes. Borrow a bike.

noglider 

I imagine your goal is finishing, not making an impressive time. Ride a bike that you're comfortable on that allows you to finish. Definitely do not use a bike that you haven't already ridden a lot. Last minute equipment changes are a bad idea.

I did an Olympic triathlon once. I was on a relay team and did only the bike portion. I went in totally unprepared as a last-minute substitute, as the woman slated for that spot had to be with a dying family member. I brought the bike I had, not the bike I wished I had. The bike portion was 25 miles. I was astonished at how half the people there had much worse bikes than I did. I mean much, much worse. I felt sorry for one guy when I saw his bike, but then I realized I was mistaken. He was an amazing athlete, and I couldn't keep up with him.

Of course, an olympic triathlon is a lot less serious than an ironman, so my advice might not apply.

Let us know how it goes!

CrosbyDog

Nice. You didn't do it on the Lotus did you?

crank_addict

CrosbyDog- Commendable going for an Ironman, let alone while using a vintage bike. Couldn't imagine such a brutal loooong day! I don't know what its worth in logging time but for crunching budget would just install a light fast set of tires, clamp-on aero bar and maybe a forward set seatpost. Being comfy with the right saddle while in the TT position would obviously help.

But then again, as mentioned above there's super buys on tri-specific bikes. Whats it worth to one, I don't know but surely will help in lowering times over the longer distance events. $500 should get you something fairly respectable and maybe later build upon with a fast wheelset, etc.

Also amazing deals for new on a budget. I just looked at a brand new '2012' Trek Speed Concept 2.5 Alpha whatever ready to roll for $1300. Plus often found used aero carbon / tubular wheelsets run $4-500. Save for race day top-line pairs of tubular rubber can be found for $120-130. So with that, approx. $2k for a not too bad of a modern TT.

Back on topic of vintage tt / tri bikes. Been thinking more of it this last Summer and now holding onto my old Profile bars... wink. Some others in our Sat. AM group rides do compete in the smaller tri-events and where I'm able to size myself up. Have a good feel in my speed and confidence while on an old steel w/ DT shifters, toe-clips, etc. and they're riding modern CF with all the high-end equipment. Long distance is my preference. My weakness might now be running. Due to hardware holding a tibia and ankle together, its been years since I've done any distance running. However, I still do lots of swimming. Could use some coaching but as usual won't invest in it. Before I attempt any local short events this coming year, I'll probably play with setting up a vintage bike (really don't need the aero bars for short rides).... only because me likey

Would like to see pics of your bikes-

slowtostart

IRONMAN Lake Placid IRONMAN Lake Placid Registration Information - IRONMAN.com | Official Site of IRONMAN, IRONMAN 70.3, 5i50, Iron Girl and IRONKIDS | Triathlon Races | Official IRONMAN Merchandise | IRONMAN World Championship in Kona, Hawaii

Perhaps I have misunderstood your proposed race. Have you already paid your entry fee?

SvenMN 

Absolutely not IMO, as long as you have put the training time in and are comfortable on the bike you will be racing. The comfort versus speed balance requires careful consideration. Good suggestions on equipping your Lotus with aero bars, forward seat post, comfortable saddle, decent wheels and tires, etc.

I've raced all but one of my vintage steel bikes over the last 4 summers and it was always good fun. However, when I finished my first half ironman in Duluth last August the bike leg was done on my three-year old carbon fiber Kestrel 4000. My legs are noticeably fresher coming off the modern Kestrel versus the vintage steel, but the steel bikes all have road geometry. Summer 2013 I raced an oly tri and just couldn't get the run pace going... turns out I had forgotten to raise the seat post and move the saddle forward from the TT race position from the Tuesday night before. In my case at least, the increased seat post angle makes a noticable difference. I think my fitter has me at 79 degrees.

I have nothing but admiration for those of you that have completed a full IM or are even considering one... a HUGE time commitment for the training, with the icing on the cake being able to start and then finish the race.

slowtostart

You can train and feel good about your fitness without drinking the "Ironman" Kool-Ade.

RobbieTunes

Used a used Ironman, of which I'm a fan.

slowtostart

Cost for this experience?

RobbieTunes

&^%$ buzzkill, that.

RobbieTunes

Someone stole George Jetson's bike.........

crank_addict

Whatever floats your boat... er' head. I'd rather sport a hairnet before this thing!

CrosbyDog

Thanks for all the helpful input guys, but screw it I'm just gonna ride my fixie.


Just kidding.

But someone did ask for a picture of my bikes and I've been dying to show this one off. This is my late '70's French Motobecane Grand Touring that I crashed in June, bending the fork like hell and destroying the front derailleur (along w. my left shoulder) resurrected as a fixie for now. Put on old sugino crank arms, new sugino crank, a new fork, Brooks C17 saddle (which I hate, but it's pretty), and a new 27" wheel for the back.

CrosbyDog

FWIW this is the Lotus Competition I was considering using for the Ironman. Good for a tri or not, I think she's purty and she's v fast. The only thing I replaced was the saddle.. Campy headset, weirdo-retro Shimano BioPace crank, lots of pretty brazed on things, and Shimano 600 everything else. Sorry for the sideways photos.

RobbieTunes

I'd seriously ride that in any triathlon. C-Dog, and smugly smile about it.

crank_addict

That Lotus Comp is schweet! Like the color too. Since you ask of others opinion and your goal, I probably would re-work this bike and go for it in a smaller event. The biopace would be bye-bye. Would also spend for a near period but tricked out tubular wheel build. Add a Profile Airstryke with the flip-up armrest. Leave the DT shifters. All depending how you fit, might try some different seatpost with forward set capability. The older SR fluted with the full tilt rail clamps work fine. (I'm not sure if the SR MTE100 will work for forward set, but its one type that's been on my radar.)

Looking back and maybe the Trek experts can chime in, but I sort of recall in the 1980's, the Tri-Series were really just different painted 500 series sport touring frames.

Other:
About the Moto with the Brooks C-17. What is it you don't like about it? I've been considering one for a modern ride.

seypat

I think most of the companies did that. My "official" tri bike is of course a Miami Vice Ironman. I only do about 1 a year so it serves its purpose. That paint job is intimidating as well. I also have an 85 Miyata 912 which they marketed as their tri bike. The two frames are mirror images as far as geometry and weight goes. I put pictures up on one of these threads but I forgot which one it was. I also have a Team Miyata. The geometry on it is way different than the other two.

crank_addict

Reading CrosbyDog's goal is motivating.

Has me thinking of a vintage ride for a few local smaller tri events this coming year.
One pair of old speedies I had for the long gone Colnago. Still have the old Profile clamp-ons.

CrosbyDog

Thanks man!

Other:
About the Moto with the Brooks C-17. What is it you don't like about it? I've been considering one for a modern ride.[/QUOTE]

I have a Brooks B-17 which I love because after a few weeks on it, it molds to your butt and becomes just the most comfortable saddle ever (IMHO)… the C-17 looks sweet, but it's made of rubber that retains its shape and won't mold after repeated use. This may be desirable for some, but I think there's nothing more comfortable than a well broken-in B-17

Barchettaman

Lovely bike, Crosbydog.

i wonder if it might be a bit overgeared for the Ironman. The inner chainring looks like a 42. Maybe swap in a compact crank to get a bit more low range, and save your legs for the run. Grinding up the hills will kill your legs for the marathon!

andr0id

So, a few comments to add...

First, triathletes are far, far worse that cyclists when it comes to being gear heads. They will argue about 0.87 watts of drag on a tri bike for hours. Just ignore all that blather about the fastest bike.

The key ingredient of ALL/ANY TT style bikes is to get you more aerodynamic and they will ALL do this. Even the inexpensive models like a P2C with 105. Those 0.87 watts don't matter much once you park a huge human on top.

Aero bars on a road bike are a huge compromise. To get aero and comfortable, you will likely need a shorter stem than what you would normally run on a properly set up road bike. So if you get a TT bar setup for you road frame, consider playing with a shorter stem and flipping it to get the drop so that your torso is more parallel to the ground.

Work up to riding distance in the TT position. Get comfortable doing a fast 25 miles and then start adding on.

RobbieTunes

I considered that, but have a couple of friends who were B-17 fanatics, until they rode the C-17's, and within a month switched all their bikes to the C-17 in various versions. They are over the moon about those saddles. I know, anecdotal evidence, but that's what I've been told.

RobbieTunes

My old "setup" for moving an Ironman to tri-bike was a swap of the seat post/saddle combo to a Profile Design Fast Forward and a wider saddle, tilted a bit downward, and clamp-ons. Because these were quill stem bikes, I didn't go with the shorter stem, and the seat post provided what I needed in reach. Still, I set my bars as far back on the tops as I could (a lot of older ones couldn't be adjusted here, hence my use of Scott bars...slide 'em, ride 'em.)

I never did work up to riding distance in the TT position, electing instead to ride the drops where I feel better and just pedal hard. I know I give up a bit, but I'm not competitive, time-wise. I do like having the drops, for when some person decides to illegally draft me on the isolated stretches. It gives me the ability to peek down and make sure the rider is on my wheel, and then more control (with zero warning) when I suddenly nail the brakes.....

CrosbyDog

It's funny.. I've now been riding on the C-17 a bit more (every day for about 4 weeks now), and while it's not as comfortable as the B-17, it's growing on me a little bit.

RobbieTunes

That might be mold.