What component change makes the most dramatic difference?
11-16-14, 09:06 AM
#51
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Apologies for what might be an irreverent post. But, thanks to Bob Hanson for originally posting that photo over on the CR list this morning. I really needed a good laugh this morning..and that did it.
11-16-14, 09:09 AM
#52
aka Tom Reingold
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That's OK, rootboy. I'm fixing myself a second breakfast to replace the one I tossed. No worries.
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11-16-14, 01:24 PM
#53
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@ you guys, first laugh of the day!
11-16-14, 04:52 PM
#54
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I swap out the old bicycle for a different bicycle fairly regularly. Seems to make a difference.
11-16-14, 05:49 PM
#55
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People are interpreting my original question in various different ways, and that's cool, because the responses are interesting.
When we were 14, my friend and I put toe clips on our bikes at the same time, and then we took a long ride. We loved them so much and swore we would never go back.
In my early 20's I had some shoes with slotted cleats, and they have an obvious advantage over not having cleats, but they were kind of scary. I rarely set my right strap tight.
In my late 20's clipless cleats came out, and to me, the difference between that and toe clips was about as dramatic as the difference between no foot retention and toe clips.
When we were 14, my friend and I put toe clips on our bikes at the same time, and then we took a long ride. We loved them so much and swore we would never go back.
In my early 20's I had some shoes with slotted cleats, and they have an obvious advantage over not having cleats, but they were kind of scary. I rarely set my right strap tight.
In my late 20's clipless cleats came out, and to me, the difference between that and toe clips was about as dramatic as the difference between no foot retention and toe clips.
Clipless pedals,
11-16-14, 07:44 PM
#57
Senior Member
Most bang for your buck:
A KMC z50 chain, coupled with a Shimano hyperglide freewheel. The Shimano freewheels are ugly but usually worth it IMO.
A KMC z50 chain, coupled with a Shimano hyperglide freewheel. The Shimano freewheels are ugly but usually worth it IMO.
11-16-14, 10:01 PM
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I'd say changing the frame makes the biggest difference LOL!
But seriously, i think tires make the biggest difference as they telegraph the bumps affecting the way you interface with bars, saddle, cranks,etc. My second choice would be brakes, a spankin new set makes a massive difference on the backside of every hill.
But seriously, i think tires make the biggest difference as they telegraph the bumps affecting the way you interface with bars, saddle, cranks,etc. My second choice would be brakes, a spankin new set makes a massive difference on the backside of every hill.
11-16-14, 10:05 PM
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A lot of assumptions. If you're riding a road bike, changing the handlebars won't have anywhere near the impact other changes will.....
11-16-14, 10:19 PM
#60
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
11-16-14, 10:52 PM
#61
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Clicked on this thread because I also own a Super Course, 1984 model. I purchased it in near-new condition. Slowly, I removed its original components, put them in a special box, and replaced them with modern, more-functional components.
The only thing I DIDN'T change was the handlebars. :--) I like the old 38mm spread on these OEM drop bars. For me, it feels right, and the drop bars offer a number of different hand positions you cannot get with flat bars.
However, I DID replace the following:
1. Wheels. The OEM front Araya had a dish in its seam. Changing that wheel was a no-brainer, a necessity.
2. Sprocket assembly. The OEM 12x23 was not my friend on these long local steep hills. A 14x28 gave me the large cog I needed.
3. Rear Derailleur. The old derailleur didn't work well with the new, wider-spread sprocket assembly. So I installed a new, longer RD. Problem solved.
4. Front Derailleur. Because it was cheap and it works like buttah.
5. Brake hoods. Those little holes in the OEM Dia-Compes look cool. But it's still metal against your hands. The new Cane Creek brake hoods are lovely, soft rubber that invite and encourage your hands to rest there, whether sitting or standing.
6. Brakes. Another no-brainer. Modern, brushed aluminum Ultegras provide superior braking with easily replaceable shoes.
Which one is the most significant in terms of changing the bike's personality? Probably items 1 through 6.
I love this bike now. But it took awhile. . .
Duane Behrens
The only thing I DIDN'T change was the handlebars. :--) I like the old 38mm spread on these OEM drop bars. For me, it feels right, and the drop bars offer a number of different hand positions you cannot get with flat bars.
However, I DID replace the following:
1. Wheels. The OEM front Araya had a dish in its seam. Changing that wheel was a no-brainer, a necessity.
2. Sprocket assembly. The OEM 12x23 was not my friend on these long local steep hills. A 14x28 gave me the large cog I needed.
3. Rear Derailleur. The old derailleur didn't work well with the new, wider-spread sprocket assembly. So I installed a new, longer RD. Problem solved.
4. Front Derailleur. Because it was cheap and it works like buttah.
5. Brake hoods. Those little holes in the OEM Dia-Compes look cool. But it's still metal against your hands. The new Cane Creek brake hoods are lovely, soft rubber that invite and encourage your hands to rest there, whether sitting or standing.
6. Brakes. Another no-brainer. Modern, brushed aluminum Ultegras provide superior braking with easily replaceable shoes.
Which one is the most significant in terms of changing the bike's personality? Probably items 1 through 6.
I love this bike now. But it took awhile. . .
Duane Behrens
Last edited by Duane Behrens; 11-16-14 at 10:58 PM.
11-17-14, 12:10 AM
#62
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Components? Yeah, it has to be the bars. I've hated every bike I've ridden in the last ten years that doesn't have drop bars.
MTBs excepted; although so far every MTB I've converted to drop bars has been greatly improved.
MTBs excepted; although so far every MTB I've converted to drop bars has been greatly improved.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
11-17-14, 05:36 AM
#63
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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I tried replacing a pedal with a handlebar, but the bike was nearly unrideable afterwards. So I replaced the headset bearings with chain links, but that just made it worse.
I don't think I'm cut out to be a mad scientist.
I don't think I'm cut out to be a mad scientist.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
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jimmuller
Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
11-17-14, 07:03 AM
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@jimmuller - 
Don't count yourself out! if only 1% is successful....... Try replacing the saddle with a handlebar. I've not done it but I have seen many ride on the front with their feet on the front axle and sitting on the bars. That would be dramatic and different. Do they make stems with a 27.2 Diam?
The question did not say anything about improvement!
Don't count yourself out! if only 1% is successful....... Try replacing the saddle with a handlebar. I've not done it but I have seen many ride on the front with their feet on the front axle and sitting on the bars. That would be dramatic and different. Do they make stems with a 27.2 Diam?The question did not say anything about improvement!
11-17-14, 09:56 AM
#65
Senior Member
The things I feel make the biggest difference, in order:
1) tires
2) handlebars
3) saddle
4) brake pads
5) rear cluster
1) tires
2) handlebars
3) saddle
4) brake pads
5) rear cluster
11-18-14, 04:28 PM
#66
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yeah, i had a print out bespoke fit in the 90/s and it suggested 44c/c bars and they just felt so right from the 42's.yes much better for out
of the saddle up hilling everything.it also said 172.5 cranks so i switched to them and they feel better.
yes they do say lighter wheels are the best instant upgrade i suppose for up hilling especially.
but they can also be the largest expense.
yes and its a great feeling when you know you have really good quality brake pads.
best wishes kevin
of the saddle up hilling everything.it also said 172.5 cranks so i switched to them and they feel better.
yes they do say lighter wheels are the best instant upgrade i suppose for up hilling especially.
but they can also be the largest expense.
yes and its a great feeling when you know you have really good quality brake pads.
best wishes kevin
Last edited by bsword; 11-18-14 at 04:40 PM. Reason: additions
11-18-14, 06:50 PM
#67
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DD
11-18-14, 06:55 PM
#68
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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Increase over what? FWIW, I really liked the ride quality of those on the Masi when I used them, but the tread sure wore thin quickly. Now the Masi's clincher wheel have 23mm Veloflex and I think I like them as much or more.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
11-18-14, 06:57 PM
#69
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Toss on the Open Corsa SCs. Just a great tire for the $$$.
Now if we could just lose the 2" of ice on our streets I could give them a spin.
11-18-14, 08:47 PM
#70
Casually Deliberate
First thing I thought of was wheels/tires as to the feel of the ride. I have done more handlebar changes than any other thing though, so I think that handlebar changes necessitate a saddle change or at least an adjustment. For example, right now I have a Brooks B67 on my mountain bike drop bar conversion (1995 Trek 820), because it's the only saddle I have at the moment that is "free". I definitely feel & know that this is NOT the right saddle for me on this bike, and it will be changed once I acquire another black Brooks B17. However, if I had different handlebars on this bike I could likely use this saddle, so again....boils down to handlebars. Interesting topic. Interested to see what others say.
11-18-14, 08:57 PM
#71
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
For me, changing handlebars on a bike changes the bike's character more than anything, because it affects rider position so dramatically. My Super Course came to me with drop handlebars. I've had all-rounder (slightly bent upright) bars, forward bending bars, north road bars on it. For a while, I flipped the north roads upside down, but I didn't like that. Currently, it has all-rounders with bar ends added.
I can't find a picture of the bike with the drop bars.
It currently has these all-rounders.
I can't find a picture of the bike with the drop bars.
It currently has these all-rounders.
11-18-14, 09:26 PM
#72
Large Member
Of course changing the bars for another style has a massive impact: that's geometry for you.
But without changing geometry, replacing your OEM wheels with a lightweight tubular wheelset will give the most noticeable difference, then maybe tires and chain. Brakes that work in all conditions help too: even just pad material.
IMHO, the crank is fairly insensitive unless you change ratios. It's hard to find classic cranks in a compact size, though... and who ever though a 52-49 combo was useful obviously does not live in the mountains.
Saddle? who sits down to ride hills?
But without changing geometry, replacing your OEM wheels with a lightweight tubular wheelset will give the most noticeable difference, then maybe tires and chain. Brakes that work in all conditions help too: even just pad material.
IMHO, the crank is fairly insensitive unless you change ratios. It's hard to find classic cranks in a compact size, though... and who ever though a 52-49 combo was useful obviously does not live in the mountains.
Saddle? who sits down to ride hills?
11-19-14, 12:33 AM
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DD
11-19-14, 04:06 AM
#75
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I would have to agree with Tom. Bars or saddle make the biggest difference especially in comfort. Usually that means riding or sitting. To each his own.