Best buys for classic, rigid Aluminium MTB frames?
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Best buys for classic, rigid Aluminium MTB frames?
Hey everybody, I've been kicking around the idea of getting an old rigid MTB and putting the big semi-slick 2.35 Happy Mediums on it, for cruising around the city on.
Basically I'm wondering, what are the most undervalued Alu MTB frames out there? I'm on a budget and have lots of time to wait around for a good deal.
I like Aluminum so I'm leaning towards a Cannondale, but I'm also a big fan of GT's wild paint jobs between 1992 and 1994. I would consider going steel for one of those.
Thanks!
Basically I'm wondering, what are the most undervalued Alu MTB frames out there? I'm on a budget and have lots of time to wait around for a good deal.
I like Aluminum so I'm leaning towards a Cannondale, but I'm also a big fan of GT's wild paint jobs between 1992 and 1994. I would consider going steel for one of those.
Thanks!
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That's a big tire for an old frame, BITD most were designed around 1.9 or 2.1, U.S. designed frames esp from CA had and until recently major issues with large tires/mud clearance, I have a frame from 2011 which won't take anything over 2.25.
From the mid-90's as long as you are aware of the possible issues with clearance, GT Zaskar, would avoid pre 1993 as 1992's had u-brakes, Cannondale BoTE are nice. Would be asking about specific tire clearance on Retrobike, as you get a lot of owners there. Plenty of other bike from that era, but not many Alu frames stand out, Steel Diamond Back Axis, GT Karakoram/Physco, again with clearance issues, I have a mid-90' Diamond Back Ascent, and that would struggle with anything over 2.2 at the back.
From the mid-90's as long as you are aware of the possible issues with clearance, GT Zaskar, would avoid pre 1993 as 1992's had u-brakes, Cannondale BoTE are nice. Would be asking about specific tire clearance on Retrobike, as you get a lot of owners there. Plenty of other bike from that era, but not many Alu frames stand out, Steel Diamond Back Axis, GT Karakoram/Physco, again with clearance issues, I have a mid-90' Diamond Back Ascent, and that would struggle with anything over 2.2 at the back.
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Thanks Jim. I appreciate the insight! I will definitely avoid the U-brake GTs.
I may instead go with a 2.3+ front and a 2.0 rear..... hmm
I may instead go with a 2.3+ front and a 2.0 rear..... hmm
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Looks like U-brake GTs can handle up to 2.1 in the rear, but someone knows of a person running 2.3
Front should handle 2.3 without issue.
I might go GT and cross my fingers that 2.3 Happy Mediums will fit
GT Karakoram tyre options | Retrobike
Front should handle 2.3 without issue.
I might go GT and cross my fingers that 2.3 Happy Mediums will fit
GT Karakoram tyre options | Retrobike
#5
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The M2 Stumpjumpers have a lot of fans. I just bought one at T-Town for my wife, it is a small (16.5"), I put a 2.3 on the rear with plenty of clearance.
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In 1994 I bought a new Cannondale M700.
I still have it, and am still happy with it.
However, this is the complete list of all the original parts it still has:
- Frame
- Fork
- Handlebar
Photo was taken in the summer on Mt Evans.
I still have it, and am still happy with it.
However, this is the complete list of all the original parts it still has:
- Frame
- Fork
- Handlebar
Photo was taken in the summer on Mt Evans.
#7
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Geez fat tires on a MTB for asphalt cruising? I thought most C+V riders wanted to put 1.5 slicks on their City MTBs for speed and comfort?
Not all aluminum here, but Park Pre, Raleigh M-50, Trek 850 and up, Gary Fisher, Miyata, Schwinn PDG 40 and up. I'm not sure how big a tire the frame will handle, but they are all great frames. Trek aluminum frames would have four digit model numbers, the 3 digit numbers are steel.
On vintage aluminum framed MTBs, check the welds carefully for fractures. i bouht a Cannondale that I ended up binning.
Not all aluminum here, but Park Pre, Raleigh M-50, Trek 850 and up, Gary Fisher, Miyata, Schwinn PDG 40 and up. I'm not sure how big a tire the frame will handle, but they are all great frames. Trek aluminum frames would have four digit model numbers, the 3 digit numbers are steel.
On vintage aluminum framed MTBs, check the welds carefully for fractures. i bouht a Cannondale that I ended up binning.
Last edited by oddjob2; 11-21-14 at 07:33 AM.
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Raleigh Technium---aluminum main tubes with steel fork and stays for clearance. Treks with four-digit model numbers below 5000. Various aluminum Schwinns.
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The u-brakes are fine (more than fine actually) for asphalt riding; they weren't much good for going offroad though because they got mucked up with mud and the like. There are a lot of really fine vintage mtbs out there; I'm not sure I'd limit myself to an AL one. Most were steel back in the day and so there will be a larger inventory if you look for steel as well as AL frames. Just sayin.
I have two vintage mtbs (one with a u-brake and one without) and really, really, really like them: an '89 stumpjumper comp and a '91 stumpjumper team.
I have two vintage mtbs (one with a u-brake and one without) and really, really, really like them: an '89 stumpjumper comp and a '91 stumpjumper team.
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Thanks for the tips guys. I will be on the hunt.
M2 Stumpjumpers look pretty cool. Definitely for consideration.
I have a '94 Cannondale M300 I'm fixing up for the wife and measured it last night. Looks like it has just enough room to handle a 2.3 in the back
M2 Stumpjumpers look pretty cool. Definitely for consideration.
I have a '94 Cannondale M300 I'm fixing up for the wife and measured it last night. Looks like it has just enough room to handle a 2.3 in the back
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I have CST Cheyenne 2.4's on a 1988 Cannondale SM1000/Red Shred....they fit fine
#13
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This Trek 8000 that I had briefly seemed pretty nice. Way too big for me but it rode nice anyway and weighed in the low 20's set up as a single speed with Nashbar slicks.
fwiw I had Schwalbe Big Bens on my bike with a u-brake (c. 1987 Bianchi Grizzly). They are listed as 2.15 and they barely fit.
fwiw I had Schwalbe Big Bens on my bike with a u-brake (c. 1987 Bianchi Grizzly). They are listed as 2.15 and they barely fit.
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I haven't finished it off but this 88 C-dale Alpine Series was $80 on Kijiji... I'm upgrading a lot of it.
Before
After
Before
After
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Old rigid-frame mtb's in general are one of the best buys in cycling. I would not fixate on any particular model, just look for something that is both nice and inexpensive.
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My vote would go for a Cannondale M800.
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Cannondales are brilliant aluminium frames. You get those lovely hand-finished welds and some gorgeous paint schemes.
I've got a completely stock 1992 M700, it's a brilliant bike and I can't see myself selling it.
I've got a completely stock 1992 M700, it's a brilliant bike and I can't see myself selling it.
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