wrk101

OK, I know all the "secret" methods for removing stuck seat posts: freeze off, ammonia, kroil, acetone/ATF mix, brute force, air hammer, etc. But do enough stuck seat posts and stems, and sometimes, you just have to cut them out. I just finished cutting one out yesterday. What a PITA! Surely someone is better at this than me, probably several of you!

I started by cutting the post about 1/2 to 3/4 inch above the seat tube top lug.

I then drilled out the center of the post, as the hole in the center was too small to fit any cutting tool.

Even after cutting, the only thing that fit was a hacksaw blade (note to self, get a bigger diameter drill bit!)

I made four cuts in pairs, each one directly across from its pair "partner".

I tapped down on one of the cut wedges, hoping a section would drop out. Instead, the entire post moved down.

I grabbed what was left of the post above the frame with my bench vise, and out it came.

oddjob2

Has anyone ever tried any percussion tools?

i've got one of these and it can drive a 7' grounding rod into clay in 5 minutes. Just wondering if it could get a seat post moving.

https://t.harborfreight.com/1-916-in-...mer-69334.html

wrk101

This came on a Raleigh touring bike I picked up from the co-op, both the seat post and stem were stuck. The co-op really doesn't have the time or tools to deal with stuck parts. The stem came out pretty easily (Kroil). The seat post refused to cooperate.

Lascauxcaveman 

If I had had as much seatpost showing as you have in your photo, I'd have soaked it a with a couple days worth of Kroil or PB Blaster, then just taken a big hammer to pound down on it, on the theory that once it goes down half an inch, it ain't stuck anymore and can be wrestled out with a big-as pair of Vise Grips.

I've never had a seatpost that stuck before, so I can't say I've tested this theory. Except on a couple stems, where the technique absolutely did work.

wrk101

It repeatedly soaked in Kroil for over a week. I have plenty of other projects to work on, so I can be pretty patient when I have to.

Bikes and Jeeps

After the second to last stuck seat post I said "If it takes more then five minutes I sell it or scrap it."
The last one took six.

auchencrow

I think almost any method will work - depending on how stuck the post is.

You see, there's "stuck", and then there's "inexorably, galvanically-welded stuck", such that the post pulls steel nuggets from the seat tube.

Lascauxcaveman 

Yes. I guess really the point of my post is that I find it easier to apply a lot of down force (a whopping big hammer) than upforce (tugging on the seatpost), and then once it breaks free, the upforce needed to finish the job isn't so great any more.

Flog00

If you are cutting the seat post anyway, tap the post as deep as possible (fine thread) then thread a slide hammer bolt in and slam it out.

I do this after soaking and hammering the post down a bit.

Prowler 

BTDT except we cross drilled the exposed post and put a pin in (or bolt or whatever). Then hooked the slide hammer on and pounded it up and out. May have just been lucky but the slide hammer was just the tool needed.

Glennfordx4

The only seat post I attempted to cut out was on a newer Wally World Schwinn that I started to rehab before checking it ( learned my lesson that day ) & it had a post big enough that I could use my sawzall. My blade was longer than the post was deep so I didn't think it would be that hard, well I found out what a inexorably, galvanically-welded stuck seat post is. I cut it into four cross sections & it still wouldn't budge even after I cut through the frame in each section, it wouldn't come out as it really was welded to the steel. I had to give up as the frame was now shot and switch all the parts over to another. I have two more frames that I can't ruin with stuck post that I have put off as I would really like to save the post also.

Glenn

wrk101

Regardless of method I use, my first goal is not to pull or tug the post out, instead, I want to get it turning. All but one, once I got it turning, it came out. Turn first, then later tug or pull.

Hole in the center of the seat post, even after drilling (need a bigger drill bit) is on the small side. If it were larger, I could attempt to use a sawsall, much easier than a hand hacksaw, but more likely to cut seat tube along with the seat post.

Glennfordx4

I have a few different cutting tools none that would be any easier, a hand hacksaw like you are using now, a hand held saw that a sawzall blade fits in, I like this better then the hand held Hacksaw as you can apply more pressure as you cut. I have this very old Craftsman tool that takes a hacksaw blade & hooks to a drill turning it into a sawzall but it is a bit cumbersome to use.

I am going to try & use either OA or lye to remove the next post.

Glenn

r0ckh0und 

My success rate has been low thus far. I have a Lotus Eclair that I work on when I'm feeling like I need a good challenge. I got the stem by drilling with a larger bit each time......low speed and keep the bit cool. The seatpost has been less cooperative. Using a variable speed sawzall on low speed I have cut in several places with care so as not to damage the seat tube and i still haven't gotten it out. It has been shelved since last winter.

uncle uncle

Has anyone ever cut halfway thru the thickness of the seatpost four ways, thus creating four pie section parts. Drill sideways thru the seatpost, just above the frame, making a hole big enough to slip a good sized diameter bolt thru. Do the same, for another bolt hole, 90 degrees from the other, and just higher (so you can put the two bolts thru at the same time, without them running into each other). Tighten the bolts, just to the point of deformation of the seatposts, it should happen in the cut areas. Now put in your magic potion... this way, you have a force working against the galvanic weld. Just a thought.

acoffin 

I have heard of other using this "larger drill bit each time" method. Don't you still end up with pieces stuck to the side after using the largest bit you can without damaging the tube? Or do those pieces just fall out when you get that far? I have a stuck stem that I have been working on periodically for over a year. I fear if I drill it out I will still have pieces of the stem bonded inside with no way to extract them.

r0ckh0und 

Once it was thin enough I was able to peel it out. The seat post doesn't seem to be separating from the tube like the stem did.

plodderslusk

Last one I got out: Cut it down, sawed three "furrouws", hit it down an inch, drilled a hole and here is my newfound trick: Drilled a hole and used an old brake wire to pull it free. Secure the other end of the wire and pull on the frame.