rhm

The light housings on my Holdsworth are made from 3/4" copper caps for copper plumbing pipe, beaten to a bullet shape and soldered to more bits of copper plumbing pipe. The bracket holding them is also copper from plumbing pipe. The lights are LEDs.

to

frameteam2003

I like those, I've made similar ones using those chrome lug nut covers for 18 wheelers.

crank_addict

Had a little time tonight to mock setup the 2:1 MA brake cable. Rather simple and like how its coming along. I'm pleased to have sufficient lever travel, even though these Mafac Comp stradle cable's are fixed. It'll be interesting to see how the modulation will feel.

Of course to keep it French, I used some spare Sedis roller chain link. Both outer and inner side plates are needed. I filed an old cable lock tab to fit behind the hanger. Initial slack adjustment is pulled up on that end and the nut is tightened. Rock solid.

The rear (not yet done) will be just as simple but completely different in the cable support. This '72 LeChampion doesn't have any cable stops or guides, but in a way allows me freedom in the routing. The neat thing is I'm eliminating almost all of the cable sheathing to the rear. Minimizes friction and should look a bit cleaner on the top tube. Everything used is off-the-shelf.

BTW: I'm in need of two of thin gauge brake cable inners having the ball end to fit these Mafac's. Additionally, only a single shorter piece 20 inch of the outer sheath, black. The modern thicker cable and outer sheaths will not fit these brakes. I'll post in the ISO thread but if anyone here has spare or practical used cable like this, please let me know.

Drillium Dude 

Somehow I was able to smoothly mate steel Record (r i f l e d, thick) BB cups to a second-generation nutted Campy TI spindle. My understanding is that the alloy cups that came with the TI set had different races, requiring smaller balls. If this is true, my combo shouldn't work correctly.

I know for sure the bearings/races in Campy's TI spindled pedals are smaller/different - I've had both types apart and the differences in bearing size are quite obvious.

DD

dddd

[QUOTE=elcraft;17363724]Actually, it's a Cheltenham-Pedersen, made in Cheltenham England around 1980. Production lasted about five years.

As a race bike, I consider it period-correct in that it was modified for racing, but was not a race bike until then.
Thus a very rare, original Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, circa 1996 and still raced.

crank_addict

^Cool. Just a hunch, but thinking the balls you installed are larger? I've used complete different size balls in headsets. As long as the cup and race don't interfere if too small of balls are used. A sphere is a sphere.

CliffordK

I've posted this elsewhere (at least some of the photos).... Hopefully I won't get shot for cross-posting.




Steyr Clubman / Mongoose Massif Frankenbike.

I have a few "issues" left to resolve. I have a "direct mount" front derailleur, but need to fabricate a mount for it as the bottom bracket is too wide.

As there was an earlier discussion about brakes, I thought this would be relevant.

I found some standard aero brake levers which I went ahead and installed. The problem is that they had less pull than the previous non-aero brake levers. I left a centerpull brake caliper on the front, and the front cable stop gives the system a little extra flex. This means that the braking isn't as positive as I'd like it. Doubling the pull would sink me. I have picked up a set of Problem Solver Travel Agents to help with the cable pull issue, but haven't installed them yet.

Likewise, in the rear, the stock aero levers just don't quite cut it.

Anyway, I'll either install the travel agents, or hunt down some linear pull brake levers.

sailorbenjamin

I once put an Accord header in my wife's Honda Odyssey. My mechanic called me a savage but he wasn't the think outside the box type.

sailorbenjamin

I need to make some more things. You guys are probably getting tired of these pics.
I didn't make this but it's handy;

I use it to run this, which I did make myself with the 34 cog off an old worn out freewheel;

Which all go on this bike. It's got 26" fenders stretched over 27" wheels and I rearranged the innards of that old English headlight to run off rechargeable double A batteries. The switch also turns on the taillight now, though I managed to break the handle off of it. Haven't decided what to use in it's place.

It's all taken apart right now. I think I'm gonna try to get these tires under those fenders;

noglider 

I once made a mail relay server out of a Sun Sparcstation 2. My boss gave me a budget of $0 and told me to build it by scrounging around for parts. I found a failed SCSI hard drive. I crafted a format.dat file that lied about the disk's geometry, which caused the system to skip the bad cylinders. The system ran for over two years with hardly a reboot, until I retired it.

autoteacher

Kickstand for a Raleigh Twenty made from 1/2" steel bar, split pins and a spring I found in my stuff pile.

crank_addict

Jim- Thanks for the advice. From my prior pics, I decided to revise the set-up. Revision 2 was going with two links, parallel but all connected (tiny loop). Problem was the two cables are stiff in the chain link assembly and rubbed together.

Revision 3 of Frankenbrake:
I'm liking it. Added another link, allowing an improved radius and neither straddle or main cable touch. Very little friction with just one finger easy leverage on the brakes! Grabs just as before but with really light feel at the lever. Almost like a power brake. Here's the rear -(I'm changing out the cable stop nut assemble to clean the look of it all, but anyhow I just wanted to see how it would work.)

Also depicted is the top tube, now without the original cable sheath clamps. Only one is used and as a sheath stop. Almost all of the cable routing on this bike are without cable outers.

randyjawa 

Nothing special but I really dislike the exposed down tube shifter braze-ons, that stick out like sore thumbs, on Single Speed converted bicycles. With that in mind, a simple plastic inner tube valve cap can add a touch of clean-up to the appearance...

RandolphCarter

I'd say "nice" but I'm having flashbacks about editing Sendmail config files. *Shudder*

I had a similar budget for a set of mailservers. Ended up using existing SCO unix servers and running MMDF over UUCP, using dial up modems.

noglider 

Send all eventually came out with a config macro language that generated .cf files. I think I used that. But now there's Postfix which is better in pretty much every way. And the config files are easy and sensible.

RandolphCarter

I haven't kept up - been many years since I had to wear the UNIX sysadmin hat. I've gone on to other things.

Lotus Notes programming being the mainstay.

Wulf

I had a Lambert that I bought in 72 and by 74 it required repainting. (the damned stuff just flaked off in sheets). The forged dropouts did not have a derailler hanger so I cut the claw on my V-GT and brazed it onto the bottom of the dropout. This was my first brazing attempt too. It lasted until I got rid of the frame in 79.

dweenk

Wow, Lotus Notes. I had forgotten about that - it takes me back about 13 years. I liked it a lot, but the Microsoft juggernaut relegated that and other Lotus products to the dustbin.

Roll-Monroe-Co

Level that rack.

CliffordK

I didn't realize it was so tilted until I got it welded in place and stood back to look at it. Since the Steyr was a tall bike, I did allow the top tube to angle down slightly too (which might make it look bent in the middle).

I've got to recheck the alignment, and may look at the rack at the same time. Or, perhaps on the second Beta version.

At this point, the rack angle doesn't hurt anything, but perhaps it could be problematic if I add panniers.

Roll-Monroe-Co

I was just kidding. It's a bit of a standard gibe if someone's bolt-on rack isn't level. Obviously, leveling yours would be a bit more involved! That's a far more involved creation than I've ever made. Kudos to you.

CliffordK

Yeah.
The rack on my Colnago tilts the other way.

Bolted into the triangles of the Campy-style dropouts, and then attached to P-connectors at the seat stays, there just doesn't seem to be a lot of adjustment. It has been like that for eons. Perhaps I'll try some adjustments to that one first.

JohnDThompson 

m4, FTW!

Just converted to postfix recently; still learning.

Pompiere

I had a Mirrycle mirror that was made to mount over the brake cable on non-aero brake levers, but I didn't have the hollow bolt to mount it. However, I did have a threaded hole from where the "turkey/suicide/safety levers" were removed, so I just put a bolt with some washers through the mirror arm and screwed it tight. I also used a rubber O ring to snug it up but still allow for adjustment. The threads are the same as a cantilever pivot bolt.

Chombi

The Swiss threaded BB on my Peugeot PSV has an adjustable cup and spindle from a French threaded BB from Avocet and the fixed cup is still the original that came with the bike (No-brand. A cheap model Stronglight BB, I presume). So it certainly qualifies as a "Frankencomponent". I half replaced the BB when it started to feel rough even back way back when the bike was almost new in 86.
I already have NOS Swiss threaded replacement cups I bought for Mike Fraysee at eBay.....but I'm so lazy to remove the ones on the bike to replace them, so the NOS cups stay as spares in my stash box.