Schwinn Super Sport seat post size?
#1
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Schwinn Super Sport seat post size?
Good morning, bikers. I just bought a 1971 Schwinn Super Sport for my son, and this will be his first road bike (what a clever way to feed my vintage habit). I’m planning to put the original steel Schwinn parts into storage, and replace them with alloy parts. The seat post appears to be steel, so I want to get an alloy post. Would anyone know what the diameter would be? (the bike hasn't arrived yet) Also, does anyone have any experience with the BMX US-to-European bottom bracket converters? Thanks.
#2
Decrepit Member
Schwinn part number 58 806. Seat Post 9" long, 1 1/16" O.D. chrome.
1/16" = 1.587 mm
25.4 mm + 1.587 mm = 26.987 mm
So, you could try 27.0 mm, and if that's too big, go with 26.9 mm.
Nothing's simple.
1/16" = 1.587 mm
25.4 mm + 1.587 mm = 26.987 mm
So, you could try 27.0 mm, and if that's too big, go with 26.9 mm.
Nothing's simple.
Last edited by Scooper; 02-08-09 at 12:17 PM. Reason: converted inches to mm
#3
Decrepit Member
As far as the one-piece Ashtabula crank conversion is concerned, Pastor Bob did that conversion with his Super Sport, "Sporty"...
He's probably preaching his sermon about now, but will likely chime in when he sees this.
He's probably preaching his sermon about now, but will likely chime in when he sees this.
Last edited by Scooper; 02-08-09 at 12:26 PM. Reason: Added link to Sporty thread
#4
Senior Member
I own a fillet brazed Schwinn Superior, which is the same as the SS except the it has a threaded bb, forged dropouts with integral derailleur hanger.
The correct seat post for this bike 26.8mm I know because I bought a vintage Campy seat post in that size and it fits properly. Admittedly, this is no longer an easy size to find. My advice is to try eBay, that's where I bought my Campy seat post -- NOS from a seller in Italy.
The correct seat post for this bike 26.8mm I know because I bought a vintage Campy seat post in that size and it fits properly. Admittedly, this is no longer an easy size to find. My advice is to try eBay, that's where I bought my Campy seat post -- NOS from a seller in Italy.
#5
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I own a fillet brazed Schwinn Superior, which is the same as the SS except the it has a threaded bb, forged dropouts with integral derailleur hanger.
The correct seat post for this bike 26.8mm I know because I bought a vintage Campy seat post in that size and it fits properly. Admittedly, this is no longer an easy size to find. My advice is to try eBay, that's where I bought my Campy seat post -- NOS from a seller in Italy.
The correct seat post for this bike 26.8mm I know because I bought a vintage Campy seat post in that size and it fits properly. Admittedly, this is no longer an easy size to find. My advice is to try eBay, that's where I bought my Campy seat post -- NOS from a seller in Italy.
#6
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As far as the one-piece Ashtabula crank conversion is concerned, Pastor Bob did that conversion with his Super Sport, "Sporty"...
He's probably preaching his sermon about now, but will likely chime in when he sees this.
He's probably preaching his sermon about now, but will likely chime in when he sees this.
The crank conversion begins with an adapter made by FMF or Truvativ, which is bolted into the over sized BB shell. Then it is hit and miss finding the correct length cartridge BB (I've never found a traditional BB which works in the adapter) to fit your crankset to the Super Sport frame. BB width is very dependent on the crankset, the the way the stays spread from the BB shell, and whether you plan to use a double or triple. Sporty has a 119mm Phil BB and runs a triple.
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+1 on 26.8mm. That's what my '71 Super Sport takes.
Neal
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#8
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Thanks for the info, guys, I'll start the search for a 26.8. I just bought a BMX BB adapter from Asylum, and once I actually get the bike I'll start looking around for other parts. The bike will be for general use, so I'll probably get a double crank. I imagine I'll need to switch pedals also. Actually, I plan to switch out the entire drivetrain, to 70's era Suntour and SR. By the way, how much does an all-alloy Super Sport weigh? How do the frames themselves compare with lugeed chrome-moly frames? I got the bike because I think the fillet-brazed chrome-moly frames are pretty cool, but they deserve some lighter parts.
#9
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Thanks for the info, guys, I'll start the search for a 26.8. I just bought a BMX BB adapter from Asylum, and once I actually get the bike I'll start looking around for other parts. The bike will be for general use, so I'll probably get a double crank. I imagine I'll need to switch pedals also. Actually, I plan to switch out the entire drivetrain, to 70's era Suntour and SR. By the way, how much does an all-alloy Super Sport weigh? How do the frames themselves compare with lugeed chrome-moly frames? I got the bike because I think the fillet-brazed chrome-moly frames are pretty cool, but they deserve some lighter parts.
Pastor Bob thinks Sporty weighs 27-28 pounds with the alloy components including the triple chainring. Pastor Bob also removed the kickstand, which is surprisingly heavy.
You're right; they're pretty cool.
Last edited by Scooper; 02-09-09 at 05:55 PM.
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My Super Sports w/ 27" alloy wheels, set up as a 5-speed, Truvativ adapter and 3-piece crankset, no kickstand, aluminum alloy seatpost, stem, and bars, and steel fenders weighs about 28 lbs.
Neal
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My newly acquired '73 SS, frame and fork only, weighs about 10 lbs.
I stripped it down and used a weight watchers food scale:
Kickstand 13 3/8 lbs. (380g)
Handlebars 12 1/4 lbs. (347g)
Stem & small bolt 7 3/4 lbs. (220g)
Cammed stem bolt 3 lbs. (85g)
Two brakes 7 5/8 lbs. (216g)
Seat post 5 5/8 lbs. (160g)
Seat post clamp 2 5/8 lbs. (74g)
Original crank (heavier than heck!)
I stripped it down and used a weight watchers food scale:
Kickstand 13 3/8 lbs. (380g)
Handlebars 12 1/4 lbs. (347g)
Stem & small bolt 7 3/4 lbs. (220g)
Cammed stem bolt 3 lbs. (85g)
Two brakes 7 5/8 lbs. (216g)
Seat post 5 5/8 lbs. (160g)
Seat post clamp 2 5/8 lbs. (74g)
Original crank (heavier than heck!)
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25 lbs (excluding the tool bag), with the leather seat. Descends like it's on a luge run.
I like the fact that the frame is almost impossible to flex when climbing, grinding, etc. I've thought of making a cross bike out of one of these due to the geometry and great ride.
With the aluminum fork, the frame fork/headset was a bit under 9 lbs. The rest of the setup is an additional 16 lbs. With really light weight components, I could see getting the bike down to 23 lbs, but that might not mesh too well with the old school looks...
#14
Death fork? Naaaah!!
26.8 Is what my current projects takes.
As soon as the graphics arrive from JR will I have something to show you folks!
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As soon as the graphics arrive from JR will I have something to show you folks!
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You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
#15
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Resurrecting a zombie with new and, because we're talking old Schwinns here, conflicting information for future seat post researchers.
I just replaced the post on my '72 Super Sport. The 26.8 I bought based on this thread was too big. I exchanged it for a 26.4, and that worked out.
So either my old SS has .4mm of ancient grime inside the seat tube which throws these numbers off, or something changed for 1972.
Ahhhh, Schwinn. Nothing's ever easy, is it?
I just replaced the post on my '72 Super Sport. The 26.8 I bought based on this thread was too big. I exchanged it for a 26.4, and that worked out.
So either my old SS has .4mm of ancient grime inside the seat tube which throws these numbers off, or something changed for 1972.
Ahhhh, Schwinn. Nothing's ever easy, is it?
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
#16
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Resurrecting a zombie with new and, because we're talking old Schwinns here, conflicting information for future seat post researchers.
I just replaced the post on my '72 Super Sport. The 26.8 I bought based on this thread was too big. I exchanged it for a 26.4, and that worked out.
So either my old SS has .4mm of ancient grime inside the seat tube which throws these numbers off, or something changed for 1972.
Ahhhh, Schwinn. Nothing's ever easy, is it?
I just replaced the post on my '72 Super Sport. The 26.8 I bought based on this thread was too big. I exchanged it for a 26.4, and that worked out.
So either my old SS has .4mm of ancient grime inside the seat tube which throws these numbers off, or something changed for 1972.
Ahhhh, Schwinn. Nothing's ever easy, is it?
What was the size of the existing post? Check out the gap on the backside of the seat tube at the clamp area. I find a lot of distorted seat tube tops where PO used too small of a post and clamped the crap out of it to "fit". I had a bike recently with a 25.4mm post where the bike should have had a 26.8mm. Needless to say, that took a while to straighten out.
I have also had bikes where PO forced in too large a seat post and POUNDED it in to fit. What a disaster.
#17
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The existing post was too small, but unmarked. At the bike co-op, when I took back the 26.8 along with the one I'd pulled, we figured that one to be on the small side of 26.0, and yes, the gap was certainly closed up a bit to accommodate the smaller tube. I expanded it to normal before trying to get the 26.8 in, but no dice... that would have required the "pounding in" described above, and while I do take some liberties with the old Schwinns, that would clearly be over the line.
Thing is, even the 26.4 was a tight fit. Took a bit of effort to get it in, rather than the smooth slide I normally expect. I wonder if 26.4 is the "just will fit" size, while 26.2 is the correct one? Either way, the 26.8 wasn't gonna happen.
Edit Re: 1980s: They didn't get their act together... the Japanese factories did!
Thing is, even the 26.4 was a tight fit. Took a bit of effort to get it in, rather than the smooth slide I normally expect. I wonder if 26.4 is the "just will fit" size, while 26.2 is the correct one? Either way, the 26.8 wasn't gonna happen.
Edit Re: 1980s: They didn't get their act together... the Japanese factories did!
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
Last edited by Fahrenheit531; 12-28-14 at 12:07 PM.
#18
Senior Member
Just to clarify this the stock seat post on the fillet-brazed '60s and '70s Schwinns (Superior, Sports Tourer and Super Sport) is 26.8mm nominal, however in actual use there are slight variations. I just measured no less than 7 original posts using digital calipers and they ranged from 26.75 to 26.95mm in diameter, with most being around 26.85. I test fit several original posts into a couple of bare Super Sport frames and they fit perfectly. I also test fit an XLC brand alloy 26.8mm post (which actually measured 26.75mm) and it fit slightly more loosely in the frame than the stock posts.
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
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As I am about to restore a Super Sport, this thread leads me to dread! Oh gosh...what am I jumping on**********
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Did that. Described it in #17 . Not 26.8, I assure you.
all super sports frames from mid '71 on are identical, so there should be zero variations. i also believe the 60s super sports use the exact same tubing, so the seatpost sizing should be identical there too. every thread i have ever seen suggests a 26.8 works for them.
its not really a big deal. there is some funkiness like the headset being BMX spec, needing to use a smaller diameter stem, and the necessity of finding a clamp on cable guide if youre gonna use a newer front derailleur. luckily all this stuff is available on ebay.
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Huh. Mebbe I'll get a 26.8 and rubber mallet that sucker in there. Straighten things out.
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
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Did that. Described it in #17 . Not 26.8, I assure you.