non-fixie 

Yesterday I picked up this:



The Campagnolo parts on it were well worth the price, but as the frame is my size and I don't have a cyclocross bike yet, I'd like to save that as well. Problem is, a previous owner has done some DIY work on it. Apparently he preferred this to the bar end shifters for which the frame came prepared:



I think this needs to go. Any suggestions as to how to best approach the removal? TIA.

miamijim

You can either grind them off and smooth finish with a file and torch them off with MAAP gas (fancy propane) and finish with a file.

Michael Angelo 

Heat them off.

non-fixie 

Thanks for your replies, guys. Won't heating them off compromise the down tube? I've no experience with that, but I'd hate to end up with a hole.

Here's another pic. Looks like they were welded on, not brazed.

Chrome Molly

Heating to a temperature to remove the current brazing should not harm the tubing. It's probably less risky than grinding.

juvela

hello non-fixie,

was the seller able to tell you the make of the machine?

juvela "iirc non-fixie posted just yesterday that he had run out of space"

FBinNY 

Step one, determine whether it's welded or brazed, by filing and seeing if you have brass/bronze or steel.

If steel ie. welded, grinding/filing is you're only option. If brazed, then you can melt the bronze and remove. The heat required to remove a brazed part is about the same as was used to put it there in the first place and won't further compromise the tube. Also keep in mind that D/T bosses have been brazed on for half a century and if it were an issue wh'd surely have seen some broken tubes by now.

If you decide to use heat to de-braze, be careful because the steel is plastic at the temp required and it's very easy to tear the tube wall away.

If it were mine, I'd hack saw most of it off, then file to the contour of the tube, being careful not to file into the tube, then cover with some cosmetic trim.

non-fixie 

The seller thought it looked Italian, but I'm pretty sure it's Belgian. I found a frame on LFGSS that looks like its twin: Belgian Cyclocross frame.


There is a reason this picture was taken in the hallway, instead of the garage ...

non-fixie 

Thanks. I checked. Definitely steel, so hacksaw and file it will be.

CroMo Mike 

What a pity the prior owner didn't know about clamp-on downtube levers.

juvela

you know non-fixie i am sure there must be someone in NL offering a twelve-step programme in recovery from "marktplaatz addicition syndrome."

daf1009

I would look at it this way...as you said in the original post, the components are well worth what you paid. Do your best to get that mess off...but...if you do happen to mess up the tube...you have some learning...and the components took care of you...now you can look for another frame! Here's to feeding your addiction!

non-fixie 

Job done. I ended up just using a couple of files, to make sure I wouldn't damage the tube. I think I got most of the added material off. What remains is a couple of small dings, that I can take care of when it's repainting time.

Thanks again for the advice and the encouragement.



But first there are some other jobs. Next one up: the seat post ...

mrv 

wow - I thought I did a hack-job when I added DT bosses to my $25 Nishiki: CLICK ME IF YOU DARE
Looking forward how your bike ends up!

non-fixie 

That actually looks very, very clean, compared to what this PO did. This was his (her?) setup:

bikemig 

This is a good looking frame and well worth salvaging. I like cross bikes a lot.

RobbieTunes

Send it to sloar.

fietsbob

Disposable, (27"?) single speed Cross Bike , if you can ever get stem and seat post out ,, when the frame breaks finish stripping it and sell for scrap.

non-fixie 

I might, if he didn't live on the other side of the globe. I like his work.

Salubrious

The seatpost looks like a loss. Douse the joint with Kroil and let it sit for a day. If it were me I would be tempted to drill a hole in the seatpost to gain some leverage, but the seat might be adequate for that if the Kroil is given time to do its work.

non-fixie 

There's no way any seat can be fastened to this post anymore. The one that was on it was very loose.

It's currently soaking in WD-40, which is the best I can do. For some reason PB Blaster and Kroil are not sold over here. Plan A is indeed to drill a hole, mount a bolt through and put it in a vise. If that doesn't work I guess the hacksaw will come into play.

bikemig 

This bike looks abused.

FBinNY 

There are issues with shipping oils and solvents overseas. It's very possible that the formulas don't meet EU environmental standards. Or the flammability incurs a hefty penalty in sea freight rates.

In any case, I'm sure there are comparable "penetrating oils" available there. If not, you can make your own with a blend of ATF and acetone.

Otherwise I prefer to cut them flush to the frame and use an adjustable reamer to remove them. There's a metalworking principle called differential cutting that pretty much ensures that the reamer will float to center cutting aluminum without cutting steel (it works better if the reamer is a bit dull).

zazenzach

is the seatpost steel or aluminum??? if its aluminum ive heard ammonia works really well. just tape all the cracks and crevices up and pour it in and let it sit for a few days. careful about disposal as im not sure about how toxic ammonia is.

if its steel you can try doing the same thing but instead use apple cider vinegar. id let it sit for 2 weeks since its weaker stuff.

another option is to use a small propane torch. heat up the seatpost real good and then put some ice cubes on it too cool it down quickly. then pound on it real hard with a hammer. if you do this after the previous steps remember to get all the flammable liquid off first.

zazenzach

ya know henry james sells braze ons for rediculously cheap, right? A for inventiveness though.